Welcome to ScapeCrunch

We are ScapeCrunch, the place where planted aquarium hobbyists come to build relationships and support each other. When you're tired of doom scrolling, you've found your home here.

Meditations on the Fundamental Nature of Dosing (was: Some Random Questions)

  • Thread starter Thread starter BenB
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None
I’m battling this myself lately, with months of poor maintenance and now getting back on track. I have a lot of slow growers in the background now, consisting of just crypts, with Blyxa patches on either side of the island. I get a good amount of GDA after a week or so, and I’m wondering if I should drop my total weekly front load dose, and add some little osmocote balls under the crypts to replenish my soil underneath.
 
You've made a couple really big posts since I had a chance to reply. So this is kind of tricky. Also, I'm totally brain dead. Has been a long week and my set-up has given me a bit of aquarium burn out. So cut me a bit of slack with my replies. :p

After about 4-5 months, the $700 worth of aquasoil began stop providing enough nutrients. Plants were still alive, but I was seeing lots of NO3 deficiency and PO4 deficiency too. I started weekly frontloading of my Macros after 50-70% water changes.

At the 6.5-ish month mark, my aquasoil seems to be severely depleted. If I'm not dosing heavily in the water column, my plants immediately stunt.
Yeah, Burr expresses the same frustrations HERE.
Still I think to have the amazing garden style tank and start with tissue culture, you need the aquasoils unless you can find a way to dose with ammonia or urea in a way that is easy. I know people do it, but a lot of efforts I've seen in the past have just made algae.
You might could actually be the person who could figure it out.
I'm hoping to have that kind of set-up, then survive the transition to happy tank but with depleted aquasoil, then I might try other things.

I definitely did not understand this for YEARS. I was in the camp of "Every 6-8 months I finally lose the algae battle, and I'm happy to start a new scape anyway". Once I started EI dosing in my tanks (even with all the expensive aquasoil) it changed my entire perspective.
I've known they depleted awhile, but I only have the 60p, so it's not as impactful on my wallet. Again, I don't care. I really want to try some of these tanks that people are doing these days. It's just set me back so much to have a tank that was going amazing turn into a dumpster fire.

Currently I dose both of my high-tech tanks every sunday after ~70% water changes. I dose the new 70% fresh RO water around 26-6-25 ppm NPK, with daily CSM+B micro dosing at 0.1ppm Fe every day. If I don't have a large fish load, I usually need to increase the NO3 dosing to 30ppm or more every week, or I will literally have none left in the tank by the end of the week due to plant consumption.
You have dosing pumps, but you front load your dosing. This surprises me. Is this just what you found works for you? I would think you'd use them to dose just a bit daily. Oh wait, hang on.... your other post gets into this. :D

Speaking of which, I finally supported. If anyone else wants to support the forum, go here:
https://www.scapecrunch.com/account/upgrades
I did back in January I believe it was.

The easiest way to do this is to split up front loading doses, particularly for KNO3. For example, If my goal is 26-6-35......
I could dose it all on Sunday and likely get some GDA on the glass by the end of the week. Or, I could do 13-3-17 on Sunday, and on Wednesday, for twice-weekly dosing.
Front loading and GDA aside, this is something I need to figure out some day. What I need to dose when the aquasoil depletes. No need to get into it now. The set-up I have is about to be history. It would be a great discussion for when I have to deal with it. Others might want to follow along.
I don't have fish. I'm thinking I'll have to dose just a bit more than most people. I mention this somewhere in my journal.

How long is an extended time? a few days, a few hours?
I was thinking like if it went to 0 on a dosing day, so it would only be a few hours.

Not too long ago in my experiment tank, I tried "precise daily dosing" via my Chihiros Auto Dosers as an attempt to eliminate GDA from my system entirely. The goal was to keep levels at essentially 1/7th of my weekly front-loading, to keep GDA off the glass........ Seemed like a good idea, especially since I was genuinely feeling bored with the success of EI dosing.

I decided: It might be possible to configure some kind of daily dose that provides all the elements our plants need (essentially PPS-Pro dosing concept), but to keep it non-limiting, you have to dose more than what the plants consume, which eventually requires a water change to balance it out... which is already 50% of what the EI method requires. In my mind, all roads lead back to Leibig's law and nonlimiting environments. It's a requirement to grow plants and keep algae at bay, so that should be my priority.
This is sort of what I was getting at above. GDA aside, I was thinking if you dosed in a non-limiting factor daily, it might be better for the plants than front loading. As someone without dosers, I'd prefer to dose intermittantly, but since you have them, I just assumed your plants would respond better to it. Again, GDA not considering.

I guess I'd rather have to scrape some mild GDA off my glass once a week for my whole lifetime, while having incredible plant health, growth, and appearance, than constantly fiddle with daily dosing after the experience I just had for the last month 😲
Yeah, right now I'd be happy with just a little GDA

I'd say whatever you do, keep good records/photos and make sure to share here on Scapecrunch. The discussion is so helpful for so many, I think!
I have the nerdiest aquarium log. I'm not sure how much it helps, but I do look back at it on occasion to try to figure out what was going right or wrong.
 
You tank sure looks good Rocco!

I was dosing about 3.5ppm NO3 per day (26ppm per week) and still got some GDA on the glass.
After some period, doesn't everybody get some algae (species) on the front glass? For me it's most some GDA as well, but nothing some steel iron microwool can't get rid of the glass once a week.

I decided: It might be possible to configure some kind of daily dose that provides all the elements our plants need (essentially PPS-Pro dosing concept), but to keep it non-limiting, you have to dose more than what the plants consume, which eventually requires a water change to balance it out...

If one strives for non limiting nutrients, there should be a baseline of non limiting nutrients. You might only dose what's being consumed, read: what plants growth is made up from. And those dry weight compositions are scattered around in the scientific community. To be sure it stays non limiting, one could use bio indicators and/or measure the water like TDS /conductivity and dose accordingly. (Not sure this is PPS-Pro, never read a good document about it.) There are pros and cons to this method, just like IE and the big water changes to reset, just different ones.

Cheers!
 
Ok, I've read through all of this and checked out the links and some other articles. I think I know what I need to do. I'm going to start dosing my tank with Brawndo, because Brawndo has what plants crave, electrolytes.

Seriously though this info has helped. I think I need to graduate to a more regimented dosing plan like EI.
 
Ok, I've read through all of this and checked out the links and some other articles. I think I know what I need to do. I'm going to start dosing my tank with Brawndo, because Brawndo has what plants crave, electrolytes.

Seriously though this info has helped. I think I need to graduate to a more regimented dosing plan like EI.
I had to Google Brawndo. Ugh

Back to the topic at hand though, about to start a new build myself. I need to come up with a fert mix soon.
 
Can you unpack this? 🤓 is this all tests, what are the reagents? Do they oxidize to a nonfunctional compound over time, what?

🤔
Actually, my Salifert PO4 powder reagent is almost out and has started to clump a little. It's been so humid here. I've wondered if it is OK, but it seems to be testing OK.

I want to buy reagent refills for my LaMotte kit, but I'm not sure if the testing system hasn't changed in the 25 years since I bought it. The NO3 works good though.
 
I have some questions reading after reading this thread. How does one measure or estimate the additional nutrients when adding root tabs? It isn't exactly measuring out dry salts.
You don't! It's the same for fish waste and even aquasoil in general. The only tools we have are to measure water column nutrients, which is always only part of the picture.

Learning to visually identify nutrient deficiencies, changes in your plants, and the types of algae and what deficiency they often represent (GSA for low PO4, Cyano for low NO3 and high PO4, GHA for low NO3/K, BBA for excess DOC and fluctuating CO2, etc).

Root tabs are useful but should be considered a "bonus" type of fertilization. Some root tabs do show their makeup on the packaging, but few really do that nor is it that useful. We don't really know if root tabs only stay in the substrate; there's a high chance they end up as much in the water column over time as the substrate.

The point is, remember, nutrients don't cause algae. Imbalances, deficiencies, and unhealthy plants cause algae. If root tabs keep your plants healthy, then they're a good addition even if we can't empirically know what nutrients they add!
 
Thanks! That was helpful indeed.

Part of my thinking is that by using root tabs I could reduce the amount of PO4 in the water column. Third day in a row that my PO4 is measuring at 1ppm.
You might be able to, but some root tabs don't even contain PO4! Double check their ingredients if you can.

Also, is 1ppm a lot for your setup, and do you want to reduce it? My weekly dosing is between 6-10ppm PO4 for my tanks. Just a reminder that "high" PO4 levels don't cause algae inherently ;)
 
You might be able to, but some root tabs don't even contain PO4! Double check their ingredients if you can.

Also, is 1ppm a lot for your setup, and do you want to reduce it? My weekly dosing is between 6-10ppm PO4 for my tanks. Just a reminder that "high" PO4 levels don't cause algae inherently ;)
It was the cyano outbreak that set me looking into it, but what concerned me further was reading this on how detrimental high PO4 can be for fish health (Perpetual Preservation System - Nutrient imbalance P).

I have lost all my pygmy corydoras who were wasting away.

Of course, correlation is not causation but PO4 was consistently 2ppm on my previous dosing regime (1ml APT E per day) and only dropped to 1ppm when I reduced my dosing to 1ml every 3 days.

I am coming to the conclusion that I am dosing too much for my plants to take in. This is making me consider moving to a more lean dosing regime in an attempt to find a balance.
 
Got it.
Just for reference, I have pygmy corys in my 39gal at 10ppm PO4 weekly without issue. It's more likely that they're an extremely non-hardy species that often has parasites and a crazy sensitivity to... basically every new tank. But I would almost guarantee that even if your PO4 was at 6 or 8 it wasn't the reason they died. They're just super sensitive :cry: and the cutest fish who have ever lived, too. I started treating them in quarantine before adding, and I always anticipate losing 30-40% of the original number I add. They are just so damn sensitive!
 
@Naturescapes_Rocco I know they are sensitive, but more sensitive than axelrodi boraras? I can't seem to wrap my head around how my rasboras are fine while every pygmy cory has died.

Seems to be some empiric evidence that pygmaeus are extra sensitive to flukes, at least anti-fluke medication can sometimes stop the die off

 
Back
Top