Welcome to ScapeCrunch

We are ScapeCrunch, the place where planted aquarium hobbyists come to build relationships and support each other. When you're tired of doom scrolling, you've found your home here.

Journal A growing collection | 54L

Joined
Jul 16, 2025
Messages
17
Reaction score
44
Location
EU
If anything, this tank is an utilitarian aquarium. This is not an aquascape, in the sense that I want to artistically impress on you a feeling. Its main utility is for me to grow plants and relax in front of it. Hope you also find reading this journal useful for you.

The idea behind this tank is to just keep it simple and get the chance to look at some plant species and techniques closer. Thus, just a few plant species at a time and when it starts to get boring just change the plants. There is the added advantage of trying to grow many plant species under the same or similar conditions. The substrate, just sand, helps with easy uprooting, cleaning and resetting while giving me the flexibility to change the water parameters fast. As it's supposed to be simple and dynamic I don't feel like bothering with any hardscape and I have more room for plants.

I will try to keep it budget friendly and find a balance that works for me. We can use high end and/or high intensity light, substrates and equipment. Nothing wrong with that, it may produce better results easier. There is also no need to make it hard mode in every aspect of growing plants. What does that actually mean? I will inject CO2 just like I will dose fertilizer to the tank. If dosing regularly is stresful, I will get an autodoser. But I will try and use some of my old equipment and relatively basic equipment to achieve my goals. In other words, plant growing should be accessible. If I can do it, you can do it! Just let it grow!

Tank
:
A standard Marina tank with 4mm float glass
54L - 60x30x30 cm
Light
Nicrew SlimLed Plants 58-75cm, 16W (x2)
Sustrate
JBL Sansibar River
Filter
Eheim 2213 - 3L volume - 440L/h rated flow
spraybar output
CO2
Chihiros CO2 External Diffuser
older equipment for the regulator and tank



Day 0: Added the sand and water and did an equipment check. Although a bit more expensive, the sand is very clean out of the pack so I just poured water with no clouding. CO2 injection off to give some time for the diffuser to soak. RODI water adjusted to 28 mg/L Ca, 10 mg/L Mg, 10 mg/L K with the respective sulfates.
DSC_7007.webp

Day 5: 20L water change, added some snails and planted Nymphoides flaccida, Rotala macrandra "Mini Type 4", Hemianthus callitrichoides "Cuba"

Day 9: added Myriophyllum pinnatum and took photo. Besides Nymphoides flaccida, all plants are from tissue culture.
DSC_7021.webp
 
Love the concept but dont be discouraged if you have some algae issues early on. Its tough to start a brand new tank with all tc because all the existing growth has to die while new converted growth comes in. Decaying plant matter is a recipe for disaster, especially in a new tank, and especially if there's not a good amount of submerged plants also growing

Id be interested in more specific details of what youre dosing right now, including co2. If this kicks off without a hitch that will be very useful information for people to have

If you do have issues, dont be discouraged. Its a fine line between adding enough ferts, light and co2 to get these plants growing without simultaneously causing algae., And thats not to mention the high probability of diatoms

Of course you may have a plan for all of the above. It doesnt sound like this is your first rodeo so Id be interested in hearing any ideas you have on it.

Also please know that I mean all this in a positive way and hope thats how everyone perceives it. I wish more people had the balls it takes to show start up projects like this! One way or the other the hobby always learns something!
 
Last edited:
If you do have issues, dont be discouraged. Its a fine line between adding enough ferts, light and co2 to get these plants growing without simultaneously causing algae., And thats not to mention the high probability of diatoms
Of course you may have a plan for all of the above. It doesnt sound like this is your first rodeo so Id be interested in hearing any ideas you have on it.

Thank you for your reply and pointers. It was read in a positive way :) Tissue culture gives a great number of individual plants, but you don't get a great deal of plant mass. On the other hand, compared with emersed plants you get less algae introduced to begin with. Some algae will come at some point. With this setup I will likely skip the diatom stage and go straight to green algae. That is not to say that my approach is very focused on not growing algae. For example I could lower the light levels and lower the light duration , have some floating plants and so on. I will react to algae when they come, see what fun simple organisms can bring to this aquarium. Till then my strategy is snails, cleaning, water changes.

I held off on details on dosing because, while interesting and useful, many people become focused on it instead of (maintaining) the tank. To sum up, I dose proactively, I adjust reacting to the plants. I'll still hold back on the reasons why I did it like this because most of what I do should not be taken as a recommendation and is mainly done because it is convenient. Furthermore, if it fails there is no use in putting wild theories out there. If it works, at least we have one possible explanation to discuss :)

I start with nutrients from the first day: 10 mg/L NO3, 0.2 mg/L PO4, 10 mg/L K, 12 mg/L Mg, 28 mg/L Ca, 0.07 mg/L Fe ...
At water change (20L- around 50% of actual water volume), I bring the added water to : 15 mg/L NO3, 0.5 mg/L PO4, 10 mg/L K, 10 mg/L Mg, 28 mg/L Ca.
Every other day for the first week, after which every day I add 1 pump (2mL) of Dennerle Liquid Plus, mainly for its micronutrients. Again, not a recommendation, I use it because I had it around and didn't want to or didn't have the time to make a mix. This adds ~1 mg/L NO3, ~0.1 mg/L PO4, ~0.3 mg/L K, ~0.1 mg/L Mg, ~0.02 mg/L Fe, ~0.01 mg/L Mg, ~0.001 mg/L B, ~0.002 mg/L Cu, ~0.001 mg/L Zn, ~0.001 mg/L Mo. The micronutrien dose is low in the long term. CO2 is non-stop injection dialed in so that the drop checker is a light green and the pH drop is stable and about 1.3

You're going to dose co2? What do you mean by that?
That's not quite what I said.
I will inject CO2 just like I will dose fertilizer to the tank.
Thank you for giving me the opportunity to clarify the confusion. In more words, I was saying that I will take an easy approach at growing plants. In my book actually adding nutrients is easier than hoping the substrate or fish waste covers enough. Most reasonable people would agree that plants need nitrogen from one source or another and that 1 mg/L NO3 isn't great for fast and healthy plant growth. At the same time some won't be paying attention to the CO2 requirement and have tanks where CO2 is severely limited despite C being somewhat 30 times more abundant in dry plant mass than nitrogen. That's probably a side effect of being trained early on to test for NO3, whereas CO2 does not have an easy test. So I will add try and provide a good source of all plant nutrients, including CO2.

Day 10: 20L water change
 
Hanna has an easy CO2 test now.
Thanks for the pointer. It seems to be titration based, similar to the JBL CO2 test, but l would guess at a more professional level. Basically you run into the same issues as with the KH-pH-CO2 chart. Likely works somewhat in situations where CO2 is almost all the source of acidity.

Day 13: cleaned the glass and did a water change

Plants are starting to grow well now. M. pinnatum was planted later and is taking a little longer.

R. macrandra "Mini Type 4"
Top
DSC_7027.webp
Bottom
DSC_7028.webp

The color isn't great, but that can wait till the plants are more established. Some of the 'old' leaves on some R. macrandra dropped, i think largely dependent on how they were positioned in the culture container. You can see though the stem is still good and there is new growth at the substrate level as well :) Lots of roots growing... and on the roots some biofilm, some green tinge so maybe some algae are starting to grow. Now I can think of additional algae eaters.
 
I start with nutrients from the first day: 10 mg/L NO3, 0.2 mg/L PO4, 10 mg/L K, 12 mg/L Mg, 28 mg/L Ca, 0.07 mg/L Fe ...
At water change (20L- around 50% of actual water volume), I bring the added water to : 15 mg/L NO3, 0.5 mg/L PO4, 10 mg/L K, 10 mg/L Mg, 28 mg/L Ca.

Thanks for giving the specifics. What is your reason to have PO4 that low? Genuinely interested and curious, thats all

Also I notice Mg is pretty high. I know some circles in Europe a common thought is to keep Mg = or > K. Are you targeting a certain ratio between those two and Ca?
 
Last edited:
Thanks for giving the specifics. What is your reason to have PO4 that low? Genuinely interested and curious, thats all
In my experience, plants deal with PO4 limitation the best (without showing major issues). Actual absolute 0 PO4 is a bad idea, but most plants will manage with some detectable PO4 in the water column (Notice I said manage, not be at their optimum growth rate). Why limit PO4 then? Rather have a known limitation and it gives me more flexibility to tune in the other nutrients (including CO2) and adjust reactively.

Also I notice Mg is pretty high. I know some circles in Europe a common thought is to keep Mg = or > K. Are you targeting a certain ratio between those two and Ca?
I do not subscribe to that theory for aquatic plants. This discussion can get long, but here are some points that are not opinion based. In terrestrial plants, water availability is different and puts different constraints on nutrient transport; not to mention the very high mineral concentrations in wet soil. In addition from a practical approach, every concentration I use will give a ratio. A ratio will give infinite concentrations. So I prefer reporting concentrations.
Let's say for now, I use 10 mg/L Mg because it is convenient. 1g/10L MgSO4.7H2O will get you about there. Similar for calcium from CaSO4.1/2H2O, 1g/10L will get you about 28 mg/L Ca.

Day 21: Another quick 20L water change. At day 21, the nitrite peak seems to have passed, but still detecting some. In the hopes things got established and since the Hemmianthus callitrichoides "Cuba" is getting a bit tall, I now increased the white channel from 40%. I also added a strainer to the filter intake to prevent small plants, snails and maybe shrimps to get in the filter. There are some snail eggs on the glass and filter, which is a good sign as there is enough biofilm to provide for the snails. Likely linked to the ammonia and nitrite there are some algae here and there but so far it's manageable.

 
Start / Day 9
1 Month Later

Tank is now one month old. :) Although the start was slow, the plants made good progress. You can see as they build more mass how much faster they fill in, especially if you compare with the day 21 photo. I did only minimal trimming / replanting of floating bits of Hemmianthus callitrichoides 'Cuba' . Now, at one month mark you can see the tank is in need of a trim already.

No nitrite detectable in the last days, but some sand grains have a green tint. 🐌There is a multitude of baby ramshorn and bladder snails, so hope they keep it under control. Time to also add some amano shrimps, maybe. As the snails are still small, over the last week I did not clean the glass to let them harden a little . Looking at my notes, I did a water change every 4-5 days this month.

Interesting that some stems of M. pinnatum grew so strong while others are still weak. Guess there is some variability in the clones. Now we select for the strong stems. The carpet is almost complete but it will take a trim and regrow to get it looking good. N. flaccida is a vibrant green plant, staying small for now. R. macrandra 'Mini Type 4' starts getting its color and getting more dense.

Next comes a trim for the stem plants.
 

Did a quick trim for the stems , now the Nymphoides flaccida is a little more visible.

Where to next? While I wait for the Hemianthus calitrichoides 'Cuba' to fill in, there is still some margin to push the light . I will have to see the new growth on the Rotala macrandra to see if that is enough light for it . After the light is fixed it will be a reliable constant and I can play a bit with CO2 and nutrients.

And as the aim of this tank is to just grow palnts and relax, I will leave an old TC part of the M. pinnatum stem in the tank so we can follow it together. Here it is at a month after planting
Not particularly beautiful as far as leaves go, but the stem is still strong and became well rooted in the pure sand.
 
Thank you SkaleyAquatics and JohnPilon. I'm learning a little bit everytime I interact with the tank.

I'll be true to my motto and let the full Hemmianthus carpet grow, but to be honest, the patchy work kind of reminds me of beach vegetation or a washed out hill/mountain slope where water running down made small channels

Got a snap of the Myriophyllum pinnatum without bubbles covering every leafy part.
 
I did not have time to post the update, but here is the photo before the trim and before leaving for two and a half weeks.

I then trimmed the plants, added a bit of extra fertilizer and left.
Left the tank untouched for 17 days while I was away and here is the result::

A bit of biofilm and what some will call GDA on the glass, NPK all tested 0 , some Fe left over. You can really see the effects in the dark color of the Hemianthus callitrichoides 'Cuba' and the small leaves of the new growth.

Nymphoides flaccida kept growing at the surface and it's now starting to form plantlets from its mature leaves. I will have to take a photo of it later.

For now did a quick clean, trim, water change and added fertilizer.
 

Top 10 Trending Threads

Back
Top