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Proper way to dark start AquaSoil?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Art
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@gnatster — I thought you were using APT Start? I would think that should be a sufficiently large nutrient charge to fully saturate the substrate. When I used it in my AIO 20g, my test kit easily read ~8 ppm ammonia during the dark start, so the initial nutrient spike was larger than anything I’d previously experienced.

Things settled out after about four weeks, although I did perform two water changes during the dark start to bring ammonia down closer to ~4 ppm.

I will say that once the plants acclimated and the brown diatoms/algae began to fade, everything really started to take off. The substrate nutrient levels felt excellent, which I’d attribute—at least in part—to root development. Some of the root growth was very impressive, especially considering the plants had only been established for a few weeks before I ultimately broke the tank down. I didn't use Start again as I wanted the tank running asap and had a mature filter.

Have your experiences been the same to my anecdotal observation with using Start in a smaller tank?
 
@gnatster — I thought you were using APT Start?
I am using APT Start. As a belt-and-suspenders advocate, the substrate has been APT Start with a layer of UNS ControBase, then ControSoil. Supplemented with PO4 during the dark start. Stir in a lot of patience to complete.

Disclaimer: This method has worked for me. YMMV.
 
View attachment 2026
I have a couple of bags of Amazonia on the way. It's been a while and want to take what I've learned from using it in the past and avoid some of the "issues" starting up with AquaSoil. Today, it seems that the dark start method meets this objective.

Here's my plan. Please give me your honest opinions if it's solid or off base.

I plan on starting the tank with the filtration and AquaSoil only. No plants or fish. I will inoculate with starter bacteria (just my personal preference) and keep the aquarium with no light (dark). It will not be completely dark as room daylight will be there. I considered blacking it out using cardboard but I don't think it's necessary.

I will monitor ammonia, nitrite to work through the cycle. I'm not very concerned about this. I don't plan on doing water changes. Just letting the ammonia leakage do its thing.

The real test is that I will be adding PO4 and testing it throughout the dark start period. My goal is to allow it to uptake as much PO4 as it wants so that it doesn't mess with my PO4 later when I have plants.

If all goes well, I will a) avoid the daily water changes when I ultimately put plants in and, b) avoid the PO4 sink effect that this soil seems to have.

What do you think? Am I making too much of the issues and overdoing the remedy? Or, will I save myself some headaches down the line?

Thanks,

Art
I mean if the whole idea of darkstart is to cultivate biofilm on the grain why not separate it into a bucket, plug in air pump and wait? You can further add carbonhydrate ( diluted starch) to promote a faster phase?
 
You can further add carbonhydrate ( diluted starch)

I've had good luck with vodka 😁😁

Would be concerned a starch would mold 🤔

 
I've had good luck with vodka 😁😁

Would be concerned a starch would mold 🤔

what can i say, i love drinking vodka so i will go with diluted starch ( vodka is kinda expensive here really) Besides, moulding wont be really a thing if it is truly diluted and proper oxygenated. In my place, people use rice water instead, so the diluted starch comes from that

but it works so
 
View attachment 2026
I have a couple of bags of Amazonia on the way. It's been a while and want to take what I've learned from using it in the past and avoid some of the "issues" starting up with AquaSoil. Today, it seems that the dark start method meets this objective.

Here's my plan. Please give me your honest opinions if it's solid or off base.

I plan on starting the tank with the filtration and AquaSoil only. No plants or fish. I will inoculate with starter bacteria (just my personal preference) and keep the aquarium with no light (dark). It will not be completely dark as room daylight will be there. I considered blacking it out using cardboard but I don't think it's necessary.

I will monitor ammonia, nitrite to work through the cycle. I'm not very concerned about this. I don't plan on doing water changes. Just letting the ammonia leakage do its thing.

The real test is that I will be adding PO4 and testing it throughout the dark start period. My goal is to allow it to uptake as much PO4 as it wants so that it doesn't mess with my PO4 later when I have plants.

If all goes well, I will a) avoid the daily water changes when I ultimately put plants in and, b) avoid the PO4 sink effect that this soil seems to have.

What do you think? Am I making too much of the issues and overdoing the remedy? Or, will I save myself some headaches down the line?

Thanks,

Art
I've only done dark starts - exactly as you've described except the po4 adding is new to me - must try that next time.
But yeah, as with you normal day light (meaning no black out but also no direct sunlight) and let it cycle.
Never had algae issues, diatoms etc etc..the only "downside" is the patience required..but if you're OK with that then I think it's an excellent way to start a tank.
 

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