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Journal Experiment Tank || 90x50x36cm, 39gal, Horizontal Reactor High-energy Aquascape Journal

Great post!

Over the years I have had tanks with both BDBS and aquasoil.

You can have a great tank with either.

In the end for me it was just easier long term with BDBS. I can control every single thing and I like that. No surprises, and no fighting aquasoil as it changes over time.

And of course it's MUCH easier on the wallet too!
 
Have you considered trying them together? AS base and capping with BDBS? Might be worth an experiment,
best of both worlds.
I've thought about it, but with the results I'm having with just pure BDBS , the knowledge that it's ONLY inert substrate is worth it more than the benefit of soil underneath a cap, IMO.
 
And no keeping cory cats, loaches or pet snails 😕 super sharp, it is literally sandblasting grit 💥
For some people that could be a deal breaker. So an alternative might be using Flourite. That was the big substrate years ago before we had aquasoils. It's expensive-ish, but it's a one-time expense. Like BDBS, you can reuse it if you reset your aquarium, etc.
 
And no keeping cory cats, loaches or pet snails 😕 super sharp, it is literally sandblasting grit 💥
I'm curious. Have you actually kept those species with BDBS ana had problems?

Or did you read about it?

I ask because there are loads of people who keep them with BDBS and have never had an issue.

Years ago I kept a group of Clown Loaches with it for years and they did great. And if killed snails that would be a huge benefit!! :D :D But in my experience snails do just fine with it as well.

Now could others have a different experience? Yes but I can only comment on what I have actually seen.
 
I'm curious. Have you actually kept those species with BDBS ana had problems?

Or did you read about it?

I ask because there are loads of people who keep them with BDBS and have never had an issue.

Years ago I kept a group of Clown Loaches with it for years and they did great. And if killed snails that would be a huge benefit!! :D :D But in my experience snails do just fine with it as well.

Now could others have a different experience? Yes but I can only comment on what I have actually seen.

I have no experience with keeping them with bdbs but recall somewhere along the way that this issue turned out to be a myth.
 
I have no experience with keeping them with bdbs but recall somewhere along the way that this issue turned out to be a myth.
Yeah Jeff it's one of the those that gets repeated a lot, mostly by people who have never used it. They read it somewhere and then repeat it.

I could point to dozens of tanks that use it with no issues at all. Does that prove anything? Not really but anecdotal evidence is some times all we have. Nobody setting up controlled scientific experiments for things like this.
 
I'm curious. Have you actually kept those species with BDBS ana had problems?

Or did you read about it?

I ask because there are loads of people who keep them with BDBS and have never had an issue.

Years ago I kept a group of Clown Loaches with it for years and they did great. And if killed snails that would be a huge benefit!! :D :D But in my experience snails do just fine with it as well.

Now could others have a different experience? Yes but I can only comment on what I have actually seen.
I agree with this. I'm actually CURRENTLY keeping cories in this tank, and their barbells are the exact same length as the ones in my aquasoil tank! I've read online that while it makes sense to be worried about it in theory, the reality is that even the regular sand they evolved alongside isn't much "smoother". Any sand is blasting sand when fired out of a nozzle, this one just happens to be a bit sharper but I'm not sure it's ever been proven to negatively affect lifestock. I just watched a video of someone who has kept Axolotls, which are soft-bellied and often EAT the sand with their food, for over 6 years without issue.
 
Years ago I kept a group of Clown Loaches with it for years and they did great

Where would we be without myths and legends 🤦🙄🤣

@Naturescapes_Rocco let us know how the corys do going forward. I don't know that I would call BDBS a "bit" sharper than sand, it's basically vitreous, more similar to glass than it is to sand.

I def. have scratched the holy bejesus out of my own fingers with it 😬 and had burrowing snails stressed to the point of death.. but I have not personally had damaged loaches or cory cats!

That's good to hear 💯💯 I personally would still not keep Kuhlis and other small scaleless loaches in this.
 
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I def. have scratched the holy bejesus out of my own fingers with it 😬 and had burrowing snails stressed to the point of death.. but I have not personally had damaged loaches or cory cats!
Based on comments I've seen in reef forums, people buy clown fish and a goldfish bowl, and take them both home without buying salt. So while BDBS might be OK with these fish, I'm sure plenty of people have bought them without knowing they have particular requirements.

So, we can keep Clown Loaches on the approved list. Rocco can let us know about Cories.
 
Warning: fertilizer ramblings. Skip if you don't care about numbers!

A few weeks of 30-9-39 and I'm hooked, maybe for life. 70% Water changes, with 20-6-26 initial recovery dose, then a 10-3-13 booster dose midweek has created the single most algae-free, fast growing, healthy tank I've maybe ever had. The pearling has reached "upside-down rain" levels daily. The BDBS remains clean and algae-free, too.

How I've been fertilizing:
1761091087078.webp
I prepare 4-5 weeks worth of GH remineralizer, initial doses, and booster doses in little 2oz cups.

I have been doing it this way because It's nicer to sit and spend 30-40 minutes making 5 weeks of doses in a single go, than to get the items out every weekend and measure/dose manually. It was also nice to "hold off" on making these doses if I wanted to change or experiment, but I'm ready to just make a Macros solution at this ratio (30-9-39) to make dosing easier. Remember, part of what matters when determining your fertilizer concentration (like 30-9-39) is the water change %. If you only perform 30% WC each week, 30-9-39 will quickly reach toxic/unwanted levels in your aquarium. Conversely, if you do 70% WC each week, you get a lot more leeway to experiment, but will have to dose as much as I do, or similar, to prevent your nutrients from bottoming-out. If you want to understand this or explore more, check out my Nutrient Accumulation Calculator!

Making a Macros Solution from scratch:

The first limiting obstacle is K2SO4, because it is the least soluble out of all 3 macros. If I add too much, it will never fully dissolve. So, I'll figure this one out first and go from there.

When you add enough KNO3 per week to get 30ppm NO3, you also inherently add 18.9ppm K. That's because it is KNO3. It contains both macros.
When you add enough KH2PO4 per week to get 9ppm PO4, you also inherently add 3.7ppm K (total 22.6ppm K from these two macros already).
I found these numbers through Rotala Butterfly.

That means I need to add enough K2SO4 to raise the final amount of K by 16.4ppm, to reach a total of 39ppm from all 3 macros per dose/week.

So, I need a solution with "reasonable dose sizes" that has K2SO4, that raises my tank's K by 16.4ppm. Since a mason jar will easily hold 600mL, let's use 600mL as the base for this solution (I love mason jars!):

For K2SO4:
1761091892568.webp
Ok, so using the calculator, I've determined that I'll need 47g K2SO4 in 600mL to have a solution that, when 60mL are added to my 34 gal aquarium, I raise K by 16.4ppm. Great!
Side note, what happens if you make a solution too concentrated with K2SO4? You'll get a warning:

1761091974996.webp
RotalaButterfly claims that the solubility of K at room temp is 120g/L (0.12g/mL), but that's the solubility at 77F... I don't know anyone who considers 77F room temp?! My room temp is much cooler, especially during the winter, and I find that K2SO$ will precipitate out (not fully dissolve) if I push it too close to this solubility limit in these cooler temps. Also, when making a macro solution with KNO3 and KH2PO4, which both add K, perhaps that affects solubility as well. Either way, I prefer to play it a bit safe near 80% solubility limit, instead of at 100%, so I can be sure all the K2SO4 will dissolve. And I tested it; K2SO4 does fully dissolve, even with the other macros present, at this concentration (0.08g/mL) at room temp or even cooler (67F).

Anyway, again, I now know I need to add 47g K2SO4 to my 600mL of water.

Now that I have K2SO4 out of the way, I don't have to worry much about the other two macros.
Both KNO3 and KH2PO4, at the levels we use them, are WAY more soluble than K2SO4 and they won't be a problem:

For KNO3:
1761092681352.webp

For KH2PO4:
1761092655847.webp

So, to make a macros solution where dosing 60mL into my 34 gallon aquarium raises the NPK by 30-9-39, Here's the "recipe":

In 600mL pure RO water, add:
  • 63g KNO3
  • 16.6g KH2PO4
  • 47g K2SO4
  • 0.25g Potassium Sorbate (anti-mold preservative)
  • 0.25g Ascorbic Acid (lowers pH, helps anti-mold preservative work)
Once fully dissolved, I can add 60mL of this solution to increase my 34 gallon water column ppm to 30-9-39.

HOWEVER, since I have been LOVING the "mathematical consistency" of large water changes with large recovery doses, and a midweek booster dose, I will do two doses instead of one:

  • After the weekly 75% water change on Sunday, I'll dose 40mL which adds 20-6-26 ppm NPK.
  • On Thursday morning, I'll dose 20mL of the solution, which adds 10-3-13 ppm NPK.
And that's it!

Rather than measuring 2-3 different dry powders, betwteen fifteen cups (35+ measurements! on the scale!) every 4-5 weeks, this solution requires only measuring 6 ingredients on my scales (water, KSorbate, AAcid, KNO3, KH2PO4, and K2SO4) once and lasts for over 10 weeks. It's also already dissolved and easily dosed with a 20mL syringe and stainless steel needle.

Summary:
  • KNO3 and KH2PO4 already add K on their own; discover this ppm already added, and subtract that from your desired K amount. That tells you how much K2SO4 you need to add to reach your total ppm K concentration in your solution.
  • When making a Macro solution with KNO3, KH2PO4, and K2SO4, make sure you can fully dissolve all the K2SO4 you plan on using in your solution.
  • Add them all together with a bit of Potassium Sorbate and Ascorbic Acid (or vinegar!) in pure RO water, and dose according to your solution's concentration relative to your tank's volume.
I know none of this is revolutionary, I'm just typing it out in case it helps someone understand how to do this themselves since I was taking the time to make a solution anyway.
 

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I prepare 4-5 weeks worth of GH remineralizer, initial doses, and booster doses in little 2oz cups.

I have been doing it this way because It's nicer to sit and spend 30-40 minutes making 5 weeks of doses in a single go, than to get the items out every weekend and measure/dose manually. It was also nice to "hold off" on making these doses if I wanted to change or experiment, but I'm ready to just make a Macros solution at this ratio (30-9-39) to make dosing easier. Remember, part of what matters when determining your fertilizer concentration (like 30-9-39) is the water change %. If you only perform 30% WC each week, 30-9-39 will quickly reach toxic/unwanted levels in your aquarium. Conversely, if you do 70% WC each week, you get a lot more leeway to experiment, but will have to dose as much as I do, or similar, to prevent your nutrients from bottoming-out. If you want to understand this or explore more, check out my Nutrient Accumulation Calculator!
I like this idea for remineralizer doses but aren't you using a Chihiros doser for your ferts on this setup? Why not just give those doses with the manual dose option in the app?

Also, some time ago I had a negative response to a guy that was giving really bad advice to someone in a FB aquascaping group. He got mad and called me an aquarium nerd 😁 . It's clear from this forum, there are far bigger aquarium nerds than me. :LOL:
 
Where would we be without myths and legends 🤦🙄🤣

@Naturescapes_Rocco let us know how the corys do going forward. I don't know that I would call BDBS a "bit" sharper than sand, it's basically vitreous, more similar to glass than it is to sand.

I def. have scratched the holy bejesus out of my own fingers with it 😬 and had burrowing snails stressed to the point of death.. but I have not personally had damaged loaches or cory cats!

That's good to hear 💯💯 I personally would still not keep Kuhlis and other small scaleless loaches in this.
Ive used BDBS for 3 years in various tanks and have never had an issue with cory barbels. I had more of an issue with aquarium gravel then I did with cory barbels. The reason people probably run into this is because there is some kinda bacteria that has built up in the substrate and it causes them to wear down.
 
I like this idea for remineralizer doses but aren't you using a Chihiros doser for your ferts on this setup?
Actually I only use the auto doser for micros! The rest are all front-loaded or dosed midweek.
Why not just give those doses with the manual dose option in the app?
I definitely could. The point you and are I sharing here, is that liquid solutions are a bit easier/take less overall time than dry dosing. I plan on manually dosing the exact same method I have been, just using a macro solution instead of little dry cups of powder!

It's clear from this forum, there are far bigger aquarium nerds than me.
It's an honor to be considered a big aquarium nerd here :D
 
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Nice writeup Rocco.

What pH are you targeting, and
Just a "lower" pH than using pure RO water! The standard is often 0.5g Ascorbic Acid per 500mL, but I found that sometimes I get a bit of precipitate if I use too much of it. Some other users found the same, too. Using half of that (0.25g per 500mL), at least with Macros, seems to do the trick when combined with:
how did you determine the amount of potassium sorbate needed?
0.2g KSorbate for every 500mL of water. My scale is only accurate to ~0.1g, so that's what I added.

0.2g KSorbate is common for DIY hobbyist liquid ferts. Many commercial products likely use much stronger/more intense anti-molding agents.

I'll keep an update here on how 0.2g Ascorbic Acid + 0.2g KSorbate per 500mL in a macro solution works.
 
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This post is very apropos as I have been thinking lately that I need to increase my dosing. I haven't been able to test in a couple weeks, but my plants have almost completely stopping pearling by dosing day, and they go crazy soon after I do. Also, my algae isn't getting a lot better. Your post reaffirms that along with Joe's post HERE

Now just to find the time to make the fertilizer mix.

The pearling has reached "upside-down rain" levels daily.
This is so much my goal! I think a pearling tank is the most beautiful thing. 🔥
I always hesitate to say it though because years ago I saw a couple ugly exchanges where someone will associate the health of their plants with pearling. Someone then comes along to call them out about how pearling plants didn't mean they were in great health. I always thought it was stupid. Sure, it isn't the "definitive" indicator of plant health, but plants in poor health and low fertilizer don't pearl much or hardly at all. Plants in good health and with plenty of fertilizer pearl lots.


  • After the weekly 75% water change on Sunday, I'll dose 40mL which adds 20-6-26 ppm NPK.
  • On Thursday morning, I'll dose 20mL of the solution, which adds 10-3-13 ppm NPK.
I use those double neck bottles with the little squeeze reservoir up top. What do you use? Mine only measure like 5, 7.5, 15 or 30ml.
 
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