With the algae-free success of my 39gal Experimental Tank, which uses completely inert sand and 100% water column fertilization (no aquasoil or root tabs), I learned so much about the actual science of this hobby.
I found that I really loved having a substrate where I was in full control; where nutrients were neither released nor absorbed, and where the entire water chemistry could be decided by me. And best of all, I've had the most algae-free success of my life with this smaller experimental tank!
Once I was able to start growing a dwarf hairgrass carpet in this completely inert sand, I realized I wanted to try that in my large 150p showcase tank. Welcome to:
In my previous build of this tank, I started with 9 bags of aquasoil, and eventually used almost 12 full bags in this tank:
At $62/9L, I spent ~$750 on the aquasoil necessary to fill the previous setup properly, and that was with using cheap lava rock mesh bags underneath in the back to add height!
To start this setup, I needed a substrate.
In my experimental tank, I used medium grit Black Diamond Blasting Sand (BDBS ). Black Diamond is the brand, and Blasting Sand is the inert "coal slag" commonly used in this hobby:
One 50lb bag is approx 3.5gal, or 13.2L.
BDBS and Black Beauty are almost identical. BDBS is a bit darker but BB has a larger consistent
At United Western Denver, I picked up 7 bags (350lbs) for only $76. That's less than $11/bag, or $0.83/L .
In the end, I would only use 5 bags for this tank and return the bags, so it cost me less than $56 for the entire substrate of this aquarium. Versus $750 in aquasoil. I saved almost $700 by using BDBS (!!!!)
7 bags for $76
It often has a dusty, oily residue at first. Rinse REALLY well until it's clear!
1) A much larger Horizontal Reactor
2) A massive 55W HO UV Sterilizer
3) Upgrading to 1" (24/31mm) tubing size, with no choke points, across the entire stand
Tommy, the owner of ARC, let me purchase his original prototype acrylic reactor -- which is almost 50% larger than their regular large size.
The reason for upgrading the horizontal reactor is simple: I don't like running my horizontal reactors in overflow mode.
I prefer getting a guaranteed 100% CO2 injection rate, especially with my flowmeters. It's less confounding variables at play, and I waste less CO2.
However, running a reactor in regulator mode not only requires a really good needle valve, it also can build up a gas pocket over time filled with O2 and N2 gasses. If the reactor is too small, it will need to be purged or the splashing noise inside will drive you crazy.
The larger the reactor is, the smaller this "other" gas pocket is. A larger reactor will either never develop a large gas pocket at it's equilibrium, or helps by extending the lenght of time between manual gas purges required. Not a problem for me, as long as I reach 7+ days before needing to purge the reactor! In the previous setup with the "Large" size, I needed to purge every 5-6 days due to splashing noise.
I 3D printed some custom flanges for the 6" holes in the stand walls to accommodate the reactor.
It also means if I ever want to try a larger tank, like 300 gallons, this can be used for that, too!
It's a bit messy, but it works! 55W of Level 1 sterilization achieved!
This was the hardest part of this build, but I really wanted to give it a try.
The current system is setup with 16/22mm (aka 5/8") tubing. This is standard aquascaping/canister filter size tubing, but I wanted... more flow. MUCH more flow.
The system is setup in this order:
I cannot explain just how much larger these 1" pipes are. They're like police batons. Massive!
Tommy also carries a 1" version of the Netlea Prefilter (which is fucking awesome). It's listed as "22mm" but it's not, it's definitely for 1" tubing:
The final "boss" was the Horizontal Reactor. The adapters are 5/8", and I wanted full 1" tubing to have access.
To fix this, I learned how to solvent weld acrylic plastic with Weld-On 3:
First, I practiced drilling and solvent-welding 1" acrylic tubing into a thick piece of scrap acrylic:
Solvent welding acrylic with Weld-On 3 or Weld On 4 literally makes it one piece of plastic. The sheet will break before the joint does (I tried with a hammer, the sheet cracks before the joint even budges!)
Then, I drilled the reactor's acrylic end caps, and solvent-welded in a 1" piece of pipe as the hose barb:
I drilled another hole for a 1/4" RO line bulkhead to inject the CO2 gas, and capped off the original in/out with a removeable PVC cap:
Ready for use! I will just use 1" hose clamps on the silicone hose to attach it to the reactor.
Yes. It was worth it.
When using a 1-gallon pitcher, measuring multiple times, I'm getting somewhere between 1,300 and 1,500 gallons per hour. That's more than what this pump is rated at, flowing through a prefilter, CO2 reactor AND a UV sterilizer.
Here's a video of the flow. It does not do it justice; this one point of water return will literally uproot plants from the substrate and make the tank like a whirlwind:
My fish will be like
Currently, I have the pump running at about 1/3rd speed (can be adjusted on the pump itself). Who knew that 1" upgrade would be so good? Maybe the standard 16/22mm size is restrictive for larger aquariums.
I found that I really loved having a substrate where I was in full control; where nutrients were neither released nor absorbed, and where the entire water chemistry could be decided by me. And best of all, I've had the most algae-free success of my life with this smaller experimental tank!
Once I was able to start growing a dwarf hairgrass carpet in this completely inert sand, I realized I wanted to try that in my large 150p showcase tank. Welcome to:
Inert Sand Trials, Version 1
One successful inert sand tank could always be a fluke. Two successful inert sand tanks? Now, that's getting serious!Main goals of this tank:
- Prove to myself that my current understanding of DIY fertilization can genuinely work (nothing is provided by the substrate)
- Challenge myself by re-creating the setup with the same hardscape as before, to help with comparisons before and after
- Learn to use an inert, unchanging substrate on a massive gallery-quality setup
- See if inert substrates are really better suited for long-term setups!
- Save some money with an incredibly cheaper substrate setup
- Make 3 major upgrades:
- Larger Horizontal Reactor for running in regulator (NOT overflow) mode
- Massive 55W UV sterilizer
- Upgrading tubing/prefilter/lily pipes/pump size to 1" diameter with no smaller choke points
In my previous build of this tank, I started with 9 bags of aquasoil, and eventually used almost 12 full bags in this tank:
At $62/9L, I spent ~$750 on the aquasoil necessary to fill the previous setup properly, and that was with using cheap lava rock mesh bags underneath in the back to add height!
To start this setup, I needed a substrate.
In my experimental tank, I used medium grit Black Diamond Blasting Sand (BDBS ). Black Diamond is the brand, and Blasting Sand is the inert "coal slag" commonly used in this hobby:
One 50lb bag is approx 3.5gal, or 13.2L.
- Aquasoil is approx $6.2/L
- BDBS is approx $1.14/L.
BDBS and Black Beauty are almost identical. BDBS is a bit darker but BB has a larger consistent
At United Western Denver, I picked up 7 bags (350lbs) for only $76. That's less than $11/bag, or $0.83/L .
In the end, I would only use 5 bags for this tank and return the bags, so it cost me less than $56 for the entire substrate of this aquarium. Versus $750 in aquasoil. I saved almost $700 by using BDBS (!!!!)
7 bags for $76
To use Blasting Sand, you need to rinse thoroughly:
It often has a dusty, oily residue at first. Rinse REALLY well until it's clear!
There are also 3 major points of upgrade that this tank will be receiving:
1) A much larger Horizontal Reactor
2) A massive 55W HO UV Sterilizer
3) Upgrading to 1" (24/31mm) tubing size, with no choke points, across the entire stand
Tommy, the owner of ARC, let me purchase his original prototype acrylic reactor -- which is almost 50% larger than their regular large size.
1) Upgrading reactor size
The reason for upgrading the horizontal reactor is simple: I don't like running my horizontal reactors in overflow mode.
I prefer getting a guaranteed 100% CO2 injection rate, especially with my flowmeters. It's less confounding variables at play, and I waste less CO2.
However, running a reactor in regulator mode not only requires a really good needle valve, it also can build up a gas pocket over time filled with O2 and N2 gasses. If the reactor is too small, it will need to be purged or the splashing noise inside will drive you crazy.
The larger the reactor is, the smaller this "other" gas pocket is. A larger reactor will either never develop a large gas pocket at it's equilibrium, or helps by extending the lenght of time between manual gas purges required. Not a problem for me, as long as I reach 7+ days before needing to purge the reactor! In the previous setup with the "Large" size, I needed to purge every 5-6 days due to splashing noise.
I 3D printed some custom flanges for the 6" holes in the stand walls to accommodate the reactor.
It also means if I ever want to try a larger tank, like 300 gallons, this can be used for that, too!
2) Adding a 55W Lifeguard Pro-Max Amaglam UV Sterilizer
I run a 7W sterilizer on my experimental tank, and I had a 14W sterilizer on this 150p tank previously. They are not necessary, but I do find that they help prevent some algae and MASSIVELY improve the water clarity. I thought my water was crystal clear , until I installed the 14W sterilizer on the tank. Since I was upgrading these things, I decided to get a "buy it for life" sterilizer:It's a bit messy, but it works! 55W of Level 1 sterilization achieved!
3) Upgrading to 1" tubing/equipment/lily pipes
This was the hardest part of this build, but I really wanted to give it a try.
The current system is setup with 16/22mm (aka 5/8") tubing. This is standard aquascaping/canister filter size tubing, but I wanted... more flow. MUCH more flow.
The system is setup in this order:
- Intake Lily Pipe
- Prefilter
- Horizontal reactor
- UV Sterilizer
- Optimax return pump
- Return lily pipe
I cannot explain just how much larger these 1" pipes are. They're like police batons. Massive!
Tommy also carries a 1" version of the Netlea Prefilter (which is fucking awesome). It's listed as "22mm" but it's not, it's definitely for 1" tubing:
The final "boss" was the Horizontal Reactor. The adapters are 5/8", and I wanted full 1" tubing to have access.
To fix this, I learned how to solvent weld acrylic plastic with Weld-On 3:
First, I practiced drilling and solvent-welding 1" acrylic tubing into a thick piece of scrap acrylic:
Solvent welding acrylic with Weld-On 3 or Weld On 4 literally makes it one piece of plastic. The sheet will break before the joint does (I tried with a hammer, the sheet cracks before the joint even budges!)
Then, I drilled the reactor's acrylic end caps, and solvent-welded in a 1" piece of pipe as the hose barb:
I drilled another hole for a 1/4" RO line bulkhead to inject the CO2 gas, and capped off the original in/out with a removeable PVC cap:
Ready for use! I will just use 1" hose clamps on the silicone hose to attach it to the reactor.
Was it worth it? Did it really upgrade the flow to change everything to 1" diameter?
Yes. It was worth it.
When using a 1-gallon pitcher, measuring multiple times, I'm getting somewhere between 1,300 and 1,500 gallons per hour. That's more than what this pump is rated at, flowing through a prefilter, CO2 reactor AND a UV sterilizer.
Here's a video of the flow. It does not do it justice; this one point of water return will literally uproot plants from the substrate and make the tank like a whirlwind:
My fish will be like
Currently, I have the pump running at about 1/3rd speed (can be adjusted on the pump itself). Who knew that 1" upgrade would be so good? Maybe the standard 16/22mm size is restrictive for larger aquariums.
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