Journal 60L tank ft Lagenandra meeboldii, using mini Anubias as foreground

[Dennis Wong]

I agree I am pretty sure that is Lysimachia nummularia, I have the same in my tank as well and looks similar. Grows pretty well unless its roots are disturbed, I have found. It was my plant that had a massive dying-off when I decided to uproot older stems and replant the nice tops.

oh ya I found that out awhile ago but didn't update the postings. I have been replanting the tops without much issues - it could be an issue in tanks that are heavily substrate fed, with very lean water column dosing.

 

[Dennis Wong]

Finally found some fish - added some juvenile Inpaichthys luizae (black arrow tetras ). They seem to feed well, can't wait for them to grow a tad larger and color up.

 

[Dennis Wong]

Trimming and replanting vid


Trimmed down the Rotala blood red bush and replaced M roraima with Rotala macrandra mini type 4.

 

[SmartAlec13]

Trimming and replanting vid

Replanting video was helpful to see, especially seeing how much aquasoil you add back in. Thank you for posting it

 

[JayP]

Replanting video was helpful to see, especially seeing how much aquasoil you add back in. Thank you for posting it

I'm not as gentle as Dennis when it comes to adding fresh aquasoil. I use a dixie cup.

 

[CincyScaper]

I have been considering just cutting stems really low and leaving the root system in place for deep rooted plants like S. repens, P. decannensis, and Blyxa and replanting on top of them. This is to help in dense layouts since pulling them out tends to disturb neighboring plants with tangled roots.

Curious if there’s any downside to doing this long term, like root buildup, compaction, or decline in plant health? Or is this generally fine unless you’re doing a full reset?

 

[Dennis Wong]

I have been considering just cutting stems really low and leaving the root system in place for deep rooted plants like S. repens, P. decannensis, and Blyxa and replanting on top of them. This is to help in dense layouts since pulling them out tends to disturb neighboring plants with tangled roots.

Curious if there’s any downside to doing this long term, like root buildup, compaction, or decline in plant health? Or is this generally fine unless you’re doing a full reset?

some tolerate rootzone overcrowding better than other species. I think S repens can be just cut low many many times, same for Blyxa. I'm not sure about P. decannensis though

 

[Dennis Wong]

Background stems have really filled in







Black arrow tetras getting slightly larger and coloring up a bit

 

[JacksonL]

Background stems have really filled in
View attachment 16159View attachment 16160


View attachment 16157



Black arrow tetras getting slightly larger and coloring up a bit
View attachment 16158

That mini type 4 gives such a good colour contrast to the Florida and parvifolia. Is the tank quite nitrate limited to get it that colour?

 

[Dennis Wong]

That mini type 4 gives such a good colour contrast to the Florida and parvifolia. Is the tank quite nitrate limited to get it that colour

Rotala macrandra mini type 4 doesn't change much color wise whether nitrate limited or not

 

[Mr.Shenanagins]

The overhead view is an art form within itself. Very interesting how the same plant looks different at different angles.

 

[Dennis Wong]

Tank survived my 2 week absence, however, I removed the Elatine triandra foreground to use Lobelia feayana that I received from Chantz while in the US. Replaced Anubias minima with Anubias mini coin which looks better I think and contrasts better with the other plants. Added some buceps and replanted the Lysimachia parvifolia to cut it down to size.

I realize I do do a lot of micro-pruning to keep the tight alignment of the various plant bushes. Even just a 2 week break (from pruning) significantly messes up the overall arrangement of the tank. However, in these fast growth environments, I guesstimate that I can get the tank into good alignment again in a couple of weeks.





I realize

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

Question, how do you fly with plants you receive internationally? What's that process like?

 

[Dennis Wong]

Question, how do you fly with plants you receive internationally? What's that process like?

No one really cares about plants, except for Australia and New zealand.
I've brought stuff to most countries in the western world, both hand carry or packed into luggage. Packing into luggage is generally very discreet as long as you don't carry a ton of plants.
You should avoid carrying plants on the noxious weeds list - which can carry a heavier fine. Else generally, you would just be asked to discard the stuff if discovered.
Asia side countries really don't care at all. I've brought back small bush potted plants soil and all.

 

[JayP]

Is it wrong that I'm always enlarging Dennis's photos to spot signs of algae and other flaws?

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

No one really cares about plants, except for Australia and New zealand.
I've brought stuff to most countries in the western world, both hand carry or packed into luggage. Packing into luggage is generally very discreet as long as you don't carry a ton of plants.
You should avoid carrying plants on the noxious weeds list - which can carry a heavier fine. Else generally, you would just be asked to discard the stuff if discovered.
Asia side countries really don't care at all. I've brought back small bush potted plants soil and all.

Good to know. I'm curious as to how physically you move the plants in your luggage. Damp paper towel and plastic bags?
Hard sided containers? Tissue cultures?

 

[Dennis Wong]

Good to know. I'm curious as to how physically you move the plants in your luggage. Damp paper towel and plastic bags?
Hard sided containers? Tissue cultures?

Damp paper/news paper, moist but not dripping. Plants should be washed and deteriorating parts removed. Its the microbial decomposers that cause fast deterioration of plants, so having clean plants with no decaying parts extends transport life greatly. If you are very particular, separating individual plants also enhances your chances of success greatly as deterioration of one sample does not spread to others. So when transporting high value stuff I will pack individual plants separately. After wrapping with paper, add the plants to ziplock bags and remove most of the air - again, it reduces O2 availability to microbial decomposers. Reducing movement also prevents mechanical damage. Lastly I usually pack the ziplock bags into a stiff box so that the plants will not be squashed. Emersed forms transport much better than submerged forms