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Hey Scapecrunch! I posted a journal of this tank on UKAPS but I wanted to share this tank here as well as I think this is a pretty cool build.
I got an amazing opportunity to turn a 1000 gallon tank into a high tech planted tank. I am in the planning phase right now so I wanted to share what I am thinking.
This is the tank currently. The turtle and the all of the fish will be moved to a different setup and a new stocking will be picked for this tank. Someone else will be in charge of fixing up the rock work to make it look nicer and cover the exposed/damaged areas. The tank is 96 in in length, 48 in front to back, and 48 in deep. The filtration on the tank is a sump that is about 200 gallons but it is only halfway full so it contributes about 100 gallons.
I am not sure on what to choose for lighting, but I am leaning towards 4 Chihiro's WRGB II 90 pro. 2 Rows of lights to cover the middle section (Maybe 3 rows of 2?). I wont be having plants near the front, mostly the back half to leave room for a diver to do maintenance. Would this be enough light with how deep the tank is? I am planning to elevate the back half of the substrate pretty high to make sure enough light gets to the plants.
The tank will be having CO2. I am thinking of doing 2 20lb tanks and dual CO2 reactors. I am just not sure how big I will need to make them. I'm aware it will be difficult to get 100% dissolution with how much CO2 I will be needing to inject, so I am okay with having a light mist. I'm sure it will be beneficial for the plants anyways as that's what I see in a lot of ADA tanks. Anyone have an idea of how big I should make these reactors for such a massive tank?
I will use lava rock in the bottom with gravel on top to create the height for the back half of the tank that will have the plants. It will be like a terraced island. The gravel will have a layer of aqua soil on top for the plants (probably ADA or tropica). Outside of the island will be a layer of sand since there wont be plants outside of the island.
Fertilization will be EI dosing, but not full EI because of how much fertilizer that would require. Likely half or a third EI, especially with the aqua soil releasing lots of nutrients anyways for the first months.
I'm working on some sketches of how the layout will be. I am really excited for this project!
I got an amazing opportunity to turn a 1000 gallon tank into a high tech planted tank. I am in the planning phase right now so I wanted to share what I am thinking.
This is the tank currently. The turtle and the all of the fish will be moved to a different setup and a new stocking will be picked for this tank. Someone else will be in charge of fixing up the rock work to make it look nicer and cover the exposed/damaged areas. The tank is 96 in in length, 48 in front to back, and 48 in deep. The filtration on the tank is a sump that is about 200 gallons but it is only halfway full so it contributes about 100 gallons.
I am not sure on what to choose for lighting, but I am leaning towards 4 Chihiro's WRGB II 90 pro. 2 Rows of lights to cover the middle section (Maybe 3 rows of 2?). I wont be having plants near the front, mostly the back half to leave room for a diver to do maintenance. Would this be enough light with how deep the tank is? I am planning to elevate the back half of the substrate pretty high to make sure enough light gets to the plants.
The tank will be having CO2. I am thinking of doing 2 20lb tanks and dual CO2 reactors. I am just not sure how big I will need to make them. I'm aware it will be difficult to get 100% dissolution with how much CO2 I will be needing to inject, so I am okay with having a light mist. I'm sure it will be beneficial for the plants anyways as that's what I see in a lot of ADA tanks. Anyone have an idea of how big I should make these reactors for such a massive tank?
I will use lava rock in the bottom with gravel on top to create the height for the back half of the tank that will have the plants. It will be like a terraced island. The gravel will have a layer of aqua soil on top for the plants (probably ADA or tropica). Outside of the island will be a layer of sand since there wont be plants outside of the island.
Fertilization will be EI dosing, but not full EI because of how much fertilizer that would require. Likely half or a third EI, especially with the aqua soil releasing lots of nutrients anyways for the first months.
I'm working on some sketches of how the layout will be. I am really excited for this project!
172 Replies
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22652 views
For a few years I have been using NilocG EI Based DIY ferts.
This is a kit that comes with a 500 ml bottle for both Macros and Micors as well as three sets of each salt mix.
Last week I mixed up a batch of ferts.
I sterilized both bottles in boiling water.
I used distilled water as always for my mix. I even heated up the distilled water before pouring in the bottles so the salts would dissolve better.
Everything dissolved fine with vigorous shaking.
The instructions for the Micros say there is a possibility it may grow mold and so to prevent mold the offered solution is to add 10ml of Excel or store the Micros in the refrigerator. I opted to keep them in the fridge, why would I buy a bottle of Excel just to use 10ml?
The problem is, and this has been a recurring problem, the Micros seem to turn back into solid chunks. I mean I have particulates and larger solid pieces in the Micros mix.
I can't help but feeling my plants are missing out on nutrients when everything is not totally dissolved in the water.
Any thoughts? Any similar experiences? Any solutions? Should I just switch ferts?
NA EI BASED DIY DRY TO LIQUID FERTILIZER SET
DIY EI Liquid Premium Fertilizer for Planted Tanks Do you want to dose fertilizers but the cost of liquid fertilizers is too high? Do you want to avoid going through the hustle of mixing dry fertilizers yourself? Then this is for YOU!!!!!! What you get- 2x 500ml dosing bottles (1x Micros, 1x...
nilocg.com
This is a kit that comes with a 500 ml bottle for both Macros and Micors as well as three sets of each salt mix.
Last week I mixed up a batch of ferts.
I sterilized both bottles in boiling water.
I used distilled water as always for my mix. I even heated up the distilled water before pouring in the bottles so the salts would dissolve better.
Everything dissolved fine with vigorous shaking.
The instructions for the Micros say there is a possibility it may grow mold and so to prevent mold the offered solution is to add 10ml of Excel or store the Micros in the refrigerator. I opted to keep them in the fridge, why would I buy a bottle of Excel just to use 10ml?
The problem is, and this has been a recurring problem, the Micros seem to turn back into solid chunks. I mean I have particulates and larger solid pieces in the Micros mix.
I can't help but feeling my plants are missing out on nutrients when everything is not totally dissolved in the water.
Any thoughts? Any similar experiences? Any solutions? Should I just switch ferts?
5 Replies
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238 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!
1985 Replies
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48466 views
Rockstar
I know stainless isn't 100% impervious to rust, but I try to let my tools dry out after use and mine have a bit of rust.
I'm frustrated because.... you know.... we all want pretty tools.
I thought I had quality stuff, but now I'm not sure, or I didn't let them dry good a few times.
Do yours rust or do I have
tools?
I'm frustrated because.... you know.... we all want pretty tools.
I thought I had quality stuff, but now I'm not sure, or I didn't let them dry good a few times.
Do yours rust or do I have
tools?
7 Replies
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152 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
I purchased the new Netlea AT6 Pro from Aqua Rocks Colorado. I've been using it for about a month now so I wanted to get a thread going for those that take the plunge, like me, and purchase a Netlea product.
Netlea is a Chinese company, as far as I know, that has a series of lights. They seem to have been in the busy for quite a while. The AT6 Pro is their high-end model.
When I compared the price versus what you get and then looked at the Week Aqua, Chihiros, and others, it just made sense to take a chance on the Netlea. The power is insane and you're able to adjust the spectrum to RGB which is what I was looking for.
I know @Dennis Wong had a unit en route to him for testing. I'm anxious to see what he has to say about it. PAR it seems to have plenty of.
My experience so far
The app leaves a lot to be desired but it is easy to use and hasn't given me any problems. It has active cooling but I don't hear the fans. So, I'm very satisfied so far.
One thing that I really like about this unit is that it is BIG. It provides an even coverage of light over my entire surface area. It has a built in diffuser so I am assuming that the blending will be top of class as well.
@GreggZ is kind enough to let me borrow his PAR meter that I'm anxiously awaiting. I'm currently running it at about 96w. Let's see what the meter reads throughout the aquarium.
While I know many in this community are diehard T5 users, sooner or later getting a hold of the bulbs will become more and more difficult. At some point, you all need to start looking for LEDs. I think this one has a lot of the benefits you get from T5 and the power to back it up.
Anybody else out there thinking of purchasing a new LED? Would you consider one of these new entries?
75 Replies
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12373 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
Amazon prime day is less than 2 weeks away so I thought I'd start a thread in advance to discuss any bargains we might see.
The reason this came to mind now was that I just happen to be browsing for other things when I noticed this small curved edge low iron tank pop up. I would probably buy one of these if it drops even lower for prime day.
10 Gallon Ultra Clear Glass Rimless Curved Edge Aquarium
The reason this came to mind now was that I just happen to be browsing for other things when I noticed this small curved edge low iron tank pop up. I would probably buy one of these if it drops even lower for prime day.
10 Gallon Ultra Clear Glass Rimless Curved Edge Aquarium
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327 views
I Donated 2026
Expert in Residence
MOTM Winner
I came into some Hygrophila polysperma "white" by Tropica recently. Grew it out and it seems to be able to be shaped into good midground bushes so I decided to create a layout to showcase it. Contemplated whether to use it as the only white plant in the tank, but decided to use some Anubias white petite as well so that the white polysperma doesn't stand out awkwardly.
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1194 views
Journal High-Tech 90P Build
Hi guys!
I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.
The starting point:
I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.
I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.
Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.
I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.
These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.
The starting point:
I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.
I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.
Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.
I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.
These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
35 Replies
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1420 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Tried to open the app to change a setting. Goes to a login screen. Checked Chihiros support, and it seems to be an issue with the latest version of the app. The issue appears to be widespread.
Discussion on the Chihiros site.
Discussion on the Chihiros site.
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115 views
I'd like to hear other people's thoughts on using pH drop to estimate CO₂ levels.
I'm in a rather strange situation. First of all, I use two good-quality digital pH meters, both properly calibrated and well maintained. I've been using this type of equipment for years because, before getting into aquariums, I was (and still am) heavily involved in hydroponics.
Anyway, here's the situation:
My fully degassed pH (water left degassing indoors for 72 hours) is 7.6. I know that degassing indoors theoretically results in a higher equilibrium CO₂ concentration than the commonly referenced 0.6 ppm achieved outdoors, but let's use that as a reference point.
With CO₂ running, the aquarium reaches a pH of 5.6, giving me a pH drop of 2.0.
Using the standard ph drop relationship and assuming 0.6 ppm CO₂ at equilibrium, that would suggest roughly 60 ppm CO₂.
However, both on this forum and in various Facebook groups, I often see people reporting pH drops of around 1.0–1.4. Some have even claimed to measure about 60 ppm CO₂ with a Hanna meter while having only a 1.4 pH drop, using water degassed outdoors.
If that were true, then extrapolating from those numbers would suggest that my tank is running at something like 240 ppm CO₂, which seems highly unlikely. My fish appear perfectly fine, and my drop checkers aren't even yellow. In fact, I have three different drop checkers in the tank, using different indicator solutions and placed in different locations, just out of curiosity.
So I'm wondering:
I'd really be interested to hear your thoughts on this rather confusing situation.
I'm in a rather strange situation. First of all, I use two good-quality digital pH meters, both properly calibrated and well maintained. I've been using this type of equipment for years because, before getting into aquariums, I was (and still am) heavily involved in hydroponics.
Anyway, here's the situation:
My fully degassed pH (water left degassing indoors for 72 hours) is 7.6. I know that degassing indoors theoretically results in a higher equilibrium CO₂ concentration than the commonly referenced 0.6 ppm achieved outdoors, but let's use that as a reference point.
With CO₂ running, the aquarium reaches a pH of 5.6, giving me a pH drop of 2.0.
Using the standard ph drop relationship and assuming 0.6 ppm CO₂ at equilibrium, that would suggest roughly 60 ppm CO₂.
However, both on this forum and in various Facebook groups, I often see people reporting pH drops of around 1.0–1.4. Some have even claimed to measure about 60 ppm CO₂ with a Hanna meter while having only a 1.4 pH drop, using water degassed outdoors.
If that were true, then extrapolating from those numbers would suggest that my tank is running at something like 240 ppm CO₂, which seems highly unlikely. My fish appear perfectly fine, and my drop checkers aren't even yellow. In fact, I have three different drop checkers in the tank, using different indicator solutions and placed in different locations, just out of curiosity.
So I'm wondering:
- Do you think the pH drop method is being misinterpreted by many hobbyists?
- Could there be something fundamentally wrong with the assumptions behind comparing pH drops between different tanks?
- Has anyone here measured dissolved CO₂ directly and compared it against pH drop calculations?
I'd really be interested to hear your thoughts on this rather confusing situation.
10 Replies
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135 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
337 Replies
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19054 views