Large size version is 65cm long and 100mm in diameter. ngl im tempted to swap over to it just to regain some space above my sump lol. current yugang reactor im using is around 88" x 2"
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Horizontal CO2 Reactor - Yugang 鱼缸 Reactor
- Thread starter Yugang
- Start date
- Tagged users None
From Aqua Rocks Colorado
I want to add what may be some closure to my personal experience with building a DIY horizontal reactor. My plan was to do it as cheaply as possible, using the overflow method and aiming at a lower CO2 concentration, so using the smaller ratio proposed by Yugang.
I started with a lot of issues to keep the connections watertight. At some point, the permanent leak I had was so small that I decided to use the reactor anyways and just add an empty glass under the leak to collect the water, hoping that eventually it would fix itself with organic build up. It kind of did, for some reason when the filter was running, it would stop leaking, and then it would start again when I turned it off for weekly maintenance, which was very manageable.
I didn't build any transparent regions to see inside the tube and just positioned the outlet in a way that I imagined that would make the top of its inner diameter aligned with the center of the reactor, maximizing the gas surface area. It is important to note that the improvised nature of the reactor wasn't the only one in my tank setup, it was all a big experimentation on cheap solutions. And the results didn't come, I'm having lots of issues. At some point I decided that I should boost my CO2 injection as a way to possibly overcome my other unknown issues (which might as well be mostly the CO2 anyways), so it sounded pretty simple to just increase the length of the reactor. I don't have a reliable way to measure pH, only drop kits, so the precise CO2 measurement or estimation was lacking. I do have a drop checker, which is frustratingly hard to read, but my best assessment is that the color was dark Teal, which sounded a little low, even for my low CO2 expectation.
After some consideration, I decided to use a ~10cm tube that I had left, so I just bought a connector to add it to the existing tube. I then had the idea to build a small window on this new tube and it was surprisingly easy to do, just cut a rectangle opening and glued with silicone glue a clear plastic part that I took from a disposable cup. In theory the added length of tube sounded like a very simple upgrade, but in practice it was very hard to install because the connections for the 50mm tube are all based on o-rings, and even though I lubricated them, they require some strength to open or close, and I had to try my best not to force the already fragile connections. In the end, it got done but now I have some more leaks to watch over...
The big surprise came from watching the reactor's behavior through the small clear window. Even though the output was aligned with the center of the reactor, the gas pocket was almost not existent and it was spitting gas through the output. I turned the outlet to its lowest position possible, which should be much lower than the center of the reactor, and it was still only a small improvement. Then I tilted the new half of the reactor downward, since the connection in the center added some flexibility, and managed to get the air pocket closer to the central diameter (although still a little higher).
In the end, the reactor looks very poorly executed, but the results are impressive. Drop checker is yellow all the way, no second guessing it. The fish didn't seem to mind, so I'll keep it like this for a while and hopefully the plants will improve. My conclusion is that having a way to see the reactor working is imperative when using overflow mode. And overflow mode works great with my awful needle valve; even though I waste some gas, I feel safe that it won't gas my fishes and that my CO2 levels are most likely as stable as I can get them.
Building a small window was very easy and basically free. Unlike using clear tubing, which would have been expensive. And the window was enough to properly understand what was going on.
Another conclusion was that the 50mm tube is hard to work with. There isn't enough room to properly add the eccentric outlet. Even though I think that a thin and long reactor is marginally a better design, I wouldn't work with less than 75 mm in any future DIY project. Or in the least I would need a much better technique to add the connections.
I started with a lot of issues to keep the connections watertight. At some point, the permanent leak I had was so small that I decided to use the reactor anyways and just add an empty glass under the leak to collect the water, hoping that eventually it would fix itself with organic build up. It kind of did, for some reason when the filter was running, it would stop leaking, and then it would start again when I turned it off for weekly maintenance, which was very manageable.
I didn't build any transparent regions to see inside the tube and just positioned the outlet in a way that I imagined that would make the top of its inner diameter aligned with the center of the reactor, maximizing the gas surface area. It is important to note that the improvised nature of the reactor wasn't the only one in my tank setup, it was all a big experimentation on cheap solutions. And the results didn't come, I'm having lots of issues. At some point I decided that I should boost my CO2 injection as a way to possibly overcome my other unknown issues (which might as well be mostly the CO2 anyways), so it sounded pretty simple to just increase the length of the reactor. I don't have a reliable way to measure pH, only drop kits, so the precise CO2 measurement or estimation was lacking. I do have a drop checker, which is frustratingly hard to read, but my best assessment is that the color was dark Teal, which sounded a little low, even for my low CO2 expectation.
After some consideration, I decided to use a ~10cm tube that I had left, so I just bought a connector to add it to the existing tube. I then had the idea to build a small window on this new tube and it was surprisingly easy to do, just cut a rectangle opening and glued with silicone glue a clear plastic part that I took from a disposable cup. In theory the added length of tube sounded like a very simple upgrade, but in practice it was very hard to install because the connections for the 50mm tube are all based on o-rings, and even though I lubricated them, they require some strength to open or close, and I had to try my best not to force the already fragile connections. In the end, it got done but now I have some more leaks to watch over...
The big surprise came from watching the reactor's behavior through the small clear window. Even though the output was aligned with the center of the reactor, the gas pocket was almost not existent and it was spitting gas through the output. I turned the outlet to its lowest position possible, which should be much lower than the center of the reactor, and it was still only a small improvement. Then I tilted the new half of the reactor downward, since the connection in the center added some flexibility, and managed to get the air pocket closer to the central diameter (although still a little higher).
In the end, the reactor looks very poorly executed, but the results are impressive. Drop checker is yellow all the way, no second guessing it. The fish didn't seem to mind, so I'll keep it like this for a while and hopefully the plants will improve. My conclusion is that having a way to see the reactor working is imperative when using overflow mode. And overflow mode works great with my awful needle valve; even though I waste some gas, I feel safe that it won't gas my fishes and that my CO2 levels are most likely as stable as I can get them.
Building a small window was very easy and basically free. Unlike using clear tubing, which would have been expensive. And the window was enough to properly understand what was going on.
Another conclusion was that the 50mm tube is hard to work with. There isn't enough room to properly add the eccentric outlet. Even though I think that a thin and long reactor is marginally a better design, I wouldn't work with less than 75 mm in any future DIY project. Or in the least I would need a much better technique to add the connections.
i see you're in brazil @LMuhlen perhaps on the next iteration you can use a plastic such as PVC and with the proper solvents (pvc glue) you shouldn't have any leaks and putting it together should be much easier.
- Thread starter
- #305
Officially I am still experimenting with CO2 Spray Bar, 10 ppm CO2 in overflow mode, but I am contemplating if I continue on that path or perhaps go back to slightly higher CO2 ppm and enjoy my reactor again.
I shortened my reactor, so that it is now 9.300 mm2, for my 50 gallon tank. This would be a 48 ratio, rather than the 17.7 ratio that we use for an estimated 1.5 pH drop. I don't have the exact number, but estimate that this 48 ratio will give me about 1.1 pH drop in overflow mode.
I drilled a hole in the acrylic tube, slightly smaller diameter than the CO2 tube. Cut the CO2 tube at an angle, forming a sharp tip that can be pulled through the hole. This fits to tight, that I won't need glue for a gas and watertight fit. Inside the reactor I use elbows for water in and exit, so that overflow mode works at the tube exactly half filled.
To be decided if I continue with 10 ppm CO2, I am really happy with it, or fire up my reactor again and go more conventional with CO2. It's tough making choices with only one tank.
I shortened my reactor, so that it is now 9.300 mm2, for my 50 gallon tank. This would be a 48 ratio, rather than the 17.7 ratio that we use for an estimated 1.5 pH drop. I don't have the exact number, but estimate that this 48 ratio will give me about 1.1 pH drop in overflow mode.
I drilled a hole in the acrylic tube, slightly smaller diameter than the CO2 tube. Cut the CO2 tube at an angle, forming a sharp tip that can be pulled through the hole. This fits to tight, that I won't need glue for a gas and watertight fit. Inside the reactor I use elbows for water in and exit, so that overflow mode works at the tube exactly half filled.
To be decided if I continue with 10 ppm CO2, I am really happy with it, or fire up my reactor again and go more conventional with CO2. It's tough making choices with only one tank.
Has anyone tried building one with a RV holding tank? just something that came across my mind when I was thinking of reorganizing some things under my tank
there's some variants with a screw on lid you can use for cleaning
Flatter than the one above
there's some variants with a screw on lid you can use for cleaning
Flatter than the one above
Amazon.com: WOOXGEHM Water Holding Tank, 20.47 X 13.39 X 5.51in 5 Gallon RV Fresh Water Tank, High Toughness LLDPE RV Grey Water Tank for Rvs, Trailers, Boats, Yachts : Automotive
Buy WOOXGEHM Water Holding Tank, 20.47 X 13.39 X 5.51in 5 Gallon RV Fresh Water Tank, High Toughness LLDPE RV Grey Water Tank for Rvs, Trailers, Boats, Yachts: Freshwater Tanks & Inlets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
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- Thread starter
- #307
This one looks good, but for a horizontal reactor it will be very powerfull as it provides 169.000 mm2.
It would be powerful enough to push a 3 meter * 1 meter tank to 1.5 pH drop. For any smaller tank, need safety measures as the reactor could easily gas the fish when anything goes wrong with injection.
Phobos
New Member
Hello, first time posting on a forum like this!
I stumbled upon this thread while looking for a solution for my setup and was floored at how ingenious yet simple this is. I’ve never liked ceramic diffusers and was frustrated that there hasn’t been a non-ceramic solution for smaller tanks that didn’t make noise or require a ton of flow. I couldn’t find many examples of the horizontal reactor being used on smaller tanks so I thought I’d document what I plan to do.
My plan is as follows: I have one 26 gallon tank running a Cerges reactor and recently got a 30cm, 7 gallon cube nano tank that I wanted to run with CO2 as well. I have a GLA regulator with 2 outputs which meant using a ceramic diffuser with it wouldn’t be ideal since I’m running a lower pressure for my Cerges reactor (plus I just don’t like the fizzy look of ceramic anyway)
I have an old Griggs reactor I made previously that I’m looking to convert to this horizontal style. I still need to figure out the exact dimensions of it (I stored it in my attic), but my plan is to shorten it to meet the surface area needs of my cube tank (which if my calculations are correct, should be ~5085mm^2). I plan to run this with a Fluval 107.
I’ll report back if I manage to get it to work.
I stumbled upon this thread while looking for a solution for my setup and was floored at how ingenious yet simple this is. I’ve never liked ceramic diffusers and was frustrated that there hasn’t been a non-ceramic solution for smaller tanks that didn’t make noise or require a ton of flow. I couldn’t find many examples of the horizontal reactor being used on smaller tanks so I thought I’d document what I plan to do.
My plan is as follows: I have one 26 gallon tank running a Cerges reactor and recently got a 30cm, 7 gallon cube nano tank that I wanted to run with CO2 as well. I have a GLA regulator with 2 outputs which meant using a ceramic diffuser with it wouldn’t be ideal since I’m running a lower pressure for my Cerges reactor (plus I just don’t like the fizzy look of ceramic anyway)
I have an old Griggs reactor I made previously that I’m looking to convert to this horizontal style. I still need to figure out the exact dimensions of it (I stored it in my attic), but my plan is to shorten it to meet the surface area needs of my cube tank (which if my calculations are correct, should be ~5085mm^2). I plan to run this with a Fluval 107.
I’ll report back if I manage to get it to work.
Kwyet
After every new tank—“This is my last one!”
He also has an ingenious CO2 Spray Bar meant for smaller tanks that you might want to take a look at.
*Ci*
Tending water worlds since 1975!
Welcome to the forum @Phobos . You might also consider Yugangs’ Co2 Spray Bar for even more simplicity (no need to make it watertight):
Co2 Spray Bar - a summary
Haha, cross posted with @Kwyet : )
Co2 Spray Bar - a summary
Haha, cross posted with @Kwyet : )
Phobos
New Member
Thanks for the warm welcome! As an update, I ended up placing the horizontal reactor on my 26 gallon main tank since the length for it was coincidentally exactly what I need given the surface area for my 26 gallon. For my 7 gal, I swapped to the Cerges in the meantime but might end up trying the CO2 spray bar as suggested.
I haven’t been the best at dialing in CO2 so I’ve been using this project as an excuse to learn how to do a better job at doing so (so please feel free to correct me or suggest any tips).
For now, I have turned the CO2 1 hour before lights on and plan to run it until 1 hour before lights off.
With the horizontal reactor, I’ve observed a drop of pH at lights on from 7.0 to 6.4. I used a degassed sample left overnight and shaken to remove as much CO2 as possible. I may need to either increase the rate of CO2 or push back the CO2 turning on to a littler more than 1 hour before lights on.
I haven’t been the best at dialing in CO2 so I’ve been using this project as an excuse to learn how to do a better job at doing so (so please feel free to correct me or suggest any tips).
For now, I have turned the CO2 1 hour before lights on and plan to run it until 1 hour before lights off.
With the horizontal reactor, I’ve observed a drop of pH at lights on from 7.0 to 6.4. I used a degassed sample left overnight and shaken to remove as much CO2 as possible. I may need to either increase the rate of CO2 or push back the CO2 turning on to a littler more than 1 hour before lights on.
Hello,
I would like to understand what the issue is here. The reactor was operating normally for a day, with half of it filled with water (see first image).
After a full day of operation, the entire reactor filled with water (see second image). Even after I drain the reactor to half its height, it still fills up with water again.
**I have checked the reactor, and there are no leaks or spills.
I would appreciate your help in finding a solution.
Thank you.
I would like to understand what the issue is here. The reactor was operating normally for a day, with half of it filled with water (see first image).
After a full day of operation, the entire reactor filled with water (see second image). Even after I drain the reactor to half its height, it still fills up with water again.
**I have checked the reactor, and there are no leaks or spills.
I would appreciate your help in finding a solution.
Thank you.
Are you turning co2 off? I have noticed in mine that when the co2 is off the reactor fills almost completely woth water. Another issue could be not enough co2 injection to create a bubble.
I often have my CO2 turn on 2-4 hours before the lights come on (to reach saturation around/before the lights come on).
I mean, if you're injecting CO2 there will be a pocket of gas. If there's no pocket, either the CO2 is getting absorbed SUPER fast, or you're not injecting (or you do have a gas leak somewhere).
These things are pretty simple in their design and should be easy to troubleshoot. What material is this btw, it looks good!
The reactor fills with CO2 while on, half full of CO2. The reactor fills with water when CO2 is off because all the CO2, in the chamber, has dissolved into the water. This is 100% normal.
Uncle_R
🌿 Lurking in the wet plants 🍃
I’m trying to dial in my reactor. What regulator pressure is everyone using? Is a high or low water flow through the reactor more efficient?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
@Uncle_R A gentle flow seems ideal to keep the amount of bubbles/undissolved co2 to a minimum. This type of reactor doesn’t rely on current to “chop” up the bubbles like a vertical reactor is.
I've got a relatively "fast" flow from a modified Biomaster 850 filter. I keep the working/regulator pressure at about 10 PSI (you don't need much pressure at all with these reactors, just enough to 'crack'/push open your check valve(s)!). LMK if you have other questions!
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No more than 20psi
Uncle_R
🌿 Lurking in the wet plants 🍃
Thanks all, @Naturescapes_Rocco and others how long does it take to get your pH drop? It takes me [emoji[emoji
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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