I feel like dead fish is one thing, rotting is another story.A tank with that much water and plant mass can usually handle a dead fish in my experience
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I feel like dead fish is one thing, rotting is another story.A tank with that much water and plant mass can usually handle a dead fish in my experience
It's as good as the fish can take. I take CO2 to first signs of stress the back it off a .1.How is CO2?
That's my only guess. This AIO tank has had me fishing fish out of the back on multiple occasions. I may have not seen one during my inspections. I have bags of media and I bet it lodged under one where I can't see.Holy crap that’s the biggest B. caroliniana I’ve ever seen.
My vote is for dead fauna of some sort. Every time I see that kind of wreckage I find something dead (or evidence of it). Happened to me recently with a danio that got stuck behind the intake and the glass.
If it's not a dead fish, I'll need to go back to the drawing board. Freaking no clue if not a rotten fishA tank with that much water and plant mass can usually handle a dead fish in my experience
Me toooly crap that’s the biggest B. caroliniana I’ve ever seen.
I concur.A tank with that much water and plant mass can usually handle a dead fish in my experience
The lights are abought a year and a half old, but I swear they seem a bit less "bright", but I also turned 50 this year and this could all be in my head. They are LED types and should be still "okay".Examples of such changes in my tank that blindsided me (and took me months to figure out):
- Gradual dimming of my T5HO tubes. (Solved once I got new tubes)
- Depleting old soil. (Solved by upping water column dosing)
- Stopping P dosing and getting the impact many many months later. (Solved by dosing P again)
Funny you mention this, I moved this tank to farm. If it's not a rotting fish, then I need to be better.When I have noticed an outbreak of thread/hair algae like this it is 100% related to not being as excessive in maintenance. Either removing dead flora or cleaning the substrate. I have this problem much more frequently in the farm tanks than I ever did in the main tank as I was much more thorough on maintenance of that tank. This is just been my experience. Though I have never had it this bad. Was it an "overnight" development or a gradual progression?
I estimate the water volume between 80 to 95 gallons, I change 43 to 50 gallons per week, sometimes twice a week; where I dose my storages water to 30/7/35 NPK-35Ca, 6Mg. I checked PO4 and NO3 yesterday. PO4 was real low, maybe 2ppm and NO3 was 25-30ppm.What are your levels? Just curious if any of those are hitting.

So here's the primary tank. The only difference from the 120 to this tank is the amount of water changes and the substrate. Excuse the messy layout (have to generate content for the Dutch YouTube series). I'm doing close to 140% changes per week. Dosing the same front load numbers, 30/7/35.
If there's no dead fish, I assume I'm under dosing the 120.View attachment 6867
This tank a month ago was an algae disaster too
Well, let me clarify how I dose. Nutrients only come from water changes. My storage water is dosed. Not the tanks directly. So the amount of tank dosing is directly related to the amount of water changed.I think this picture/post affirms my thought, the downside to multiple tanks is definitely being lax at times of maintenance of farm tanks. If you are dosing the same numbers on the farm tank, I don't think you are underdosing. Those numbers are extremely close to mine. The double weekly water changes and keeping things clean is helping this tank.
I remember what this tank looked like a few weeks ago now its really pristine. Your plant growth is great. That l. aromatica "mini" street is sweet and I absolutely love the placement/trimming/contrast next to the hottonia palustris?
One thing I have seen in comparison of my tanks to yours is trimming and you are light years ahead of me which makes sense because of my time vs your time in this side of the hobby. I look forward to getting to where you are. I've greatly approved in 6 months but still have a long way to go.
Correct, however your total accumulation should be the same pending you are water changing 70% once a week(on the farm tank) vs 2x a week(on the primary tank). But if you are just water changing and not cleaning substrate or trimming/removing dead flora in the farm tank then this creates a buildup of organics leading to algae, and this is what I see in my farm tanks. Hopefully I am not being confusing but again maybe its something else entirely but this is just what I have experienced.Well, let me clarify how I dose. Nutrients only come from water changes. My storage water is dosed. Not the tanks directly. So the amount of tank dosing is directly related to the amount of water changed.
Nope, perfectly clear. When this started popping up. I did a back to back substrate clean. And I will do it again when I pull all the plants out this week. I do limit gravel vacuums as I experience them as more of a disruption with a bit of recovery time. I 100 percent neglect the back overflow area, and I shouldn't. This area may be the true source of the problem, rotting fish or not. Deep clean coming right! Have too if I'm going to be responsible.Correct, however your total accumulation should be the same pending you are water changing 70% once a week(on the farm tank) vs 2x a week(on the primary tank). But if you are just water changing and not cleaning substrate or trimming/removing dead flora in the farm tank then this creates a buildup of organics leading to algae, and this is what I see in my farm tanks. Hopefully I am not being confusing but again maybe its something else entirely but this is just what I have experienced.
That might be the area for concern. I just know in the main tank everytime I uprooted and trimmed I vacuumed under those plants and never had an algae problem besides GDA on the glass or a little substrate. But in contrast to the farm tanks I never really did that caused algae. Those were the only differences between the tanks.Nope, perfectly clear. When this started popping up. I did a back to back substrate clean. And I will do it again when I pull all the plants out this week. I do limit gravel vacuums as I experience them as more of a disruption with a bit of recovery time. I 100 percent neglect the back overflow area, and I shouldn't. This area may be the true source of the problem, rotting fish or not. Deep clean coming right! Have too if I'm going to be responsible.![]()
LEDs definitely don't dim as fast as fluorescent tubes. Don't think LED dimming would be a real issue in the practical sense.The lights are abought a year and a half old, but I swear they seem a bit less "bright", but I also turned 50 this year and this could all be in my head. They are LED types and should be still "okay".
I use BDBS, so inert there
By P dosing, do you mean PO4? I read your post yesterday and decided to test, it was much lower than what I expected. This may suggest I don't have a dead fish and this is all my fault. I try not to nutrient tunnel, but maybe it's time to get more strict. I hate testing though. Nitrates were close to 25-30ppm though. Well maybe, I didn't calibrate this new test kit.
And thank you for the post, trust me, I'm doubting everything I know and your feed back is awesome. My most significant change is moving this tank to farm plants, and I may have relaxed too much by taking things for granted.
I read the last few posts and it sounds like you have to do a lot of work on your tanks.Nope, perfectly clear. When this started popping up. I did a back to back substrate clean. And I will do it again when I pull all the plants out this week. I do limit gravel vacuums as I experience them as more of a disruption with a bit of recovery time. I 100 percent neglect the back overflow area, and I shouldn't. This area may be the true source of the problem, rotting fish or not. Deep clean coming right! Have too if I'm going to be responsible.![]()
