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Sorry, but I just find this hilarious! Perhaps they'll ask scientists if there's a way to turn down the brightness and photoperiod of the sun.

Headline:

"Reflecting Pool woes: Trump administration turns to hydrogen peroxide in latest bid to beat back algae"​

Ive reorganized the order of my tanks so I can better keep track of them ie. Tank 2 moss tank is now tank 3. This helps in any confusion I had when tracking tanks they are in a sort of order now. Rather than taking time editing my old journal id rather create a new thread. Pics will be current (for the most part) as they are posted. I am not aquascaping. I am just farming.

I don't know where I saw it, but I read somewhere that the US imports its CO2. So people were reporting not being able to get it because it is stuck in the Straight of Hormuz. Who knew? Seems weird to me. Anyway, yeah, it's open now, but it might take awhile to get back to normal supply levels. You might want to check with your vendor if you're getting low.

Inspiration, Goals, & Considerations

I've had an interest in aquariums since a young age and had my own aquarium with fish like Angelfish and Mollies around middle school. Growing up, my dad had a bigger tank with Blood Parrots and Silver Dollars. Over 10 years ago, I had a low maintenance 55 gallon planted tank. I was pretty proud of it, but always envied the high tech tanks I saw on forums/social media and told myself when I broke that tank down that the next time I set up a tank, it would be like what I envied. At the end of 2024, I set up a small low tech 5 gallon planted tank to help scratch my aquarium itch, which really only reaccelerated my desire for setting up a high tech tank. And now, here we are!

The size of the tank was mostly dictated by the space. I originally planned on something around 30 gallons, but my LFS had the UNS 75P in stock and after measuring and discussing with my wife, we agreed it would work for the space. The tank is between the kitchen and living room, which is essentially a play area for my son, so lighting needs to be adjusted to make sure he's not blinded by the light when looking up at the tank.

Generally, I'd like to have a visually pleasing aquarium with lots of fish and plants that's peaceful to enjoy. I'd like to automate / reduce as much friction as possible and I realize there's still plenty I need to learn, so I'll need to have patience when things go wrong. I want to keep away from anything that's hard to get out of the tank once it's in (duckweed, moss, pest snails, etc). I felt like sharing prices below might give value to anyone in the future that's looking to start where I did with a high tech tank.

Specs (prices include sales tax)
Tank:

Lighting:

Filtration:

Co2:

Inflow & Outflow Pipes:

Substrate & Hardscape:

Fertilization:
Battery Backup & Power

Other Misc Equipment:
Chihiros CO2 Drop Checker
5 x Oase ShutOff Valve 16/22
Inkbird WiFi ITC-308 - $38
SwitchBot Leak Detectors - $15 each

"Stand"
Because the guts are located in a kitchen cabinet, I didn't want to screw directly into it and damage it. I was also concerned silicone would not be able to dry and outgas properly when sealing the edges. I opted to line the cabinet with contact paper. It's essentially a giant sticker, so I lined the sides, bottoms, and a second layer over the bottom edges/joints. I built a 3 panel "stand" inside of the cabinet so I could house everything and screw into the plywood without any concerns. I used 1 sheet of 3/4" Maple plywood and coated 1 side with a latex primer followed by a layer of latex white paint. This is mostly for water resistance and not necessarily water proof. I placed a silicone cabinet liner under the right side equipment. I made a shelf to place the EcoFlow on so if there's a catastrophic leak it's off the bottom.

One consideration I hadn't thought about was how "cramped" the cabinet would be since I placed the EcoFlow on a shelf with a "wall", which essentially made the work area much tighter.

Cable Management: Raceway and cable clips
Water
Express Water RO5DX - $160
55 Gallon Brute Trash Can, 44 Gallon Brute Trash Can, 32 Gallon Greenmade Trash Can, and 2x dollys.
Plants (all UNS TC)

• Homalomena Sp Sekadau South (babysitter)
• Hydrocotyle Tripartita (potentially babysitter)
• Alternanthera Reineckii Rosanervig (initially planned as babysitter, but may keep some in long term)
• Hemianthus Callitrichoides 'Cuba'
• Rotala Rotundifolia Blood Red
• Anubias Nana Petite
• Micranthemum 'Monte Carlo'
• Alternanthera Reineckii 'Mini'
• Echinodorus Rose

Livestock:

Coming soon

• 25x Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbow
• 7x C005 Corydoras pantanalensis
• 3x C123 Yellow Cory 'Rio Nanay'
• Aphyosemion bivittatum 'Funge' Pair
• 5x Stiphodon rutilaureus Goby
• 1x True Siamese Algae Eaters
• 1x Bamboo Shrimp
• 8x Amano Shrimp

Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @Chimera!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?

Inspired by the thread on CO2 controllers, and @Art experiment with modified pH probe / drop checker, I came up with what is to the best of my knowledge a new approach for our hobby.

I am not strong on the chemistry of CO2 in water, so it would be great if others chime in and comment if this approach makes sense.

Use the principle of Henry's law and fill the space under a closed aquarium lid with the correct concentration of CO2, using an affordable 65 USD sensor or similar with solenoid to release CO2 above the water. Control CO2 partial pressure so that the tank water will reach equilibrium with this gas pocket at about 30 ppm in the water. This would allow for very stable CO2 in the tank, and a big saver in CO2 as we don't rely on the outgassing via surface agitation to achieve stability. Besides that, it will be only weakly dependent on water chemistry (this may need to be tested and/or confirmed/quantified by chemists, as the chemistry and temperature do have some influence on CO2 solubility?).





Notes:

• My first thoughts/estimations are that one can reach 30 ppm in the tank water very fast, and have probably more than 90% savings on CO2 consumption. As we now measure CO2 in the gas pocket, independent of water chemistry, it would (hopefully) also be the first time that we can forget water chemistry as a major factor, complications with pH probes and using pH as a proxy, and indeed know the real water CO2 ppm more accurately and with less risks of misinterpretations of measurements.
• We don't need a precision expensive CO2 regulator anymore, no diffuser or reactor, no pH probe or drop checker. Just a sensor with electronics that switches a solenoid on and off. It would probably be good to have a simple air pump added, so that O2 and other gasses can exchange, but this would give very low CO2 losses.

From a physics and chemical perspective the approach is very similar (in reverse) to what professional dissolved CO2 probes do (see attached: measure CO2 concentration in a gas pocket that is in equilibrium with water), so that gives me some confidence that the above will work. However I am not confident that my understanding of chemistry of CO2 in water is good enough, and I may miss important aspects. Hope others chime in, and help to quantify if the chemistry is a minor or perhaps a major complication.

Attached file: Datasheet explaining the principle and use of a dedicated dissolved CO2 meter (for most in the hobby too expensive, but similar scientific principles applied as in above ideas).

Era of AI slop is truly upon us. Firstly, no one holds the Oxyguard analyzer's probe as it takes 15-20mins to get a reading.
Size of the box is wrong and no shadows below the box, caps missing and a strap that goes nowhere. Aquarium looks fake as well. Real pic below for comparison.

Hey all,

I’m setting up a new tank in Tasmania, Australia. I’ve had planted tanks many years ago in Sydney. To say the selection of equipment and plants here is limited, would be generous. While I can get lighting and filtration online, substrate is proving difficult. I’m going for a 90P (if I can get a low iron glass one here) so I need enough substrate to do the job. My options would be inert sand/gravel with root tabs or try an aqua soil of some variety. The only thing I can find locally to avoid huge shipping costs is Aqua Earth - which is stocked by a local fish supplier at about $60 AUD/6L.


Has anyone used this product before or have any reviews?

This tank is planned to have a few stem plants, various crypts, tiger lotus and hopefully a small carpet area of Monte Carlo or Marsilea and some pygmy chain swords (echinodorus).

Cheers
Chimera

I'm back with another new setup! Well, sort of new. I ran out of space in my 20g long farm tank, to the point that I had bucephalandra suction cupped to the tank walls. Not only that, but the buce wasn't as happy as it should have been with inert sand, as I felt it isn't fast enough in regards to nutrient absorption that it was able to take what it needed just from the water column.

The buce that I keep are all rare collectors species as well, which really benefit from a more acidic environment to reach their full color potential. Taking those things into account, I knew my collection would benefit greatly by swapping over to a tank with aquasoil and RO water.

Here's the details of the setup:
Landen 90p (44 gallon)
36"×18"x18"
Netlea AT5
Netlea soil capped with Samurai Soil
Inline co2 diffuser
Oase Biomaster 350

Current water parameters:
76F
pH of 6.5, gH of 7, kH<1

The lights are currently running 8 hours, though I wish I could afford a PAR meter rental right now. For what it's worth, my Netlea app says my custom setting is at 70 watts. I'm aiming to run this tank at about 100 watts eventually, but since the buce is going to need some time to settle, slow and steady wins the race on this one. I did dark start the Netlea soil for about 2 weeks, using cycled filter media. When I break down the old farm tank, I'll be taking my Fluval canister off and adding it to this new tank and running 2 filters, to keep flow on the moderate end. I also made the decision to run my co2 24/7, to keep things as stable and consistent as possible for the buce. The only inhabitants I'll be keeping in this tank will be some ramshorn snails and my CRS colony.

Currently I have a little over 40 rare to incredibly rare species in the tank, though I do have more on the way as you can see, I'm already running low on floor space.



I'm not entirely sure how I feel about the ID stakes I made, truthfully I'm able to ID them by leaf shape and size, but I thought it may make things look more organized. That being said, they're itching my brain in a bad way, so I may end up removing them.

Here's some photos of species that managed to maintain some good color even in a more alkaline setup, so it can only get better from here! I've spent countless hours translating articles and posts in Chinese to figure out what kind of parameters the Chinese collectors use to get their crazy colors and leaf forms, so this will be a very interesting experiment for me!

I came into some Hygrophila polysperma "white" by Tropica recently. Grew it out and it seems to be able to be shaped into good midground bushes so I decided to create a layout to showcase it. Contemplated whether to use it as the only white plant in the tank, but decided to use some Anubias white petite as well so that the white polysperma doesn't stand out awkwardly.