Journal Trying to make a high-end aquascape from scratch

[BigWave]

Used Kils primer and then this this on my stand for the top coat.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Krylon-Appliance-Specialty-6-Pack-Gloss-White-Epoxy-Spray-Paint-NET-WT-12-oz/1000459665#:~:text=Overview,null

 

[gjcarew]

Got the tank on the stand and everything leveled. I might end up replacing the doors as one of them was bowed, so they look really ugly from the side. No idea how that happened - maybe it got wet.

Anyways, that explains how I ended up with a slight twist in the stand despite everything being square -- the stock wasn't flat!

 

[Kwyet]

Looks great!

 

[gjcarew]

Ugh. Leak testing things today and my new Aqua Rocks Colorado Yugang reactor is leaking. I leak tested it before mounting it but maybe the head pressure wasn't high enough? Or maybe the tubing loosened the screw-on connector as I was installing?

It is a little concerning how relatively loose the connections are. I did like 4 layers of teflon tape and the threads still didn't feel particularly snug.

One pretty big design flaw is the fact that you can't easily remove the reactor it once mounted. Sure, I can take it off the back wall of the tank, but I can't reinstall it in the same place without first filling the screwholes with wood filler (or wood glue and sawdust) so it will actually stay in place.

 

[Kwyet]

I had that problem with the stainless steel one. Regular Teflon tape didn’t fix it, but this kind did.

 

[Jeff Miotke]

Ugh. Leak testing things today and my new Aqua Rocks Colorado Yugang reactor is leaking. I leak tested it before mounting it but maybe the head pressure wasn't high enough? Or maybe the tubing loosened the screw-on connector as I was installing?

It is a little concerning how relatively loose the connections are. I did like 4 layers of teflon tape and the threads still didn't feel particularly snug.

One pretty big design flaw is the fact that you can't easily remove the reactor it once mounted. Sure, I can take it off the back wall of the tank, but I can't reinstall it in the same place without first filling the screwholes with wood filler (or wood glue and sawdust) so it will actually stay in place.

Yea… had to do a ridiculous number of wraps…to the point where it didn’t look like it would fit in any more.

 

[JayP]

One pretty big design flaw is the fact that you can't easily remove the reactor it once mounted. Sure, I can take it off the back wall of the tank, but I can't reinstall it in the same place without first filling the screwholes with wood filler (or wood glue and sawdust) so it will actually stay in place.

I assume this is referring to the SS reactor? The acrylic version has this type of mounting hole.

 

[gjcarew]

Yeah, this is the SS reactor

 

[JacksonL]

View attachment 13558
Got the tank on the stand and everything leveled. I might end up replacing the doors as one of them was bowed, so they look really ugly from the side. No idea how that happened - maybe it got wet.

Anyways, that explains how I ended up with a slight twist in the stand despite everything being square -- the stock wasn't flat!

Beautiful stand! I am in awe of people who can work with wood so well.

 

[gjcarew]

Beautiful stand! I am in awe of people who can work with wood so well.

Very kind but I have felt like I'm flailing the whole time here

 

[gjcarew]

Ok folks, next problem: when I moved the old stand out, it left this water stain. I think it is from when my filter was leaking. I thought I got everything with towels and the dehumidifier, but it looks like part of the base of the old stand was in contact with the wood floor preventing it from drying. I've let it dry out, but I need to fix this discoloration.

Any suggestions? I was thinking sand it down then try to match the stain/finish, but I don't really know how to do that, and I don't want to make it look worse than it currently does.

 

[Koan]

I'd get some estimates from a floor refinisher, there are lots in the area and for one room it shouldn't be bad at all

 

[JacksonL]

Very kind but I have felt like I'm flailing the whole time here

Easy to only see the problems when you are scrutinising every step for issues and looking at it closely. It’s looking great from an outside observer.

 

[gjcarew]

I'm calling it - the tank isn't "done", but this is where it becomes a more traditional journal. Plumbing is sorted, clean-up crew is in, and I planted a bunch of TC plants today.

 

[gjcarew]

Still working on getting everything dialed. The yugang reactor is probably oversized here, since I'm getting like 60 ppm CO2 when running in overflow mode. So I have to dial it in with the needle valve.

This is some ludwigia senegalensis, which is the first plant to start to look good (most of the other tc plants are still getting started). I grew it when I was first starting out (like 8 years ago), and it gave me a bunch of trouble. Still one of my faves though. I'm hoping it will grow well in this tank.

 

[gjcarew]

I think I need a new flow meter. Trying to adjust the bubble counter is a crapshoot - I was at 25ppm just now.

I used to have a dwyer rma 151 sv but I didn't like that it was mounted separate from the regulator... What are y'all using these days that can drop in where a bubble counter usually goes?

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

You'd have to build a custom setup for what you're looking for -- there are no stock flowmeter-attached-to-regulator setups on the market.

I currently use a RMA 151, too, and just built a 3D printed bracket to hold it to the cabinet. Is that how yours was setup?

 

[ample]

Ok, so this is going to seem painfully obvious to the woodworkers here. I've been getting some cuts that are ~2 mm off occasionally. I thought maybe I am bad a measuring, maybe my straightedge is vibrating out of position... Well I finally figured out that you need to account for the kerf differently depending on which side you set the straightedge from.

So let's say I need a 1000 mm cut, and the guard is 100 mm, and the kerf is 2 mm. If I set the straightedge on the offcut side of the cut, I need to set it at 1102 mm (cut length + guard + kerf).

But if I set the straightedge on the side I wish to keep, I need to set it at 900 mm from my measuring point, since I don't want to include the width of the kerf in that cut.

Basically I've been adding and subtracting 102 assuming that was a fixed distance, not considering which side I'm cutting from.

I knew I was gonna make some dumb mistakes on this project, but I don't think anything is significantly derailed. The back sheet is 2 mm short, but I don't think that makes enough of a difference to warrant re-cutting it considering the cost of the materials. Any thoughts?

Don’t worry. I forgot that pilot holes were a thing and completely split one of my 2X2s making my stand. Making dummy mistakes means you’re learning a new skill.

 

[gjcarew]

Alright, well I'll have to see if I can find some fittings. It's just tough to o search for because I don't know what anything is called

 

[Koan]

see if I can find some fittings. It's just tough to o search for because I don't know what anything is called

Paging @Bettatail, @Bettatail to the white courtesy telephone please