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Horizontal CO2 Reactor - Yugang 鱼缸 Reactor

  • Thread starter Thread starter Yugang
  • Start date Start date
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Baby powder and a rubber mallet .... that's a great idea. I wish I knew that sooner.

I recently completed an upgraded version of my reactor. When I built my first one, I didn't use any unions or tubing so it is impossible to clean it.

Here's the new and improved version for my 90p tank.
IMG_20260508_070622722_AE.webp
 
Just an update for those interested :)
IMG_8840.webp

I am going to borrow a dremel/rubber mallet from my dad soon. I just thought I would (very loosely) dry fit it to get an idea of what I'm working with here. And man, I had no idea how big this was going to be for some reason haha. Once I use the dremel to sand down the lip in the socket of the reducer couplings, I will have a more accurate idea of how it's going to look/any changes I need to make. I'm really liking this even though I have no idea where it's going to be mounted because my "inside cabinet" idea is now out the window 😭

I'm definitely going to consider adding more points that will allow me to clean it out before I cement everything in place.

Also, I just realized I hadn't shared a picture of the tank this is going on, so that is attached as well.

IMG_8854.webp
 
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So everything fits now that I’ve sanded the sockets a bit. I just wanted to check with you knowledgeable folks before I cement, because now I’m realizing something.

Based on my understanding, the inlet side elbow orientation should be aimed downward to avoid splashing, and the outlet side elbow orientation is the one that determines the “power” of the reactor.

Photo from the yugang guide:

IMG_8866.webp

Given that, what should the "starting position" be of the outlet side, in other words, how should the outlet side be cemented in place? I have it at what I believe to be maximum power according to the guide in the photos below, and wanted to ask you guys if that's where I should cement it.

I’m going to use braided vinyl tubing to attach the stubs that poke out of either end of the reactor to the rest of the setup so that it will be capable of rotation, but I just wanted to get an idea of how it’s going to work.

Here are a couple of photos of how it looks dry-fitted:
IMG_8867.webpIMG_8868.webpIMG_8869.webpIMG_8870.webp
 
So everything fits now that I’ve sanded the sockets a bit. I just wanted to check with you knowledgeable folks before I cement, because now I’m realizing something.

Based on my understanding, the inlet side elbow orientation should be aimed downward to avoid splashing, and the outlet side elbow orientation is the one that determines the “power” of the reactor.
Correct, the height of the offset outlet determines the max bubble size (because any larger bubble than that causes the gasses to exit the reactor, instead of being dissolved into the water).

If you cement everything in place, you won't be able to adjust your reactor's power.

Instead, I'd recommend trying to fit some PVC Union Couplings on both sides of your reactor, which will still allow you to not only rotate the reactor while all parts are still cemented, but also allow you to dissasemble it for cleaning.

See @TRyan's reactor:
1778534439589.webp
If he included a 3rd Union Coupling where the arrow indicates, his reactor could be removable and rotatable. He doesn't need that, because his reactor has a fixed outlet height, so it wouldn't improve anything to be able to rotate. Instead, his PVC Union Couplings allow him to disassemble the reactor and clean it all if necessary.
 
If you cement everything in place, you won't be able to adjust your reactor's power.

Instead, I'd recommend trying to fit some PVC Union Couplings on both sides of your reactor, which will still allow you to not only rotate the reactor while all parts are still cemented, but also allow you to dissasemble it for cleaning.
Well, I had already planned on enabling myself to rotate the reactor, but I am planning on doing it the way I saw Yugang did it (braided vinyl hosing in the photo below). Though I can admit that those union couplings are much sexier and I would consider putting them on either side if I hadn't already bought the hosing and clamps.

I guess my question might be a little silly, but even in the example you have provided of @TRyan's reactor, he still had to cement elbows within each side (unless he didn't and I'm tripping). My question was more so, does the initial position that you cement the outlet elbow in matter? I plan on giving myself the ability to rotate the reactor regardless.

Sorry if I was a little confusing, and thank you so much for your advice.
1000048347.webp
 
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Well, I had already planned on enabling myself to rotate the reactor, but I am planning on doing it the way I saw Yugang did it (braided vinyl hosing in the photo below). Though I can admit that those union couplings are much sexier and I would consider putting them on either side if I hadn't already bought the hosing and clamps.

I guess my question might be a little silly, but even in the example you have provided of @TRyan's reactor, he still had to cement elbows within each side (unless he didn't and I'm tripping). My question was more so, does the initial position that you cement the outlet elbow in matter? I plan on giving myself the ability to rotate the reactor regardless.

Sorry if I was a little confusing, and thank you so much for your advice.
1000048347.webp
If I’m understanding you, you will use the clamp and braided hose to rotate (loosen clamp, rotate reactor, then retighten clamps). Your outlet won’t matter if it’s glued, but your inlet will. If everything is glued in place and you rotate the reactor piece - yes the outlet can be controlled but the inlet rotates with it. ie) You might be trying to decrease the power by rotating outlet upwards, but that will change the way the inlet below points too. Water may be noisy with that since elbow inlet purpose is to always aim down. So you’re right about questioning that.

Personally, I don’t have an elbow on my inlet. If you have a bypass, you can control the flow already and it’s silent in my experience - when you set it to low flow that is. (Slower flow is better anyways) Others can chime in on the elbow.

Ignore all this if you don’t plan on cementing your elbows in… but then I’m not sure how you’d even access them if you’re gluing the rest of the pieces…
 
If I’m understanding you, you will use the clamp and braided hose to rotate (loosen clamp, rotate reactor, then retighten clamps). Your outlet won’t matter if it’s glued, but your inlet will. If everything is glued in place and you rotate the reactor piece - yes the outlet can be controlled but the inlet rotates with it. ie) You might be trying to decrease the power by rotating outlet upwards, but that will change the way the inlet below points too. Water may be noisy with that since elbow inlet purpose is to always aim down. So you’re right about questioning that.
Yes, that’s exactly how I plan on rotating the reactor to adjust the power, and that’s exactly why I am concerned about rotating it after cementing both an inlet and outlet elbow in a static position—because the inlet would also be rotated thus potentially creating a noise problem.

I’m glad I’m not completely insane lmao. 😅

Personally, I don’t have an elbow on my inlet. If you have a bypass, you can control the flow already and it’s silent in my experience - when you set it to low flow that is. (Slower flow is better anyways) Others can chime in on the elbow.
Awesome. You have essentially put all my concerns to rest with this suggestion.

Now I wish I hadn’t sanded the other reducer coupling but I believe I should still be able to use it just fine.
Ignore all this if you don’t plan on cementing your elbows in… but then I’m not sure how you’d even access them if you’re gluing the rest of the pieces…
I’m 100% set on cementing the outlet elbow, I don’t know how else this build would be accomplished.

Following your suggestion, I probably won’t include an inlet elbow though for the sake of simplicity.

The only things not being cemented are those braded vinyl pieces on each side that will allow me to rotate the reactor, as well as any other areas of braided vinyl I might add into the circuit that would allow me to clean it easier. I’m not decided on that yet because it’s already way bigger than I thought.

Thank you so much for your input, nitro. 🤝
 

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