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If you have a spare head on a dosing pump, you can rig up something that tops up enough to kinda sorta function like a top off. You just have to tune how much to dose to offset evaporation.
So far doing good without return of the filamentous nightmare. Added some new plants with the recent stable parameters.
Added some Buce TC Brownie ghost 2011 from APF. Dennis warned me that it might not get the nice dark color with the TC, but let’s see.
My nemesis has been the Ludwigea Arcuata which failed to take off 3 times before (2x tc, 1x emersed) , trying it again now with the stable parameters. Removed much of the rotala tulunadensis and placed this in the center. Let’s see if it takes off.
Interesting to see how the Blyxa Japonica is an indicator plant for PAR. The newer leaves are now green with the lowered PAR around 50. Probably going to use this in future setups to say that I might be having too much light when the Blyxa turns red. Read it first from @Dennis Wong - How to grow Blyxa japonica
Finally, last but not the least, got to install the Rocco holder for the Chihiros auto doser. Thank you @Naturescapes_Rocco
Love them! Very sleek
Oh yes, once it get's going, it's definitely a grower. I've trimmed mine many times and even got to where it was time to pull the original stems and start with just new cuttings which, in fact, is what I just did again on my show tank. Some stems, after a number of trimmings, will start to put more growth into additional side stems and grow more full that vertical. I've never let mine grow so tall though that they flower. I should try that with the current stems.
S. repens has become one of my favorite plants and is doing exceptionally well, so I ended up replanting a few stems. After about a week, you can clearly see a color difference between the newly planted stems (white arrow) on the right and the older, established ones.
My hypothesis is that this is likely due to a lean water column, with S. repens relying more heavily on substrate nutrition. I’d expect the newly planted stems to develop deeper green leaves once a solid root system forms and nutrient uptake from the substrate increases.
You had me stumped. I was wondering why I hadn't seen SBXXXX post in awhile and then saw that user name was no longer listed. Looked up your journal and the light bulb clicked on. I'd just assumed Cincyscaper was a new member. I've been thinking of having my user name changed as well.
Ha! yah, wanted the same username across different platforms. Looks like ScapeCrunch would allow changing username every 2 years or so. I think have gotten used to many of the usual suspects posts that i think i might not have a hard time finding some of your posts if you changed the username.
Tank overall is doing well : good growth and no significant algae issues.
Amano shrimp: Started going after AR mini and Rotala Florida, so I ended up rehoming them to my LFS.
P. decannensis: Got quite unruly, so I removed the whole patch and replanted just a small portion. Maybe it has to do with the lean dosing or crowding but it branched extensively (see uprooted pic) and the lower portions did not always remain healthy. Definitely not a plant that can be managed like rotala blood red.
Lysimachia nummularia - Creeping Jenny : Added recently — curious to see how dense/busy it gets. Been impressed seeing it in Dennis Wong’s tanks.
L. arcuata: Filling in nicely and looking solid.
Rotala blood red + H’ra: Growing a bit too aggressively even with lean dosing — planning to phase them out.
Longer term, I’m thinking of replacing the faster stems with more stable plants (likely crypts), aiming for a look closer to George Farmer-style layouts.
Good observation. Yes, still at 30% on my Chihirios WRGB II 10th ed. Most of the newer leaves on the Blyxa seems to be greenish, and whenever i have to remove a leaf or two from the Blyxa it is usually the more orangish red ones, which i have assumed are the older leaves. This is a pic when on high PAR, at 150 or more (light at 60-70%), the blyxa was definitely more red.
That said, I have become skeptical as to whether the PAR is truly 50 or more, the MC carpet has been growing really compact and the HRA/Blood red have quite red undertones even closer to the substrate. The Blyxa's that i have seen on ADA websites have been purely green, maybe i need to wait longer, i am not sure.
In addition, the recent article by @BenB with the same light noted close to 150 at 50% (however with a tank that was shorter by 1.5 inch). So maybe will have to re-check PAR at some point.
100% - not too fast like rotala BR, not too slow like rotala florida, not too many branches like rotala tulunadensis, does'nt spread, not dull green and erect, pink undertones - one of the perfect plants in my mind.
Along with r.indica bonsai, Blyxa and AR mini are probably my most favourite and will likely use them repeatedly in any scapes. Lobelia cardinalis mini is a close one as well just don't have a lot of it. S.Repens is a close one as well, didn't realize how it expands breath wise as well, needs more control.
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