JayP
Valuable Member
Lookin good, but that's a lot of pipes for a 22g tank. 
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Journal 22 gallon long bookshelf
- Thread starter HardeeParty
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #262
Here’s something cool. Hygrophila triflora leaf tear undergoing dedifferentiation, becoming meristematic, and growing adventitious roots.
I want weekly updates on this tank lol
Love to see your resurgence, looks good!
- Thread starter
- #265
A really special one (for me) starting to emerge.
Echinodorus sp. ‘Soekarno’:
Hygrophila odora (I think?):
Diodia virginiana:
Hygrophila balsamica (I think?):
I’m now wondering if this is just pinninfidina now.
Sorry for the frequent posting. It’s been a long time since my tank was growing well.
I’ve been struggling with the light output. I really don’t want to wind up with an unmanageable algae outbreak. I don’t think I have another reset in me. Power output is 30% with the light about 8” from the water surface. Dialed back the flow on one of the canisters so they’re roughly equal strength. Still utilizing the inline diffuser and not sure if I want to introduce a reactor yet. I’d like to run it on a closed loop but the last thing I need is another set of lily pipes in there. Went so far as to install rim brackets so they’re as serviceable and neatly organized as possible.
Echinodorus sp. ‘Soekarno’:
Hygrophila odora (I think?):
Diodia virginiana:
Hygrophila balsamica (I think?):
I’m now wondering if this is just pinninfidina now.
Sorry for the frequent posting. It’s been a long time since my tank was growing well.
I’ve been struggling with the light output. I really don’t want to wind up with an unmanageable algae outbreak. I don’t think I have another reset in me. Power output is 30% with the light about 8” from the water surface. Dialed back the flow on one of the canisters so they’re roughly equal strength. Still utilizing the inline diffuser and not sure if I want to introduce a reactor yet. I’d like to run it on a closed loop but the last thing I need is another set of lily pipes in there. Went so far as to install rim brackets so they’re as serviceable and neatly organized as possible.
I’m with you with the algae woes, I’m in the ugly phase with my new tank and I’m struggling with all kinds. Decreased the light to 40%.
- Thread starter
- #267
Tank has been stable enough. Have been dealing with consistent green algae on the glass. Needs a cleaning every other day with the water change, regardless of light level. Considering what this tank has been plagued with some horrifying algae recently, I’ll take the green dust.
Plant growth has not been as explosive as I was expecting and I’m not sure why. Probably a combination of all new substrate and a majority of emersed plants going through their transition phase. I underestimated the power of a deep, mature substrate layer. Maintenance game has been on point though, which has helped. Raised my total power up to 48% and it seems to be accepting it.
Took the plunge and bought one of the generic co2 reactors ($22) because why not. I’ve never run one before and wanted a comparison when using it as intended (vertical) and then horizontal. Are these supposed to be filled entirely when operating or partially full? I filled it entirely and am letting the co2 pocket form below the lid. Between the vortex created by the outflow and the surface area it’s been working rather well. I do not have data via ph monitor or anything so I mostly just read my plants/tank. Plan is to run this for a few months and then swap it over to a horizontal à la @Naturescapes_Rocco style. I removed my inline diffuser and am running the co2 straight to the chamber, but I’m considering reinstalling it prior to the rector and having it mix the mist, and having whatever co2 gets stuck create a little surface area pocket up top to continue the gas exchange. Please feel free to chime in on my internal dialogue here.
Barely fit the cabinet with the angle fittings. Had to take the base off to clear. They come with a check valve and PU tubing, which is nice. Not a bad buy.
Individual plants taking shape. The Hygrophila odora and balsamica are pretty slow growing, surprisingly. I moved one of the Blyxa sp. ‘red’ plants from the nano to let it breathe.
The native Vesicularia vesicularis stretching its legs.
I know it’s really basic, but I love Rotala wallichii.
Hobby Persicaria sp. São Paulo showing color.
One of the garage tanks exploded with growth recently. It must have hit some critical biomass level and all the algae just melted away over a couple of days.
Resurrecting some of my long unused favorites. Rotala ‘Mini Gold’, Limnophila hippuridoides.
Pretty sweet plant I’ve been experimenting with again. Murdannia spirata. There’s not enough silver plants in the hobby.
Little Eriocaulon ravenelii survivor.
Spiranthes sp. seedlings.
North American native Vallisneria neotropicalis coloring up.
Plant growth has not been as explosive as I was expecting and I’m not sure why. Probably a combination of all new substrate and a majority of emersed plants going through their transition phase. I underestimated the power of a deep, mature substrate layer. Maintenance game has been on point though, which has helped. Raised my total power up to 48% and it seems to be accepting it.
Took the plunge and bought one of the generic co2 reactors ($22) because why not. I’ve never run one before and wanted a comparison when using it as intended (vertical) and then horizontal. Are these supposed to be filled entirely when operating or partially full? I filled it entirely and am letting the co2 pocket form below the lid. Between the vortex created by the outflow and the surface area it’s been working rather well. I do not have data via ph monitor or anything so I mostly just read my plants/tank. Plan is to run this for a few months and then swap it over to a horizontal à la @Naturescapes_Rocco style. I removed my inline diffuser and am running the co2 straight to the chamber, but I’m considering reinstalling it prior to the rector and having it mix the mist, and having whatever co2 gets stuck create a little surface area pocket up top to continue the gas exchange. Please feel free to chime in on my internal dialogue here.
Barely fit the cabinet with the angle fittings. Had to take the base off to clear. They come with a check valve and PU tubing, which is nice. Not a bad buy.
Individual plants taking shape. The Hygrophila odora and balsamica are pretty slow growing, surprisingly. I moved one of the Blyxa sp. ‘red’ plants from the nano to let it breathe.
The native Vesicularia vesicularis stretching its legs.
I know it’s really basic, but I love Rotala wallichii.
Hobby Persicaria sp. São Paulo showing color.
One of the garage tanks exploded with growth recently. It must have hit some critical biomass level and all the algae just melted away over a couple of days.
Resurrecting some of my long unused favorites. Rotala ‘Mini Gold’, Limnophila hippuridoides.
Pretty sweet plant I’ve been experimenting with again. Murdannia spirata. There’s not enough silver plants in the hobby.
Little Eriocaulon ravenelii survivor.
Spiranthes sp. seedlings.
North American native Vallisneria neotropicalis coloring up.
JayP
Valuable Member
I have one of those and one of the ARC vertical reactors. I used the ARC model on my first 90P tank and it worked just fine, with just a couple disadvantages over the Yugang style. First, it is still up to you and your co2 regulator to insure you don't gas your livestock, as this reactor has no "overflow mode" safeguard. Second, to one of your questions, yes, you should fill it completely and purge air, but over time, just like a horizontal reactor, a co2 pocket will form at the top. In the case of a vertical reactor though, that co2 pocket will result in a gurgling sound which can become annoying. The only way to mitigate it is to tee off to a gas purge line with valve and open the valve every now and then to purge the co2 pocket. Also, with this style reactor, it's better to have strong flow going into it rather than the more calm flow you want through a Yugang. because its that turbulence that helps break up and dissolve the co2. The only other disadvantage is that it takes up valuable floor space in the stand. It's easier to mount a horizontal reactor out of the way.
- Thread starter
- #269
Went ahead and bypassed the co2 input on the reactor itself and installed the inline diffuser back in the outflow path. I didn’t like the idea of a noisy reactor and it seems like it’s not going to be a problem. I have no livestock in the tank but I do plan on adding some in the near future. It’s not fair to the kids to have a big ass (relatively) fish tank without fish. They’re becoming increasingly interested in the tank as they grow up and I want to encourage in whatever capacity I can.
Some pretty plants from the shrimp tank for tax.
Some pretty plants from the shrimp tank for tax.
- Thread starter
- #270
Since the tank looks basically the same as it did yesterday, I’ll share the development of a few local aquatics I’ve been testing for aquarium suitability.
Murdannia spirata. Pretty prevalent in the lower southeast United States in wet areas. Very weedy. It’s not native, like most of the Commelinaceae family, albeit some notables (Commelina erecta, and a few Tradescantia sp.).
Submersed, it grows strictly erect, branching moderately with the clasping leaves emerging in this graceful alternating spiral spires. Color is a pale, almost matte green, accented by longitudinal textured stripes that run from leaf apex to node. The texture gives it an almost iridescent sheen, falling somewhere in the silver spectrum, reminiscent of some terrestrial orchids.
Not particularly difficult to grow, stays where its put. Tolerant of every temperature I’ve thrown at it, similar with co2 and nutrient levels. Not surprising, given its borderline invasive tendencies. It’s very well behaved underwater, and I hope to see it utilized in something meaningful.
These are not the greatest showcase photos, but they’re reasonably representative of what to expect. Will update periodically as the opportunities present.
Murdannia spirata. Pretty prevalent in the lower southeast United States in wet areas. Very weedy. It’s not native, like most of the Commelinaceae family, albeit some notables (Commelina erecta, and a few Tradescantia sp.).
Submersed, it grows strictly erect, branching moderately with the clasping leaves emerging in this graceful alternating spiral spires. Color is a pale, almost matte green, accented by longitudinal textured stripes that run from leaf apex to node. The texture gives it an almost iridescent sheen, falling somewhere in the silver spectrum, reminiscent of some terrestrial orchids.
Not particularly difficult to grow, stays where its put. Tolerant of every temperature I’ve thrown at it, similar with co2 and nutrient levels. Not surprising, given its borderline invasive tendencies. It’s very well behaved underwater, and I hope to see it utilized in something meaningful.
These are not the greatest showcase photos, but they’re reasonably representative of what to expect. Will update periodically as the opportunities present.
currently how many species are there in Murdannia genus that is submersible?
- Thread starter
- #272
Of what
Murdannia is in the Commelinaceae family, which contains a number of true aquatic hobby species. The established Murdannia in the trade are:
Murdannia is in the Commelinaceae family, which contains a number of true aquatic hobby species. The established Murdannia in the trade are:
- Murdannia keisak
- Murdannia engelsii
- Floscopa scandens
- Floscopa glomerata
- Cyanotis sp. (which I suspect is Cyanotis cristata)
- Thread starter
- #273
Alright so I wouldn’t trust the check valve supplied with the reactor. Came home to a blue drop checker and an obviously distressed tank. Diagnosed to the provided plastic check valve.
Removed, relocated the push connect check valve closer to the reactor to spot any future issue quicker and it seems to be working better than before. I need to assign some numbers to the injection rate/ph drop because the checker is now yellow and I plan on adding livestock soon. It is making a bit of noise, but with the door closed it’s minimal and no one in the house has mentioned it yet.
Side note, I love the little metering valve feature of the push connect fitting on the reactor body. It allows the port to be closed entirely so you don’t have to worry about leakage during maintenance.
View attachment My Movie 2-720p30.mov
Will let the plants grow out a bit and then top/replant the whole thing.
Some Spiranthes love for reading this far.
Removed, relocated the push connect check valve closer to the reactor to spot any future issue quicker and it seems to be working better than before. I need to assign some numbers to the injection rate/ph drop because the checker is now yellow and I plan on adding livestock soon. It is making a bit of noise, but with the door closed it’s minimal and no one in the house has mentioned it yet.
Side note, I love the little metering valve feature of the push connect fitting on the reactor body. It allows the port to be closed entirely so you don’t have to worry about leakage during maintenance.
View attachment My Movie 2-720p30.mov
Will let the plants grow out a bit and then top/replant the whole thing.
Some Spiranthes love for reading this far.
JayP
Valuable Member
Yeah, purchased some of those black/silver check valves early on from Amazon and they all failed rather quickly. It's been posted here before that the Mur-Lok check valves are rock solid. I didn't buy those because they're quite expensive for what they are, but I bought some clones of the Mur-Loks and they haven't failed me yet.
Push-To-Fit CO2 Check Valve
- Thread starter
- #275
The look of success. If you know you know.
Mur-lok Inline Check Valve 1/4" x 1/4" Push Connect
Mur-lok RO fittings are the only RO fittings that feature dual EPDM O-rings to ensure a straight leak free fit. We believe GA Murdock Mur-lok fittings to be the best so strongly that we use them virtually exclusively on each of our BulkReefSupply.com reverse osmosis units and BRS media reactors...
www.bulkreefsupply.com
- Thread starter
- #277
The blue plastic check valve was actually what came with the reactor, and the metal silver/black ones are what I typically use and run on almost all my tanks. I did purchase one of the Mur-Lok ones for the garage and it’s worked flawlessly. Will eventually change them all out.
- Thread starter
- #278
Also, fun fact.
Vallisneria neotropicalus changes color from green during a night cycle to orange/bronze during a day cycle. They’re green at night and when the lights turn on they slowly adjust color.
Cleaned up the tank a bit this morning.
And man I missed this plant.
Vallisneria neotropicalus changes color from green during a night cycle to orange/bronze during a day cycle. They’re green at night and when the lights turn on they slowly adjust color.
Cleaned up the tank a bit this morning.
And man I missed this plant.
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Limnophila hippuridoides?
