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Ive reorganized the order of my tanks so I can better keep track of them ie. Tank 2 moss tank is now tank 3. This helps in any confusion I had when tracking tanks they are in a sort of order now. Rather than taking time editing my old journal id rather create a new thread. Pics will be current (for the most part) as they are posted. I am not aquascaping. I am just farming.

I don't know where I saw it, but I read somewhere that the US imports its CO2. So people were reporting not being able to get it because it is stuck in the Straight of Hormuz. Who knew? Seems weird to me. Anyway, yeah, it's open now, but it might take awhile to get back to normal supply levels. You might want to check with your vendor if you're getting low.

Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @Chimera!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?

This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!

Planted 12/17/25

Goals and Past History:

This tank has been running since July 2024 and was originally inspired by George Farmer's home display tank.

I stocked mine mainly with swords and crypts along with Hyphessobrycon wadai (blueberry tetra), H. pulchripianis (lemon tetra), corydoras pygmaeus and Amano shrimp. These are all still in the tank today, sans a few jumpers I lost. Here's what it looked like before I changed goals to a high energy stem plant tank.



Things were humming along well with this tank until March 2025 when the tank suffered a major planaria outbreak. I wanted those vile critters gone, so I dosed to full cycles of No Planaria. This product worked on the planaria, but also severely damaged the beneficial bacteria colony. Instant algae fest which I battled with for the next 6 months.

Things cleared up in September 2025 and were going well. I hadn't been on Scapecrunch for many months, so I decided to get back into the forum and see how everyone's tanks were looking. I perused many a tank journal and after seeing everyone's gorgeous tanks, I decided I wanted some color and a change! I decided to give a high energy stem plant tank a go, so here we go!

This is my first journal and first real attempt at creating a tank that's full of different colors, contrasts and textures.

Equipment, specs, plants and ferts coming soon....

I have been sitting with hardscaping this UNS 90u tank (35.43”L x 22.”W x 22”H) for about 5 weeks. It's tall and deep and I have a perfect view of it from my office desk at the perfect height! The plan is for a high tech, heavily planted tank. I have a big load of different varieties of bucephalandra and anubias arriving in a few weeks that should go great on this hardscape and I am building my plan for the other plants. Here are my final 3 drafts on the hardscape. I am afraid the upper middle quadrant of the tank may have too much empty space being held with leggy stem plants growing towards the light. #1 and #3 seem to be the best choices, with #3 seeming the best. I need to finalize and get this tank filled with water! Any critiques from this experienced bunch?

Substrate: Gravel with root tabs
CO2: Yes
Light: Chirios WRGB2 Pro 90
Hardscapre: Dragon Stone and Driftwood
Filter: Oase Biomaster 2 600 (already fishless cycling on 20 gallon tub from home depot)


I appreciate the feedback.

I have good nutrient, CO2 and light levels, why do my plants still grow poorly​

Many hobbyists spend time perfecting tank parameters, nutrient, light and CO2 levels, thinking that this automatically translates into optimal plant growth. While these factors are important, there are many other factors that affect plant growth.



For example above we have two groups of Lysimachia parvifolia growing side by side. Both groups have access to the same parameters, CO2, light, nutrients, substrate. However, the group on the right is growing poorly with darker, melting leaves and the group on the left is growing super vibrant red, with hardly a blemish.

This is not due to some arcane reason such as water flow hitting one group but not the other. The reason here is much simpler - the group on the right has been trimmed back repeatedly and allowed to grow in the same spot for a few months, while the group on the left was uprooted in the last month, divided and replanted. Overcrowding, both above and below the substrate, resulted in poorer quality new leaves being produced for the group of the right. This poor growth happened despite great growth parameters, a ton of CO2 and nutrients in the water column etc.

Different plants have different tolerances for overcrowding and aging. Some plant species regenerate well from repeated trimming cycles, others need replanting more frequently. Having great growth conditions delay deterioration of old growth, but most plants grow more optimally with regular replanting to clear congested rootzones and old growth.

Trimming and replanting cycles​

The exact number of trimming cycles each species can regenerate from, and the time it takes for old growth and root zone congestion to take effect is different for each aquarium environment. Generally, if aquarium conditions are more spacious, and there is more substrate depth and stable growth conditions, plants can grow in one spot longer. Stressful growth conditions, poor nutrient/CO2 levels and even poor microbial balance accelerate deterioration of old growth.

Interestingly, on the opposite end, overcrowding and root zone congestion also happens more quickly in fast growth aquariums. Hobbyists that throw a ton of nutrients and CO2 at their plants run headfirst into the brick wall that is overcrowding. This can be countered somewhat by using a portion of slower growing plants in an aquarium. The slower growing plants can be worked less often, while the fast growers are on a more regular replanting cycle.

Many aquascapers avoid stem plants because they require much more frequent replanting to grow well. Species such as Anubias, Bucephalandra and Cryptocoryne species on the other hand, have extremely long replanting cycles, and can grow for years without needing to be uprooted.



In this stem plant heavy aquascape that is around 7 months old, every single plant cluster has been replanted at least once. A sample of the replanting cycle for each species:

• Rotala blood red SG - every 4 months
• Rotala macrandra mini type 4 - every month
• Lysimachia parvifolia - every 2-3 months
• Xyris difformis - every 5-6 months
• Elatine triandra - every month
• Rotala florida - every 3-4 months
• Staurogyne purple - every 5 months

Uprooting, cleaning, replanting:​

To refresh stem plant bushes, we will replant the fresh tops of the plants, while discarding the older bottom portions.

The first step is to uproot the entire stem plant bush. To control the mess when pulling up the soil, we recommend using a water siphon to vacuum the area when pulling up plants. The siphon should be held very close to the point where the plant is being pulled up to catch the soil debris.

We will try to remove as much of the old root system as possible and also remove any organic debris that has accumulated in the area. While organic debris contributes small amounts of nutrients through decomposition, a build-up of organic debris will interfere with root formation for more delicate plants and will also trigger algae. To stir up the organic debris, we use a turkey baster to spray jets of water onto the substrate while vacuuming with a siphon. The aquasoil should look clean before we start replanting.


The next step is to sort the uprooted stems and select only the healthiest heads for replanting. (A) is a middle portion and already has several branches. It is a poor choice as it will give rise to very uneven growth. (B) is a weak cutting- observe how thin the stem is, and the lack of colour. If replanted, it has a lower chance of success. (C) is ideal. A thick, singular healthy top with healthy new leaves.

Enriching the substrate with new aquasoil​

When plants are uprooted, we can take the chance to enrich the substrate. There are two main ways to replenish depleted aqua soils. The first is to use nitrogen-rich root tabs. The second is to add fresh ammonia-rich aquasoil periodically. A good rate is adding 1% of new ammonia-rich aquasoil per month. For example, if you have 30kg of aquasoil in an aquarium, adding around 300 grams per month will work well. You can add new aquasoil during plant replanting cycles. Simply remove a portion of old aquasoil with a water siphon or spoon, then add and mix in the new aquasoil. This method may be cheaper than using root tabs in the long run



Replanting entire planted aquariums regularly is not feasible for most aquarists. So having an aquascape consisting solely of fast growing stem plants can be a nightmare when overcrowding and age sets in. Aquarists should plant a mix of slower growing species and species that do not need frequent trimming/replanting. Then the fast growing bunches can be replanted on a rotation basis - only one species is replanted during each weekly water change for example.Replanting work requires skill and dexterity. It is often difficult for beginners to manage, until some experience is gained. It becomes much easier with practice and time.

In this aquarium, Rotala florida, Xyris difformis, Syngonanthus species are all plants that can grow for months without replanting.



With consistent maintenance, aqua soils do not need to be replaced. The aqua soil in this aquarium is 1.5 years old APT Feast. Regular enrichment and clearing of detritus allows the substrate to perform like new. By renewing plant growth continually through replanting, and enrichment, planted aquariums also become more algae resistant.

This article is a slightly condensed version as I know folks don't like to be redirected, the full article can be found here:
Good parameters, Good CO2, Good light, Poor plant growth?

Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @Gabi!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?

Era of AI slop is truly upon us. Firstly, no one holds the Oxyguard analyzer's probe as it takes 15-20mins to get a reading.
Size of the box is wrong and no shadows below the box, caps missing and a strap that goes nowhere. Aquarium looks fake as well. Real pic below for comparison.

Tried to open the app to change a setting. Goes to a login screen. Checked Chihiros support, and it seems to be an issue with the latest version of the app. The issue appears to be widespread.

Discussion on the Chihiros site.