Welcome to ScapeCrunch

We are ScapeCrunch, the place where planted aquarium hobbyists come to build relationships and support each other. When you're tired of doom scrolling, you've found your home here.

Social Feed

Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
Last reply · posted in New to Planted Aquariums? Post Here

"Why are my aquarium plants melting?"


Why are my aquarium plants melting?
This is one of the most common questions that someone new to aquarium plants will ask. They buy plants at a local fish store and get some advice that isn't totally correct, or, at least doesn't provide all the information that's needed.

If you're lucky and have a decent LFS, the plant came with some sort of instructions from the grower. If you're like most of us in the USA, you got a plant in a bag with some water in it. Hopefully, the person who sold you the plant also gave you some instructions on how to keep it but they probably didn't tell you what to expect. So, here you are, reading this article on the Internet hoping to get some answers and, more importantly, some help.

Well, you came to the right place. This online community is full of people helping each other to learn to grow beautiful, healthy aquarium plants that don't melt (most of the time!). This article will give you some grounding that you'll need BUT the best advice I can give you is to 1) head over to the Meet and Greet forum and make a post saying "Hi" and 2) don't be shy about asking for specific help. It is critical that you get used to the idea that you don't have to figure this all out by yourself. There are many of us who are more than happy to help you avoid all of the costly mistakes we've made in the past and save some poor plants in the process. OK? Deal?

OK! Let's get some fundamental understanding as to "why are my aquarium plants melting?".

The fundamentals of aquarium plants and why they melt​

Honestly, you probably already know this. All plants, like us, are alive and need some basic items to continue living. Food and water being the most important to you and me, and it's the same for your aquarium plants. The water part is pretty easy and most people get this right. If it's an "aquarium plant", then you will likely be keeping the plant inside your aquarium under water. This eliminates your need for watering the plant. Therefore, unlike many terrestrial plants, water isn't the reason why your plants are melting.

Your aquarium plants are melting because of one of three things:
  1. They are not true aquarium plants (yes, fish stores do sell terrestrial plants as aquarium plants. Sadly);
  2. They are transitioning from growing in air to growing in water; or
  3. The environment you have them in isn't meeting their needs.
Let's cover each of these to get you a better understanding and then we can take it from there based on what the issue is.

1. They are not true aquarium plants​

Sadly, there are fish stores, both big box and local, that knowingly or unknowingly sell non-aquatic plants to unsuspecting, budding aquatic gardeners. Why remains a mystery to me but it's probably a little bit of ignorance and greed. The bottom line is that if your plant is not designed by nature to be underwater 100% of the time, it will die. Just like you and me, if we were underwater 100% of the time.

You may be asking, "Well, how do I know if my plant is an aquarium plant or a non-aquatic?" Well, that's a great question! You either have to identify it on an online site like the now-defunct PlantGeek database of non-aquatic plants, post a picture of it here and ask, or wait and see if it lives if you try the things I will recommend below.

To avoid this uncertainty from happening again, it is up to you to do some research and intentionally choose the plants you are going to purchase. Bonus points if you buy them from local hobbyists or from reputable stores, be they online or brick and mortar. Doing so means you know the plant is intended for your aquarium and, hopefully, how to give it what it needs to grow well for you.

2. They are transitioning from growing in air to growing in water​

patchwork-of-growing-plants.jpgMany aquarium plants are commercially grown emersed. They are grown in small pots with rock wool instead of soil. This is wonderful if you're the grower because it allows for very controlled growing conditions and the plant stems/leaves grow hardy and strong.

These aerial leaves are specifically made by the plant to get oxygen and CO2 from the air. Most of the nutrients (food) they need is pulled from the roots that are suspended in a stream of nutrient-filled water.

These aerial leaves are also designed to photosynthesize out of water. Either the sun (as can be seen in the image to the left) or growing lights are commonly used to provide the energy the plants need for photosynthesis. And, as you remember from school, photosynthesis is one of the ways that plants take light and convert it to food for themselves. Coupled with what they are taking up via their root system, the plant is getting everything it needs.

Amazing what nature does. An aquarium plant, that is designed to live underwater, can be grown outside of water. The term, "nature finds a way", is so true. Humbling.

But enough about that. I mentioned "what an aquarium plant needs to grow well". What is that?

Great question! In a very basic sense, your plant needs water, light, carbon dioxide and nutrients to survive and grow. It gets all of this mainly via its leaves/stems and its root system. And, as we just learned above, in the grower-favored emersed setup, it's getting all of that. The difference with your aquarium is that in your case, the plant needs to get that while being underwater.

So, a plant that was initially grown in the air (like the picture above) has to change (or transition) how it it getting some of the things it needs. Remember, it built leaves that are adapted to get oxygen and carbon dioxide from the air, not water. These leaves were also adapted to getting light without a column of water in between them and the light source. It now has to change all of that so that it can adapt to life underwater in your aquarium.

Of course! It does this by creating new "submersed" leaves that are going to work better underwater and it "drops" the old aerial leaves that are no longer needed. This dropping may be the melting you're seeing. It's just your very smart plant adapting to life underwater in your aquarium. Nature is finding a way.

So what should you do, be patient and research. Depending on the plant and your aquarium conditions, the transition may take a couple of weeks to a month.

I would recommend that you post a picture of your plant(s) here on ScapeCrunch and see if you can get some help from our members to identify the plant you have. They will then be happy to tell you want the plants needs from you to grow healthy. Of course, you can go the Google route and get information. Perhaps you do both. However, as I mentioned at the beginning, there is no comparison to asking other human beings with more experience for help. Don't be shy. You're not nothing anyone. We are here to help.

What happens if you know the plant is a true aquarium plant AND you know it transitioned (or was grown underwater to begin with) and it's still melting?

3. The environment you have them in isn't meeting their needs.​

If you've gotten to this part because the other two don't apply to you, then you're likely not meeting the needs of the plant. It may be that you were given a plant that is considered difficult to grow or that has specific growing conditions that your aquarium doesn't have. There are expert-only aquarium plants you should stay away from at the beginning. Again, post a picture of your plant here on ScapeCrunch and we will be happy to help you identify it and share with you its growing requirements.

That being said, let's make sure your aquarium is set up for aquarium plant success.

81sa0Tv0ZmL._AC_SL1500_.jpgLet's be honest. The aquarium to the left is not a great place for aquarium plant success. These are plastic plants, by the way. Looks nice. Your kids (or you) may love it and Buffy the Betta may be happy as a clam in it. Your aquarium plants won't be.

If this is your aquarium, we have a lot of work to do. If you're further along than this, congratulations! You're well ahead of the game.

In any event, what we need to begin to focus on is providing your aquarium plants with an environment that will encourage them to grow. Most aquarium plants are resilient and hardy in spite of your recent melting experience. Give them what they need, more or less, and they will do just fine, especially the more common species.

What is great news is that it doesn't have to be expensive. You can have a wonderful, low-cost aquarium full of healthy, beautiful aquarium plants.

Here's a wonderful example of what we call a "low-tech" aquascape that you can learn to maintain and show off to your spouse and friends.
tumblr_nyyhg3LL421s3c1oao1_1280.jpg

Here are the things you will need:
  1. Pick the right plants that will do well in an environment like yours. How? Ask here for help picking low-tech plants.
  2. Get yourself a good quality, full spectrum fertilizer made specifically for aquarium plants. There are many good commercial options today. Want recommendations? Ask here at ScapeCrunch. Follow the instructions on how to use it.
  3. Get yourself a pH and hardness kit(s) and test your water. Most plants prefer soft water with a pH of 7 or below. Of course, there are exceptions and if you're keeping hard water fish with a higher pH, just pick plants designed for that environment.
  4. Get full spectrum lighting to provide your aquarium plants with the light they need. You don't need to go out an buy a new light fixture. Just ask here if they light you're using is enough for the plants you have or are planning to have. It may be just fine!
That is all there is to it, folks! This doesn't have to be rocket science, you don't need a green thumb (should it be wet green thumb?) nor thousands of dollars. In my opinion, the biggest hurdle you have to overcome is to be OK asking for help from people who have been where you are and now have the knowledge and willingness to help.

Yes, of course, there is a LOT more to this than what I've described above. These are the basics of the basics and intended just to give you some understanding and a sense of "everything will be alright". Please believe me that your aquarium can be filled with beautiful, healthy aquarium plants that you and your fish will absolutely love! It just takes patience and a willingness to engage and learn.

ScapeCrunch was created and is run by passionate planted aquarium hobbyists. The mission is to help newcomers to the planted aquarium hobby get past questions like "why are my aquarium plants melting" and get to truly enjoying this wonderful hobby that teaches SO much about the beauty of nature and all it's wonders. Please lean into this community by asking questions and contributing your part. We will all be better for it.

Wishing you much success in your journey,

Art
7 Replies · 3197 views
  • Like
Reactions: Cheri and GreggZ
JayP
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Journals
So I've had this UNS 30C going for just over a month now and I understand why they say bigger tanks are easier. This has been a bit of a struggle. It was just my 2nd aquarium and was intended to be something simple and easy to care for. Thought I'd finally create a journal for it and chronical it's journey from the little nano that tried to hopefully, a shrimp paradise.
UNS 30C DIY Cabinet.webp

Tank: UNS 30C with a DIY stand.
Light: ONF Flat Nano
Original Filter: Oase Filtosmart 100 Thermo
Current Filter: Oase Biocompact 25
CO2: Fzone regulator on a Paintball CO2 tank. In-tank diffuser.
Substrate: UNS Controsoil (Fine) and ADA La Plata sand
Hardscape: Lava rock and unknown driftwood (probably spiderwood)
Testing out a cheap stainless steel skimmer I purchased off AliExpress

Plants
Multiple types of Anubias and Bucephalandra
Mini Bolbitis
AR mini (just added)
Staurogyne Repens (just added)
Pogostemon Helferi "Downoi" (just added)

Fauna
Sunkist Orange Shrimp
Planned on Chili Rasbora but that didn't go so well, so this will be a dedicated shrimp tank.

The Nano Struggle.webp

The first mistake I made with this was to plant immediately, rather than do a dark start as I did with my first scape. As you can still see in the current photo, I had a lot of Buce melt as a result of the high initial ammonia. I was hoping I would see more of a rebound by now but it's been a struggle. I also had different stem plants in the background and they struggled as well, even though they were already submersed grown plants. The current background plants were just placed in the last week and I've loaded the substrate up with more root tabs. They should be more durable but I may want to add something that gets a little taller. I also plan to fill in the melted Buce and some other bare areas with some additional Buce and Anubias. I'm dealing with some algae on the wood and the Anubias Nana Pinto, but nothing too serious.

I hoped that this would be home to Sunkist Orange shrimp and Chili Rasboras. Even though it's only 7 gallons, from previous experience with the Rasboras, I thought of school of 8 to 10 would be fine. I started with 8, but within 2 days, 5 decided to leave the tank (even with a lid covering 3/4 of the top). General water parameters were good, but I admit, CO2 may have been a little high. I moved the remaining Chilis to my larger tank were they are now happy and content. Hopefully the shrimp will begin breeding soon and I'll have plenty of tiny creatures to watch.

UNS 30C Equipment Reset.webp

I generally don't like seeing equipment in the tank, so I started with a canister filter. Even adjusting valves to reduce flow, it was still too much and may even have been a contributing factor in the Chilis jumping out. Just this past weekend when replanting the background, I switched over to this tiny Oase Biocompact filter. It's only got a little course sponge wrapping a carbon sponge so the jury is still out on if it will provide enough filtration, but I imagine it will be fine with only plants and shrimp. I also added the in-tank heater (house can be a little cool in the winter) and switched from the inline CO2 diffuser to an in-tank diffuser. The skimmer is an experiment. I bought it on AliExpress to see how well it worked. My impression so far: Positive = I like the look and size, it seems to do a good job skimming, at least on this small tank. Negative = High pitched whine while running. I wouldn't run it all the time due to the sound, but if controlled to only run occasionally, it may work out well as long as it holds up.

I'll post updates as I add more plants and things mature.
24 Replies · 2602 views
Noahspapa
Supporting I Donated 2026
Last reply · posted in Journals
Sharing my first 120P aquarium and hoping to obtain feedback and guidance as it progresses.

I purchased the ADA 120P tank, AFA stand, mat and ADA substrate set from AFA in San Francisco. The set cost approx $2,000 including shipping. The set arrived as a set of boxes on a pallet which was loaded into my garage by a local delivery service using a small fork lift. The delivery process took approximately 4 weeks.

The substrate set included one large bag of ADA power sand, the three ADA additives - bacter 100, tourmaline and super clear, five bags of Amazonia 2 regular, and two bags of Amazonia 2 powder.

The tank is 120 x 50 x 50 cm, so roughly 48” x 20” x 20” and holds approximately 80 gallons.

All items arrived in excellent condition. Helpers and I moved the items to the basement. The stand was easy to put together. Plywood based. Sturdy. I drilled some additional 4” holes in the left side and rear panels for access. I put down the mat, and added the tank.

I chose a chihiros 1200 wrgb2 pro light. I hung an IKEA adjustable rod holder over the tank to suspend the light from which has been working out well for my tanks.

For other mechanicals: these have evolved since initial setup
  • Oase BIomaseter 2 thermo 350 canister filter loaded up with seachem matrix, seachem matrix carbon and seachem purigen.
  • Cuboid aquatics UV disinfection unit.
  • Oase Biomaster 2 850 canister filter loaded up similar to 350 and with all pre filter stuff (outer housing, center pipe, pads) removed
  • Netlea pre filter
  • ARC small acrylic yugang horizontal reactor
  • five pound co2 tank
  • CO2 Art pro CO2 regulator
  • soft, gray silicone 16/22 hosing used throughout
  • two sets of quick disconnects for the hosing
  • Jardli glass Lily pipe outlets
  • Hydra aquatics stainless steel inflow with skimmer
  • some inexpensive motion sensing led panels for light within the cabinet
  • two kasa smart plug strips

I’ve attempted to include some photos here but they don’t seem to be being pulled in.


IMG_7604.webpIMG_7605.webpIMG_7606.webpIMG_7607.webpIMG_7608.webpIMG_7609.webp

The hardscape for the tank was selected collaboratively with the team at cuboid aquatics in Pipersville, PA. I became aware they carried a wide range of hardscape including the WIO product line and they were within driving distance (6 hours), so I drove down and spent the next day with them. They were well stocked and were incredible people! Their lead designer Maddie lead the effort. The design uses large WIO black venom and jade rocks to support a hefty set of Galapagos and WIO Centurian wood. I packed up the hardscape, brought it home and put together the current design. I chose the larger Galapagos pieces as I liked the dark highly contoured lines.

The design is a triangular layout as the tank will be viewed from the right side as well as the front and we wanted to keep that right side looking similar to the front.

The left side and rear are filled with the ADA substrate set. In two areas just in front of hardscape there are areas of substrate set where I intend to plant dwarf lilies and crypt spiralis tiger. The remainder of the front and right side uses WIO Everglades riverbed which includes tan sand, pebbles, twigs, leaves, and cones. I also added WIO black venom and jade pebbles and twigs.

My friend and I primarily used seachem epoxy to epoxy the hardscape together. It was easy to use. It does put off quite an odor. We also used a glue product call R6000 which seems to have worked out quite well. The tank has been in water for two weeks now. Some of the putty connected to wood has come loose. Best I can tell the R6000 joints are holding.



This is the current layout and you can see there is the normal whiteish “stuff” growing on some of the driftwood.

My friend and I filled the tank and started up the equipment to check for leaks and flow. We encountered a few small issues that were quickly resolved.

In 1-2 hours it was obvious there were loads of tannins in the water. I had read an article on cycling on 2hr that suggested turning off the equipment, letting the hardscape soak for 48 hours, draining, refilling and restarting, so this is what I did.

Once I had that new water……

Oh, water here comes from RO water normally remineralized with APT Sky up to a TDS of 100-120, however I had read that it’s best to make sure.KH is present to support the cycling process so this water was remineralized with APT Sky plus to a KH of 2-3.

To help boost the cycling process I started with Microbe-lift gel filter inoculation in both canisters, and Microbe-lift Nite-out and special blend products.

Water tests show that two weeks in I have high ammonia and nitrite. Tank is running with no light.

I did start up the co2 reactor as I’ve never used the horizontal yugang reactor and wanted to see what sort of co2 levels I could reach. I measured 40-50 ppm with the Hanna test set which is great and turned the co2 back off for now.

I will continue to monitor ammonia and nitrite near daily.

In the mean time I will be working on a planting plan.

Please get back to me with any comments, suggestions for sustainability, improvement, etc.
42 Replies · 4416 views
Kwyet
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Plantopedia
IMG_7512.webp
CO2 injected 1.4 pH drop (50 ppm per Hanna test)
Light 50-60 par at substrate
PPS-pro ferts for high tech tanks
50% water change weekly
8 dgH
0-1 dkH
8 Replies · 787 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
· posted in Meet & Greet Forum

Hello  Welcome, lew

Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @lew!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
0 Replies · 8 views
Mr. Silly Goose
I Donated 2026
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion

Emergency  Drywall in aquarium

Had a tree fall on the house last night and there's a chunk of drywall that ended up in the tank. Currently triage has electrical service restoration above addressing the tank. I can't easily get it out because there's debris on the lid (and the whole kitchen). What are the thoughts? I can likely get it siphoned out in a couple hours (been about 5 hours since the tree fell). Unsure I'll be able to do a full water change as the water won't be heated. Generator and battery backups will be started after tree cleanup. The tank itself is on a 2kwh battery, so full run time is 12ish hours.

Trying not to freak out and hope the fish will be okay.

Thanks!
7 Replies · 102 views
artandsoul
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
Sounds like a joke question but for reasons unknown I cant get moss to grow period, Got a huge baseball of moss for free from shrimp breeder. I put some in 5g shrimp tank, low light no heater around 74 its dead. 3 other tanks 76 degree low to medium light its all dead or looks dead its grey color I'd say it's dead. water parms are pretty spot on no big shifts or other plants would have issues imo.

what do I need to do to grow java moss 😂? grew it for years no issues would take over now im lost! I can grow anything but moss?
3 Replies · 104 views
S
Last reply · posted in Journals
Both tanks contain a lot of bucephalandra stems I have recently melted by feeding my caridina tanks with mulberry leaves. I have no idea what the heck happened but all buces melted in those tanks heavily over 3 days with every other plant + shrimp being fine. Don't wanna risk the plants dying so I'm throwing them back into high tech for a few months to recover.

Set Up:
Both tanks uses heavy co2 misting
Horticulture LED lights (dimmed, so probably 25-30 watts?)
Will steadily increase light weekly if I see no issues, max is 40 watts.
Dual sponge filters. (Air bubbles help prevent co2 gassing, also seems to really help stabilize tank, so less algae)
1 Internal filter with an atomizer for misting.

Regime:
All tanks get a 30-50% water change, twice per week.
Micros dosed daily (unless I forget, which happens fairly often.)
Macros Front Loaded and only in new incoming water.

6 Gallon bucket water change:
~350tds (Using seachem equilibrium remineralizer)
~22ppm KNO3, using KNO3 + KH2PO4
~40-50 ppm Potassium due to remineralizer
~4-5GH

Buce Lottery Colors
Lots of buces, various names, collected over the years. A lot of them were ultra rare and I cannot buy them anymore. Most of the ultra rare I probably accidentally killed from trying to grow them in a "no filter, no co2" style tank. Either way, not much color in low tech, will see what lottery colors we pull once they get going with better colors in higher lights + co2.

Both tanks are planted tightly front to back with bucephalandra. Kinda hard to see it all with moss blocking the way, but my view will be your view.

Random Mosses
Some mosses I've collected as well, honestly I grow a lot of them free floating so they kinda look the same. We will find out how they look after I attach them to something.

15 Gallon, very aged sand + pebble tank.
Image_20260415221525_401_1.webp
20 Gallon long, aged aquasoil I pulled from an existing caridina tank.
Image_20260415221528_402_1.webp

Wanted to take some macro shots, but does anyone know how to take an angle show on the glass without distortion? I have a DSLR long tube lens that works under water but color rendition is really bad.

Why so much moss?
Mostly to help stabilize the tank and to reduce light bleed. Less surface for algae to grow.
20 Replies · 1491 views
  • Like
Reactions: Koan
NC AL
Last reply · posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
I have been inspired by everyone’s awesome planted fish bowls. I have been researching and toying around with the idea of setting one up. I was working on building a nano frag tank set up for my saltwater side and got the itch to try something. So I started building the pedestal for a fish bowl. Now down the rabbit hole, I am bending a piece of trim to wrap my 12” platform.

IMG_2189.webp

IMG_2191.webp

IMG_2187.webp

IMG_2190.webp
1 Replies · 118 views
Gwad
· posted in Lounge
I completed my first AGA contest photos for the Dutch category today!

What a PITA!!! 😜 It took me a lot longer than I thought it would. Removing the tank equipment, cleaning the resulting mess, figuring out how to use a bunch of random cardboard to keep the light bleed off the camera...it was like a 4.5 hour affair for me in my cramped, sweaty office.

20260920_153710~2.webp

The other challenge was keeping the water clear with the filters off. Every time I thought I was ready to shoot I'd find one more leaf or stray piece of root hanging out somewhere on the surface or stuck in the moss or something. It's a lot more noticeable when the water is stagnant.

I'm glad to be done. I'm about 75% happy with how my tank turned out. Had a couple issues with plant selections but I think I made it work OK for my first entry. I'm really excited to see everyone else's tanks (and to finally start seeing them discussed on the forums). Good luck everyone!
0 Replies · 36 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
Last reply · posted in Media of the Month Forum
The theme for this month's contest is: Algae Patina
patina.webp

This one is going to be tough but I hope some of you take up the challenge. There is a fine line between algae on an object that makes it look natural and old (patina) and algae on an object that simply makes it look unkept and dirty.

Who can strike that balance best??

Please take a picture of algae patina in your aquarium. Be as artistic and creative as you like.

The rules:
  • Submissions are allowed between September 11 and September 23.
  • Voting will start on September 23 at 12:01 am Eastern time.
  • Voting will end on September 30 at 11:30 pm Eastern time.
The prize:

A $25 store credit from BurrAqua thanks to @Burr740!

Good luck!
3 Replies · 256 views
Back
Top