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Expanding on the conversation from the "What did you do...today" thread on Wabi-Kusa, it was suggested that we start a new thread.
There are many different views on what Wabi-Kusa is and what it's become. After reading many articles, posts, etc, watching videos by dozens of different creators. I settled on what I felt was a simple method that, to me, felt its Wabi-Kusa in its most basic form.
My first attempt is in its current state.
This video was my main tutorial.
I wanted to experiment with Wabi-Kusa to add more greenery to my home. They are fabulous little living pops of light and color that can be placed around the house. I also wanted to use only the materials and plants on hand to start, except for a spool of green nylon or polyester thread. Cotton will degrade over time.
It took a bit to get the hang of wrapping a ball of "dirt" into an actual object. The ball is moistened coir with a center of 3-5mm lava rock. One can use pebbles, too. I don't know what role the rocks play in my case. I'm using RO water. Initially, the plant stems were wrapped on the top side of the ball with green thread. Wrapped some Christmas moss on the sides, then using emersed trimmings of Rotala super red and Kedagang Red Buce*. I started it in a quart deli cup. with a lid and some holes for ventilation. Placed it in a south-facing windowsill and turned it every day. Much to my delight, it started growing. Then I got a bit fancy and ordered a Chihiros Glass Pot, AquaWorx SOL LED, and Adjustable Stand. Found a dish of Hydrocotyle tripartita “mini” tissue culture at the LFS, plopped some of that in the middle, and it's starting to spread.
Maintenance is easy. Once a week, I pull the ball out, rinse the rocks, and clean the glass. Refresh with RO water, add one drop of APT 3, and spray twice a week with APT Dew.
Mistakes I've made. Not using enough moss on the sides. Flipping the lid on the Glass Pot, that allowed the humidity to escape, drying the tips of the Rotala.
For mold control, I'm using springtails.
Workstation for ball creation.
Made another dozen balls yesterday. I'm thinking of gifting some grown-out balls as gifts this season. Until I plant them, they are in the fridge.
Do you Wabi-Kusa? Please post about yours in the thread, and let us learn more about this together.
* I have an emersed Buce experiment going.
There are many different views on what Wabi-Kusa is and what it's become. After reading many articles, posts, etc, watching videos by dozens of different creators. I settled on what I felt was a simple method that, to me, felt its Wabi-Kusa in its most basic form.
My first attempt is in its current state.
This video was my main tutorial.
I wanted to experiment with Wabi-Kusa to add more greenery to my home. They are fabulous little living pops of light and color that can be placed around the house. I also wanted to use only the materials and plants on hand to start, except for a spool of green nylon or polyester thread. Cotton will degrade over time.
It took a bit to get the hang of wrapping a ball of "dirt" into an actual object. The ball is moistened coir with a center of 3-5mm lava rock. One can use pebbles, too. I don't know what role the rocks play in my case. I'm using RO water. Initially, the plant stems were wrapped on the top side of the ball with green thread. Wrapped some Christmas moss on the sides, then using emersed trimmings of Rotala super red and Kedagang Red Buce*. I started it in a quart deli cup. with a lid and some holes for ventilation. Placed it in a south-facing windowsill and turned it every day. Much to my delight, it started growing. Then I got a bit fancy and ordered a Chihiros Glass Pot, AquaWorx SOL LED, and Adjustable Stand. Found a dish of Hydrocotyle tripartita “mini” tissue culture at the LFS, plopped some of that in the middle, and it's starting to spread.
Maintenance is easy. Once a week, I pull the ball out, rinse the rocks, and clean the glass. Refresh with RO water, add one drop of APT 3, and spray twice a week with APT Dew.
Mistakes I've made. Not using enough moss on the sides. Flipping the lid on the Glass Pot, that allowed the humidity to escape, drying the tips of the Rotala.
For mold control, I'm using springtails.
Workstation for ball creation.
Made another dozen balls yesterday. I'm thinking of gifting some grown-out balls as gifts this season. Until I plant them, they are in the fridge.
Do you Wabi-Kusa? Please post about yours in the thread, and let us learn more about this together.
* I have an emersed Buce experiment going.
10 replies
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894 views
Hi all
My Cambomba sometimes develops these roots from the nodes.
Rotala H'ra does it too, but not as aggressively as the Cambomba.
Any ideas why this happens?
My Cambomba sometimes develops these roots from the nodes.
Rotala H'ra does it too, but not as aggressively as the Cambomba.
Any ideas why this happens?
13 replies
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162 views
Bought a bag off Amazon. $15 for like 400ml. 2 big bags worth.
Added it to tank.
Tds spiking everyday.
From 150 to 400 tds after a week.
Thought substrate was just leeching.
I eventually just soaked the bag in RO water for a few days until the tds stopped spiking so much. Maybe I should just soak it in bleach first before use?
Added it to tank.
Tds spiking everyday.
From 150 to 400 tds after a week.
Thought substrate was just leeching.
I eventually just soaked the bag in RO water for a few days until the tds stopped spiking so much. Maybe I should just soak it in bleach first before use?
5 replies
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53 views
Journal UNS 60S Pond Scape
After a bit of hiatus from the hobby, I'm jumping back in with a high-tech UNS 60S as a pond type scape. Normally one would have a nice set of images next with the initial setup. Currently mine is an empty tank and shelves of parts and equipment. I'm determined to take it slow, research each bit and have everything on hand before adding water.
I've found the in the past ~20 years there has been quite a lot of change in the hobby. So many more products available, my last high-tech tanks was T5's and Metal Halides. My have things changed.
My Plan
Lighting
Chihiros WRGB II Pro 60
Chihiros WRGB II Pro 60 Light Shade /w Mirror
Chihiros WRBG II Pro LED Light Hanging Kit
Week Aqua Arm Stand /Black (L Stand)
Oase Shutoff Valve 16/22 mm - x 2
FZone 3M Grey Tubing 16/22 mm
Stainless Steel 16/22 to 12/16 reducer
FZone 3M Grey Tubing 12/16 mm
FZone Mini Lily Pipes w/ Skimmer
I found that to use Lily pipes that fit this tank size, I'll need to use something small, hence the reduction in tubing size.
CO2 Art Dual Stage Regulator /w Bubble Counter and Solenoid
FZone CO2 Proof Line
CO2 Check Valve
NilocG CO2 Drop Checker /w Solution
Timer
Qanvee M2 Inline CO2 Diffuser
Lucked out with CO2, found someone on Facebook Marketplace selling 2 complete CO2 systems. With full tanks, for less than the price of a new CO2 Art Regulator. Snapped them both up.
Wood - Dragon Wood
Substrate
APT S - Base layer
UNS ControBase 2L
APT Jazz Caps
UNS ControSoil Black Fine 10L
UNS Mojave Extra Fine 8L- Open areas
UNS Sequoia 3L - Accent Rocks
Hygrophila pinnatifida
Ceratopteris thalictroides
Ludwigia palustris var Super Red
Under Wood and Rock
Cryptocoryne parva var Mini
Bucephalandra (assorted varieties)
On Rock at Water Line
Micranthemum callitrichoides var Cuba
Left and Right Sides in Sand
Eleocharis acicularis var Mini
Hydrocotyle verticillata
Floaters
Red Root Floater
Shrimp
Pygmy Cory
Otocinclus
Exotic Pleco
Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish
Badis? Once plants grow in
Goby
Snails
That's the plan.
Started collecting bits in April, then found out I'd have to be in Dallas for most of May for some family matters. While in Dallas, Aquashella was in town along with an aquascaping demo of an LFS, Fish Gallery, by MJ Aquascaping of YouTube fame. Being my plan is based on the Guppy tank MJ created, I could not miss this opportunity. Learned a lot and had the opportunity to ask MJ a lot of questions.
My intention is to Dark Start, then plant.
I'm held up by the need of one part. The Week Aqua Arm Stand /Black (L Stand) base is too wide for this tank. In need of a 3 mm spacer. My neighbor, a metal shop, made me one out of ABS plastic. It works perfectly, only they made only one. I need two. My fault for not being clearer. I'll hit them up once they are back in the shop after the weekend.
More to come...
I've found the in the past ~20 years there has been quite a lot of change in the hobby. So many more products available, my last high-tech tanks was T5's and Metal Halides. My have things changed.
My Plan
Tank /Stand
UNS 60SLighting
Chihiros WRGB II Pro 60
Chihiros WRGB II Pro 60 Light Shade /w Mirror
Chihiros WRBG II Pro LED Light Hanging Kit
Week Aqua Arm Stand /Black (L Stand)
Filtration
Oase BioMaster 2 Thermo 250Oase Shutoff Valve 16/22 mm - x 2
FZone 3M Grey Tubing 16/22 mm
Stainless Steel 16/22 to 12/16 reducer
FZone 3M Grey Tubing 12/16 mm
FZone Mini Lily Pipes w/ Skimmer
I found that to use Lily pipes that fit this tank size, I'll need to use something small, hence the reduction in tubing size.
CO2
5 LB CO2 TankCO2 Art Dual Stage Regulator /w Bubble Counter and Solenoid
FZone CO2 Proof Line
CO2 Check Valve
NilocG CO2 Drop Checker /w Solution
Timer
Qanvee M2 Inline CO2 Diffuser
Lucked out with CO2, found someone on Facebook Marketplace selling 2 complete CO2 systems. With full tanks, for less than the price of a new CO2 Art Regulator. Snapped them both up.
Hardscape
Rock - Black Lava RockWood - Dragon Wood
Substrate
APT S - Base layer
UNS ControBase 2L
APT Jazz Caps
UNS ControSoil Black Fine 10L
UNS Mojave Extra Fine 8L- Open areas
UNS Sequoia 3L - Accent Rocks
Plants
Rear MiddleHygrophila pinnatifida
Ceratopteris thalictroides
Ludwigia palustris var Super Red
Under Wood and Rock
Cryptocoryne parva var Mini
Bucephalandra (assorted varieties)
On Rock at Water Line
Micranthemum callitrichoides var Cuba
Left and Right Sides in Sand
Eleocharis acicularis var Mini
Hydrocotyle verticillata
Floaters
Red Root Floater
Livestock
Wish List: at this time, nothing is set in stoneShrimp
Pygmy Cory
Otocinclus
Exotic Pleco
Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish
Badis? Once plants grow in
Goby
Snails
That's the plan.
Started collecting bits in April, then found out I'd have to be in Dallas for most of May for some family matters. While in Dallas, Aquashella was in town along with an aquascaping demo of an LFS, Fish Gallery, by MJ Aquascaping of YouTube fame. Being my plan is based on the Guppy tank MJ created, I could not miss this opportunity. Learned a lot and had the opportunity to ask MJ a lot of questions.
My intention is to Dark Start, then plant.
I'm held up by the need of one part. The Week Aqua Arm Stand /Black (L Stand) base is too wide for this tank. In need of a 3 mm spacer. My neighbor, a metal shop, made me one out of ABS plastic. It works perfectly, only they made only one. I need two. My fault for not being clearer. I'll hit them up once they are back in the shop after the weekend.
More to come...
86 replies
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7077 views
This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!
1979 replies
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47373 views
I'm on the hunt for a stand mounted light stand for my 120p + Hyperspot L. I've found a few options, but nothing spectacular. I figured I'd ask for info/ideas before I consider startting down the DIY route with some conduit type pipe. Ultimately, I can't bring myself to mount the light from the celling only for the cord to dangle down, but based on what I'm [not] finding, I might give in. I could in theory 3d print something to maybe obscure the cord, so that may be my ultimate fall back if this turns out to be a dead end.
WeekAqua - Mounts behind the tank, which would not be my first choice, but I would be willing to settle on it. I'm not finding anyone with it in stock and it's $300 landed from Alibaba.
ADA Solar - More the look I'm going for, but they're not intended to be used with a single light for a 120p, so I'd need 2, which is noted as discontinued (and $600 for a light stand sounds nuts)
ADA Solar Stand Option 2 - $729 + shipping just seems outrageous, even if it were in stock!
Liti Light Stand - Definitely the closest to the look I had in my mind. Seeing this made me wonder if a single 10 foot 1/2 tube of aluminum conduit could be bent in the same fashion of the multiple pieces of this stand (bending inspiration video here).
WeekAqua - Mounts behind the tank, which would not be my first choice, but I would be willing to settle on it. I'm not finding anyone with it in stock and it's $300 landed from Alibaba.
ADA Solar - More the look I'm going for, but they're not intended to be used with a single light for a 120p, so I'd need 2, which is noted as discontinued (and $600 for a light stand sounds nuts)
ADA Solar Stand Option 2 - $729 + shipping just seems outrageous, even if it were in stock!
Liti Light Stand - Definitely the closest to the look I had in my mind. Seeing this made me wonder if a single 10 foot 1/2 tube of aluminum conduit could be bent in the same fashion of the multiple pieces of this stand (bending inspiration video here).
10 replies
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112 views
Journal Mini Yugang - My experience
This journal documents my thought process and design decisions for building mini yugang reactors for tanks below 20 gallons/60P.
If this is your first time learning about a yugang reactor, head over to this article:
Yugang CO2 Reactor - A Guide
One of the challenges with the yugang reactor is that they are tough to build for smaller tanks due to material availability. But that issue was solved in this thread below:
Yugang Reactors for Smaller Tanks
After reading the thread above, I thought that the PC cooling reservoir would be a great idea for three reasons:
Challenges with the mini yugang and how to resolve them:
I hope the reader will find my experience helpful in designing their own mini yugang. Thank you for reading.
If this is your first time learning about a yugang reactor, head over to this article:
Yugang CO2 Reactor - A Guide
One of the challenges with the yugang reactor is that they are tough to build for smaller tanks due to material availability. But that issue was solved in this thread below:
Yugang Reactors for Smaller Tanks
After reading the thread above, I thought that the PC cooling reservoir would be a great idea for three reasons:
- You will be able to disassemble it for cleanup
- It’s see-through, so you can adjust flow as required, as the flow will decrease over time from filter clog-up. This is sort of important for mini yugangs as significant flow reductions could lead to a slower rate of pH drop. This is discussed in detail later in the journal.
- Its outflow is off-centre and the cylinder is rotatable as shown in the photo below, thus you can increase or decrease pH drop based on your tank size. This feature is particularly important as the PC cooling reservoirs come in fixed sizes, so the only real way to adjust pH drop is by rotating the cylinder to increase or decrease CO2 absorption.
Challenges with the mini yugang and how to resolve them:
- Low volume: I have used a 310 mm PC cooling reservoir, with a usable diameter of 40mm. This means that during operation at full capacity the volume of water in the reactor is pretty low; about 185ml. This is a little problematic as the low mass flow rate requirement of the mini yugang coupled with the low volume means that only a small amount of water gets injected with CO2 at any point in time. This leads to the pH drop being very slow for a tank size of 20 gallons. I had designed my yugang for a pH drop of 1.4 and it takes me about 5-6 hours to achieve this. The way to resolve this issue would be by using a reactor with a great length (to be able to afford larger mass flow rates) and a larger volume, but this would mean that you would have a tough time running the reactor in overflow mode as the CO2 gas pocket would have to be very small due to the bigger reactor size. The other solution is to start injecting early like I do. So to conclude, the “rate of pH drop” is dependent on reactor volume, mass flow rate and the size of the fish tank. So keep this in mind if you’re trying to use a mini yugang for tanks bigger than 20 gallons.
- Usually small volumes of air being purged into the reactor isn’t an issue as yugang points out in his article but if the filter is purging out massive bubbles of air frequently then this most certainly will affect reactor operation. If you own one of the older biomasters one of the issues you’d encounter is the filter purging air into the reactor. This happens in two cases; if you don’t have a bypass or if the tee joint at the bypass is oriented incorrectly. This is why my suggestion would be to install a bypass, as it just gives you more control over the situation. So, what is then the correct tee joint orientation? If you look at the photo below, you’ll see how the bull head of the tee joint is pointing upwards against gravity and that the bypass is connected to the bull head while the reactor inflow is connected to the parallel down-flow. This is key because the bypass being connected to the upwards facing bull head ensures that any bubbles being purged from the filter is not entering the reactor; this happens as bubbles have an affinity to move upwards. In this case, the filter purges air and the bubbles shoot straight into the bypass and out into the tank without entering the reactor and disrupting reactor performance.
I hope the reader will find my experience helpful in designing their own mini yugang. Thank you for reading.
4 replies
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110 views
Started a new tank with the idea of show casing Lagenandra meeboldii which I have not showcased before. Wanted to feature Hygrophila lower Hlaingbwe, but I removed it later as I think it would be too large for this tank.
New substrate, new filter, squeezed filter mulm from the other matured tank, then ran the tank one week day before planting. 100% water change after planting, then 100% water change every other day since then. Dosing 1ml APT3 after water change day, and remineralizing to 5dGH using APT Sky. Trying out the low water column dosing approach for the initial period.
Filter: Oase 250
Lights: Week aqua a430 80%
Substrate: APT Feast
Was going to Journal about startup issues, however, it seems like the tank has already stabilized, skipping diatoms and green dust phase.
Freshly planted for a couple of days:
13/2/2026
Replanted the tops for Myriophyllum roraima, Cut and replanted Rotala blood red to begin building up the bush form. Trimmed old leaves
Foreground seems a bit blocky for now, so I think I'lll move stuff round again. Probably when the BV grows out some more.
Pic on 23/2/2026
Readings at this stage:
Potassium: 2.3ppm
Ammonia: 0.1ppm
reduce water changes to 2 times a week.
New substrate, new filter, squeezed filter mulm from the other matured tank, then ran the tank one week day before planting. 100% water change after planting, then 100% water change every other day since then. Dosing 1ml APT3 after water change day, and remineralizing to 5dGH using APT Sky. Trying out the low water column dosing approach for the initial period.
Filter: Oase 250
Lights: Week aqua a430 80%
Substrate: APT Feast
Was going to Journal about startup issues, however, it seems like the tank has already stabilized, skipping diatoms and green dust phase.
Freshly planted for a couple of days:
13/2/2026
Replanted the tops for Myriophyllum roraima, Cut and replanted Rotala blood red to begin building up the bush form. Trimmed old leaves
Foreground seems a bit blocky for now, so I think I'lll move stuff round again. Probably when the BV grows out some more.
Pic on 23/2/2026
Readings at this stage:
Potassium: 2.3ppm
Ammonia: 0.1ppm
reduce water changes to 2 times a week.
81 replies
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5109 views
Journal High-Tech 90P Build
Hi guys!
I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.
The starting point:
I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.
I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.
Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.
I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.
These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.
The starting point:
I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.
I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.
Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.
I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.
These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
23 replies
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871 views
I picked up a UNS 45T secondhand and decided to set up a high tech, NA-inspired triangular layout. Aiming to keep this relatively low maintenance.
For the cabinet, I ordered a SUNDSO cabinet from IKEA. It's a stylish black indoor-outdoor cabinet made of galvanized steel but extremely flimsy, with all of the panels warping at the slightest touch. I built a simple lumber frame from 2x2s and 1/4" plywood to go inside. Although it's not tied into the cabinet, the frame measurements have so little tolerance that it is solid and reinforces the cabinet perfectly with no torquing or lateral movements. This cabinet is ideal because the shelving and bottom panels can be omitted from the installation without compromising the assembly of the walls, so I was able to insert the lumber frame inside and transfer all of the load directly onto the floor. The other major benefit of this cabinet was the adjustable feet, which made it easy to achieve perfect contact between the top of the lumber frame and the inside of the cabinet. Essentially, the cabinet acts as an aesthetic shell that fits over a much more structurally sound stand. The only other modification made was to drill holes in the side and back panels for plumbing and electrical wiring. The sharp holes were fitted with 3D printed grommets.
Equipment:
Cabinet and equipment close-up
Layout
The goal is a triangular peninsula layout with lots of negative space. In the past I have done much more hardscape-heavy layouts with way too many plant species, so I'm trying a slightly more minimalist feel with mostly epiphytes and mosses.
Final layout. Spiderwood and some stone whose name I can't remember. The majority were very geometric and cuboid, so what you see are the most organic looking pieces I could find in the bin. Substrate is Fluval Stratum and UNS Controsoil which will be added after planting.
Plant list, if sourcing works out
Inspiration
Heavily inspired by this aquascape by Rachel Ellis for Horizon Aquatics.
Other inspiration comes from JJ Aquarium
The tank is currently filled and in a dark start with some seeded media while we wait for the light to arrive. Chihiros halts business during the entire month of Chinese New Year so it hasn't shipped yet.
For the cabinet, I ordered a SUNDSO cabinet from IKEA. It's a stylish black indoor-outdoor cabinet made of galvanized steel but extremely flimsy, with all of the panels warping at the slightest touch. I built a simple lumber frame from 2x2s and 1/4" plywood to go inside. Although it's not tied into the cabinet, the frame measurements have so little tolerance that it is solid and reinforces the cabinet perfectly with no torquing or lateral movements. This cabinet is ideal because the shelving and bottom panels can be omitted from the installation without compromising the assembly of the walls, so I was able to insert the lumber frame inside and transfer all of the load directly onto the floor. The other major benefit of this cabinet was the adjustable feet, which made it easy to achieve perfect contact between the top of the lumber frame and the inside of the cabinet. Essentially, the cabinet acts as an aesthetic shell that fits over a much more structurally sound stand. The only other modification made was to drill holes in the side and back panels for plumbing and electrical wiring. The sharp holes were fitted with 3D printed grommets.
Equipment:
- Tank: UNS 45T
- Filtration: Oase Filtosmart Thermo 100, FZone stainless steel inlet/outlet pipes with surface skimmer
- Lighting: Chihiros WRGB II 10th Edition 45cm
- CO2: 5 lb cylinder, FZone budget regulator, FZone inline CO2 diffuser
Cabinet and equipment close-up
Layout
The goal is a triangular peninsula layout with lots of negative space. In the past I have done much more hardscape-heavy layouts with way too many plant species, so I'm trying a slightly more minimalist feel with mostly epiphytes and mosses.
Final layout. Spiderwood and some stone whose name I can't remember. The majority were very geometric and cuboid, so what you see are the most organic looking pieces I could find in the bin. Substrate is Fluval Stratum and UNS Controsoil which will be added after planting.
Plant list, if sourcing works out
- Java fern trident
- Ludwigia arcuata
- S. repens
- Hydrocotyle japan
- Buce lamandau mini purple + other mixed buce
- Anubias nana petite
- Riccardia chamedryfolia
- Christmas or weeping moss
Inspiration
Heavily inspired by this aquascape by Rachel Ellis for Horizon Aquatics.
Other inspiration comes from JJ Aquarium
The tank is currently filled and in a dark start with some seeded media while we wait for the light to arrive. Chihiros halts business during the entire month of Chinese New Year so it hasn't shipped yet.
69 replies
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4073 views
Journal Waterbox 20g AIO Planted Tank
NC AL’s Waterbox 20g AIO Planted Tank
Current view as of 5/26/26
Current view as of 5/26/26
Tank: Waterbox 20 AIO
Return pump: AI Axis 40
Lighting: (2) AI Blade Fresh 12”
Dosing pump: Ecotech Marine
CO2 injected
The purpose of this tank is to maintain a healthy planted tank for at least 1 year. There is a stipulation that I must be able to do this using my tap water for water changes.
25 replies
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797 views