Okay here how the build went:
To start, the tank the sump will be filtering is 60" long x 18" deep, so the stand outer measurements are 18 3/4" x 61 1/2" ...
Makes sense so far...
Until....
A 40 gallon breeder is 36" long x 18" deep meaning there was no way I could fit the tank inside the stand using 2x4 lumber... Huge overlook on my end, not sure how I even thought it would fit in the stand. So.... 30 gallon long is now the sump - 36" long x 12" deep x 16" high.
Quick math:
3.5" of excess height in sump (in case of return failure).
36" x 12" x 3.5" = 1512 cubic inches = 1.4" of display tank height.
Siphons will be adjusted to break well before 1.4" of display tank water is drained during return failure / power outage.
Return section volume: 12" x 12" x 8" = 1152 cubic inches.
Display tank water level will be 1.25" below the tank rim.
60" x 18" x 1.25" = 1350 cubic inches.
So, this all means that:
If the return pump were to shut off or fail, the siphons will break well before the sump overflows.
If the siphons were to break or fail with the return pump still on, the excess tank volume will easily be able to handle the volume remaining in the return section of the sump.
Picked up the 30g Long from FB marketplace for $25 so I can't complain.
Picked up a glass cutter, and a 48" x 36" sheet of single pane glass - out of that entire sheet I managed to cut 2 pieces for the sump, the rest cracked / shattered as I cut it, I guess I am a little too impatient for glass cutting! So luckily the store I bought it from cuts it for free (not sure why the guy didn't mention this the first time I went to buy glass). So I got them to cut the remaining 3 pieces, plus an additional 2 pieces I will use for glass lids on the 120XH.
Silicone I used was DAP All Purpose Ultra 100% Silicone - It says right on the front 100% aquarium safe. I went to grab some GE Silicone 1 but unfortunately the new formulation states "not recommended for aquariums" and says it is mold / mildew resistant, despite being advertised as 100% pure silicone.
Marked out where I want the baffles to be located:
Laid a thick bead along the lines, working left - right 1 baffle at a time, and then placed the baffle in place, shimmied it between the aquarium walls to ensure silicone was filling the gap, and then laid a thin bead along the inside of each corner, smoothing with my finger.
The instructions say it is waterproof after 12 hours, and fully cured after 24 hours. I left it cure for 24 hours and then began filling it for a leak check and to see if the baffles will hold as it filled from left to right:
Everything held as it filled up one chamber at a time, no leaks. So I added a 1600 gallon / hour pump from my RO storage tank and circulated water through it at max flow:
So, I'm happy with it for the most part. Is it perfect? No. Is this the best design? No. Would others think it isn't good enough, or too many baffles / layout isn't right? Also yes.
But, for me, it's going to work just fine. I wish I had made the taller 2 baffles even taller, because at 1600 gallons per hour it is getting close to overpowering the 1" height difference, especially when I put some fine sponge in the first chamber. However, I am not planning on running this at 1600 gallons per hour, more like 850 - 1000 gallons per hour, and I will be using course sponge for the most part not a fine sponge, so I doubt I will have any water flowing over the baffles instead of down / up through the media. Worst case, I can always add a little height to them at a later date, or just leave it as there is not a risk for overflowing.
Next steps:
Buy overflows, media and return pump / plumbing. But that will have to wait as I battle illnesses and potential unknowns.
Let me know your thoughts!
