Please look through my buy ounce cry ounce grail tank, let me know your thoughts. Questions at the end of the post.

Sean Riva

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System Profile

  • Display tank : ARC Custom 48” wide x 30” deep x. 24” tall 150 gallon Ultra Clear Rimless Glass Aquarium 19mm Euro Flush and acrylic lids for safety
  • Stand : ARC VIV Aluminum 48” wide x 30” deep x 31” tall + Stand fully enclosed with magnetic locks on doors for child protection
  • Sump? None, hate the noise! Never again.
  • Filter : Canister : Stainless Steel Canister Filter Ver 2 - ARC with Upgraded Pump × 122L Double Inlet / 55W (7000L) Chaning DC, w/ Seachem Matrix 4L × 5, and Sponge Pad × 2, Stainless Steel 2 Inlet 1 Outlet × 1, and Silicone Tubing - Gray Color × 2
  • Controversial but I have used it and it works + Filter: Eheim under gravel filter with eheim Substrate Pro biological filter media 5L (small enough to fit under), and Oase Oxymax 100x 1 air pump to run plenum, covered in 2.5” black flourite Seacham
  • CO2 : 10LBS ALUMINUM CO2, Yugang Stainless Steel Horizontal CO2 Reactor × 1 Stainless Steel - Large - 90cm tank or more / 16mm - 5/8in, w/PRO REGULATOR DUAL STAGES by AQUA ROCKS COLORADO × 1, silicone CO2 tubing x1, and Double Tap Quick Release Connector × 3
  • Lighting : Light Hanging System by LEDStar × 2, Netlea AT6 Pro with shades x2, back glass hanging LED panel
  • Substrate: ADA Amazonia aqua soil 20L

  • Aqua scape : Basalt Black Lava × 25
    Small 3 to 5”, Basalt Black Lava × 50
    Medium 6 to 8”, Basalt Black Lava × 325
    Large 9 to 12“,
    drilled and pinned with medical grade titanium rod.
  • Auto top off : None
  • Heating/cooling : Sunsun inline Heater set at 76 degrees
  • System control : None (Will add down the road -Apex maybe?!🤔)
  • Fish: Diamond 💎 Tetra (6-10) and Bristle nose Super Red long fins (2-4).
  • Plants: ludwigia pantanal, Rotala Florida, Rotala macrandra mini, Rotala blood red, Hygrophila Chai, Cabomba red Furcata, Cryptocoryne spirals red and pink flamingo.
  • Clean up: Python Hands free hook, 100’ no spill Aquarium water change python kit, and python squeeze syphon starter
  • Water testing: Apera AI311 Premium Series PH60 water proof test kit.
Questions: I need help please. Is my heater ok? I hear horror stories of heater cooking fish or opposite, do I need a chiller?, would two AI Hydra 32 fresh water be better than Netlea AT6s? What’s the best digital water tester? Again, I am a buy ounce cry ounce guy. Feel free to give me advice as I am very out of practice and love learning from experienced people. I have forgotten more than I currently know. . .
 

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Quick thoughts:
  • Netlea AT6 x 2 are for sure the right choice.
  • Do you really need a heater?
  • Source water? RODI?
  • Fertilization method?
  • The under gravel filter/plenum seems very counterproductive? I know precisely nothing about their advantages, cursory understanding of disadvantages, and no idea how this could be a useful addition to a high tech planted tank.
  • Are you hiring?
 
  • Trophy
Reactions: Art
Quick thoughts:
  • Netlea AT6 x 2 are for sure the right choice.
  • Do you really need a heater?
  • Source water? RODI?
  • Fertilization method?
  • The under gravel filter/plenum seems very counterproductive? I know precisely nothing about their advantages, cursory understanding of disadvantages, and no idea how this could be a useful addition to a high tech planted tank.
  • Are you hiring?
1)Netlea AT6 😎
2) Yes, finished basement wall CT USA so wi tee is cold
3) Source water is town need to de chlorinate and mix with RO as water has high phosphate and minerals but getting plumber into because I have taps in basement that lead to outdoor shower hot and cold so might have him plum taps for closer for me.
4) that’s a good question, I know it will be less is more approach don’t want to over fert with common one size fits all products. Open to your knowledge/advice thanks for looking
5) it’s more bio media works well for me always on 11 tanks but modern people don’t like it and seacham has iron
6) hiring? No. I have faith in myself 🤞 it’s a hobby for me to relax after working all day in the ICU of hospital.
 
I’d also question the UGF, is it really going to do anything? My sump is dead silent, maybe you had older style? I’d definitely go with a 20 pound CO2 tank.
 
@Sean Riva, welcome again to our community. Thanks for joining us and sharing what looks to be a fantastic beginning!

Questions: I need help please. Is my heater ok? I hear horror stories of heater cooking fish or opposite, do I need a chiller?, would two AI Hydra 32 fresh water be better than Netlea AT6s? What’s the best digital water tester? Again, I am a buy ounce cry ounce guy. Feel free to give me advice as I am very out of practice and love learning from experienced people. I have forgotten more than I currently know. . .
It looks like this is not your first tank! I agree with you that buying quality once is better than saving some bucks and buying twice. Let me see if I can help with your questions:
  • I’m in Florida and haven’t used a heater in years so take my comments with that in mind. To me, all heaters are disposable and should be replaced every year. Instead of buying one large one, buy two smaller ones that will heat the water to what you want. Lastly, inline makes it hard to replace. I would use two in the tank. You can buy the ones that discreetly stick to the back of the aquarium and are flat. Easy to hide.
  • I don’t think you need a chiller unless your room get above 80F in the summer.
  • I have the Netlea AT6 Pro and it’s a beast. I prefer it to the Hydras.
  • I like the Hanna Checkers but you will likely not test too often. Get yourself a good pH pen or wait to get the controller that will come with a pH probe.
  • Consider whether your tap water is good enough (check with your local water management report) or if you should invest in reverse osmosis.
  • Thank you for bringing plenums back into my consciousness. Back in the day, they were THE method for reefing. They are no longer used for reefing and also not in our planted aquariums. I would encourage you to reconsider the undergravel filter. What you want is a substrate water solution that remains in the substrate and doesn’t leech into the water column. The undergravel filter takes the substrate solution and puts it into the water column. This will negatively impact everything by preventing the necessary anoxic environment in the substrate and putting organics into the water column that will lead to never-ending algae issues.
    • Although biological filtration of the water is necessary, today we just use the canister filters for that. Your plants will be taking a significant role here also. Plenums are no longer necessary to achieve proper filtration.
  • Focus on making sure you have good dispersion of the CO2 along with the water movement throughout your aquarium.
  • I highly recommend an auto-top off system such as the one from Tunze.
Send pictures when you can and consider starting your own journal thread.

Feel free to ask more questions here.
 
I am thinking of going inert substrate! Especially after reading many journals.
 
I am thinking of going inert substrate! Especially after reading many journals.
The plus side of inert far out ways any negative. But man, I put Landen in my 40 and it’s working out too well right now. I’m having dirty thoughts of swapping my 100 to Aqua soil 😆
 
The plus side of inert far out ways any negative. But man, I put Landen in my 40 and it’s working out too well right now. I’m having dirty thoughts of swapping my 100 to Aqua soil 😆
What about at least you get iron and it’s inert…. 🤔My problem is people use soil for comp but then it is clay and dead and they don’t care because they tear it down and start again. I want to keep mine and live/work it forever. So inert does seem to fit that bill… I need help!
 

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What about at least you get iron and it’s inert…. 🤔My problem is people use soil for comp but then it is clay and dead and they don’t care because they tear it down and start again. I want to keep mine and live/work it forever. So inert does seem to fit that bill… I need help!
Go with Black Diamond Blasting sand 20/40 course grit. 50 pounds is about 12 or 13 bucks. That fluorite is too expensive but looks good.
 
Go with Black Diamond Blasting sand 20/40 course grit. 50 pounds is about 12 or 13 bucks. That fluorite is too expensive but looks good.
lol define expensive… everything is and perhaps it would add something that isn’t done often? But yeah I am aware of blasting black Diamond from other posts here. I am thinking about it… and soil…
 

System Profile Updated*

  • Display tank : ARC Custom 48” wide x 30” deep x. 24” tall 150 gallon Ultra Clear Rimless Glass Aquarium 19mm Euro Flush and acrylic lids for safety
  • Stand : ARC VIV Aluminum Grey 48” wide x 30” deep x 31” tall + Stand fully enclosed with magnetic locks on doors for child protection
  • Sump? None, hate the noise! Never again.
  • Filter : Canister : Stainless Steel Canister Filter Ver 2 - ARC with Upgraded Pump × 122L Double Inlet / 55W (7000L) Chaning DC, w/ Seachem Matrix 4L × 5, and Sponge Pad × 2, Stainless Steel 2 Inlet 1 Outlet × 1, and Silicone Tubing - Gray Color × 2
  • CO2 : 20 lbs ALUMINUM CO2, Yugang Stainless Steel Horizontal CO2 Reactor × 1 Stainless Steel - Large - 90cm tank or more / 16mm - 5/8in, w/PRO REGULATOR DUAL STAGES by AQUA ROCKS COLORADO × 1, silicone CO2 tubing x1, and Double Tap Quick Release Connector × 6
  • Lighting : Light Hanging System by LEDStar × 2, Netlea AT6 Pro with shades x2, back glass hanging LED panel White
  • Substrate: Netla pro soil x4 9L, crush black lava rock, and black flourite Seacham x 10 7lbs bags
  • Aqua scape : Basalt Black Lava × 25
    Small 3 to 5”, Basalt Black Lava × 50
    Medium 6 to 8”, Basalt Black Lava × 325
    Large 9 to 12“,
    drilled and pinned with medical grade .3125 diameter grade 5 Bio-safe titanium rod.
  • Auto top off : None at least initially
  • Heating/cooling : Sunsun inline Heater set at 76 degrees
  • System control : None (Will add down the road -Apex maybe?!🤔)
  • Fish: Diamond 💎 Tetra (6-10) or pink rainbow 6-10. Bristle nose Super Red long fins or rare small (2).
  • Plants: ludwigia pantanal, Rotala Florida, Rotala macrandra mini, Rotala blood red, Hygrophila Chai, Cabomba red Furcata, Cryptocoryne spirals red and pink flamingo ++.
  • Clean up: Python Hands free hook, 100’ no spill Aquarium water change python kit, and python squeeze syphon starter
  • Water testing: Apera AI311 Premium Series PH60 water proof test kit, I want information on the best automatic digital one but I dont have the knowledge.any help on best unit?
  • RO unit which one!? I want to not take forever when changing 75 gallons a lot! (having my water tested by my water company they came and took samples for me - I know a guy)
 
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System Profile Updated*

  • Display tank : ARC Custom 48” wide x 30” deep x. 24” tall 150 gallon Ultra Clear Rimless Glass Aquarium 19mm Euro Flush and acrylic lids for safety
  • Stand : ARC VIV Aluminum Grey 48” wide x 30” deep x 31” tall + Stand fully enclosed with magnetic locks on doors for child protection
  • Sump? None, hate the noise! Never again.
  • Filter : Canister : Stainless Steel Canister Filter Ver 2 - ARC with Upgraded Pump × 122L Double Inlet / 55W (7000L) Chaning DC, w/ Seachem Matrix 4L × 5, and Sponge Pad × 2, Stainless Steel 2 Inlet 1 Outlet × 1, and Silicone Tubing - Gray Color × 2
  • CO2 : 20 lbs ALUMINUM CO2, Yugang Stainless Steel Horizontal CO2 Reactor × 1 Stainless Steel - Large - 90cm tank or more / 16mm - 5/8in, w/PRO REGULATOR DUAL STAGES by AQUA ROCKS COLORADO × 1, silicone CO2 tubing x1, and Double Tap Quick Release Connector × 6
  • Lighting : Light Hanging System by LEDStar × 2, Netlea AT6 Pro with shades x2, back glass hanging LED panel White
  • Substrate: Netla pro soil x4 9L, crush black lava rock, and black flourite Seacham x 10 7lbs bags
  • Aqua scape : Basalt Black Lava × 25
    Small 3 to 5”, Basalt Black Lava × 50
    Medium 6 to 8”, Basalt Black Lava × 325
    Large 9 to 12“,
    drilled and pinned with medical grade .3125 diameter grade 5 Bio-safe titanium rod.
  • Auto top off : None at least initially
  • Heating/cooling : Sunsun inline Heater set at 76 degrees
  • System control : None (Will add down the road -Apex maybe?!🤔)
  • Fish: Diamond 💎 Tetra (6-10) or pink rainbow 6-10. Bristle nose Super Red long fins or rare small (2).
  • Plants: ludwigia pantanal, Rotala Florida, Rotala macrandra mini, Rotala blood red, Hygrophila Chai, Cabomba red Furcata, Cryptocoryne spirals red and pink flamingo ++.
  • Clean up: Python Hands free hook, 100’ no spill Aquarium water change python kit, and python squeeze syphon starter
  • Water testing: Apera AI311 Premium Series PH60 water proof test kit, I want information on the best automatic digital one but I do t have the knowledge.
  • RO unit which one!? I want to not take forever when changing 75 gallons a lot! (having my water tested by my water company they came and took samples for me - I know a guy)
Great plan @Sean Riva . For any help on your CO2 setup, if needed, don't hesitate to send me a PM.

Hope you don't forget to post pics when the journey starts, so that we can live the dream with you :giggle:
 
What about at least you get iron and it’s inert…. 🤔My problem is people use soil for comp but then it is clay and dead and they don’t care because they tear it down and start again. I want to keep mine and live/work it forever. So inert does seem to fit that bill… I need help!
I used flourite in the Journal - 1000 Gallon High Tech Planted Tank I haven't found much difference in it from when I used pool filter sand at home. I still had plenty of iron deficiency when my auto doser ran out. I also feel a lot of my stems just didn't root well in it and would uproot themselves. Plants grew great otherwise but I wouldn't attribute it to the flourite. I added some UNS controsoil a few weeks ago and so far my ludwigia super red hasn't been uprooting, I also needed the pH lowering in this tank because it has concrete rock.
 
I used flourite in the Journal - 1000 Gallon High Tech Planted Tank I haven't found much difference in it from when I used pool filter sand at home. I still had plenty of iron deficiency when my auto doser ran out. I also feel a lot of my stems just didn't root well in it and would uproot themselves. Plants grew great otherwise but I wouldn't attribute it to the flourite. I added some UNS controsoil a few weeks ago and so far my ludwigia super red hasn't been uprooting, I also needed the pH lowering in this tank because it has concrete rock.
I am using Netla pro soil but wanted to cap with black flourite and black flourite sand. IE different texture depending on area of scape etc.. thoughts on this?
 
We've discussed substrates before in the Sand, inert or soil? Which would you pick and why? You can find many opinions on what people are using and what they think about it. We've also talked about switching from an inert substrate to an active substrate.

I am not a fan of Fluorite because I think the granules are too large and it's harder for plants to root. I've never used the sand version so can't comment on it.

I personally think substrate choice should consider:
  • Providing a suitable medium for the plants to easily root in.
  • Providing for some separate between water column and substrate solution but too much. You want some exchange happening to get some oxygen into it. You want a good environment for the substrate ecosystem and microbiome.
  • It should be aesthetically pleasing to you and fit with your aquascape.
  • It should last a certain amount of time that is agreeable to you.
I personally prefer soil-based substrates because I have found them to provide most of the above. They function as a nutrient storehouse and you can add nutrients manually if you want. However, inert substrates can also do this and, theoretically, would last longer as clay tends to compact after a few years.

My suggestion would be not to combine soils as that will cause problems later on. Pick one and stick with it managing it to hit the above goals.
 
We've discussed substrates before in the Sand, inert or soil? Which would you pick and why? You can find many opinions on what people are using and what they think about it. We've also talked about switching from an inert substrate to an active substrate.

I am not a fan of Fluorite because I think the granules are too large and it's harder for plants to root. I've never used the sand version so can't comment on it.

I personally think substrate choice should consider:
  • Providing a suitable medium for the plants to easily root in.
  • Providing for some separate between water column and substrate solution but too much. You want some exchange happening to get some oxygen into it. You want a good environment for the substrate ecosystem and microbiome.
  • It should be aesthetically pleasing to you and fit with your aquascape.
  • It should last a certain amount of time that is agreeable to you.
I personally prefer soil-based substrates because I have found them to provide most of the above. They function as a nutrient storehouse and you can add nutrients manually if you want. However, inert substrates can also do this and, theoretically, would last longer as clay tends to compact after a few years.

My suggestion would be not to combine soils as that will cause problems later on. Pick one and stick with it managing it to hit the above goals.
Well here is my water report… thoughts? How much RO am I going to need to produce to do 50-70% weekly?
 

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Well here is my water report… thoughts? How much RO am I going to need to produce to do 50-70% weekly?
Honestly your water report looks pretty amazing. If I did the calculations correctly I do not know that you need a RO unit. You seem to have pretty soft water and would probably be able to work with what you have. I'd let others chime in but that's my observation from your numbers. Honestly, I'd die to have this water.

Edit: After checking what parameters my source water has you are 9x softer then mine just on the hardness scale. I have a hardness of 381 mg/L.
 
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If you can avoid the RO thing, I would highly encourage you to do it. I did RODI for many years and it is a slog unless you have the luxury of a mostly automated system like @GreggZ. Now I use tap water and things are so much easier and quicker which means they get done.

I would also encourage you to take some time and learn to use the IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator. We are fortunate to have the creators as part of our community so they can help you if you need it. Make sure to insert your water parameters into it. @Zeus. and @Hanuman.
 
I hear horror stories of heater cooking fish

Rule of aquariums, is all heaters fail.



Inkbird has you covered:
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Probe goes in the tank, heater plug goes in the controller socket: when water temperature goes high, controller shuts the heater off 👍👍

Cheap insurance! Even has dual probes for bigger tanks + sumps where you want to split the load across two heaters.
 
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