Problems with melting Anubias and Buce

[Noahspapa]

Excellent. Thank you!

 

[Noahspapa]

One thing I can’t help but wonder - I get the idea of keeping it consistent through the photo period and will work on that. It just seems strange that we turn the co2 off outside the photo period and the plant has to go through that ramping up & down every day.

 

[techman81]

One thing I can’t help but wonder - I get the idea of keeping it consistent through the photo period and will work on that. It just seems strange that we turn the co2 off outside the photo period and the plant has to go through that ramping up & down every day.

The co2 ramp up occurs before the photo period starts each day so as soon as lights are on, plants have what they need. Start the co2 injection a few hours before lights come on. We turn it off before lights go out because we're just wasting co2 then.

 

[Koan]

we turn the co2 off outside the photo period and the plant has to go through that ramping up & down

CO2 is a fuel for constructing new cellulose, new plant matter this only happens while the photosynthetic engine is running Plants do not photosynthesize, assimilate new carbon (from carbon dioxide) or create new tissues after the lights go out




In land plants, carbon dioxide is taken into the plant through the opening and closing of stomata on leaf surfaces. The stomata close at night, no way to get CO2 in.

Frontiers | Role of Circadian Rhythms in Major Plant Metabolic and Signaling Pathways

Plants require an endogenous regulatory network and mechanism to cope with diurnal environmental changes and compensate for their sessile nature. Plants use ...

www.frontiersin.org

In underwater plants, the same genetic circadian rhythms that schedule the utilization of carbon dioxide are still there, even though their transpiration of this gas occurs across different surfaces

How Amphibious Plants Rewired a Gas Exchange Pathway to Survive in Water

Keiko Torii and her team discovered a something which led to a new understanding about how amphibious plants have adapted to live both on land and in water.

cns.utexas.edu

 

[Kwyet]

Per the Yugang calculations, it depends on what PH drop you want , per what ppm of CO2 you're shooting for.




Exact PPM CO2 is not as important as stability, but a 1.5° pH drop is generally considered approximately 30+ PPM CO2, which is optimal for strong plant growth. A 1.2° drop may give approximately 15 PPM or medium plant growth, etc.

Slow growing plants like Anubias need the higher level of consistent CO2, fast growing stem plants have more flexibility and range.

What is most important for plant health, especially with the melting you're seeing, is that this level of CO2 concentration in the water be as close to exactly the same, all photoperiod / every photoperiod, as possible . That's what this Yugang reactor will do for you.

I’ve always read that a 1 pH drop= approximately 30 ppm CO2. I know for my own tank that a 1.2 drop gets me to around 50.
I realize stability is more important than the actual number, but I would watch the fish carefully if trying to immediately hit a 1.5 drop.
Not trying to be argumentative, but that just isn’t consistent with what I’ve read before. Actually, using the Hanna checker is probably better than going by pH drop.

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

One thing I can’t help but wonder - I get the idea of keeping it consistent through the photo period and will work on that. It just seems strange that we turn the co2 off outside the photo period and the plant has to go through that ramping up & down every day.

This happens naturally every single day across the world in waterways and lakes!

There are many many studies that document the rise of CO2 in lakes overnight due to bacteria, enzymes, and inhabitants producing CO2, which is then consumed through the day via plant photosynthesis.

If you want, you 100% can run your CO2 24/7. Overnight levels shouldn't rise more than daytime levels. Some large aquariums do this.

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

One thing I can’t help but wonder - I get the idea of keeping it consistent through the photo period and will work on that. It just seems strange that we turn the co2 off outside the photo period and the plant has to go through that ramping up & down every day.

Also, on larger tanks, they have TWO different solenoid/needle valves. One is the regular valve that maintains ~30+ppm CO2, and the other is a MUCH more open needle valve that is activated at the start of the day. This secondary needle valve is used to "quickly" raise CO2 levels to the desired level within minutes, then it turns off and leaves the regular valve there to maintain levels.


For many of our tanks, started 2-4 hours before photosynthesis begins is the best option we have.

 

[Noahspapa]

Thanks for all the explanation guys. I ordered parts to make two of the horizontal reactors per the provided parts list and have received shipment notification on the clear pipe and pvc fittings. Improvement is in progress here!

 

[Jeff Miotke]

I’ve always read that a 1 pH drop= approximately 30 ppm CO2. I know for my own tank that a 1.2 drop gets me to around 50.
I realize stability is more important than the actual number, but I would watch the fish carefully if trying to immediately hit a 1.5 drop.
Not trying to be argumentative, but that just isn’t consistent with what I’ve read before. Actually, using the Hanna checker is probably better than going by pH drop.

Yea that 1ph drop thing bit me in the behind. It only works at a specific Kh range. Outside that range its way off. @Naturescapes_Rocco identified this and since then Ive been great. in my case I never had issues until more recent years when I stopped using seiryu stone and used other stuff that didnt raise my Kh which out of the tap is like <0.5. Because of that I was way under on my CO2 concentrations with a 1 ph drop.

Hope that helps!

 

[Noahspapa]

As a follow-up. I was working in the 29G tank today and noticed the “black spots” on a Java fern. I hadn’t glued it to anything so I pulled it out to examine it. Some of it was the plantlets on the undersides of the leaves. There also appeared to be some sort of black algae (?) on the outside edges of the tops of the leaves. Not “fuzzy” at all. I removed the plantlets and soaked the leaves in a cup of aquarium water with APT fix lite added. After a couple minutes I put it back in the tank. I’ll see. I’ll try and take some photos if it persists. I also added some new Buce and Anubias in today. The parts for the yugang reactor have been ordered and have shipped. Last part arrives Monday.

 

[Noahspapa]

Horizontal reactors assembled and installed on 29 gallon and 20 gallon tanks yesterday. CO2 in water measured at approx 50 ppm with Hanna test set. My understanding is there is no adjustment here - correct. Once it’s in place it is what it is.

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

If you're running the reactor in "overflow" mode: correct, not much adjusting.

With a design that has a central-position "exit", there isn't much you can do for adjusting the reactor itself. If your reactor had an "offset" exit, you could rotate the reactor to adjust it.

If 50ppm CO2 is too high (I don't think it is, especially if your fish aren't showing any issues!), you can always raise your lily pipe for greater surface agitation, which will decrease the CO2 max equilibrium level. And increased oxygen, which plants and inhabitants all benefit from.

My experiment tank has been running about 50ppm CO2 the last 2-3 weeks without issue, but I have lots of surface agitation. Snails seem more upset than the fish, but the fish are fine.

 

[Noahspapa]

No issue with 50 ppm thank you. Fish seem just fine. Was just making sure I understood this correctly. I’m going to make two smaller units for my two 10 gallon tanks next.

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

Once you use a horizontal reactor, you'll never go back!
I haven't cleaned my reactor on my large tank in over a year of continuous use.
Compared to ceramic diffusers, or vertical reactors, they're just awesome.