Horizontal CO2 Reactor - Yugang 鱼缸 Reactor

  • Thread starter Thread starter Yugang
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None
This post is to summarise my understanding of the physics in the reactor, how to explain a remaining gas pocket after CO2 has been turned of, but arguably this post is less relevant for most users.

I recently had some PM exchange with a friend who observes an unexplained gas pocket in the reactor, that at least partially remains after the CO2 has been turned off at night. I usually don't observe that in my reactor (but it can sometimes happen) and I believe I now understand what is going on when it happens

The short story is - don't worry, unless too little CO2 is injected and as a consequence the tank and reactor have not yet reached (or will never reach) equilibrium.

Gases in fluids and in gas pockets try to reach an equilibrium of partial pressures (*). This is how CO2 absorbs in water (high partial pressure in pure CO2, lower in water), or how also oxygen and other gases diffuse in and out from the tanks water surface.
Now when we have pure CO2 in our reactor, this gas pocket will initially have zero partial pressure of O2, N2 and other gases than CO2, and therefore the gas pocket 'sucks' these gases from the tank water trying to reach equilibrium of partial pressures with the water. Some time after we stop injecting CO2 in the evening, the relative proportions of gases in the reactor will gradually approach equilibrium with the tank water, and as a consequence the gas bubble will not fully dissolve (different from what you would be expected with a pure CO2 gas pocket).

Now the point is, as I said, don't worry as long as we inject enough CO2 in the reactor. We can look at the three modes of operation of the reactor to make this point
-1- Overflow mode, as I use it. In overflow mode the reactor purges itself, as discribed earlier in the threads on horizontal reactor and CO2 Spray Bar. This purging will continuously push a little gas out from the reactor, and hence keep it perfectly pure CO2. By the end of the day the pure CO will dissolve, and (nearly) no gas will be left in the reactor.
-2- Inject with a precision CO2 regulator / CO2 needle valve. No CO2 can get 'lost', so ultimately all CO2 that comes from the regulator must get absorbed in the water. If there would be too much other gas (non CO2) in the reactor, the reactor CO2 absorption efficiency will go down, then the reactor will purge itself, until it reaches the state that all CO2 flow from the regulator will be absorbed in the water. So also here no problem.
-3- Inject with a pH/CO2 controller. Very similar to to argumentation -2-. No problem, the controller will guarantee that we reach target CO2 and stability, irrespective of the reactor purging itself in the process.

When injecting too low CO2, we are effectively continuously on the search for equilibrium, and our tank water has not yet stabilised nor has our reactor purged itself. So it is a process in transition. The solution is, whatever mode of operation is used, to inject enough CO2 for the tank and CO2 system to reach equilibrium.

(*)

Note:
Like so many others, I post on this forum and enjoy time talking with fellow hobbyists because I am passionate about the hobby, learn from others and get inspired, but also try to help and give back as much as I can. ScapeCrunch is a place where I have met some remarkable people, and sometimes there is even more good stuff going on in PM’s than on the public forum.

Not all planted tank fora are as open to innovation and new ideas as ScapeCrunch, and regretfully their members won’t have access to all new ideas in the hobby. As an example, we’ve been keeping tanks with bubble reactors for three decades, but after my post with a step-by-step description on how to optimise these reactors was deleted by another forum's admins , some recent ‘advice’ I see posted is inadequate and leading back to where too many reactors make noise, are not stable, are underpowered or spit CO2 mist and bubbles in the tank -- the struggle for two or three decades and continuing today, that could easily be avoided when having a clear 'cookbook recipe' for setting up and optimisation of a vertical bubble reactor.


Our hobby needs an open, constructive, innovative forum like ScapeCrunch, and in my view its creation was some time overdue. Anyone lurking around on this forum as guest to check out on reactors, please join ScapeCrunch and reach out, on the forum or in PM’s, to me and several people who are passionate about making CO2 injection simpler and easier, and share the passion for this hobby in general.

Yugang (CJR)
 
Last edited:
Good morning everyone..
I thought I would update with some info on the reactor I made..

It has been running for 2 weeks now and so far it's performing great...

Getting co2 in to my tank at the correct level has always been difficult I use ro water only and I use tropica soil substrate so my KH is 0

So Getting that 1.5ph drop has always required around 7 bubbles per second.. my tank is only 35 gallons..

I ended up building a 30 inch long reactor with 2 inch diameter pvc pipe. Here are the results ' my degas reading in a cup after 48 hours is 6.9ph.. over night my tank runs a small pump to help with degas for 5 hours and in the mornings my pH is at 6.1ph

My co2 comes on at 10.00am in the morning and my pH is 6.1ph , I inject around 7 bubbles per second ' my lights then come on at 2pm and my pH then reads 5.5ph..

I've noticed that in the 1st 2 hours pH falls from 6.1 to 5.7 dropping 0.1ph every 30mins, I then go from 5.7 to 5.6 in the following hour , then from 5.6 to 5.5 in the last hour before lights on..

I do have some surface agitation a slight ripple effect across the surface of the water from a wave maker.

So at lights on I am at 5.5ph from a degas reading of 6.9ph giving me a total of a 1.4ph drop..

So my reactor runs for 4 hours giving me a 0.6ph drop in that time.

It then continues to run while lights are on for another hour bringing the pH down to 5.4ph which is then a 1.5 pH drop.. At this point I have my timer on my regulator turn of for 45mins as at 5.4ph fish start moaning 🙃 and drop checker starts heading to yellow.. am thinking of maybe staying at 5.5ph next week as 5.4ph mite be to much of a drop for fish..

During that 45mins that co2 is of pH rises from 5.4ph to 5.4.5ph.. it then turns on again and runs again till 7pm dropping to 5.4ph again after 45mins and holding till co2 turns off..

My co2 turns of at 7pm and my lights go of at 8.45pm. During that 1 hour 45mins pH rises from 5.4ph to 5.5ph.. so not much to worry about as it's at the end of the photoperiod..

I've noticed that during the first couple of days no co2 bubbles were coming out of the reactor, but after 3 or 4 days the reactor was starting to purge after around 4 hours of running .. were talking 3 or 4 small bubbles coming out of the end every 5 minutes or so.. am certain a co2 pocket remains in the reactor over night but I may be wrong.

As for noise it pretty much silent, the slower the flow the less noise.. i am running around 80 gallons per hour through the reactor..

Plants have responded well with dwarf hair grass growing taller and greener and pearling more than usual during the photoperiod..

Obviously this is a trial and error thing and I may not be using the reactor correctly ? But for me it does what I want , it works well and is pretty much silent , and the bubbles in the tank are minimal compared to the thousands of bubbles I had before with a co2 art inline atomizer running..
Here are some pictures hope this helps with some info..

Overall am pleased with it and will continue to use it.. I may try some mods on it and see what happens. 😃

Big thanks to mich for helping me out with this build.. 🙌 🙏 🍻
 

Attachments

  • 20230825_183312.webp
    20230825_183312.webp
    263.7 KB · Views: 44
  • 20230902_151018.webp
    20230902_151018.webp
    856.3 KB · Views: 32
  • 20230902_160029.webp
    20230902_160029.webp
    646.4 KB · Views: 24
  • 20230902_150602.webp
    20230902_150602.webp
    936.2 KB · Views: 27
  • 20230828_092325.webp
    20230828_092325.webp
    269.6 KB · Views: 26
  • 20230828_092632.webp
    20230828_092632.webp
    232.5 KB · Views: 20
  • 20230828_092202.webp
    20230828_092202.webp
    269.3 KB · Views: 23
  • 20230825_185546.webp
    20230825_185546.webp
    494.4 KB · Views: 22
  • 20230825_185402.webp
    20230825_185402.webp
    510.4 KB · Views: 22
  • 20230825_183322.webp
    20230825_183322.webp
    148.6 KB · Views: 19
  • 20230825_183319.webp
    20230825_183319.webp
    288.9 KB · Views: 23
Last edited:
Good morning everyone..
I thought I would update with some info on the reactor I made..

It has been running for 2 weeks now and so far it's performing great...

Getting co2 in to my tank at the correct level has always been difficult I use ro water only and I use tropica soil substrate so my KH is 0

So Getting that 1.5ph drop has always required around 7 bubbles per second.. my tank is only 35 gallons..

I ended up building a 30 inch long reactor with 2 inch diameter pvc pipe. Here are the results ' my degas reading in a cup after 48 hours is 6.9ph.. over night my tank runs a small pump to help with degas for 5 hours and in the mornings my pH is at 6.1ph

My co2 comes on at 10.00am in the morning and my pH is 6.1ph , I inject around 7 bubbles per second ' my lights then come on at 2pm and my pH then reads 5.5ph..

I've noticed that in the 1st 2 hours pH falls from 6.1 to 5.7 dropping 0.1ph every 30mins, I then go from 5.7 to 5.6 in the following hour , then from 5.6 to 5.5 in the last hour before lights on..

I do have some surface agitation a slight ripple effect across the surface of the water from a wave maker.

So at lights on I am at 5.5ph from a degas reading of 6.9ph giving me a total of a 1.4ph drop..

So my reactor runs for 4 hours giving me a 0.6ph drop in that time.

It then continues to run while lights are on for another hour bringing the pH down to 5.4ph which is then a 1.5 pH drop.. At this point I have my timer on my regulator turn of for 45mins as at 5.4ph fish start moaning 🙃 and drop checker starts heading to yellow.. am thinking of maybe staying at 5.5ph next week as 5.4ph mite be to much of a drop for fish..

During that 45mins that co2 is of pH rises from 5.4ph to 5.4.5ph.. it then turns on again and runs again till 7pm dropping to 5.4ph again after 45mins and holding till co2 turns off..

My co2 turns of at 7pm and my lights go of at 8.45pm. During that 1 hour 45mins pH rises from 5.4ph to 5.5ph.. so not much to worry about as it's at the end of the photoperiod..

I've noticed that during the first couple of days no co2 bubbles were coming out of the reactor, but after 3 or 4 days the reactor was starting to purge after around 4 hours of running .. were talking 3 or 4 small bubbles coming out of the end every 5 minutes or so.. am certain a co2 pocket remains in the reactor over night but I may be wrong.

As for noise it pretty much silent, the slower the flow the less noise.. i am running around 80 gallons per hour through the reactor..

Plants have responded well with dwarf hair grass growing taller and greener and pearling more than usual during the photoperiod..

Obviously this is a trial and error thing and I may not be using the reactor correctly ? But for me it does what I want , it works well and is pretty much silent , and the bubbles in the tank are minimal compared to the thousands of bubbles I had before with a co2 art inline atomizer running..
Here are some pictures hope this helps with some info..

Overall am pleased with it and will continue to use it.. I may try some mods on it and see what happens. 😃

Big thanks to mich for helping me out with this build.. 🙌 🙏 🍻
As I stated in our PM's, your tank is beautiful. Thank you for posting your experience here.

For those who may be reading this topic for the first time, the small purging of CO2 gas is the built in safety the reactor offers. @Yugang calls this "overflow mode". Overflow mode offers those who don't run controllers peace of mind, while being away from the tank, as the reactor is incapable of gassing fish beyond the desired pH drop. If the purging is happening quickly, just lower injection a small amount and increase the time the CO2 is injected before lights on. Unless there's some physics I'm not aware of, the CO2 used (injected) would be the same as those using a controller who can inject faster. We just have the advantage of turning off CO2 when the desired pH has been reached through automation.

I myself, decided to over engineer the reactor (version 3) to allow some additional "play" with potential pH drop. I only did this knowing Version 3 would have a controller. Just use cation if you increase diameter or pipe length to prevent purging. I definitely run the risk of gassing my fish should I experience a controller failure. Luckily, and fingers crossed, I have some redundancy with an alarm going off, both to my phone and audible, should the tank go lower than my set pH drop.
 
Good morning everyone..
I thought I would update with some info on the reactor I made..

It has been running for 2 weeks now and so far it's performing great...

Getting co2 in to my tank at the correct level has always been difficult I use ro water only and I use tropica soil substrate so my KH is 0

So Getting that 1.5ph drop has always required around 7 bubbles per second.. my tank is only 35 gallons..

I ended up building a 30 inch long reactor with 2 inch diameter pvc pipe. Here are the results ' my degas reading in a cup after 48 hours is 6.9ph.. over night my tank runs a small pump to help with degas for 5 hours and in the mornings my pH is at 6.1ph

My co2 comes on at 10.00am in the morning and my pH is 6.1ph , I inject around 7 bubbles per second ' my lights then come on at 2pm and my pH then reads 5.5ph..

I've noticed that in the 1st 2 hours pH falls from 6.1 to 5.7 dropping 0.1ph every 30mins, I then go from 5.7 to 5.6 in the following hour , then from 5.6 to 5.5 in the last hour before lights on..

I do have some surface agitation a slight ripple effect across the surface of the water from a wave maker.

So at lights on I am at 5.5ph from a degas reading of 6.9ph giving me a total of a 1.4ph drop..

So my reactor runs for 4 hours giving me a 0.6ph drop in that time.

It then continues to run while lights are on for another hour bringing the pH down to 5.4ph which is then a 1.5 pH drop.. At this point I have my timer on my regulator turn of for 45mins as at 5.4ph fish start moaning 🙃 and drop checker starts heading to yellow.. am thinking of maybe staying at 5.5ph next week as 5.4ph mite be to much of a drop for fish..

During that 45mins that co2 is of pH rises from 5.4ph to 5.4.5ph.. it then turns on again and runs again till 7pm dropping to 5.4ph again after 45mins and holding till co2 turns off..

My co2 turns of at 7pm and my lights go of at 8.45pm. During that 1 hour 45mins pH rises from 5.4ph to 5.5ph.. so not much to worry about as it's at the end of the photoperiod..

I've noticed that during the first couple of days no co2 bubbles were coming out of the reactor, but after 3 or 4 days the reactor was starting to purge after around 4 hours of running .. were talking 3 or 4 small bubbles coming out of the end every 5 minutes or so.. am certain a co2 pocket remains in the reactor over night but I may be wrong.

As for noise it pretty much silent, the slower the flow the less noise.. i am running around 80 gallons per hour through the reactor..

Plants have responded well with dwarf hair grass growing taller and greener and pearling more than usual during the photoperiod..

Obviously this is a trial and error thing and I may not be using the reactor correctly ? But for me it does what I want , it works well and is pretty much silent , and the bubbles in the tank are minimal compared to the thousands of bubbles I had before with a co2 art inline atomizer running..
Here are some pictures hope this helps with some info..

Overall am pleased with it and will continue to use it.. I may try some mods on it and see what happens. 😃

Big thanks to mich for helping me out with this build.. 🙌 🙏 🍻
Thank you for posting your experience @Paul Chapman .

Your tank looks great (y)

drop checker starts heading to yellow.
I don't know the size of your 35 gallon tank (perhaps something like 25" * 21" * 24" ?), but my guess based on some estimations is that your reactor is quite a bit (up to 2 times ?) too strong? Yellow drop checker indeed starts to be a concern.
I've noticed that during the first couple of days no co2 bubbles were coming out of the reactor, but after 3 or 4 days the reactor was starting to purge after around 4 hours of running .. were talking 3 or 4 small bubbles coming out of the end every 5 minutes or so.. am certain a co2 pocket remains in the reactor over night but I may be wrong.
This is probably the reactor purging CO2 that is mixed with other gases, as described in my previous post. This is nothing to worry about, and it saves you the manual purging as you would have to do with vertical bubble reactors.

Obviously this is a trial and error thing and I may not be using the reactor correctly ? But for me it does what I want , it works well and is pretty much silent , and the bubbles in the tank are minimal compared to the thousands of bubbles I had before with a co2 art inline atomizer running..
If I am correctly guessing that your reactor is oversized for your tank size (perhaps by a factor of 2), then it would not be a good idea for the safety of your fish to run it in overflow mode. If you like to use overflow mode, it would be better to use the ratio 17.7 for (tank surface area / reactor surface area), and that most likely means a shorter tube (or perhaps you tilt it from its horizontal) than you have now, or preferably buy a bigger tank for your reactor :giggle:

I am assuming you are not using a pH/CO2 controller, so then it would be best to use a good quality CO2 regulator to set the correct CO2 flow and keep it there. For the CO2 ppm to stabilise well, it is then really important that you have a good surface agitation in the tank, and good gas exchange at the water surface in the tank.
During that 45mins that co2 is of pH rises from 5.4ph to 5.4.5ph.. it then turns on again and runs again till 7pm dropping to 5.4ph again after 45mins and holding till co2 turns off..
If I understand correctly what you are describing here you are not yet using the natural surface agitation / outgassing of the tank to stabilise the CO2 at your target level. I would recommend to set the correct CO2 injection rate with your regulator (you observe at what level CO2 stabilises in the tank, then adjust regulator up or down and try next day again).

Happy to help as much as I can, you may want to send me a PM so that we can discuss further details until your CO2 setup is tip top :)


Note: next time(and especially other readers of this post) you may want to drill the hole in the end-cap at the bottom (rather than centred), as this will help for a CO2 pocket to fill the upper half of the tube and optimise its capacity and also to handle a higher water flow without splashing and potentially making noise. It's a detail, not essential as you have a really strong reactor for your tank anyway.
1694388568767.png
 
Last edited:
@Yugang is there any reason turning off my CO2 pump would cause any problems? Would the CO2 pocket cause any chemical reaction with the PVC?
I'd imagine I could save a bit of CO2 if I turn off the pump leaving CO2 in the reactor chamber versus leaving the reactor to run the entire time. I could almost eliminate the time needed to fill the chamber.
 
@Yugang is there any reason turning off my CO2 pump would cause any problems?
I can't see any reason for problems.

Would the CO2 pocket cause any chemical reaction with the PVC?
I am not a chemist, but believe there is not.

I'd imagine I could save a bit of CO2 if I turn off the pump leaving CO2 in the reactor chamber versus leaving the reactor to run the entire time. I could almost eliminate the time needed to fill the chamber.
I am not convinced it will save a lot, but I may be wrong. (CO2 consumption is for >90-95% dependent on the surface outgassing)
When I used my CO2 Spray Bar (same principle as the reactor) with my pH/CO2 controller, I never got any issues with the CO2 ppm 'overshoot' after the controller shut the solenoid off (potentially caused by the remaining CO2 in the spray bar / reactor). I got a very stable pH curve within several hundredth's pH variation, definitely below 0.1 pH. Only in the case that switching off the pump would suppress an overshoot could I see benefits for stability as well as savings of CO2

@Unexpected your system has really good pH logging capability, it would be interesting to see the difference from these curves.
 
Last edited:
I can't see any reason for problems.


I am not a chemist, but believe there is not.


I am not convinced it will save a lot, but I may be wrong. (CO2 consumption is for >90-95% dependent on the surface outgassing)
When I used my CO2 Spray Bar (same principle as the reactor) with my pH/CO2 controller, I never got any issues with the CO2 ppm 'overshoot' after the controller shut the solenoid off (potentially caused by the remaining CO2 in the spray bar / reactor). I got a very stable pH curve within several hundredth's pH variation, definitely below 0.1 pH. Only in the case that switching off the pump would suppress an overshoot could I see benefits for stability as well as savings of CO2

@Unexpected your system has really good pH logging capability, it would be interesting to see the difference from these curves.
I’ll start tomorrow.
 
Came across these while I was looking for something to use as an ATO for my tank. Not sure how well the lids would seal for CO2 reactor purposes. Food for thought incase someone has space issues under the their stand.
 
I am following up on an earlier post regarding using Fluval FX4 as a horizontal CO2 reactor .

1694834370727.png

Today was my FX4 canister monthly cleaning, and I used it to study the design in detail. Unfortunately, unlike what I thought before, injecting CO2 bubbles in the standard and unmodified FX4 intake is IMO not going to give a very good CO2 reactor function. I leave technical details out for clarity of this post, but happy to share in PM.

The good news is that by their unique design, I believe FX4 and FX6 are a very good basis for horizontal reactors, up to some 200 gallon tanks and 1.5 pH drop. Only minor changes needed, and if Fluval prefers not to change their production models, we may develop a DIY guide for FX4/FX6 owners - it will probably take less than an hour work.

Fluval users may get (probably at nearly no extra cost) the most powerful CO2 reactor integrated into their FX4/FX6 canister, and have a significantly simplified, leakproof, technical setup in their cabinet.

I am so happy with my current setup that I have no real drive to start experimenting again. However, I like progress for the hobby, and I like Fluval canisters, so I am willing to help take this further.

My suggestion:

What I can do:
  • Modify a FX6 - probably less than 1 hour work for the first prototype. Function as a filter, or flow, will not be compromised.
  • Test the modified FX6 performance as a horizontal reactor, this will take more time
  • Report on this forum, and report back to Fluval engineers
Fluval:
  • FX6, and perhaps some spare parts for modification and prototype development
  • Donation / sponsorship to ScapeCrunch.
 
Last edited:
Hi so after speaking with yugang I have decided to re make my reactor with an air purge option and lower in let's and out let's.. I also made a few mistakes on my last one so this will be my version 2.

Here are some pictures, I can't get this running for a week or so as I won't be around to monitor it.. as soon as I do I will report back..

Here are some pictures
 

Attachments

  • 20230915_175418.webp
    20230915_175418.webp
    225.7 KB · Views: 25
  • 20230915_180601.webp
    20230915_180601.webp
    266.5 KB · Views: 27
  • 20230915_180625.webp
    20230915_180625.webp
    214 KB · Views: 24
  • 20230915_184914.webp
    20230915_184914.webp
    267.8 KB · Views: 22
  • 20230915_184925.webp
    20230915_184925.webp
    472.8 KB · Views: 24
  • 20230915_202607.webp
    20230915_202607.webp
    1 MB · Views: 25
  • 20230915_202530.webp
    20230915_202530.webp
    336.9 KB · Views: 25
  • 20230915_203555.webp
    20230915_203555.webp
    747.5 KB · Views: 21
  • 20230915_203539.webp
    20230915_203539.webp
    952.8 KB · Views: 22
  • 20230915_203458.webp
    20230915_203458.webp
    618.7 KB · Views: 20
  • 20230915_203451.webp
    20230915_203451.webp
    536.4 KB · Views: 22
  • 20230915_203432.webp
    20230915_203432.webp
    683.4 KB · Views: 23
I am following up on an earlier post regarding using Fluval FX4 as a horizontal CO2 reactor .

View attachment 3072

Today was my FX4 canister monthly cleaning, and I used it to study the design in detail. Unfortunately, unlike what I thought before, injecting CO2 bubbles in the standard and unmodified FX4 intake is IMO not going to give a very good CO2 reactor function. I leave technical details out for clarity of this post, but happy to share in PM.

The good news is that by their unique design, I believe FX4 and FX6 are a very good basis for horizontal reactors, up to some 200 gallon tanks and 1.5 pH drop. Only minor changes needed, and if Fluval prefers not to change their production models, we may develop a DIY guide for FX4/FX6 owners - it will probably take less than an hour work.

Fluval users may get (probably at nearly no extra cost) the most powerful CO2 reactor integrated into their FX4/FX6 canister, and have a significantly simplified, leakproof, technical setup in their cabinet.

I am so happy with my current setup that I have no real drive to start experimenting again. However, I like progress for the hobby, and I like Fluval canisters, so I am willing to help take this further.

My suggestion:

What I can do:
  • Modify a FX6 - probably less than 1 hour work for the first prototype. Function as a filter, or flow, will not be compromised.
  • Test the modified FX6 performance as a horizontal reactor, this will take more time
  • Report on this forum, and report back to Fluval engineers
Fluval:
  • FX6, and perhaps some spare parts for modification and prototype development
  • Donation / sponsorship to ScapeCrunch.

Broadly speaking I see two approaches to integrating a very capable horizontal CO2 reactor in FX4 / FX6.

The 'DIY solution' includes some minor modifications on the currently available product to create CO2 pockets (red coloured in the diagrams) in the top of the canister.

The 'Manufacturer solution' would assume that Fluval designs one extra part (the yellow coloured ring in the diagram) and make the tightening bolds of the canister lid a bit longer. The original lid, grey colour, as well as the rest of FX4 /FX6 can remain (mostly)unchanged.

Hope this sufficiently clarifies the ideas, but obviously some details need to be fixed and the concepts need to be tested. Ideally this could be a retrofit for existing Fluval owners.

1694910418859.png
 
Am I doing it wrong if the reactor is nearly fully of water through out the whole day?
is my pump too fast? think i have about 515 gph going through it right now.


this is how everything is hooked up right now


the grey t-fitting is where the CO2 enriched water goes into the main pump
 
Am I doing it wrong if the reactor is nearly fully of water through out the whole day?
Why don't we see big CO2 bubbles that you are injecting? Did you take ceramic piece out from the inline diffuser that you are using to connect your CO2 tube? If you were to inject micro bubbles, at 500 gallon per hour flow, it would not be impossible that you blow them straight out from you reactor and no gas pocket would build up.


is my pump too fast? think i have about 515 gph going through it right now.
This is indeed a lot, but we can't be sure if this is the main problem.

Take a nice slow gentle flow, perhaps around 1-2 gallon per minute, and make sure you inject big CO2 bubbles. At least initially, no bubbles should escape from the reactor exit and into the tank. Then, start with injecting more than enough CO2 (while observing pH and live stock), and you would see the reactor fill with a pocket of CO2. If I remember correctly, your current build is oversized so you should easily hit 1.5 pH drop from fully outgassed with that. When you got the reactor correctly running, you can start dial down CO2 injection, use your pH controller or CO2 regulator to stabilise at your pH target.

BTW - great technology and very clean setup (y)
 
Last edited:
Why don't we see big CO2 bubbles that you are injecting? Did you take ceramic piece out from the inline diffuser that you are using to connect your CO2 tube? If you were to inject micro bubbles, at 500 gallon per hour flow, it would not be impossible that you blow them straight out from you reactor and no gas pocket would build up.
Yep I removed the ceramic.

This is indeed a lot, but we can't be sure if this is the main problem.

Take a nice slow gentle flow, perhaps around 1-2 gallon per minute, and make sure you inject big CO2 bubbles. At least initially, no bubbles should escape from the reactor exit and into the tank. Then, start with injecting more than enough CO2 (while observing pH and live stock), and you would see the reactor fill with a pocket of CO2. If I remember correctly, your current build is oversized so you should easily hit 1.5 pH drop from fully outgassed with that. When you got the reactor correctly running, you can start dial down CO2 injection, use your pH controller or CO2 regulator to stabilise at your pH target.

BTW - great technology and very clean setup (y)
I'll try increasing the injection rate tomorrow.

For some reason the reactor pushed my injection rate from 6 LPH (100 cc/min) down to 2.5 LPH (33.33 cc/min) on my flow meter.

Edit: I still have a gate valve at the of the reactor line before it goes to the main pump, I guess I try messing with that. It would slow the flow rate in the reactors and also create some pressure.
 
Last edited:
Yep I removed the ceramic.
Do you see bubbles coming into the reactor, and where do they go? CO2 can't just disappear.


For some reason the reactor pushed my injection rate from 6 LPH (100 cc/min) down to 2.5 LPH (33.33 cc/min) on my flow meter.
The reactor is an open system, should not give any significant back pressure to the CO2 flow. Something strange going on here, I suspect some obstruction and/or leak.
 
Do you see bubbles coming into the reactor, and where do they go? CO2 can't just disappear.
Yes co2 go into the reactor and I get some very tiny micro bubbles in the outflows in the display tank every now and then.

The reactor is an open system, should not give any significant back pressure to the CO2 flow. Something strange going on here, I suspect some obstruction and/or leak.
I think the JBL proflora might be the cause of it. It has some type of internal checkvalve near where the co2 tube would go according to their advertising.

 
very tiny micro bubbles in the outflows in the display tank every now and then.
.... while you don't have any gas pocket in your reactor -- this can't be correct imo.
I suspect that you have some obstruction in the CO2 line, and are only injecting small/micro bubbles. You would aim to have larger bubbles injected in the reactor, and these bubbles will rise and gradually create a CO2 reservoir in the upper half of the tube. Only when the reservoir fills about half of the reactor, should you see some small bubbles escape via the exit into your tank.

I think the JBL proflora might be the cause of it.
If you take your CO2 line, you should be able to blow air in the reactor with your mouth and feel hardly any resistance. It looks like you have some obstruction, maybe forgot to remove some part from diffuser, and also that while relying on your flow counter you just don't blow enough CO2 into your reactor. Just my best guess.

In summary, I would 'forget' your flow counter, don't be shy ( :) ), and open your CO2 regulator and start blowing bubbles in your reactor so that you see the CO2 pocket building up.
 
Last edited:
.... while you don't have any gas pocket in your reactor -- this can't be correct imo.
I suspect that you have some obstruction in the CO2 line, and are only injecting some micro bubbles. If everything is fine, you would have larger bubbles injected in the reactor, and these bubbles will rise and gradually create a CO2 reservoir in the upper half of the tube. Only when the reservoir fills about half of the reactor, should you see some small bubbles escape via the exit into your tank.

I would 'forget' your flow counter, don't be shy ( :)), and open your regulator and start blowing bubbles in your reactor so that you see the CO2 pocket building up.
Idk, I still saw a ph drop at least lol.


If you take your CO2 line, you should be able to blow air in the reactor with your mouth and feel hardly any resistance. It looks like you have some obstruction, maybe forgot to remove some part from diffuser, and also that while relying on your flow counter you just don't blow enough CO2 into your reactor.
I cant blow enough air to get a bubble in the reactor with my mouth, think obstruction is at the JBL Proflora or whatever they use as a check valve.

Another thing idea just popped in my head, I think maybe the back pressure could be caused by the water trying to flow into the bubble counter section of JBL Proflora since I removed the ceramic ring that would be at the main section.
 

Top 10 Trending Threads

Back
Top