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Another Yugang post

  • Thread starter Thread starter Nlg1002
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It sounds like you are either overflowing CO2 too much or otherwise losing CO2 straight through the reactor and out as bubbles rather than allowing it to diffuse into the water. Too strong flow through the reactor is a common problem. THese work so much better with nice slow flow - ideally minimal visible surface disturbance. I'm not sure how the Aqua ROcks Colorado ones plumb in, but putting an FX6 outflow through one of these sounds much too strong a flow without a bypass circuit built in to reduce actual flow through the reactor. I suspect you are blowing quite a lot of CO2 bubbles straight through the reactor without diffusing into the water.
Solutions would seem to be either building a bypass circuit to adjust the water flow through the reactor, or using a much slower pump for a separate reactor circuit

Here's my homemade reactor and bypass cicuit ......
with my fx6, would you think id be better off building a bypass in or my other option I have a spare Fluval 206 laying around that I could run though it separately (could buy a small filter/pump if needed). Heres my tank setup that im trying to do all this on.....
 

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I'd recommend a bypass! And see my post here about where the bypass should be:


You can also run two return lines, where one has a valve for slow reactor flow and the other is fully open for max flow. Two return lines in a tank helps with good circular flow, too:

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I'd recommend a bypass! And see my post here about where the bypass should be:


You can also run two return lines, where one has a valve for slow reactor flow and the other is fully open for max flow. Two return lines in a tank helps with good circular flow, too:
I'm still considering a bypass for my ARC small reactor but the trick on those is finding the best fittings to work with ARC's since they're not standard U.S. sizes other than the barbs themslves.
 
I'm still considering a bypass for my ARC small reactor but the trick on those is finding the best fittings to work with ARC's since they're not standard U.S. sizes other than the barbs themslves.
The couplings are 25mm (euro sizing) which you can get all 25mm PVC parts on amazon, OR you can get some 3/4" PVC Union couplings, which will actually fit the existing reactor sizes! I already did this previously and it worked great.

I used these, kept the original "screw ring" from the 25mm size. The flat half of the 3/4" union can sit just fine over the gasketed-side of the existing 25mm union. Tighten them down with the original 25mm screw ring, and you just adapted to 3/4" PVC for your builds.

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