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Help 90g, Dutch style, first try

  • Thread starter Thread starter riioKen
  • Start date Start date
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Ok guys, I'm struggling to make my own ferts.

The macro mix turns brown after a few days (I can’t really tell with the micro since it’s already brown). After 1–2 weeks, mold appears inside the bottles.

The macro solution contains:
E202, E300 (both suggested by IFC Calc), K₂SO₄, KH₂PO₄, and KNO₃.

The micro is Burr’s mix + both E202 and E300.

I’ve remade both my macro and micro solutions.

For the micro, I only added ascorbic acid as Burr suggested, while for the macro I didn’t include either E202 or E300 this time.

We’ll see how it goes in the next few days…
Macros molding is a common problem, mine always have. Ascorbic acid can sometimes fix it, but it will turn the solution brown after a few days. Doesnt hurt anything far as I know, most just dont like it. Weaker acids and also Excel typically arent strong enough to stop the mold in macros.

Use potassium sorbate in the macros at .2 grams per 500 ml. Ascorbic acid for the micros at .5 grams per 500 ml
 
Hi, I have the Netlea and it’s been a solid performer. I’ve been disappointed with their app and translating things into English.

I can’t speak to the other.
 
I have 3 Netlea AT5S and , as stated above, don’t love the app and am worried about customer service. I just bought a new light and went with Week Aqua. I do love the Netlea lights though.
I have 2 AT5S, I concur about the app, but I have gotten used to it. Aqua Rocks Colorado was awesome and texted me some assistance to get it working on android, at first I couldn't get it working and I nuked my tank with way too much light, with it on default. I absolutely love the color and the spread of the AT5s. That is why I got the second one. Well that and Week Aqua didn't sell a 45cm light and I didn't feel like buying their pendant offering.

Curious what power level and settings you use JuJuFIsh?
 
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Hey guys Week Aqua p1200 on the way homeeee...

How to deal with the increase light power?

The p900 has about 7200lm, the new 1200 has 10800lm, around 32% more power.

How to adjust the %? I'll go full blast or do a gradually increase each week? (Around 5-10% per week?).

The p900 is 90cm long, the p1200 is 120cm, my tank is 110cm.

Ill adjust the height a little closer to water surface (right now is around 30cm, I'll take it around to 20-22cm).

The p900 gives 24lm x litre (300lt tank).
The p1209 will give me 36lm x litre.

I'll be able to enrich color and grow better other light intensive plants?

Is it a good buy? Thanks I'm so happy rn
 
Did you do any par measurements with the P900? I would think at higher power levels, it would give you more than enough par to grow anything with plenty of color. Also, moving a bar light closer to the water surface will narrow your spread so you'll have a steeper drop off in par readings from middle of the tank to ends and corners.
 
Did you do any par measurements with the P900? I would think at higher power levels, it would give you more than enough par to grow anything with plenty of color. Also, moving a bar light closer to the water surface will narrow your spread so you'll have a steeper drop off in par readings from middle of the tank to ends and corners.
Do you think moving the light closer to the water surface will not be needed?

I didn't test par but I'll give a try to photone (I have a Samsung device, seems already calibrated)
 
Do you think moving the light closer to the water surface will not be needed?

I didn't test par but I'll give a try to photone (I have a Samsung device, seems already calibrated)
For LED bar lights, I think 8-12 inches above water surface is a good range with 10 being a nice sweet spot. Obviously, the more powerful the light, the higher you can go. Look at video of galleries like Green Aqua's and ADA's. All of their lights are more than 10 inches above the tank, but of course, they're all top end lights. The Week Aqua P series is quite powerful so yeah, I think 10 inches or higher is just fine.
 
I plan to scape better my tank, for now it's more a grow out for plants.
The plants that I have:
  • Lindernia India
  • lysmachia parvofolia Red
  • samolous valerenda (growing)
  • hygrophila chai (growing)
  • rotala indica
  • Eriocaulon quinquangulare
  • Eriocaulon ratnagiricum (small plant)
  • bacopa sazlmanni purple
  • acmella repens
  • nymphea red lotus
  • xyris difformis
  • althernathera reineicki kleines papageinblatt
  • Ammannia pedicellata golden
  • rotala Florida
  • micranthemoides white
  • Ludwigia Meta
  • rotala macrandra variegated

The tank is 110x50x50

1000214481.webp
The one on the right is a hygrophila pinnatifida, I plan to remove it. Java moss too, but I'll use it in another tank.
In the photo, a few plants are missing, they'll ship monday
 
I probably got carried away by enthusiasm, i've collected too many plants:
I want to make a division into background plants, center plants, foreground plants, and those usable as street plants.

Background:
  • rotala macrandra variegated
  • limnophila hippuroides
  • ammannia pedicellata gold
  • hygrophila rigens purple (can be used as street)
  • alternanthera reineckii “kleines papagei”
  • acmella repens
  • alternanthera lilacina
Center:
  • rotala ramosior florida (can be used as street)
  • ludwigia meta (can be used as street)
  • bacopa salzmannii purple
  • lindernia india
  • samolus parviflorus red
  • samolus valerandi
  • cuphea anagalloidea
Front:
  • hemianthus micranthemoides
  • rotala indica bonsai
  • hygrophila pinnatifida
  • java moss
A little square in front
  • eriocaulon quinquangulare
  • eriocaulon ratnagiricum
  • xyris difformis red
Bonus
  • nymphaea lotus
Probably i need to remove something i can't decide which one...
 
CO2 is best kept at 30-40ppm, IMO, regardless of light! CO2 is often the bottleneck for our plant health in many cases (not all, just many).

A tank with high nutrients/aquasoil, medium light, and high CO2 is almost always a guaranteed success. Even low light + CO2 is excellent for our tanks.
 
CO2 is best kept at 30-40ppm, IMO, regardless of light! CO2 is often the bottleneck for our plant health in many cases (not all, just many).

A tank with high nutrients/aquasoil, medium light, and high CO2 is almost always a guaranteed success. Even low light + CO2 is excellent for our tanks.
RN the drop is 1.4 from degassed.

At 1.5 fish start gasping at surface. Probably I need to use double surface skimmer, this way I'll have more oxygen and can push more CO2 in the tank without gassing the fish.
 

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