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About me:
I've been keeping planted aquariums and shrimp breeding tanks for almost a decade and for the majority of that time aquariums were my primary hobby. In 2021 I had ~30 tanks running simultaneously containing almost 200 types of plants that I had collected over a 5 year period and more than a dozen types of shrimp. In this time, it was harder for me to not setup new tanks than it was to grow any aquatic plant sent my way. Below are some of the tanks I've kept over the years.
At the end of 2021 I moved from Texas to Massachusetts and gave away all of my plants, tanks, and shrimp to friends I had made over the years. It took some time to find a permanent place to live so I didn't have any tanks until I was unexpectedly given an ADA 120P in summer of 2023.
The early days of the 120P:
I went through the typical tank start growing pains with a diatoms phase, green hair algae, and every other issue one would expect from a new tank. Even with the new tank difficulties, it only took me 2 months to get to a healthy tank again. For the next 1.5 years, everything went smoothly and the tank went through many iterations.
Setup on June 28th
Diatoms outbreak on July 19th
Green hair algae outbreak by August 18th
Everything was cleaned up and growing great by September 1st
The start of the disaster:
In February 2025, I started running into issues. BBA started growing in small tufts on the substrate and green hair algae started attacking the old growth on the plants. I'd run into this issue in the past and was usually able to fix it pretty quickly by dialing in the CO2, cleaning the substrate, cleaning filters, and replanting only the most healthy tops of the plants. Even after doing this multiple times, I haven't had any luck fixing the algae. It always comes back
The start of the algae
Multiple trim and replant cycles along with some new plants
Relatively clean after a trim and replant cycle
10 days later
Where I am today:
I'm getting so frustrated by the persistent issues that I'm about ready to shut down this tank. As a last ditch effort, I purchased a pack of healthy plants from Burr740 to see if healthy plants can help me get through the algae phase and get back into a good place.
The tank as of January 2nd 2026. The healthiest plants in the tank were received earlier this week from Burr740.
Really poor color on my plants with a lot of green algae on the lower leaves. The nice looking bacopa is from Burr740. The original stems of Bacopa have barely grown in the last month. If I pull them up, there are very few roots.
Another example of the old growth issues. The Limnophila mini vietnam also has not grown at all in the last month. Lots of algae grows on the substrate as well.
Another comparison of Burr's Ludwigia sp. red vs mine. Very slow growth and poor rooting.
Really weak older growth on Rotala sp. singapore and poor coloration compared to Burr's plants. This plant has always been very easy for me to keep and this is part of why I'm thinking there is something big that I'm missing. Didiplis diandra is another easy plant that keeps melting at the base and its making very little progress because of this.
Below is the key information about the tank.
Tank size: ADA 120P (120 cm x 45 cm x 45 cm)
Lighting: 3x NiloCG Prizms ran at the lowest setting for each channel. Lights are on for 7 hours a day. I want to increase the lighting, but any time I do the algae gets significantly worse
Filtration: Oase Biomaster 600 and a SunSun HW-303B. There's a spraybar on the bottom left that points along the length of the tank at substrate level and the other output is on the top right corner of the tank pushing the opposite direction.
CO2: Vertical reactor on the SunSun filter and a Sera reactor on the Oase. CO2 comes on 4 hours before lights on and turns off 1 hr before lights off. Drop checker is yellow when lights turn on. The pH drop is ~1.4-1.5 at lights on (5.8 at lights on and 7.3 when water is fully degassed). Plants start pearling within 10 minutes of the lights coming on.
Substrate: A mix of ADA aquasoil, Fluval stratum, and Controsoil. A bag of Controsoil was added ~2 months ago to try and give the plants a boost. The remaining substrate is from when I setup the tank and is almost certainly not providing much nutrition or buffering capacity.
Water change schedule: Weekly 70-80% water changes with tap water coming from the MWRA (water report here). KH is ~2. GH is less than 1(3.7 PPM Ca, 0.7 PPM Mg based on the report). Water is treated with sodium carbonate at the water treatment plant to increase the pH to ~9.2, but the pH rapidly decreases after the water comes out of the tap. One potential issue is the tap water is extremely cold. It comes out at ~50F and I add a mix of water from the tap along with heated water. The temperature drops to ~60F for 2-3 hours whenever I water change. I don't keep any livestock so I'm not sure if this is a problem. This was not something I needed to consider back in Texas.
Remineralization: I add 22 PPM calcium and 6 PPM magnesium at water change
Fertilization: 20N-6P-26K is added immediately after water change. A second dose at 10N-3P-13K is added halfway through the week. Micros are Burr740's most recent recipe dosed at 0.15 PPM Fe 3x per week.
Temperature: Tank is heated to 73F during the winter. During the more mild parts of the year I remove the heater and go with whatever the ambient temperature is.
It looks like I'm doing everything right on paper and based on my past experience keeping tanks, but there is clearly some major issue ongoing. Right now I'm thinking its inconsistency in the CO2 that I'm just not seeing (I just started the CO2 2 hours earlier last week because I was noticing the drop checker wasn't always yellow at lights on), not enough light, or too cold of water during water changes. I want to keep some records through this journal to keep myself engaged with the tank and to make sure I'm being consistent with everything. I'm also hoping some additional eyes can help me see where I'm going wrong because I really, really miss having a nice looking tank.
I've been keeping planted aquariums and shrimp breeding tanks for almost a decade and for the majority of that time aquariums were my primary hobby. In 2021 I had ~30 tanks running simultaneously containing almost 200 types of plants that I had collected over a 5 year period and more than a dozen types of shrimp. In this time, it was harder for me to not setup new tanks than it was to grow any aquatic plant sent my way. Below are some of the tanks I've kept over the years.
At the end of 2021 I moved from Texas to Massachusetts and gave away all of my plants, tanks, and shrimp to friends I had made over the years. It took some time to find a permanent place to live so I didn't have any tanks until I was unexpectedly given an ADA 120P in summer of 2023.
The early days of the 120P:
I went through the typical tank start growing pains with a diatoms phase, green hair algae, and every other issue one would expect from a new tank. Even with the new tank difficulties, it only took me 2 months to get to a healthy tank again. For the next 1.5 years, everything went smoothly and the tank went through many iterations.
Setup on June 28th
Diatoms outbreak on July 19th
Green hair algae outbreak by August 18th
Everything was cleaned up and growing great by September 1st
The start of the disaster:
In February 2025, I started running into issues. BBA started growing in small tufts on the substrate and green hair algae started attacking the old growth on the plants. I'd run into this issue in the past and was usually able to fix it pretty quickly by dialing in the CO2, cleaning the substrate, cleaning filters, and replanting only the most healthy tops of the plants. Even after doing this multiple times, I haven't had any luck fixing the algae. It always comes back
The start of the algae
Multiple trim and replant cycles along with some new plants
Relatively clean after a trim and replant cycle
10 days later
Where I am today:
I'm getting so frustrated by the persistent issues that I'm about ready to shut down this tank. As a last ditch effort, I purchased a pack of healthy plants from Burr740 to see if healthy plants can help me get through the algae phase and get back into a good place.
The tank as of January 2nd 2026. The healthiest plants in the tank were received earlier this week from Burr740.
Really poor color on my plants with a lot of green algae on the lower leaves. The nice looking bacopa is from Burr740. The original stems of Bacopa have barely grown in the last month. If I pull them up, there are very few roots.
Another example of the old growth issues. The Limnophila mini vietnam also has not grown at all in the last month. Lots of algae grows on the substrate as well.
Another comparison of Burr's Ludwigia sp. red vs mine. Very slow growth and poor rooting.
Really weak older growth on Rotala sp. singapore and poor coloration compared to Burr's plants. This plant has always been very easy for me to keep and this is part of why I'm thinking there is something big that I'm missing. Didiplis diandra is another easy plant that keeps melting at the base and its making very little progress because of this.
Below is the key information about the tank.
Tank size: ADA 120P (120 cm x 45 cm x 45 cm)
Lighting: 3x NiloCG Prizms ran at the lowest setting for each channel. Lights are on for 7 hours a day. I want to increase the lighting, but any time I do the algae gets significantly worse
Filtration: Oase Biomaster 600 and a SunSun HW-303B. There's a spraybar on the bottom left that points along the length of the tank at substrate level and the other output is on the top right corner of the tank pushing the opposite direction.
CO2: Vertical reactor on the SunSun filter and a Sera reactor on the Oase. CO2 comes on 4 hours before lights on and turns off 1 hr before lights off. Drop checker is yellow when lights turn on. The pH drop is ~1.4-1.5 at lights on (5.8 at lights on and 7.3 when water is fully degassed). Plants start pearling within 10 minutes of the lights coming on.
Substrate: A mix of ADA aquasoil, Fluval stratum, and Controsoil. A bag of Controsoil was added ~2 months ago to try and give the plants a boost. The remaining substrate is from when I setup the tank and is almost certainly not providing much nutrition or buffering capacity.
Water change schedule: Weekly 70-80% water changes with tap water coming from the MWRA (water report here). KH is ~2. GH is less than 1(3.7 PPM Ca, 0.7 PPM Mg based on the report). Water is treated with sodium carbonate at the water treatment plant to increase the pH to ~9.2, but the pH rapidly decreases after the water comes out of the tap. One potential issue is the tap water is extremely cold. It comes out at ~50F and I add a mix of water from the tap along with heated water. The temperature drops to ~60F for 2-3 hours whenever I water change. I don't keep any livestock so I'm not sure if this is a problem. This was not something I needed to consider back in Texas.
Remineralization: I add 22 PPM calcium and 6 PPM magnesium at water change
Fertilization: 20N-6P-26K is added immediately after water change. A second dose at 10N-3P-13K is added halfway through the week. Micros are Burr740's most recent recipe dosed at 0.15 PPM Fe 3x per week.
Temperature: Tank is heated to 73F during the winter. During the more mild parts of the year I remove the heater and go with whatever the ambient temperature is.
It looks like I'm doing everything right on paper and based on my past experience keeping tanks, but there is clearly some major issue ongoing. Right now I'm thinking its inconsistency in the CO2 that I'm just not seeing (I just started the CO2 2 hours earlier last week because I was noticing the drop checker wasn't always yellow at lights on), not enough light, or too cold of water during water changes. I want to keep some records through this journal to keep myself engaged with the tank and to make sure I'm being consistent with everything. I'm also hoping some additional eyes can help me see where I'm going wrong because I really, really miss having a nice looking tank.
113 replies
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8264 views
Journal 80cm (32”) collectoritis tank
I have rarely kept journals for my tanks, mostly because I tend to not think about it until it’s too late. I have missed the jump on this one too, but as it has only been running for 2-3 months now I think it’s newish enough to start a journal.
Tank:
80cm x 45cm x 40cm (32” x 18” x 16”)
About 130L of water, or 34 US gallons.
I upgraded from a 60L tank that had been running for about 7 years, fairly steadily. I have always enjoyed smaller tanks and so kept this upgrade fairly modest.
Here is a picture of the tank as it is today:
As you can see, I suffer from collectoritis, and have definitely prioritised lots of plant species over ‘scaping’. One of the joys for me in this hobby is growing lots of different plants, so I tend to end up with jungles with many different stems.
The tank is just beginning to stabilise now, with the fresh soil finally not messing around with the water parameters so violently.
I use remineralised RO water cut slightly with tap water at the moment, as I find that ‘matures’ the soil faster in the beginning of a tank.
Below is the running sheet for this tank, which gives a good idea of the water parameters.
Tank:
80cm x 45cm x 40cm (32” x 18” x 16”)
About 130L of water, or 34 US gallons.
I upgraded from a 60L tank that had been running for about 7 years, fairly steadily. I have always enjoyed smaller tanks and so kept this upgrade fairly modest.
Here is a picture of the tank as it is today:
As you can see, I suffer from collectoritis, and have definitely prioritised lots of plant species over ‘scaping’. One of the joys for me in this hobby is growing lots of different plants, so I tend to end up with jungles with many different stems.
The tank is just beginning to stabilise now, with the fresh soil finally not messing around with the water parameters so violently.
I use remineralised RO water cut slightly with tap water at the moment, as I find that ‘matures’ the soil faster in the beginning of a tank.
Below is the running sheet for this tank, which gives a good idea of the water parameters.
57 replies
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2610 views
Journal 20 gallon Rotala florida tank
I have always liked Rotala florida as plant due to its strongly colored leaves, but realized that I haven't actually aquascaped much with it - meaning to integrate it as part of a layout and not just growing a bunch of it in farm/collector style tank. Using plants in a layout in tighter bunches, and in competition with surrounding plants/hardscape is much harder than growing it farm style in a single patch - it also means be able to shape/trim the bushes to match the overall curves of the layout.
Back in 2016 or so when I first received Rotala florida samples from north america, I could only grow it in sparser bunches. It looked nice in macro photographs but I could not envision using it an bush that would show off well as part of a layout unless I can grow it much denser. In the recent years, there were two main discoveries that I found in my experimentation, the first is that it grows better in moderate GH (5 dGH+) compared to super soft water (say <3dGH), and that it grew better in certain soil mixes (I experimented with different garden soil mixes when engineering the composition of APT Feast). Eventually I integrated some of the soil data into APT Feast's composition, and paired with the higher power lights readily available today, I find that I could finally grow the plant the way I envisioned as part of overall layout. I could prune it dense, as the base stems were healthy enough to sprout dense side shoots after trimming - and the secondary/tertiary shoot tips were as fully colored and sized similar to a primary shoot tip that hasn't been subjected to topping yet.
As a midground stem, it works very well due to its slower growth rate vs other colored stem plants.
Against the deep purple of Rotala florida, I found that Golden white clouds worked quite well. So now they are the main inhabitants of the tank.
Tank this week (25/6/2025)
Tank started out like this:
A week or 2 after initial planting (5/5/2025). I reused old aquasoil from the previous scape, so I planted all plants up front rather than waiting more time for the tank to stabilize, with the idea that I could out-grow any algae issues. Initially wanted to add H. Chai but it really didn't fit the overall color scheme, and the bushes by the side were too invasive to be compatible with having a chai patch I think.
Since it was going to contain Rotala florida, I thought I might as well throw in other high demand troublesome species such as the Red Eriocaulon quinguangulare, blood vomit. I settled on Rotala tulunadensis for the background as I wanted something dense and shapeable.
Tank specs:
60x36x36cm
Filter: Oase biomaster 250, all sponge media
CO2 injected through inline atomizer
Substrate: APT Feast
Water column: APT Sky to raise GH to 5dGH, 2ml of APTe per day.
Light distance. Interestingly, not crazy high PAR - just around 200-250 umols PAR at the substrate level.
Trimming and shaping: Most bushes were shaped by cutting individual outlier shoots one by one. Only Rotala blood red and the Rotala tulunadensis was straight trimmed across the entire top once.
This is how the Rotala tulunadensis looked like after a straight trim on 29/5/2025. About 3 weeks from when the top picture at top of this page was taken. It took the plant a whole week + to show new shoots. It seems straight trimming slows down the plant quite a bit, but allows for a very dense & neat canopy afterwards.
There are some interesting plants stuffed here and there. Some Eriocaulon caulescens? bolivia? that local hobbyists passed on to me. Carved out a patch for Syngonanthus vichada - slow grower, but the couple of babies that came have doubled in size so I think they should be alright. I think I will move them to a larger tank with more space.
Only discovered the color combination with the Golden white clouds when the tank matured, but its one of my favourite fish-plant combinations now. I think that while some of the species are a bit picky about growth conditions, one thing I really like about this tank is that most things have moderate/slow growth rates, which makes maintenance with regards to removing excess growth less tedious.
Elatine triandra is used as a low growing green filler plant - it does this role well. As it does not root very deeply, I can easily cut and pull off excess growth easily. Its the fasting growing plant in the layout that requires frequent removal of excess growth.
Some more close-ups.
I'm trying to replicate concepts of this layout (slowing growing bushes) into my 4ft tank.
Back in 2016 or so when I first received Rotala florida samples from north america, I could only grow it in sparser bunches. It looked nice in macro photographs but I could not envision using it an bush that would show off well as part of a layout unless I can grow it much denser. In the recent years, there were two main discoveries that I found in my experimentation, the first is that it grows better in moderate GH (5 dGH+) compared to super soft water (say <3dGH), and that it grew better in certain soil mixes (I experimented with different garden soil mixes when engineering the composition of APT Feast). Eventually I integrated some of the soil data into APT Feast's composition, and paired with the higher power lights readily available today, I find that I could finally grow the plant the way I envisioned as part of overall layout. I could prune it dense, as the base stems were healthy enough to sprout dense side shoots after trimming - and the secondary/tertiary shoot tips were as fully colored and sized similar to a primary shoot tip that hasn't been subjected to topping yet.
As a midground stem, it works very well due to its slower growth rate vs other colored stem plants.
Against the deep purple of Rotala florida, I found that Golden white clouds worked quite well. So now they are the main inhabitants of the tank.
Tank this week (25/6/2025)
Tank started out like this:
A week or 2 after initial planting (5/5/2025). I reused old aquasoil from the previous scape, so I planted all plants up front rather than waiting more time for the tank to stabilize, with the idea that I could out-grow any algae issues. Initially wanted to add H. Chai but it really didn't fit the overall color scheme, and the bushes by the side were too invasive to be compatible with having a chai patch I think.
Since it was going to contain Rotala florida, I thought I might as well throw in other high demand troublesome species such as the Red Eriocaulon quinguangulare, blood vomit. I settled on Rotala tulunadensis for the background as I wanted something dense and shapeable.
Tank specs:
60x36x36cm
Filter: Oase biomaster 250, all sponge media
CO2 injected through inline atomizer
Substrate: APT Feast
Water column: APT Sky to raise GH to 5dGH, 2ml of APTe per day.
Light distance. Interestingly, not crazy high PAR - just around 200-250 umols PAR at the substrate level.
Trimming and shaping: Most bushes were shaped by cutting individual outlier shoots one by one. Only Rotala blood red and the Rotala tulunadensis was straight trimmed across the entire top once.
This is how the Rotala tulunadensis looked like after a straight trim on 29/5/2025. About 3 weeks from when the top picture at top of this page was taken. It took the plant a whole week + to show new shoots. It seems straight trimming slows down the plant quite a bit, but allows for a very dense & neat canopy afterwards.
There are some interesting plants stuffed here and there. Some Eriocaulon caulescens? bolivia? that local hobbyists passed on to me. Carved out a patch for Syngonanthus vichada - slow grower, but the couple of babies that came have doubled in size so I think they should be alright. I think I will move them to a larger tank with more space.
Only discovered the color combination with the Golden white clouds when the tank matured, but its one of my favourite fish-plant combinations now. I think that while some of the species are a bit picky about growth conditions, one thing I really like about this tank is that most things have moderate/slow growth rates, which makes maintenance with regards to removing excess growth less tedious.
Elatine triandra is used as a low growing green filler plant - it does this role well. As it does not root very deeply, I can easily cut and pull off excess growth easily. Its the fasting growing plant in the layout that requires frequent removal of excess growth.
Some more close-ups.
I'm trying to replicate concepts of this layout (slowing growing bushes) into my 4ft tank.
209 replies
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22916 views
It is really weird when a Dutch tank has this particular problem. My friend faced this problem for some weird reason.
Here is tank info
- Water changes in Sunday, 30% with RO
Except Elatine Triandra, ALL of his plant is developing really well meanwhile ET develops serious sign of nitrate deficiency despite everything else, so i am very confused.
Here is tank info
- 40*35*35
- 1.4 W/L ( using mostly red/blue light) 8 hours lighting continously,
- CO2 "green" ( it is not possible to measure CO2 level but the indicator is lime green, m
- pH is 6.5, kH is 3.4
- Temp in avg is 27
- Nitrate level unknow (Probably low). Ammonia 0
- Water changes in Sunday, 30% with RO
Except Elatine Triandra, ALL of his plant is developing really well meanwhile ET develops serious sign of nitrate deficiency despite everything else, so i am very confused.
0 replies
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14 views
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Legacy View
Announcement Social Feed
Hi all,
You may have seen my posts about the benefits of our forum format versus the deluge of social media feeds. We learn and connect better with the ability to post longer posts that are archived and we can go back to in order to continue conversations. The constant stream of social media feeds makes this mostly impossible.
However, there are times when scrolling the never-ending social media feed is welcomed. For example, you're standing in the grocery checkout line and it's taking forever. You take out your phone to entertain yourself and you just want to scroll and see what's been posted to see if anything interesting catches your eye.
In this situation, a social media feed is better than the archival structure of a forum because there is less back and forth that you need to do. Simply use your thumb to scroll and pause on what is interesting to you.
I'm happy to announce that we now have a way to do both on ScapeCrunch. On your mobile device, if you click on the sandwich navigation icon at the bottom left, you will now find Social Feed towards the top. Click on it and it will take you to a feed of the newest posts made to the site. Simply scroll to see the list and click on whatever interests you.
If you do not like social feeds, forget about this post and that the option is there. Just don't use it and nothing changes for you. Our site structure remains as the homepage and you can use it like you've always done. The Social Feed is just an option for those that want to use it from time to time.
I hope this improves the ScapeCrunch experience for some of you, especially when you're bored in the grocery checkout line.
Thanks for being a valuable member of our growing community.
All the best,
Art
P.S., the Social Feed is only available on mobile devices.
You may have seen my posts about the benefits of our forum format versus the deluge of social media feeds. We learn and connect better with the ability to post longer posts that are archived and we can go back to in order to continue conversations. The constant stream of social media feeds makes this mostly impossible.
However, there are times when scrolling the never-ending social media feed is welcomed. For example, you're standing in the grocery checkout line and it's taking forever. You take out your phone to entertain yourself and you just want to scroll and see what's been posted to see if anything interesting catches your eye.
In this situation, a social media feed is better than the archival structure of a forum because there is less back and forth that you need to do. Simply use your thumb to scroll and pause on what is interesting to you.
I'm happy to announce that we now have a way to do both on ScapeCrunch. On your mobile device, if you click on the sandwich navigation icon at the bottom left, you will now find Social Feed towards the top. Click on it and it will take you to a feed of the newest posts made to the site. Simply scroll to see the list and click on whatever interests you.
If you do not like social feeds, forget about this post and that the option is there. Just don't use it and nothing changes for you. Our site structure remains as the homepage and you can use it like you've always done. The Social Feed is just an option for those that want to use it from time to time.
I hope this improves the ScapeCrunch experience for some of you, especially when you're bored in the grocery checkout line.
Thanks for being a valuable member of our growing community.
All the best,
Art
P.S., the Social Feed is only available on mobile devices.
0 replies
·
22 views
replies
Legacy View
I would love for us to conclusively determine and decide what is the best way to ship a plant.
The plant: fresh cutting of stem plant grown submersed.
The objective: send my fresh cutting from Miami to my friend in Seattle with as little damage to the plant as possible, for as cheaply as possible.
What is the best way for me to package and ship the plant?
The plant: fresh cutting of stem plant grown submersed.
The objective: send my fresh cutting from Miami to my friend in Seattle with as little damage to the plant as possible, for as cheaply as possible.
What is the best way for me to package and ship the plant?
23 replies
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1411 views
Apparently we are supposed to discuss nutrients? NUTRIENT TUNNEL VISION....
I think the audience gets to ask questions, though you can do the same here any day ha.
3 replies
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39 views
As I've mentioned one or two times before, I can't resist a bargain. Pictured are 8 Dwyer RMA-151 valveless flow meters. Brand new, these run $65 to over $100 but used on Ebay - $11 each. Yes, you read that right, $11. I just received them today and want to confirm each one works, but I won't need all 8. I'm thinking I will keep 5 and the remaining 3, I will offer up here to 3 people at the $11 I paid plus whatever shipping is, which would probably be $10 to $15 (within U.S.). Give me some time to confirm all are functional over the coming week and then I'll give the green light, first 3 to ask after the green light will get them.
28 replies
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874 views
I have been sitting with hardscaping this UNS 90u tank (35.43”L x 22.”W x 22”H) for about 5 weeks. It's tall and deep and I have a perfect view of it from my office desk at the perfect height! The plan is for a high tech, heavily planted tank. I have a big load of different varieties of bucephalandra and anubias arriving in a few weeks that should go great on this hardscape and I am building my plan for the other plants. Here are my final 3 drafts on the hardscape. I am afraid the upper middle quadrant of the tank may have too much empty space being held with leggy stem plants growing towards the light. #1 and #3 seem to be the best choices, with #3 seeming the best. I need to finalize and get this tank filled with water! Any critiques from this experienced bunch?
Substrate: Gravel with root tabs
CO2: Yes
Light: Chirios WRGB2 Pro 90
Hardscapre: Dragon Stone and Driftwood
Filter: Oase Biomaster 2 600 (already fishless cycling on 20 gallon tub from home depot)
I appreciate the feedback.
Substrate: Gravel with root tabs
CO2: Yes
Light: Chirios WRGB2 Pro 90
Hardscapre: Dragon Stone and Driftwood
Filter: Oase Biomaster 2 600 (already fishless cycling on 20 gallon tub from home depot)
I appreciate the feedback.
9 replies
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93 views
Hi to all!
I clean only my front glass weekly. I just let algae (GSA and a bit of GDA) and biofilm grow on the other sides. I am a bit lazy and moreover I wanted to leave some free food for snails and now for my Otos. They were so skinny when I bought them, now they are pretty fat, they look like tadpoles! But the thing is I am getting BBA too on the rear and side glass recently.
About plants, GSA and BBA are only growing on old leaves, mainly of the slow growers. I keep removing those leaves, I remove organics from substrate etc and I am working on my CO2/ferts/lights things. But, excluding aesthetic reason, letting algae grow on the glass makes them "stronger"? I am afraid that it might make me harder to grow plants with little or no algae on their leaves if I have a colony on the glass.
I clean only my front glass weekly. I just let algae (GSA and a bit of GDA) and biofilm grow on the other sides. I am a bit lazy and moreover I wanted to leave some free food for snails and now for my Otos. They were so skinny when I bought them, now they are pretty fat, they look like tadpoles! But the thing is I am getting BBA too on the rear and side glass recently.
About plants, GSA and BBA are only growing on old leaves, mainly of the slow growers. I keep removing those leaves, I remove organics from substrate etc and I am working on my CO2/ferts/lights things. But, excluding aesthetic reason, letting algae grow on the glass makes them "stronger"? I am afraid that it might make me harder to grow plants with little or no algae on their leaves if I have a colony on the glass.
0 replies
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24 views
replies
Legacy View
I don't know why but I like the look of my Hygrophila Polysperma. I read it may be a 'sunset' or 'Rosanervig' variety. I like the way the initial plant has the big leaves and the newly formed plants at what should be the base are bunched together in smaller leaves. It's also starting to grow long roots which will be nice for the fish to swim through. Sorry I'm terrible at pictures.
3 replies
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187 views