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Question of the Day What type of lighting do you have and why?

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I should mention that people on reef2reef are complaining that one of the reef version of the blade is not balance - that is one side has a different level than the other and this has been confirmed by multiple people. I believe it is one of the blue versions; not being a reef guy i've not paid attention to their spectrum requirements but they are not happy with the blade - not sure if it is a specific length or all of them.
 
I'm running Orphek iCon Atlantik lights on all of my larger enclosures. They're by far the brightest and most productive lights I've ever owned. They do freshwater spectrum as a special order. I've got 2 of the large on my 180, one large on my big pal, and a small one on my smaller pal.

In the past I've had BuildMyLED, black box LEDs from Mars Aqua (seems to be defunct now), MicMol LEDs. Way back my first low-tech had a mainland double bright LED, and I use various Finnex models or ONF Flat Nano on my small terrariums currently.

Shown below are the Orphek Atlantik lights.
I'd like to update this post with some more recent information about my Atlantiks.
I originally bought 2 of the 36" (large) lights for my 180. Then I purchased another large light for my big paludarium. Lastly a small for my small pal.

Since last winter, both paludarium lights had one of the LED channels go out, requiring the LED board be replaced. Late last week, one of the LED channels went out in the 180g large panel. It has been the -same- chain of LEDs in every single one of the lights, and all of them have to have the LEDs replaced.

The company gives you two options. If you can find out which LED, they'll send you an LED for free and you can solder it in yourself. Or, they'll ship you a new board. Under the 1-year warranty, it's free. Out of warranty (like my most recent failure), the panel is ~$300 for the large light.

In order to get them to send you a warranty part, or sell you a new board, you have to take apart the light and go through a plug-swapping procedure with the light to figure out if it's the PC controller board or the LED panel.

It takes 4-6 weeks to get the parts from China. The light then has to be taken apart again. Oh, and they don't supply you with the thermal compound that has to be applied to the entire LED board when you put it in.

I really don't know how to feel about all of this. Maybe a 2-light FW planted tank just isn't their target market? I don't keep salt tanks, but I've seen some of the setups on those, and the amount of lights is shocking. I suppose that by the time you've shelled out that kind of $, replacing a $1k light doesn't bother you, so you just order it and call it a day. I really don't know. I do know that I'm beyond disappointed.

Just wanted folks to be aware of the Customer Support and reliability experience I've had with Orphek.
 
I measured the par of the blade on my 29 (30 inch unit) this morning; at the very top just under the light it was 500; at the bottom of the 29 which was approx 15 inches (2 inches for substrate and 1 inch for the sensor) it was at 60; this is with the light set to 65%; so if the ramp up is linear at 100% we would presume the par would be around 90 at the bottom of the 29.
Glad you got some measurements! I have mine mounted but that tank project has stalled and I haven't looked at the light with water in the tank. Given my recent experiences with Orphek I may end up giving the lights a try on my 180 next time I have to buy. Probably need 3-4 to match up with those damned Atlantiks. Along with a hanging kit, that pushes the cost higher, but if reliability is better it's worth it.
 
Glad you got some measurements! I have mine mounted but that tank project has stalled and I haven't looked at the light with water in the tank. Given my recent experiences with Orphek I may end up giving the lights a try on my 180 next time I have to buy. Probably need 3-4 to match up with those damned Atlantiks. Along with a hanging kit, that pushes the cost higher, but if reliability is better it's worth it.
The lights have screw holes at the end - so you could probably rig your own hanging solution with wire - also the hanging kits are not yet available.
 
The lights have screw holes at the end - so you could probably rig your own hanging solution with wire - also the hanging kits are not yet available.
That's true about the M8 end sockets/screws. I bought the AI HMS Hanging Kit and and Multi-Light Track from BulkReefSupply back when I made my post about ordering the light. It worked fine and is visually appealing, but without a completely different arrangement I'm restricted to one light. I'm a horrible engineer. 😅
 
That's true about the M8 end sockets/screws. I bought the AI HMS Hanging Kit and and Multi-Light Track from BulkReefSupply back when I made my post about ordering the light. It worked fine and is visually appealing, but without a completely different arrangement I'm restricted to one light. I'm a horrible engineer. 😅
So did you buy this product:
+
this product:
 
So did you buy this product:
+
this product:
That's correct. I'll shoot a couple photos later in the day
 
yea i'd like to see the photos; having said that having to spend $300 to hang 2 4 foot lights (my case not nec. yours); would make my head spin.
Yeah, the hanging kits are solidly in that saltwater equipment pricing bracket -- lots of pain.
In retrospect, I probably would have been better off just getting a bolt that fits the end socket of the light and hanging something from that.
I'll be curious to see what they do with the official "blade hanging kit" if it ever arrives.
 
Yeah, the hanging kits are solidly in that saltwater equipment pricing bracket -- lots of pain.
In retrospect, I probably would have been better off just getting a bolt that fits the end socket of the light and hanging something from that.
I'll be curious to see what they do with the official "blade hanging kit" if it ever arrives.
Here's the way I handled the hanging kit. When you buy the kit, there's another piece that attaches to an adjustable vertical cable with an anchor for ceiling/cabinet/whatever. It was way Too long for my super narrow space so I had to remove it and place hooks for the simple loops. Waste of the cost of the hanging kit. My original plan was to use completely different lights for this tank, but when I changed the build purpose away from planted everything went out the window.

For contrast, I'll include a picture of how I hang up the other big lights I use on my 180. The hanging kit was included with these lights. I added the plant hangers to allow me to move the lights up and down during maintenance on the tank.
 

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Here's the way I handled the hanging kit. When you buy the kit, there's another piece that attaches to an adjustable vertical cable with an anchor for ceiling/cabinet/whatever. It was way Too long for my super narrow space so I had to remove it and place hooks for the simple loops. Waste of the cost of the hanging kit. My original plan was to use completely different lights for this tank, but when I changed the build purpose away from planted everything went out the window.

For contrast, I'll include a picture of how I hang up the other big lights I use on my 180. The hanging kit was included with these lights. I added the plant hangers to allow me to move the lights up and down during maintenance on the tank.
I like fluval solution better (plant 3.0); for $26 you get a clip for both ends of the light and wire that hangs on the ceiling.
 
I like fluval solution better (plant 3.0); for $26 you get a clip for both ends of the light and wire that hangs on the ceiling.
The clips holding the Blade to the mounting rail could probably do the same thing. It would work if you have something at the right height to attach them
 
for my co2 tanks i use :

Chihiros RGBplus 451 for a 50L/13G

Odyssea 24w 4 bulb fixture with ATI purple, Dennerle 3000K and Sylvania grolux for a 80L/24G (used to have 1 giessman flora and 1 ATI but the giessman stopped working after 3 years and im done buying T5 bulbs)

WeekAqua 90cm L series for a 80L/21G, i use only about 20% of this fixture's power, its pretty strong and has a nice cover (16cm wide) for a led bar.

WeekAqua 90cm M series for a 160L/42G, this one is on full power, i made a mistake and bought the button version, when using the button version you cannot use your own timer because the fixture 'forgets' what you set it for and it turns on to a default setting on 100%.
 
I have many tanks and many different lights
Week Aqua so far my favorite P1200 over my 70
Chihiros WRGB2 i have it maxed out on my 20 Long tank
Chihiros wrgb+
Chihiros slim
MicMol
Prixzm

I want to try T-5 on my 70 because that’s another light I have maxed out.
Also on my 20 I want to try the Netlea

I am a gadget guy
My 20 for tax
 

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Copyright: Viktor Lantos and Green Aqua

With so many options out there today, what type of light are you using and why?​


My preferred at the moment is a Twinstar full-spectrum LED with expandable feet. Worked wonderful and it was set it and forget it.

Best,

Art
I use two Chihiro's Vivid Mini's on my favorite tank. It's a 72 gallon Waterbox. I absolutely love Chihiros lights. They grow plants beautifully and are customizable.
 

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Just had 2 channels fail on another Orphek iCon light. I'm done.

Last one was $300 to replace the board out of warranty, they shipped the saltwater board and I had to wait again, then they had me ship the boards back to their rep in the US, who then had to ask me to confirm if I sent the board as they didn't keep it labeled as to who sent it nor when it arrived.

They're absolutely fantastic lights when they're running right, but for that kind of $ I expect more than 2 years of function.
 
I was close to buy chihiros WRGB2 Pro 90, but @Unexpected suggested me Week Aqua P900. I bought it and it's a great light with nice features (fans and UV LEDs)
SKY20231208_123811.jpg

I'm still thinking about chihiros WRGB2 Pro, but I'd wait for chihiros when they'll drop WRGB3 pro, meanwhile I plan to push this light to 100% with stable growth and no algae before even thinking to buy a stronger light
 

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