I have a Hanna co2 kit but trying to see if a ph meter might be more helpful to see the drop. Let me which ones you use.
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Ph meter recommendations ?
- Thread starter Sb1415
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Apera PH60. You want to be able to measure within 0.01, and their customer service is by far the most stellar I have ever experienced!
techman81
Well-known Member
I have THIS one from Hannah.
It was not this crazy expensive when I got it. I'm sure there are ones just as good for cheaper.
You could always get the CO2 test kit from Hannah or Lamotte. It's easy to use and per Dennis Wong tests, pretty accurate.
It was not this crazy expensive when I got it. I'm sure there are ones just as good for cheaper.
You could always get the CO2 test kit from Hannah or Lamotte. It's easy to use and per Dennis Wong tests, pretty accurate.
+1 for the Apera pH60.
But be aware that pH drop isn't a foolproof method and is dependent on the KH of your tank. Lower KH tanks will "require" a larger drop, but is it 1.3? 1.5?
If your KH is between 2-6, a 1.0pH drop is a good measure for ~30ppm CO2, that's true.
The Hanna test kit is better for getting actual ppm measurements, while a pH reading can help you track the "curve" of your injection rate vs off-gassing, to help find how long during your photoperiod you hit your equilibrium point between injection.
But be aware that pH drop isn't a foolproof method and is dependent on the KH of your tank. Lower KH tanks will "require" a larger drop, but is it 1.3? 1.5?
If your KH is between 2-6, a 1.0pH drop is a good measure for ~30ppm CO2, that's true.
The Hanna test kit is better for getting actual ppm measurements, while a pH reading can help you track the "curve" of your injection rate vs off-gassing, to help find how long during your photoperiod you hit your equilibrium point between injection.
- Thread starter
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Thanks Rocco. Can one use the Hanna test kit for tracking the curve as well? Mine went from 30 ppm around 2 hrs from co2 injection to 50 ppm before it turned off. The fish were fine. But my plants seems to pearl more with the 50 rather than the 30. Before making more adjustments wanted to make sure i use some other method to confirm. The drop checker seems unreliable and hard for me to judge. The ph probes seem more expensive than I was expecting, want to make sure it is worth it.
Yeah of course! An easy way is to just start your injection early, like 5am early. Take a reading around 7am, then 10am, etc.
If it plateaus at 50ppm, that's too much. Slightly close your needle valve. Try again the next morning. If it plateaus at 30ppm you're good to go.
Many users don't realize that tanks should be close to 30ppm before the lights even come on, but shouldn't massively overshoot to 50ppm by the afternoon. To do so, it's usually a combination of reducing your injection rate, but starting injection earlier in the day.
On my big tank, I start injection at 5am, even though my lights come on at 9am.
By 9am it's at about 30ppm, and by noon it's about 35ppm. It won't pass 40ppm because I found that with my current lily pipe/regulator/surface agitation setup, it maxes out at 40ppm.
Remember that the only real reason we don't inject CO2 24/7 is to save it. Some hobbyists DO inject 24/7. Inhabitants can thrive at 30ppm CO2 as long as there is some surface agitation. If I left my CO2 running 24/7, it would max out at 40ppm.
The whole point is, using either a PH reading or CO2 test kit reading to discover how long it takes your CO2 to reach equilibrium is just as important as the ppm reading itself.
Far too many hobbyists have blue drop checkers in the morning and yellow ones in the evening. Technically your drop checkers should be some green color for the entire duration of the photoperiod.
Hope this makes sense!
If it plateaus at 50ppm, that's too much. Slightly close your needle valve. Try again the next morning. If it plateaus at 30ppm you're good to go.
Many users don't realize that tanks should be close to 30ppm before the lights even come on, but shouldn't massively overshoot to 50ppm by the afternoon. To do so, it's usually a combination of reducing your injection rate, but starting injection earlier in the day.
On my big tank, I start injection at 5am, even though my lights come on at 9am.
By 9am it's at about 30ppm, and by noon it's about 35ppm. It won't pass 40ppm because I found that with my current lily pipe/regulator/surface agitation setup, it maxes out at 40ppm.
Remember that the only real reason we don't inject CO2 24/7 is to save it. Some hobbyists DO inject 24/7. Inhabitants can thrive at 30ppm CO2 as long as there is some surface agitation. If I left my CO2 running 24/7, it would max out at 40ppm.
The whole point is, using either a PH reading or CO2 test kit reading to discover how long it takes your CO2 to reach equilibrium is just as important as the ppm reading itself.
Far too many hobbyists have blue drop checkers in the morning and yellow ones in the evening. Technically your drop checkers should be some green color for the entire duration of the photoperiod.
Hope this makes sense!
One thing I'd keep in mind when you are looking to purchase one is look for one you can replace the probe. They actually lose their sensitivity after a year.
techman81
Well-known Member
Important to keep storage solution in the cap so the probe doesn't sit dry for long periods. That will definitely shorten the life span.
Also this but they are just a wear part. Hilariously enough I work in the calibration field hence my knowledge behind it.
Do any of you have a recommendation for a continuous ph monitor preferably with Bluetooth or WiFi with phone app? What I’m looking for is a way to alarm if ph rises above a programmable set point which would likely indicate co2 is empty.
Eheim just came out with this in 2024 I think, you can use it for just monitoring or with additional parts as a CO2 controller
pHcontrol+e PH Controller - Eheim
Haven't seen any reviews on it, but GreenAqua stocks it, that's something
Or for a next level expandable and bulletproof controller, the standard is probably Neptune Apex Junior
A3 Apex Jr Aquarium Controller System
A3 Apex Jr: Aquarium Monitoring for All Essential Monitoring of Temperature, pH, and Water Levels Leak Detection Sensor Included Expandable: Add on other Apex Modules to Expand Your System Built-In WiFi & Remote Access via Apex Fusion Notifications when Parameters Fall Outside Set Safe Zones...
www.bulkreefsupply.com
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