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Journal Greggz 120G Rainbow Fish Tank - Part Deux!

  • Thread starter Thread starter GreggZ
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The one thing that is constant is change. Added a little more green and moved things around a bit. It's looking pretty much like a farm tank lately, but it's what I got.

I am sure it will look different next week!!Posted 2-4-2024.webp
 
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I've said before the one thing about learning to grow plants is that they grow.....a lot! And did you ever wonder what happens when you neglect a high light stem tank for a couple weeks? Last weekend I didn't have time to do my usual trim, so I had to let it go until today. So here's the mess I started with at about 9:00 this morning. Yeah it's a mess an not pretty. Many plants are all the way to the top of the 26" tall tank and wrapping over the surface. But this is the reality with a tank like this......it takes a lot of care. So it was time for some good old fashioned elbow grease this morning.

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I went at it pretty much like Edward Scissorhands for two hours. Probably pulled most every group in the tank and did a lot of gravel vacuuming. Here's the aftermath.....once I got going did not worry too much about hitting the bucket.

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Next pump 70 gallons of tank water down the basement drain. Actually took it down even a little deeper today as I made a real mess in there.

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Now time to refill. You can see the RO water being pumped up from the basement storage tanks at the back right of tank. The nice thing I can just sit and watch it go.

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So started at 9:00am and got completely done at about 11:30. Really mowed everything down and it will look more in peak shape in about 4 days or so.

So let that be a warning to be careful what you wish for. A high energy tank needs a lot of attention. It's not all glamour. Takes some hard work. I find the process therapeutic and calming. If you don't might not be the style of tank for you!


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26" tall tank
Where did you get a pair of extra tall arms to manage this?
I am serious, when buying a tank I do check if I can reach to the bottom, so how troublesome is this for you?
 
Where did you get a pair of extra tall arms to manage this?
I am serious, when buying a tank I do check if I can reach to the bottom, so how troublesome is this for you?
When I built my stand I made it so the tank is higher than most stands. So you can stand in front of it and see the tank without bending over.

So I have to use a step stool to do maintenance. And I can reach to the bottom of tank, but it is pretty much at the limit where if it was any deeper it would be a problem.

But the nice thing about a taller tank is that plants have room to grow. I see some small tanks with something like Pantanal in them and wonder how often they must be trimming that stuff? Must be twice a week which seems like even more work.
 
Fantastic as usual Gregg.

The last few of your tank pics.. there seems to be a little bit of a difference to me, colours are really bright.. have you changed your lighting a little, or perhaps you're capturing photos with a different camera?

Looks great either way 👍
 
Fantastic as usual Gregg.

The last few of your tank pics.. there seems to be a little bit of a difference to me, colours are really bright.. have you changed your lighting a little, or perhaps you're capturing photos with a different camera?

Looks great either way 👍
200+ PAR 8 hours a day for about three days right before a pic and the colors pop. Also recently replaced all my red and blue bulbs. I can tell you lately in person it gets your attention when you walk by the tank. It is a newer phone too which could make a difference as well.
 
The latest. No big changes but some new plants and moved a few things around.

View attachment 4470
Looking great as usual!

What is the green stem left of the Myrio, and what is the Pogo looking plant in front of the Myrio?
 
200+ PAR 8 hours a day for about three days right before a pic and the colors pop.
Are you saying that you’re not keeping your light constant? If so, what’s your usual PAR, and photo period, and what made you decide to settle on that value? With PAR, would you adjust CO2 as well?

great tank pic again @GreggZ thanks for posting
 
Are you saying that you’re not keeping your light constant? If so, what’s your usual PAR, and photo period, and what made you decide to settle on that value? With PAR, would you adjust CO2 as well?

great tank pic again @GreggZ thanks for posting
I usually run about 130 PAR for 6 hours, and 200+ PAR for 2 hours. When I want to turn up the color I run full lights for three or four days in a row for 8 hours. No question it makes a difference. You can see the color changing day by day.
Looking great as usual!

What is the green stem left of the Myrio, and what is the Pogo looking plant in front of the Myrio?
Left of the Myrio is Syngonanthus Sp. Meta. A super easy grower and a weed. Highly recommended.

In front of the Myrio is Pogestemon Kimberly. Will likely move it to the back once it gets a bit bigger.
 
I usually run about 130 PAR for 6 hours, and 200+ PAR for 2 hours.
This coming from you @GreggZ , seems worth further exploring. Why is this, and do you think it is an important contributor to your success? Any others doing it, and should we try as well?
 
Looking great as always @GreggZ!

Any chance you could provide a plant list/lineup?....there's a few plants there I don't recognize
Here you go. Some on this list are groups that are small and I am just hanging on to. Might let the group get bigger someday and feature them more. Collectoritis is a hard habit to break!

Acmella repens
Bacopa Colorata
Cabomba Furcata
Gymnocoronis spilanthoides variegated
Hygrophila Triflora
Hyptis Laciniata
Juncus repens
Limnophila Aromatica Mini
Limnophila Chinensis
Ludwigia Inclinata Verticillata ‘Cuba’
Ludwigia Inclinata Verticillata Pantanal
Ludwigia Ovalis
Ludwigia Repens 'Rubin'
Mayaca Fluviatilis
Myriophyllum mattogrossense Golden
Myriophyllum Roraima
Nymphoides Hydrophylla 'Taiwan'
Persicaria pak Chong
Pogostemon Kimberly
Rotala Macranda Kochi
Rotala Macranda Rose
Rotala rotundifolia Blood Red "Singapore"
Samolus Parviflorus
Syngonanthus Belem
Syngonanthus Sp. Meta
 
This coming from you @GreggZ , seems worth further exploring. Why is this, and do you think it is an important contributor to your success? Any others doing it, and should we try as well?
Light drives color, but it also drives growth. So there is a trade off. IME the higher the light the more everything must be dialed in, so you need to have a good stable tank to really turn it up.

Most of the time I run a high light burst for either 2 or 3 hours a day. I find it a good balance of keeping things a bit easier and having good color. But every so often I really turn it up and things color up even more pretty quickly. Like setting them out in the sun and getting a sun burn!
 
So 130ish par to 200ish par for those few hours?
Yep right about 130 then actually measuring at 215 PAR with all lights on. But if I went full bore full light 8 hours a day all the time would be even more maintenance. Great color, but also fast growth. So I only do it once in a while and plants do respond fast.
 
Yep right about 130 then actually measuring at 215 PAR with all lights on. But if I went full bore full light 8 hours a day all the time would be even more maintenance. Great color, but also fast growth. So I only do it once in a while and plants do respond fast.
I’m going to try this. Slowly of course, maybe 1 hour a day at near 200 par.
 
This topic has been coming up a lot lately. Folks ask what is the best liquid all-in-one fertilizer? As usual the answer is “that depends”. They are all a combination of macro nutrients in some form, providing Nitrate, Phosphate, and Potassium. And then some add micros nutrients as well. They are provided in different amounts and ratios, so which one is best for you depends on which mix works best in your particular tank.

One thing they all have in common is that you can make a very similar solution for a fraction of the cost. With a liquid fertilizer you are paying mostly for water, packaging, distribution, profit, etc.

If I told you that you could make a typical 1,000 ml bottle of fertilizer that usually retails for about $45 for $2.39 would that get your attention? If so read on to learn more. If fertilizer is more a matter of convenience for you, and you don’t mind paying more, then any number of great fertilizers are out there on the market.

If you are still with me then next we will discuss how to make your own DIY fertilizer as we dive a little deeper into the rabbit hole.

If someone is going to go this route the first they need to do is stop thinking in terms of ml per gallon and start thinking in terms of ppm (parts per million). Every fertilizer out there is providing some amount of ppm of nutrients to your tank. So start thinking in terms of ppm of NO3 (Nitrogen) , ppm of PO4 (Phosphorus), and ppm of K (Potassium). These are what are referred to as macro nutrients. Every fertilizer is supplying these macros at some ratio and amount per dose, and ppm is the universal language of planted tank fertilizers.

And some (not all) also provide some micronutrients. Micros are things things like iron, Boron, Nickel, etc. that are provided in very small trace amounts.

Now on to the fun part. Let’s see what might be in that all-in-liquid fertilizer. In this case I am going to make one up that is pretty typical of liquid fertilizers, and provides fairly rich dosing. So a strong more costly blend than average.

For our purposes our fertilizer will come in a 1,000ml solution, and will cost $45.00. Pretty average for many liquid ferts. Of course some are more and some are less, but as you will see means little in the big picture. The instructions will say to dose 20 ml per week per 25 gallons of water. That will provide 15 ppm NO3, 3 ppm PO4, and 15 ppm K weekly. It will also provide micro nutrients with Fe at 0.50 ppm as proxy.

Let’s start with Nitrate. In our case we will use KNO3 (Potassium nitrate). This is readily available and costs about $3.00 per pound if you buy in a 5lb quantity. Next we use a planted tank nutrient calculator like Rotalabutterfly.com. Note we are creating a 1,000ml solution, with a 20 ml dose providing 15 ppm NO3 to 25 gallons of water. Here’s how that looks.

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Once you understand how to calculate for one fertilizer then it’s on the others. I used CSM+B for micros, but you could save even more if you make your own custom micro mix. If you want to learn more here is a link to a post with more detail.


So as calculated by Rotalabutterfly above we would add 115g of KNO3 to our 1,000ml solution. The cost per pound is about $3.00. There are about 453 grams in a pound, so our cost per gram is $0.0066. For our solution we add 115g which is about $0.76 of KNO3. Yep that’s right less than a dollar. Then we go on to the additional nutrients doing the same calculations. And here’s what you end up with.

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So that $45 bottle of fertilizer has $2.39 of actual fertilizers in it. Or to put it another way, for the $45 for one bottle I could make almost 19 bottles of DIY fertilizer.

And a 1,000ml size bottle is a large size and offers some cost savings. But the reality is most people buy fertilizers in smaller 500 ml bottles. In that case your savings are even more.

Most 500ml bottles are closer to $30.00 per bottle (shipped). So the 500ml bottle has about $1.20 of fertilizer in it. So for the cost of one 500ml bottle you could make 25 DIY bottles.

So for those who are looking for a better deal on fertilizers, you should really consider making your own. And for a larger tank like mine I don’t make a solution, I just dose dry amounts into my tank. Either way learning to use dry salts can save a LOT of money over time…….and that means more money to buy plants! I hope this helps a few people out there save a few bucks dosing their tank.

And there is one other benefit as well. You can pretty much clone any fertilizer or customize your mix any way that you would like. That's when you really start diving deep down the rabbit hole!
 
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