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Question of the Day Current thinking on the Ca:Mg:K ratio?

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1) I agree with @Art that when it comes to actual preferences of aquarium plants, we still know too damn little to draw any definitive conclusions. It certainly has to do with a multitude of factors that may play a role in it (e.g., nutrient uptake and mechanisms of their management, their optimal internal and external concentrations and their synergistic or antagonistic relationships with each other, water physico-chemical parameters, sediment properties and composition, light intensity, microbial activity, redox, etc.). Basically, each of us just has a recipe that has worked more or less well for him [in his particular conditions]. And most of our discussions revolve around promoting (sharing) these specific (local) recipes of ours in the wider aquarium community, where we very often find that what works for us doesn't work for [some] others for some reason. But few people think about why. Few look for deeper principles (laws). At least that's how it appears to me.

2) There is a similar discord [from my perspective] in the aquarium community regarding the correlation between higher nutrient concentrations and algae. While the scientific community acknowledges this link, the aquarium community has taken the view that there is no causal relationship between nutrients and algae. However, from my point of view, this is again comparing apples with oranges. This inconsistency seems to me to be due to overlooking other factors that play a role in this (especially the preferences of different algae species with respect to water parameters, light, temperature, pH, redox and optimum nutrient concentration). For example, it has been confirmed to me several times in my experiments that green haze, for example, is much more likely to occur [under certain conditions] in acidic water, whereas bacterial haze or green filamentous algae is more likely to occur in water with neutral pH. Just change the pH and you can be done with the problem. But I mention this only as an example of how little we know about the actual causes of some things/problems, and how often we cling to an opinion without considering other possibilities.

3) I also agree with @Art that nutrient availability and [related] environmental stability certainly plays an important role. If only for the reason that plants adapt to any changes in the external environment (e.g. by activating or deactivating various mechanisms that result in various metabolic changes, etc.), and some of those adaptations are quite exhausting for them. For example, if plants have a steadily higher CO2 concentration (say 10 ppm) available to them, then carbon uptake is so energy-inefficient that it saves them a lot of energy that they can spend on things other than carbon acquisition. However, if they don't have enough CO2 available and are forced to resort to carbon extraction from HCO3 (if they can do that at all), then they supposedly use so much energy to do that that they [or some of them] then need illumination of at least 80 µmol PAR to maintain a positive energy balance. And there are certainly many such examples where one is related to the other.

4) Regarding the optimal ratio of nutrients and their absolute (specific) concentration, I think there is again a considerable discord here, where every aquarist has a different opinion. One of the few things we can hopefully all agree on is that plants take up different nutrients in different amounts, with the greatest demand [ignoring water = hydrogen and oxygen] being for carbon and then nitrogen. The other nutrients they need [compared to these two nutrients] in much smaller quantities. And while the specific optimal ratio of most nutrients is fairly well known for terrestrial agricultural crops, not many people have investigated this for aquatic plants. In general, the optimal Ca:Mg ratio tends to be in the range of 2-6:1. However, many things may be different for aquatic plants because aquatic plants are surrounded by nutrient solution, so most nutrients are "passively pushed" into them and they do not have as good a means of regulating their uptake as terrestrial plants, where most nutrients are bound in the soil and the plants have to "actively extract" them when needed. This suggests to me that the optimum nutrient ratio may play a much greater role in aquatic plants than in terrestrial ones, since here the internal balance of charges can be upset much more easily by an inappropriate nutrient solution. However, it should certainly be borne in mind that many plants may be better adapted to these problems than others. But here again, I think that many (perhaps most) aquarists often focus on nutrient ratios without considering other factors that may play a role. For example, think about how many aquarists include such a trivial parameter as pH or redox (water/soil) in their tank journals. Virtually none. Yet I consider both of these parameters to be crucial, as they have a cascading effect on a whole host of other things (from nutrient availability to microbial composition). Another thing that is often overlooked when considering optimal nutrient ratios is the fact that most essential nutrients (including calcium, magnesium and potassium) are present in some quantity in organic sediments. And while the prevailing opinion in the scientific community is that most aquatic plants prefer to take up these nutrients from the water column, this may be far from being true for all aquarium plants. In other words, whatever concentrations of Ca:Mg:K we have in the water, these concentrations may be in completely different ratios and concentrations in the sediment, and if [at least some] plants can obtain these nutrients in adequate amounts from the sediment as well, then this may distort the overall picture, and knowing their exact ratios and concentrations in the water may be of little use ... because we are again overlooking another factor (= sediment).

My point here is to show that, while I welcome discussion of these matters, I think (and hopefully have managed to present some meaningful arguments for it) that unless we learn to evaluate the phenomena that take place in our aquaria in the broader context of all the relevant factors that may have a major influence on them, we will hardly reach any meaningful (generally valid) conclusions.

I apologize for such a long post.
 
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In other words, whatever concentrations of Ca:Mg:K we have in the water, these concentrations may be in completely different ratios and concentrations in the sediment, and if [at least some] plants can obtain these nutrients in adequate amounts from the sediment as well, then this may distort the overall picture, and knowing their exact ratios and concentrations in the water may be of little use ... because we are again overlooking another factor (= sediment).

And that's a great point
We really don't know how many nutrients are in organic sediments.

When I started this tank, the idea was to provide less K than Mg
I've never provided more K than Mg from fertilization, but I don't know what happens in such a worn out soil substrate.

It seems to me that the plant in my tank has more K than Mg from the processes Marcel mentioned, plus what I provide from fertilization is more than enough
Or in other words, the plants have become accustomed to it and have developed other mechanisms.
How interesting!

As Burr mentioned, there are plant species in which you can read like clockwork when they need a given element
For example, in my case S.Uaupes very quickly shows Fe deficiency, but other Syngos do not show such problems
In fact, other Syngo species are weeds.
Limnophila Sp. Guinea reacts quickly to phosphorus deficiency

Generally, a few years ago I think I wrote to Marcel about one test in his experiments
How the plants would grow (growth, quality) in his test tanks without substrate, but more importantly with the same fertilization in all tanks.

I am curious about this, maybe in the future, when I have more space, I will create something like this myself
 
To complete the picture regarding Ca:Mg:K nutrition of plants, we should also consider the usually relatively high cation exchange capacity (CEC ) of most organic substrates (or any older substrates in general, even originally inert ones in which some detritus accumulates over time).

For example, I can imagine the following situations:

Let's say I have a plant that prefers to take up Ca:Mg:K from the water column (in other words, it cannot take up these nutrients from the substrate, or only in small amounts that cannot cover its nutritional requirements). I add X ppm Ca, Y ppm Mg and Z ppm K to the water, thinking that this will be enough for the plant. However, some (or even most) of these nutrients will bind to the substrate. The result: the plant starts to suffer from a deficiency of these nutrients (or some of them).

Of course, the above process also works in reverse. Large amounts of Ca:Mg:K in the substrate can be released into the water. If I add only a small amount of these nutrients to the water, I may be living under the mistaken impression that the plant only needs this small amount of nutrients, when in fact I may have much more Ca:Mg:K in the water that has been released from the substrate.

And, of course, there may be the aforementioned situation where my plant is able to take up Ca:Mg:K from the sediment (although this is supposedly not common), and so it will thrive beautifully even if I only add a small amount of these nutrients to the water. Again, I will be living under the misconception that this plant only needs a small amount of these nutrients because I am overlooking the capabilities of the substrate.

Furthermore, the substrate may contain some of these nutrients far more than others. In that case, again, a case of some antagonism can easily occur without us being aware of it => in the sediment (or even in the water column, but due to leaching of that nutrient from the sediment).

In addition, the ability of the substrate to bind nutrients to itself changes over time in the sense that it may behave differently in the first few months and differently after six months. Most organic substrates, for example, are so-called "hungry" and will "suck up" most of the cations from the water when flooded. Thus, it is quite common for most of the cations to "disappear" from the water in the first few months. However, once the substrate becomes "saturated" with these cations, it will stop sucking them out of the water (and may in turn release them into the water if we use water that is poor in these cations), so they will then remain in the water. Now, put plants in this situation that prefer to take in these nutrients from the water column vs. the substrate. While some will thrive ideally in the first few months, others will suffer (and vice versa after six months).

There are many such possibilities. And if we don't acknowledge them, then we can preach delusions.

P.S. If you understand all this, then you probably also understand why scientists often avoid using substrates in their experiments with aquatic plants. Because with a substrate, you introduce a hell of a lot of factors into your experiment that can really mess with your head.
 
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I appreciate the thought-provoking discussion here. Honestly, I need to find some time today to properly read and consider each of your comments. Hoping to add some of my experiences later today.
 
Before Vin started the Kill Tank thread he and I both tried the 'K lower than or equal to Mg' routine, because a well-respected person in EU said it was the key to happy ammania. I dont remember who it came from, they weren't a well know person in the hobby, at least in the US

It does take a while for plants to adjust their inner workings to new parameters, as both @macek.g and @Marcel G pointed out (this is another factor to consider with your experiments marcel. Initial results may not mean a routine is bad, the plants are simply having to adjust. Same thing when we try a different dosing routine)

Vin tried it I think for about 3 months. I tried it for close to a year. Not in all tanks, just a couple. And after a few months I abandoned relating it to Mg but kept working with low K in general.

The results were disastrous, and it didnt help ammania one bit

There's a lot of processes involved that we dont understand. For me personally there comes a point where I dont need to understand the deeper complexities involved. Most hobbyists reach this point long before I do. The vast majority of people dont care about the inner workings of the TV remote. They just want to know what buttons to push to make the TV do what they want

While I remain very curious, Im certainly not qualified to debate the matter beyond what Ive said here. All I know is what Ive seen work, and what Ive seen not work. So I try to always communicate that the things I say and recommend are based on personal experience and observations alone. Of that I do have a large amount, documented with pics all over the internet going back a decade and a half

I would encourage anyone to try low K or anything else they find interesting. Personal results are the real proof. When we see something work for ourselves or not. Somebody elses results dont mean much if we cant apply them to our own tanks with good results. Ive tried showing my plants scientific proof of why they should be happy with what Im giving them, what crop studies say, etc. They never seem to care...stupid plants lol
 
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Before Vin started the Kill Tank thread he and I both tried the 'K lower than or equal to Mg' routine, because a well-respected person in EU said it was the key to happy ammania. I dont remember who it came from, they weren't a well know person in the hobby, at least in the US.
It could have been Andreas Solinger (and his college Meicher) from Germany ... they wrote a „paper“ on the mutual ratio of Ca:Mg:K in 2018, which I also translated into English (Remarks on the mutual ratio of Ca:Mg:K).
 
@Burr740, as I stated in one of my posts above: I know S**t about this issue too. I just don't like it very much (to the point of being a bit allergic to it, I'd say) when someone confidently claims that such and such a ratio or concentration of nutrients is ideal, while disingenuously ignoring a whole host of other factors I mentioned.

That's why I respect anyone who shares their own experiences or findings with others, but doesn't act so arrogantly and pass them off as facts unless he has successfully dealt with all relevant objections.

And lest it appear that I only apply these claims to others, I guiltily admit that I am often guilty of this myself. One simply has a tendency to pass off one's own opinions as facts, whereas the opinions of others as fabrications or, at best, hypotheses.

Still, I think (albeit perhaps naively and utopianly) that the truth is out there somewhere and can be known (i.e., to understand what plants really need and how best to provide it). In the myriad of factors, it is admittedly quite difficult to uncover, but if one enjoys it or sees sense in it, why not look for it. If everyone resigned themselves to the search for truth just because it's difficult, where would we be today? Wouldn't we?

But if we are to arrive at any true (generally valid) knowledge, we need to proceed the right (logical) way. That's what studying classical philosophy taught me. And the first step is to clarify all relevant possibilities (factors). But try to think for yourself what possibilities (factors) most aquarists consider relevant ... CO2, light ... then nothing for a long time, and then maybe nutrients (but they don't really play any significant role if you add an excess of them [they say]). This just doesn't seem like the right approach to me.

And as for your analogy about controlling the TV, I agree with that, of course. It's pointless to ask others to understand everything in depth. But the problem is when someone pretends to be one without really understanding it. Such a person is capable of doing more harm than good, because he spreads pseudo-knowledge (fallacies) among others. Nevertheless, I think that the existence of such people and the consequences of their fallacies (misconceptions) are basically inevitable and the fight against them cannot be won. I'd better shut up now.
 
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I've done my share of research and experimenting with ratios and found that they don't matter within the typical ranges of nutrient levels that we deal with in this hobby.

It is a known scientific fact that Liebig's law is at play and that it's the individual values that matter the most rather than ratios, unless you're going to push some weird crazy numbers.

The Ca:Mg thing I have played with from 1:1 to 2:1, 3:1... Saw no difference. No difference between 10:10, 15:5 and 40:10 ppm. It seems that they all supply Ca and Mg in non-limiting amounts to plants.
Now there are some caveats. For example, one thing I did notice with Ca is that when I had it higher (30-40 ppm) I had to dose higher traces (0.45 ppm Fe by proxy), and when I had it leaner (10 ppm) I was able to dose leaner traces.

The stuff about low K and/or the 2:1:0.5 Ca:Mg:K ratio being "better" is nonsense. If you browse the German forums it's not uncommon to see someone ask for help with algae issues and then someone telling him of all things to check if his K is too high. lol

Actually the opposite is true with K. It's highly safe (non-toxic, non-reactive, doesn't trigger algae, etc.) so it's best to be kept high. There are tons of examples of aquarists growing all of the most difficult species under high K (e.g. 30-40 ppm accumulated). From Tom, to Marian, to Dennis, to many others. Same with ADA.

I know it's a different context, but in large scale commercial hydroponic farms (where millions of dollars of investment are at stake), you can expect to see levels like this as non-limiting: 200 ppm NO3, 50 ppm PO4, 300 ppm K, 150 ppm Ca, 50 ppm Mg.
So the "norm" are ratios around: 4:1 for Ca:Mg and 1.5:1 for K:NO3 (very similar to where @Burr740 and many of us like to have it).
But that's not because the ratios themselves are magical. It's simply because those individual levels were found to be optimal for uptake and crop yield (for the kind of plants, light and CO2 they're dealing with) without causing interferences or being wasteful.

First, for some ions, just because the plants uptake 2 ppm per week of it doesn't mean it's a good idea to have 2 ppm of it in your water. Because higher levels will "optimize" its uptake making it easier for the plant to take in those needed 2 ppm in a shorter timeframe.

Second, like @Burr740 said if ratios didn't matter then we'd be dosing 40/40/40. Well, again, that's true but it's not the ratio itself, but the individual levels. 40 ppm PO4 is a bad idea because it would be terrible for iron availability (and calcium and potentially other trace elements) at the levels at which we can safely dose micros, and not because the NO3 and K are at also at 40.

In sunny conditions, and with such constant supply of nutrients circulated in a closed hydroponic greenhouse, their limiting factor actually becomes CO2 (depite the ~400 ppm atmospheric CO2) since all individual nutrient levels are kept non-limiting, so most commercial farms will supplement the greenhouse with CO2 to push yield even further. You certainly don't want to lard on reactive elements, toxic heavy metals, NH4, etc. But apart from such considerations, it doesn't matter much. All it will change is how fast the plants will grow. It's always Liebig's law.

3.6lyle1.jpg

Let's compare a couple of examples. Here is a tank from our friend Miko Layno from the Philippines with 40 ppm K, 20-25 ppm Ca, 7.5 ppm Mg, 15-20 ppm NO3, 0.52 ppm Fe, and rich soil:

417434058_868063778663460_6264295265732116681_n.jpg

And here's a tank by plantnoobdude from UKAPS that has around 5 ppm Ca, 2 ppm Mg, 2 ppm K, 8.85 ppm NO3 (as Urea and NH4), 1 ppm PO4, 0.016 ppm Fe (all front-loaded once a week), and inert black sand:

IMG_20230125_074807.jpg

What do these two tanks have in common?

0 KH, very high CO2 (both around 1.5 pH drop), very high PAR, biologically well established, regular plant husbandry.
Also, both of these guys said that there are some specific species that they couldn't grow well under those specific setups. That's because there isn't a single configuration where all species will thrive or we'd know about it by now.

What they also have in common is that they are in balance. For example:
  • The 1st one does GH 5 and 0.5 ppm Fe (as proxy for traces).
  • The 2nd uses a super lean GH but also very lean Fe and traces to go with it.
I wouldn't call it ratios, but a balance. The overall dosing system is coherent as a whole. Plants like that.

Attempting very lean micros in hardish tap water is a bad idea. Likewise, doing EI-type micros in super soft GH/KH is probably not a good idea (plants were more prone to stunting due to excess micros in that scenario for me).

Or you might think that 2 ppm K in the lean tank is super not enough. It works in that setup because as soon as those macros are front-loaded at the beginning of the week, the plants will suck up that burst of nitrogen (in ammoniacal easily accessible form + whatever the tank quickly converts to NO3), PO4 and K and exhaust the water column. And then they'll slow down growth until the next meal.

I found this to be very different from having EI levels of everything consistently but then combining that with low K consistently: K deficiency symptoms almost guaranteed, because K then becomes blatantly the limiting factor for plant growth.

The only disadvantage with that lean tank is that if it goes a week without dosing, plants quickly start to suffer. So less room for error.

So overall, I think ratios are not important. Individual levels are important, and an overall "balance" in the water chemistry is important.
 
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We dont need as much Mg as we think. 4-5 ppm is enough even with Ca and K at 40+. Higher Mg, even up to 2:1 Ca:Mg, doesnt seem cause noticeable issues, it just isnt needed
Do you suppose that this is a reasonable starting point for re-mineralizing RO water if the target is 6GH?
1733245582131.webp
 
Isn't having 6,5 Mg a little bit to low?
I have no idea @bizovski . I'm coming at this from level zero. But referring back to:

We dont need as much Mg as we think. 4-5 ppm is enough
and:
For about 3 years I have been running a tank where I supply negligible amounts of K, it is about 0.1-0.2 K per week, Mg similarly per week
However, I change RO water
Ca -20 25, Mg 6-7 ,K-1 (and I also very often exclude K from this)
maybe not?

P.S. for anybody that checked the math in my post, I have the Ca and Mg amounts, but not the ppm, transposed.
 
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Do you suppose that this is a reasonable starting point for re-mineralizing RO water if the target is 6GH?
View attachment 6601
Okay, the first time I did not check your calculations. But I did think it was strange that the amount of mg/gal ratio seemed off but did not think anything of it until @bizovski mentioned something this morning.

I ran your numbers through rotalabutterfly and got this:
1733321177165.webp

This is based off of you mg/gal you inputted. If you want to match your numbers then it needs to be like this:
1733321296385.webp

I apologize for that. Now I will say that I find it easier to dose my water storage to the volume of water I fill, which may also be easier for you. If you have questions do not hesitate to ask. I enjoy running these kinda numbers.
 
Okay, the first time I did not check your calculations. But I did think it was strange that the amount of mg/gal ratio seemed off but did not think anything of it until @bizovski mentioned something this morning.

I ran your numbers through rotalabutterfly and got this:
View attachment 6606

This is based off of you mg/gal you inputted. If you want to match your numbers then it needs to be like this:
View attachment 6607

I apologize for that. Now I will say that I find it easier to dose my water storage to the volume of water I fill, which may also be easier for you. If you have questions do not hesitate to ask. I enjoy running these kinda numbers.
Yep, I simply transposed the Ca and Mg amounts when building that little grid for the screenshot. Appreciate the input. I guess my takeaway is that 30'ish ppm Ca and 6'ish ppm Mg for a ratio around 5:1 is in the ballpark. And based on other comments in this thread, that might suggest K around 45ppm? (1.5:1 K:Ca) or higher?
 
Yep, I simply transposed the Ca and Mg amounts when building that little grid for the screenshot. Appreciate the input. I guess my takeaway is that 30'ish ppm Ca and 6'ish ppm Mg for a ratio around 5:1 is in the ballpark. And based on other comments in this thread, that might suggest K around 45ppm? (1.5:1 K:Ca) or higher?
That's probably about right on K, I've done K lower than Ca. There is not really a golden ratio, it will all depend on your tank. But starting K a bit higher than Ca seems to be the way to go.
 
So the beauty of do-it-yourself fertilizer is that you can play around with the percentages and see what happens. Occasionally, I will play with some of the ratios to see what effect it has on my aquarium. Sometimes it’s obvious and sometimes it’s not

Keep an eye on your plants and let them guide you with what they want.
 
So overall, I think ratios are not important. Individual levels are important, and an overall "balance" in the water chemistry is important.
@Marwen this is very well said. Would you say front loading is also something that these tanks do that plants get used to?
 

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