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Journal 20 gallon Rotala florida tank

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dennis Wong
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I have always liked Rotala florida as plant due to its strongly colored leaves, but realized that I haven't actually aquascaped much with it - meaning to integrate it as part of a layout and not just growing a bunch of it in farm/collector style tank. Using plants in a layout in tighter bunches, and in competition with surrounding plants/hardscape is much harder than growing it farm style in a single patch - it also means be able to shape/trim the bushes to match the overall curves of the layout.

Back in 2016 or so when I first received Rotala florida samples from north america, I could only grow it in sparser bunches. It looked nice in macro photographs but I could not envision using it an bush that would show off well as part of a layout unless I can grow it much denser. In the recent years, there were two main discoveries that I found in my experimentation, the first is that it grows better in moderate GH (5 dGH+) compared to super soft water (say <3dGH), and that it grew better in certain soil mixes (I experimented with different garden soil mixes when engineering the composition of APT Feast). Eventually I integrated some of the soil data into APT Feast's composition, and paired with the higher power lights readily available today, I find that I could finally grow the plant the way I envisioned as part of overall layout. I could prune it dense, as the base stems were healthy enough to sprout dense side shoots after trimming - and the secondary/tertiary shoot tips were as fully colored and sized similar to a primary shoot tip that hasn't been subjected to topping yet.

As a midground stem, it works very well due to its slower growth rate vs other colored stem plants.

Against the deep purple of Rotala florida, I found that Golden white clouds worked quite well. So now they are the main inhabitants of the tank.

Tank this week (25/6/2025)
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Tank started out like this:
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A week or 2 after initial planting (5/5/2025). I reused old aquasoil from the previous scape, so I planted all plants up front rather than waiting more time for the tank to stabilize, with the idea that I could out-grow any algae issues. Initially wanted to add H. Chai but it really didn't fit the overall color scheme, and the bushes by the side were too invasive to be compatible with having a chai patch I think.

Since it was going to contain Rotala florida, I thought I might as well throw in other high demand troublesome species such as the Red Eriocaulon quinguangulare, blood vomit. I settled on Rotala tulunadensis for the background as I wanted something dense and shapeable.

Tank specs:
60x36x36cm
Filter: Oase biomaster 250, all sponge media
CO2 injected through inline atomizer
Substrate: APT Feast
Water column: APT Sky to raise GH to 5dGH, 2ml of APTe per day.

2hrAquaristDSCF3291E.webp
Light distance. Interestingly, not crazy high PAR - just around 200-250 umols PAR at the substrate level.

Name 3222E 2ft florida.webp

Trimming and shaping: Most bushes were shaped by cutting individual outlier shoots one by one. Only Rotala blood red and the Rotala tulunadensis was straight trimmed across the entire top once.

2hrAquaristDSCF331Ed5E.webp
This is how the Rotala tulunadensis looked like after a straight trim on 29/5/2025. About 3 weeks from when the top picture at top of this page was taken. It took the plant a whole week + to show new shoots. It seems straight trimming slows down the plant quite a bit, but allows for a very dense & neat canopy afterwards.


2hrAquaristDSCF4019E.webp
There are some interesting plants stuffed here and there. Some Eriocaulon caulescens? bolivia? that local hobbyists passed on to me. Carved out a patch for Syngonanthus vichada - slow grower, but the couple of babies that came have doubled in size so I think they should be alright. I think I will move them to a larger tank with more space.

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Only discovered the color combination with the Golden white clouds when the tank matured, but its one of my favourite fish-plant combinations now. I think that while some of the species are a bit picky about growth conditions, one thing I really like about this tank is that most things have moderate/slow growth rates, which makes maintenance with regards to removing excess growth less tedious.
Elatine triandra is used as a low growing green filler plant - it does this role well. As it does not root very deeply, I can easily cut and pull off excess growth easily. Its the fasting growing plant in the layout that requires frequent removal of excess growth.

Some more close-ups.
2hrAquaristDSCF3337E blood vomit.webp
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2hrAquaristDSCF2763E Florida.webp
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2hrAquaristDSCF3171E tulu florida sunset.webp
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I'm trying to replicate concepts of this layout (slowing growing bushes) into my 4ft tank.
 
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the first is that it grows better in moderate GH (5 dGH+) compared to super soft water (say <3dGH), and that it grew better in certain soil mixes (I experimented with different garden soil mixes when engineering the composition of APT Feast)
Without giving away any proprietary information for your new APT Feast (which I'm going to try soon), do you have any thoughts on what in the soil the plant liked?

A week or 2 after initial planting (5/5/2025). I reused old aquasoil from the previous scape, so I planted all plants up front rather than waiting more time for the tank to stabilize, with the idea that I could out-grow any algae issues.
I have read you say this recently in other places. Am I right in understanding that you started with fresh APT Feast then, at the 2 week mark, you added old aqua soil (with its bacterial colony) to seed the aquarium with bacteria? Then, you forced quick growth of plants to outcompete algae?

Light distance. Interestingly, not crazy high PAR - just around 200-250 umols PAR at the substrate level.
Do you usually start with a low par, then ramp up PAR levels or do you have another method?

one thing I really like about this tank is that most things have moderate/slow growth rates, which makes maintenance with regards to removing excess growth less tedious.
This is really important for people to see. Your tank needs to work for the level of husbandry that you want and realistically can give. Slower growth gives you a buffer to make things manageable.
 
Reply to Art:
I used old APT Feast aquasoil from a previous setup that was running for 3 months or so. The comment about the 2 week mark is on the age of the picture - about the date that the photograph was taken. I removed the old layout, siphoned away detritus and planted the new layout immediately. Usually I would recommend waiting to plant more delicate species (such as Blood vomit), here I chose to just sit out the adjustments that the plant will make (hence the algae on those plants).

I think starting with lower PAR is helpful. Plants take some time to settle in, and lower PAR prevents runaway algae problems. The majority of folk's algae issues are when the tank is new. If algae gains more momentum than plants at the start, less experienced folks can take very long to turn things around, especially folks that have less time to reaction to daily changes in the tank. Since stuff like diatoms are tied to overall tank maturity and time more so than plant growth per se, throwing a ton of light to get faster growth at the start is counter productive for most tanks. Its far easier to let the tank settle with lower light, then tune light up to get density/coloration. In my case, I think I started with the full power just because I was lazy to keep tuning the light.

Curious, what temp do you keep for these tanks?

The Rotala florida tank is closer to the down draft of the AC, so its around 22-23C.
 
Haters will say it's photoshopped just because you posted it lol.
Amazing work, Dennis! So beautiful.
You know I have quite a few funny stories about this.

One of the first instances was growing the red Eriocaulon quinquangulare when it was new on the market. Quite a number of folks claimed that it never survives for long underwater and that all I was doing was planting emersed plants, then taking photos before they deteriorated. Even when I had fields of it growing some folks were in disbelief and accused me of running a scam (because I wanted to sell the plants, but I wasn't actually selling anything). Tom barr had to come in and said that he could grow them too, to verify that the plant could indeed be propagated permanently under water.
Eriocaulon cuspidatum.webp

The second instance was on Hygrophila chai. Again I was accused of planting fresh samples each time for pictures. Because it was believed that the plant cannot/doesn't grow under water. I grew the first batch of H.. Chai from TC, which was much pickier than the emersed versions we can get today. I didn't blame them for claiming that since I wasn't sure how long it would last at that time also. But eventually as my progression pics of the Chai grew, accusations turned into sale calls where some hobbyists offered ridiculously prices for a sample (few hundred bucks?). But I had promised the farm that gave me the sample to not sell any of my samples.
Chai Comparison.webp

Then I had folks accuse me of taking pictures with overly blue lighting to make Bucephalandra brownie ghost 2011 look bluish/purplish. There is some truth to this in the era of colored T5 lighting - either you used coloured tubes or get sucky coloration with plain white tubes and I had the former. It was only until the LED era that I could get nice color saturation with neutral white color tone. And it became clear the varietal looked purple/bluish regardless of the type of light used. To confound the problem, there were many sellors selling fake BG 2011, or TC BG2011 where the TC did not hold the colouration of the original plant even when the sample tissue was taken from a BG2011 plant (original vs TC can be seen in pic 2 below).

Bg11 wallpaper 2560.webp
2hrAquaristDSCF5946 Bucep brownie ghost.webpDSCF6021 ghost.webp

Then a couple of months back an instagram person claimed that I photoshopped the Rotala florida, because florida grows with some green on the leaves connecting to the stem like below (stole the image from online, but its ok, that particular shop steals my plant images for their plant sales also). So I decided to have a Rotala florida dominant tank that I can fully document in photographs and video to show, once again, that it really looks that way. I guess in some sense I have to thank that guy on setting me on this project.

1753289471639.webp
 
Beautiful Rotala Florida Dennis. Grew it once myself and found it to be extremely stable, even when my light broke and my tank had only indirect light from nearby tanks for a whole week, it still stood tall and proud! It looked more like your last photo, purple+green, but that was under much lower light and higher N.

Wish i kept it around more to see how it would do under higher light and leaner conditions! Awesome plant.
 
Short video ~
Might move the concept to a 4ft tank as the mid/foreground has been pretty easy to manage so far due to the slower growth speeds.
View attachment 9301

Dennis can you post a chalkboard map of this tank?

Or a screenshot with the names of each of those plants typed over their groupings? 😁😁

So beautiful 💐💐💐 it really helps to have a key that shows exactly which plant is growing where!
 
Dennis can you post a chalkboard map of this tank?

Or a screenshot with the names of each of those plants typed over their groupings? 😁😁

So beautiful 💐💐💐 it really helps to have a key that shows exactly which plant is growing where!
The names are in the first post. You can check the picture of the tank when it is first planted in the first post also to see the layout before it grew out. Unless the pics are not loading ?
 
This is me, even if I can ever get my tank to look good, I'll never be able to take a decent pic of it.
It took me a few years (even though I didn't work at photography very actively) to find the combination of settings that worked. Light settings look a bit different for irl VS camera lens and there are slight differences even between lenses.

I could not get handphones to take good images without it looking overly purplish, but then maybe I did not have the best camera phones available.

I use a Fuji TX3, XF15-55mm lens and the Fuji 80mm macro lens
many other small adjustments such as [+1 shadows (this brightened shadows) -1 highlights (darkened highlights)] that took a long time to discover.
Week aqua a430 at [60R 70B 42B]

2hrAquaristDSCF4704E 60R 70G 42B.webp
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2hrAquaristDSCF4719E side shots.webp
 
Is this what the tank normally runs at, or just for the photography session?
This is what the tank normally runs at. Its not at 100% power though, I think its around 80% or something, I adjusted it to hit just 150mols PAR on the substrate so that I can compare outcomes against the 200+umols PAR tanks
 

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