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Any help is very much appreciated.
What's going on with my plants?
Both my tanks have plants that suffer from stem melt, burnt leaf ends and minor yellowing, and minor pinholes.
From what I read, the issue with my plants looks like a potassium deficiency yet my potassium looks kind of high. Maybe my test kit is wrong. Or is something causing it to not be absorbed by plants? I also see my Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus has leaf curling, which I read is magnesium deficiency.
Tap water Measurements:
Plants(in both tanks):
Bronze cabomba
Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus
Dwarf Sagittaria
Hygrophila Polysperma 'sunset' ('Rosanervig')
Red melon sword
Random Bucephalandra
Hygrophila cordata 'Red'
Val Asiatica Biwaensis
Vallisneria leopard
Duckweed
Salvinia minima
Some other random plants but not sure what's left
These parameters and pics are the 20 gallon long.
The next post will be my 75 gallon.
Light:
FZONE LED Aquarium Light 36W (Light 60)
Both set for Siesta lights off from 11:30 to 2:45ish.
Measurements:
Fertilizers:
GLA AIO/S -
20gal dosage at WC: 4ml and 3x/wk: 1ml
Guaranteed Analysis:
Total Nitrogen (N): 2.00%
Available Phosphate (P₂O₃): 1.00%
Soluble Potash (K₂O): 10.00%
Total Magnesium (Mg): 0.50%
0.50% Water Soluble Magnesium (Mg)
Total Iron (Fe): 0.14%
0.14% Chelated Iron (Fe)
Total Other Micronutrients: 0.09%
0.014% Boron (B)
0.07% Chelated Manganese (Mn)
0.0001% Molybdenum (Mo)
0.007% Chelated Zinc (Zn)
Derived From:
Potassium Nitrate, Monopotassium Phosphate, Sulfate of Potash, Magnesium Sulfate, Iron DTPA, Boric Acid, Manganese EDTA, Sodium Molybdate, Zinc EDTA
K2SO4 - 2ml pump = 1ppm K (2ml 4x/wk) per 20gal
Fe DTPA 11% - 1ml pump = 0.1ppm (1ml 4x/week) per 20gal
CaSO4 - 1.93g = ~30ppm at water change
MgSO4 - 1.92g = ~10ppm at water change
I use Fzone root fertilizer spikes also.
What's going on with my plants?
Both my tanks have plants that suffer from stem melt, burnt leaf ends and minor yellowing, and minor pinholes.
From what I read, the issue with my plants looks like a potassium deficiency yet my potassium looks kind of high. Maybe my test kit is wrong. Or is something causing it to not be absorbed by plants? I also see my Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus has leaf curling, which I read is magnesium deficiency.
Tap water Measurements:
- Ammonia: 0ppm
- Nitrite: 0ppm
- Nitrate(Fluval/NT Labs){NO3-N (nitrate nitrogen)}: 0ppm
- pH: 6.8-6.9pH
- Phosphate: 4ppm
- Calcium(Monitor) : 20ppm
- Magnesium(Monitor) : 0ppm - turned green without titrate
- GH - dGH: 1-2dGH
- KH - dKH: 1dKH
- Iron chalated: 0ppm
- Potassium: 10ppm
Plants(in both tanks):
Bronze cabomba
Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus
Dwarf Sagittaria
Hygrophila Polysperma 'sunset' ('Rosanervig')
Red melon sword
Random Bucephalandra
Hygrophila cordata 'Red'
Val Asiatica Biwaensis
Vallisneria leopard
Duckweed
Salvinia minima
Some other random plants but not sure what's left
These parameters and pics are the 20 gallon long.
The next post will be my 75 gallon.
Light:
FZONE LED Aquarium Light 36W (Light 60)
Both set for Siesta lights off from 11:30 to 2:45ish.
Measurements:
- Ammonia: 0ppm
- Nitrite: 0ppm
- Nitrate(Fluval/NT Labs){NO3-N (nitrate nitrogen)}: 10ppm so about 44ppm on API kit (10x4.4)
- Phosphate: 3ppm
- pH: 7.5pH
- GH - dGH: 8dGH
- KH - dKH: 2dKH
- Potassium: 45ppm
- Calcium(Monitor) : 60ppm
- Magnesium(Monitor) : 36ppm
- Iron: 0ppm
- Iron (chelated) : 0.7ppm
Fertilizers:
GLA AIO/S -
20gal dosage at WC: 4ml and 3x/wk: 1ml
Guaranteed Analysis:
Total Nitrogen (N): 2.00%
Available Phosphate (P₂O₃): 1.00%
Soluble Potash (K₂O): 10.00%
Total Magnesium (Mg): 0.50%
0.50% Water Soluble Magnesium (Mg)
Total Iron (Fe): 0.14%
0.14% Chelated Iron (Fe)
Total Other Micronutrients: 0.09%
0.014% Boron (B)
0.07% Chelated Manganese (Mn)
0.0001% Molybdenum (Mo)
0.007% Chelated Zinc (Zn)
Derived From:
Potassium Nitrate, Monopotassium Phosphate, Sulfate of Potash, Magnesium Sulfate, Iron DTPA, Boric Acid, Manganese EDTA, Sodium Molybdate, Zinc EDTA
K2SO4 - 2ml pump = 1ppm K (2ml 4x/wk) per 20gal
Fe DTPA 11% - 1ml pump = 0.1ppm (1ml 4x/week) per 20gal
CaSO4 - 1.93g = ~30ppm at water change
MgSO4 - 1.92g = ~10ppm at water change
I use Fzone root fertilizer spikes also.
14 replies
·
1325 views
I have this pH tester. You're supposed to keep the probe wet in a specific preservative solution between uses. I have the correct solution. The problem is that it dries out so quickly. I go months between using it, and it dries out. Does anyone have an idea on how to keep it wet? I'm going to put a small piece of sponge in the bottom of the cap and see if that helps.
2 replies
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12 views
Started a new tank with the idea of show casing Lagenandra meeboldii which I have not showcased before. Wanted to feature Hygrophila lower Hlaingbwe, but I removed it later as I think it would be too large for this tank.
New substrate, new filter, squeezed filter mulm from the other matured tank, then ran the tank one week day before planting. 100% water change after planting, then 100% water change every other day since then. Dosing 1ml APT3 after water change day, and remineralizing to 5dGH using APT Sky. Trying out the low water column dosing approach for the initial period.
Filter: Oase 250
Lights: Week aqua a430 80%
Substrate: APT Feast
Was going to Journal about startup issues, however, it seems like the tank has already stabilized, skipping diatoms and green dust phase.
Freshly planted for a couple of days:
13/2/2026
Replanted the tops for Myriophyllum roraima, Cut and replanted Rotala blood red to begin building up the bush form. Trimmed old leaves
Foreground seems a bit blocky for now, so I think I'lll move stuff round again. Probably when the BV grows out some more.
Pic on 23/2/2026
Readings at this stage:
Potassium: 2.3ppm
Ammonia: 0.1ppm
reduce water changes to 2 times a week.
New substrate, new filter, squeezed filter mulm from the other matured tank, then ran the tank one week day before planting. 100% water change after planting, then 100% water change every other day since then. Dosing 1ml APT3 after water change day, and remineralizing to 5dGH using APT Sky. Trying out the low water column dosing approach for the initial period.
Filter: Oase 250
Lights: Week aqua a430 80%
Substrate: APT Feast
Was going to Journal about startup issues, however, it seems like the tank has already stabilized, skipping diatoms and green dust phase.
Freshly planted for a couple of days:
13/2/2026
Replanted the tops for Myriophyllum roraima, Cut and replanted Rotala blood red to begin building up the bush form. Trimmed old leaves
Foreground seems a bit blocky for now, so I think I'lll move stuff round again. Probably when the BV grows out some more.
Pic on 23/2/2026
Readings at this stage:
Potassium: 2.3ppm
Ammonia: 0.1ppm
reduce water changes to 2 times a week.
73 replies
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4862 views
Hi all
My Cambomba sometimes develops these roots from the nodes.
Rotala H'ra does it too, but not as aggressively as the Cambomba.
Any ideas why this happens?
My Cambomba sometimes develops these roots from the nodes.
Rotala H'ra does it too, but not as aggressively as the Cambomba.
Any ideas why this happens?
10 replies
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122 views
Tin Foil Hat Garlic in aquascapes
This Garlic-centric tank concept popped out on Facebook, wondered what you think about it.
0 replies
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16 views
replies
Legacy View
I want to buy a dozen marbeled hatchetfish for my 75 gallon, and everywhere I look they are sold out.
I know a large proportion are wild caught, I would guess after the rainy season with its explosion of breeding.
So is there a season they are more likely on the market?
I know a large proportion are wild caught, I would guess after the rainy season with its explosion of breeding.
So is there a season they are more likely on the market?
14 replies
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1101 views
Journal Farmer D. Singh's journal
Ive reorganized the order of my tanks so I can better keep track of them ie. Tank 2 moss tank is now tank 3. This helps in any confusion I had when tracking tanks they are in a sort of order now. Rather than taking time editing my old journal id rather create a new thread. Pics will be current (for the most part) as they are posted. I am not aquascaping. I am just farming.
17 replies
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789 views
This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!
1978 replies
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47069 views
Hi all,
First time posting! I was browsing FB and saw someone posted a picture of their tank. Was wondering if anyone could help me ID the plant middle left? Crypt?
Thank you for your help!
First time posting! I was browsing FB and saw someone posted a picture of their tank. Was wondering if anyone could help me ID the plant middle left? Crypt?
Thank you for your help!
4 replies
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85 views
Both tanks contain a lot of bucephalandra stems I have recently melted by feeding my caridina tanks with mulberry leaves. I have no idea what the heck happened but all buces melted in those tanks heavily over 3 days with every other plant + shrimp being fine. Don't wanna risk the plants dying so I'm throwing them back into high tech for a few months to recover.
Set Up:
Both tanks uses heavy co2 misting
Horticulture LED lights (dimmed, so probably 25-30 watts?)
Will steadily increase light weekly if I see no issues, max is 40 watts.
Dual sponge filters. (Air bubbles help prevent co2 gassing, also seems to really help stabilize tank, so less algae)
1 Internal filter with an atomizer for misting.
Regime:
All tanks get a 30-50% water change, twice per week.
Micros dosed daily (unless I forget, which happens fairly often.)
Macros Front Loaded and only in new incoming water.
6 Gallon bucket water change:
~350tds (Using seachem equilibrium remineralizer)
~22ppm KNO3, using KNO3 + KH2PO4
~40-50 ppm Potassium due to remineralizer
~4-5GH
Buce Lottery Colors
Lots of buces, various names, collected over the years. A lot of them were ultra rare and I cannot buy them anymore. Most of the ultra rare I probably accidentally killed from trying to grow them in a "no filter, no co2" style tank. Either way, not much color in low tech, will see what lottery colors we pull once they get going with better colors in higher lights + co2.
Both tanks are planted tightly front to back with bucephalandra. Kinda hard to see it all with moss blocking the way, but my view will be your view.
Random Mosses
Some mosses I've collected as well, honestly I grow a lot of them free floating so they kinda look the same. We will find out how they look after I attach them to something.
15 Gallon, very aged sand + pebble tank.
20 Gallon long, aged aquasoil I pulled from an existing caridina tank.
Wanted to take some macro shots, but does anyone know how to take an angle show on the glass without distortion? I have a DSLR long tube lens that works under water but color rendition is really bad.
Why so much moss?
Mostly to help stabilize the tank and to reduce light bleed. Less surface for algae to grow.
Set Up:
Both tanks uses heavy co2 misting
Horticulture LED lights (dimmed, so probably 25-30 watts?)
Will steadily increase light weekly if I see no issues, max is 40 watts.
Dual sponge filters. (Air bubbles help prevent co2 gassing, also seems to really help stabilize tank, so less algae)
1 Internal filter with an atomizer for misting.
Regime:
All tanks get a 30-50% water change, twice per week.
Micros dosed daily (unless I forget, which happens fairly often.)
Macros Front Loaded and only in new incoming water.
6 Gallon bucket water change:
~350tds (Using seachem equilibrium remineralizer)
~22ppm KNO3, using KNO3 + KH2PO4
~40-50 ppm Potassium due to remineralizer
~4-5GH
Buce Lottery Colors
Lots of buces, various names, collected over the years. A lot of them were ultra rare and I cannot buy them anymore. Most of the ultra rare I probably accidentally killed from trying to grow them in a "no filter, no co2" style tank. Either way, not much color in low tech, will see what lottery colors we pull once they get going with better colors in higher lights + co2.
Both tanks are planted tightly front to back with bucephalandra. Kinda hard to see it all with moss blocking the way, but my view will be your view.
Random Mosses
Some mosses I've collected as well, honestly I grow a lot of them free floating so they kinda look the same. We will find out how they look after I attach them to something.
15 Gallon, very aged sand + pebble tank.
20 Gallon long, aged aquasoil I pulled from an existing caridina tank.
Wanted to take some macro shots, but does anyone know how to take an angle show on the glass without distortion? I have a DSLR long tube lens that works under water but color rendition is really bad.
Why so much moss?
Mostly to help stabilize the tank and to reduce light bleed. Less surface for algae to grow.
11 replies
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753 views
The Biomaster Thermo 600 on my farm tank had been screaming at me lately that it was time for some TLC. It was doing the typical air sucking, hard to prime, small leaks, etc. all the indications it needed to be fully torn down and have all the gaskets/o-rings lubricated. This is the nice thing about having extra complete filters so I can have a pump head, heater, priming assembly, and inlet/outlet connection unit all cleaned, lubed and ready to go on an active filter. This is especially true for the Inlet/Outlet Connection Unit which seems to be the most common cause of leaks and air intrusion. For this reason, I also keep a couple new spares on hand because I've had a couple break in different ways. Today, while tearing the old one down to lube not only the two visible o-rings, but also the 3 buried within, I broke one of the retaining tabs that hold the inner portion in tightly against those buried o-rings. When I grabbed a new one that I'd just recently purchased, I noticed the visible o-rings were now orange instead of the normal black. They also look a little beefier. I wonder if this is Oase addressing the known common issues with this assembly and making some quiet updates and improvements.
Oh, and the farm tank filter is running great again...so far.
Oh, and the farm tank filter is running great again...so far.
14 replies
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591 views