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Hello Everyone,

So, 2 years ago I attempted my first Dutch aquarium that some of you may remember from various other forums.
It was this 10gal:

Unfortunately life got busy and this tank became a disaster a few weeks after this picture was shot.

The good news is today starts a new Dutch aquarium. Taking what I learned 2 years ago and hopefully applying more patience this time around for this 40gal:


This was literally setup today. And wanted to share my journey navigating the Dutch aquascaping scene.

Equipment:
Tank: 40gal breeder (36in x 18in x 16in)
Light - Fluval 3.0 Planted (Set to 80% for 6 hours with a ramp up and ramp down time of 1 hour total)
Filter - Aquaclear 70
Heater - Eheim Thermocontrol 125 - set to 72F/22C
CO2 - 10lb tank with Co2Art SE Pro regulator with intank diffuser (On 1.5 hours before lights on and off 2 hour before lights off)

Ferts:
Following @Unexpected fert numbers from his tank of the month post as a baseline to start. These are all front loaded besides the Micros:
NO3 30ppm
PO4 10ppm
K 40ppm
Fe .45ppm
Ca 24ppm
Mg 8ppm

pH and pH drop is currently unknown as I have tested it yet but will tomorrow after work to see numbers as the diffuser and check valve came in about an hour before lights on.
I am using a RO/DI unit that I have setup about 5 feet from the aquarium.

Plants:

1. alternanthera reineckii var. 'roseafolia' TC
2. bacopa carolina TC
3. bolbitis heaudelotii difformis TC
4. cryptocoryne lutea
5. cryptocoryne Crispatula TC
6. elocharis montevidensis
7. hygrophila salicifolia
8. hygrophila pinnatifida TC
9. hygrophila lancea araguaia TC
10. lobelia cardinalis TC
11. ludwigia repens
12. ludwigia palustiris
13. rotala H'ra TC
14. staurogyne repens TC

I am extremely excited to be able to start up another Dutch aquarium. and am looking forward to this journey. This aquarium is about 10ft from my desk in my mancave of the basement so it will get a lot of viewing from me.

Hey guys, needing some expert insight on my 90P build regarding the Yugang reactor. I’d like a sanity check on sizing.

System

• Display: 90 × 45 cm outside, 10 mm glass, so ~88 × 43 cm inside (~3,780 cm²), rimless, lidless.
• Sump: 20-gallon long (76 × 30 cm, ~2,280 cm²), 3 chambers, loose lid.
• About 220 L total water.
• Return enters below the surface; no deliberate surface agitation.
• BeanAnimal overflow, with the main draining underwater (no cascade).
• Currently cycling on tap water: KH 13, GH 12. The plan is RO remineralised to KH 3–4.

Reactor

• Horizontal Yugang, 3" Sch40 PVC (ID 77.9 mm), 46 cm long.
• Outlet rotated to near the limit of what my plumbing allows, so the pocket is much smaller than half-full.
• CO₂ flow meter at about 9 mL/min. That’s slightly over what it dissolves, so it gives small occasional burps.

What I measured

• Plateau: pH 6.80 at KH 13 ~ 60 ppm (pH/KH estimate). Degassed baseline pH at 8.2.
• Overnight decay after CO₂ off: k ≈ 0.12/h (half-life ~5.7 h). That implies a CO₂ exchange rate of ~4–7 cm/h, i.e. a calm surface.
• Working the 1/17.7 rule backwards from my reactor area (~180–358 cm² depending on rotation), my effective loss area is ~1,100–2,200 cm², against ~6,060 cm² of real water surface (display + sump).

Am I just way off on my surface agitation? I have mild ripples, but nothing overly agitating, but even without taking the sump into account, I should be seeing way more loss right? I'm planning on keeping neocaridina, so aiming for a 30-40ppm max, but even on my min setting I see ~55-60 ppm.



View attachment y2.mp4

This month's theme is: plant, hardscape and fish

This one is going to be tough but I hope some of you take up the challenge. Take a picture that captures a plant, some hardscape and at least one fish in the same picture.

Be as artistic and creative as you like.

The rules:

• Submissions are allowed between October 7 and October 23.
• Voting will start on October 23 at 12:01 am Eastern time.
• Voting will end on October 31 at 11:30 pm Eastern time.

The prize:

A $25 store credit from BurrAqua thanks to @Burr740!

Ive reorganized the order of my tanks so I can better keep track of them ie. Tank 2 moss tank is now tank 3. This helps in any confusion I had when tracking tanks they are in a sort of order now. Rather than taking time editing my old journal id rather create a new thread. Pics will be current (for the most part) as they are posted. I am not aquascaping. I am just farming.

If you've been in the aquarium hobby for a while, I'm sure you've created or picked up so valuable hacks that fall into the tips, tricks and time-savers categories. So, in an effort to compile and share them, let's post them here.

This site is about sharing knowledge and experiences so don't be shy, no hack is too small or silly.

Please post yours.

This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!

I hadn't seen it mentioned by others that attended Aquashella, but if you hadn't already heard about it or seen it in Aquashella videos, ADA has come out with Amazonia Pro. It's not a replacement for Version 2, but an addition. It is essentially Version 2 on steroids with higher nutrients and of course the negative side effect of potentially higher initial ammonia leaching and, if your not prepared and skilled, more chance of algae. That's even from the mouth of Homma-san himself. The scaping competitors were using it in the competition and AFA was selling 9l bags at the show. They said it would be available on the website within the next couple weeks.

Thoughts about Cedar driftwood in a planted tank? My research says it’s a bad idea, but curious if that has practical rationale behind it.

I bought a med-large piece from Belinda’s Driftwood. I was disappointed when it arrived and it was cedar. It’s obviously a buyer-beware situation.

I'm looking for recommendations for neocaridina retailers. I'd like to order them at the end of October, and have them shipped to Asheville NC.

Any recommendations?

I thought I would go ahead and get an early start on the journal for my next build. Still some prep work to complete but I was able to sneak some time in this evening to do some leak testing.

No need for a ton of media on this tank so I'll be using the "Temu" filters I recently talked about; one is a full foam prefilter and the other is part foam, part matrix. I failed to mention, when I posted my initial unboxing of the temu filters, that they do come in 2 sizes for each configuration, a 200 series, and the slightly larger 240 series. I think using the smaller 200 as the prefilter will work well in this setup. I was really surprised to see how much the foam expanded once it got wet. I may actually remove the top portion of foam in the filter with the matrix. Also, I confirmed the Netlea valves do work on the Temu filters.

I'm going with the MDP-2500 pump which may seem overkill for a 22g tank, but since it's 90cm in length, I want to make sure I have good flow end-to-end, and the 1500 pump I tried wasn't giving me quite what I wanted. I still also have to go through an inline heater as well, with several elbow fittings mixed in. I'll be able to adjust this pump down to just what I want. I'm also using the 3D printed barbs I modeled with the pump. I initially had issues with my elbow fittings leaking just as @renesis did on their high tech build. After seeing renesis's fix of coating the elbow with epoxy, I was about to try the same but realized I had a small can of spray-on Flex Seal so thought I'd give that a try. So far, it seems to be working fine on the elbow fitting. I do have a small leak on the output straight fitting but I think that's a different issue.

Otherwise, no other leaks which surprised me as I was expecting some on my DIY CO2 reactor which is a bit different design than my previous builds. It's working great and I want to give a shoutout to @Yugang for the idea of simply using some teflon sealing tape to seal the PVC caps to the Acrylic tube. You don't even need many wraps. I made the mistake of using too much on one end and when I tried to take it back off, it was quite a struggle, almost as if I had glued it, so trust me, as long as your cap I.D. matches your pipe O.D., a few wraps should do the trick.

More to come.