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By request I am adding this for reference. I am sure I am not the first person to do this although I have not found it documented elsewhere.
Anyway, I would like to share with the group a simple method I have developed injecting a nutrient soil (in my case an aquatic compost) under a top layer of gravel/sand.
Like many of you, I expect, I have found myself in the position of having a tank running with an inert substrate and wanting to grow rooted plants in it. Some I have found do well with just water column dosing but some have still struggled despite me providing excellent water column levels of nutrients and doing my best with root tabs. So I found myself wishing I had set up the tank with a bottom nutrient layer of soil. However, the tank in question was a 500 litre, very established and hardscaped, planted tank with a lot of livestock. I just dreaded the thought of taking it down and redoing it with something like aquatic compost as a bottom layer. I tried putting aquasoil in mesh bags under areas of gravel. THis showed promise but I found it hard to plant things on top of it because I hit the bag quite early as the layer of gravel was not deep enough. Hence I got to further thinking how I might get the compost under the gravel without disturbing everything. I have developed a method of "injecting" it under the gravel which is working an absolute treat, with virtually no fouling of the water at all. It can be very locally placed for individual plants, so species which are fine with water column dosing can be left undisturbed.
I start off with cutting the end off a 10ml plastic syringe. The cut end is smoothed with abrasive paper.
The syringe is loaded up with a bolus of slightly damp aquatic compost. I usually use a whole syringe full.
Fingers are dipped in a mug or bowl of water to clean them and the outside of the syringe is cleaned with damp kitchen paper. All to reduce any fouling of the water column.
A finger is put over the end of the syringe to stop leakage. This is why a 10 ml syringe is the perfect size (for my fat fingers anyway).
The end of the syringe is inserted underneath the gravel to the bottom of the tank, the finger removed and the bolus of compost is injected . Then wiggle the syringe out of the gravel/sand to encourage the gravel/sand to seal the hole and the syringe is slowly removed.
As a basic principle of cleanly injecting a soil-type substance under sand/gravel it's incredibly simple and yet works extremely well. Can be a good root tab alternative too. Its also
surprising how quickly one can implant quite a significant amount of soil once you get into a rhythm.
Anyway, I would like to share with the group a simple method I have developed injecting a nutrient soil (in my case an aquatic compost) under a top layer of gravel/sand.
Like many of you, I expect, I have found myself in the position of having a tank running with an inert substrate and wanting to grow rooted plants in it. Some I have found do well with just water column dosing but some have still struggled despite me providing excellent water column levels of nutrients and doing my best with root tabs. So I found myself wishing I had set up the tank with a bottom nutrient layer of soil. However, the tank in question was a 500 litre, very established and hardscaped, planted tank with a lot of livestock. I just dreaded the thought of taking it down and redoing it with something like aquatic compost as a bottom layer. I tried putting aquasoil in mesh bags under areas of gravel. THis showed promise but I found it hard to plant things on top of it because I hit the bag quite early as the layer of gravel was not deep enough. Hence I got to further thinking how I might get the compost under the gravel without disturbing everything. I have developed a method of "injecting" it under the gravel which is working an absolute treat, with virtually no fouling of the water at all. It can be very locally placed for individual plants, so species which are fine with water column dosing can be left undisturbed.
I start off with cutting the end off a 10ml plastic syringe. The cut end is smoothed with abrasive paper.
The syringe is loaded up with a bolus of slightly damp aquatic compost. I usually use a whole syringe full.
Fingers are dipped in a mug or bowl of water to clean them and the outside of the syringe is cleaned with damp kitchen paper. All to reduce any fouling of the water column.
A finger is put over the end of the syringe to stop leakage. This is why a 10 ml syringe is the perfect size (for my fat fingers anyway).
The end of the syringe is inserted underneath the gravel to the bottom of the tank, the finger removed and the bolus of compost is injected . Then wiggle the syringe out of the gravel/sand to encourage the gravel/sand to seal the hole and the syringe is slowly removed.
As a basic principle of cleanly injecting a soil-type substance under sand/gravel it's incredibly simple and yet works extremely well. Can be a good root tab alternative too. Its also
surprising how quickly one can implant quite a significant amount of soil once you get into a rhythm.
13 replies
·
1102 views
(I hope this is acceptable as the start of a journal, new here).
Greetings, I’m Alec and this will be my third aquascape. I plan on rescaping my 60p (current scape pic below). The first time I did it, I sort of winged it in the moment. The second time, I came in with a design but it wasn’t strong enough and slowly was buried by aquasoil and plants.
So this time I’m coming in with those learnings and trying to design with intention.
Second pic below is my potential new hardscaping.
I have never done an island composition, and usually I am not a fan of them visually. But while messing around with my rocks I found this tower layout impressive.
My idea is to have the right side be a lower sandy area with some smaller rocks (not shown in pic) along with my big ass Anubias and the various crypts as well. Floaters would be above this area.
Front middle and left would be the Monte Carlo carpet, along with some Ludwigia or other stems tucked along the rocks to become bushes.
Tucked into the cracks of the rocks would be Monte Carlo & Java moss to accent it, along with my Hygrophilia.
Back-left would be stem-city. Big Rotala area with some Bacopa and Ludwigia in front of it, especially towards the center.
The middle area surrounding the top tower rock itself would be Cardamine Lyrata, as it grows naturally well in vertical bushes.
Focal point to the right of the top of the tower stone would be Ludwigia Diamond, which gets decently red.
Looking for potential feedback from those with more experience! Some of my concerns:
1. My Anubias are massive, at least for the small. I’m mostly saving them for my fiancés betta tank we hope to setup later this year. I’m a bit worried they won’t fit well into the right side area.
2. The tower is very central, which is the point of island compositions, but I worry my plants might detract from the island look, especially with my plans for the left side.
3. A commenter on my Reddit thread suggested I remove the left side “slope cliff”, instead do another smaller tower there with a sand path. Thoughts?
Thank you for reading. I will probably update this journal with other composition ideas & tweaks as I go, and of course progress pics once I actually rescape it.
Greetings, I’m Alec and this will be my third aquascape. I plan on rescaping my 60p (current scape pic below). The first time I did it, I sort of winged it in the moment. The second time, I came in with a design but it wasn’t strong enough and slowly was buried by aquasoil and plants.
So this time I’m coming in with those learnings and trying to design with intention.
Second pic below is my potential new hardscaping.
I have never done an island composition, and usually I am not a fan of them visually. But while messing around with my rocks I found this tower layout impressive.
My idea is to have the right side be a lower sandy area with some smaller rocks (not shown in pic) along with my big ass Anubias and the various crypts as well. Floaters would be above this area.
Front middle and left would be the Monte Carlo carpet, along with some Ludwigia or other stems tucked along the rocks to become bushes.
Tucked into the cracks of the rocks would be Monte Carlo & Java moss to accent it, along with my Hygrophilia.
Back-left would be stem-city. Big Rotala area with some Bacopa and Ludwigia in front of it, especially towards the center.
The middle area surrounding the top tower rock itself would be Cardamine Lyrata, as it grows naturally well in vertical bushes.
Focal point to the right of the top of the tower stone would be Ludwigia Diamond, which gets decently red.
Looking for potential feedback from those with more experience! Some of my concerns:
1. My Anubias are massive, at least for the small. I’m mostly saving them for my fiancés betta tank we hope to setup later this year. I’m a bit worried they won’t fit well into the right side area.
2. The tower is very central, which is the point of island compositions, but I worry my plants might detract from the island look, especially with my plans for the left side.
3. A commenter on my Reddit thread suggested I remove the left side “slope cliff”, instead do another smaller tower there with a sand path. Thoughts?
Thank you for reading. I will probably update this journal with other composition ideas & tweaks as I go, and of course progress pics once I actually rescape it.
8 replies
·
392 views
Journal First high tech setup.
I’m excited to see how this grows and changes. It’s my first scape and setup that’s high tech. I’m hoping to get rid of the ugly filter intake and outage but haven’t found good info on what lily pipes to get and tubing and how to install them on my fluval 107 canister filter so that is next on my list. Stocking right now is 12 green neon tetras, 10 emerald dwarf rasboras and 6 amano shrimp. I’m currently not fertilizing because I’m struggling with high nitrates.
38 replies
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584 views
There are several threads discussing the new Aquael Hypermax 4500BT. I'm sure many would like some reports on it's performance over time. We have a thread discussing nano canister filters. We're all waiting for one of @Naturescapes_Rocco in depth write-ups discussing his filtration set-up. @Pepere and @*Ci* have unique set-ups as well, @Kwyet has used a matten filter, and we have several other members running sumps. That doesn't even include all those running sponge and HOB filters.
The idea is that we can consolidate a lot of filter information in one place making it easier to find rather than searching through so many threads. Maybe this won't work but I thought it was worth giving it a try. Perhaps it may be better listed as an article at some point.
I'm going to get things started by discussing factors I feel are most important to me when choosing a filter.
1) Filtration Performance: This goes without saying. The filter’s primary job is to keep our water clean and free of anything that harms the inhabitants. Of course, there are multiple factors that play into this. Some say flow is most critical, while others claim media volume is most important. Are there other factors? I still have limited experience, but my view, having done considerable reading, is that flow tends to be a bit overblown. You’ll see recommendations of anywhere from 4 to 10 times turnover rate with most leaning toward the higher end of that. I don’t think turnover rate is really the detail to be concerned about, at least with heavily planted tanks like are the norm here. I think the focus should be simply on ensuring flow achieves the goal of effectively moving water through the system to remove toxins/waste, delivering nutrients, and aiding gas (oxygen/CO2) transfer. If a turnover rate of 3 or 4 does that without dead spots in the tank, you should be good. After all, most of us here are plant focused and therefore, the fish we generally have are smaller community species that typically don’t care for high flow (there are, of course, exceptions).
I think there’s a simpler answer regarding media volume; more is better. Obviously, there must be a balance between internal volume and overall size of the filter. Real estate in and around our aquarium stands is precious. Filters like the Fluval FX6 and the newest Aquael Hypermax are huge. If you’re going for one of those, you’re likely putting it on a large tank with plenty of space underneath but again, it’s a matter of finding the right balance that provides the performance you need in a manageable size.
2) Reliability/Durability: This is where solid reviews come in handy and why getting feedback from users here is invaluable. Filtration performance becomes moot if the filter isn’t running, or worse yet, just flooded your house. Being able to easily source spare parts is also valuable, which is why sticking to the top well-known brands is often a safe route. It’s also why many aquarists place canister filters in protective containers, something else to consider when taking into account, size of filter. (this is something I should really do as I’ve had to clean up a few significant spills after filter maintenance and not getting the top secured in place properly
)
3) Tie – Maintenance/Noise Level: These two factors are equally important to me. If the filter is a pain to maintain, I’m going to put it off, and that’s bad. It affects the performance. But equally important to me is how noisy it is. I tend to be sensitive to annoying little sounds regardless of where I am; at home, in the car, at work, you name it. If the aquarium is in a part of the house I spend a lot of time in, well then, it’s even more important.
I don’t know if Oase was first to do it, but the idea of the prefilter was, I think, a game changer for many. I imagine it was derived from people installing foam filters on the intake pipes. Having an easily removable section with foam filters that catch a lot of large particles before entering the primary filter chamber is a great idea, resulting in expanded intervals between main filter head removals for cleaning.
Another aspect of maintenance is ease of priming. This could also be an aspect of performance but I don’t think it is quite as important. I’m not sure there is a canister filter that is truly or consistently easy to prime. Some may start out that way, but over time, become less and less so. This is an area I’d really like to see product designers put more serious thought. My experience so far is with Oase and the Fluval 07 series. Hated the Fuval priming and I’m just so-so with the Oase. Let me know your experience with priming other brands.
As for noise, I don’t mind the slight hum of an impeller as long as it’s steady and consistent, much the same way some people, including myself when I was younger, like the smooth steady sound of a fan at night to help them sleep. It’s when the sound becomes inconsistent, I’m bothered. I also don’t care for the sound of splashing/trickling water while I’m focused on other things. Only when I’m camping near the banks of a creek or other body of water is this OK
. This is one of the main reasons I’m not a fan of HOB filters. I’m also tweaking my CO2 reactor designs to minimize the bubble sounds of CO2 entering the reactor.
4) Cost: Let’s be clear, the cost doesn’t stop when you pay the retail price for the filter. There’s the cost of media and spare parts plus the cost of electricity. What’s the rated wattage of the filter. I see the Aquael filters claim to consume lower power and are therefore cheaper to run. What about special filter cartridges or foam. Is it easy to cut foam filters from inexpensive bulk material? How often are gasket replacements necessary, or are there common issues with parts failing over time. Of two Fluval 07 filters I’ve used, both needed replacement impeller shafts. Oase Biomaster filters seem to have an issue with the input/output head often needing replaced.
I admit cost isn’t a critical factor for me, but I know it is for many others, so this is another instance where finding the right balance is key, in this case, the balance between price and performance.
Share your thoughts. Do these factors seem to align with yours or do you think I’m way off base. Tell us what types and brands of filters you prefer and why.
The idea is that we can consolidate a lot of filter information in one place making it easier to find rather than searching through so many threads. Maybe this won't work but I thought it was worth giving it a try. Perhaps it may be better listed as an article at some point.
I'm going to get things started by discussing factors I feel are most important to me when choosing a filter.
1) Filtration Performance: This goes without saying. The filter’s primary job is to keep our water clean and free of anything that harms the inhabitants. Of course, there are multiple factors that play into this. Some say flow is most critical, while others claim media volume is most important. Are there other factors? I still have limited experience, but my view, having done considerable reading, is that flow tends to be a bit overblown. You’ll see recommendations of anywhere from 4 to 10 times turnover rate with most leaning toward the higher end of that. I don’t think turnover rate is really the detail to be concerned about, at least with heavily planted tanks like are the norm here. I think the focus should be simply on ensuring flow achieves the goal of effectively moving water through the system to remove toxins/waste, delivering nutrients, and aiding gas (oxygen/CO2) transfer. If a turnover rate of 3 or 4 does that without dead spots in the tank, you should be good. After all, most of us here are plant focused and therefore, the fish we generally have are smaller community species that typically don’t care for high flow (there are, of course, exceptions).
I think there’s a simpler answer regarding media volume; more is better. Obviously, there must be a balance between internal volume and overall size of the filter. Real estate in and around our aquarium stands is precious. Filters like the Fluval FX6 and the newest Aquael Hypermax are huge. If you’re going for one of those, you’re likely putting it on a large tank with plenty of space underneath but again, it’s a matter of finding the right balance that provides the performance you need in a manageable size.
2) Reliability/Durability: This is where solid reviews come in handy and why getting feedback from users here is invaluable. Filtration performance becomes moot if the filter isn’t running, or worse yet, just flooded your house. Being able to easily source spare parts is also valuable, which is why sticking to the top well-known brands is often a safe route. It’s also why many aquarists place canister filters in protective containers, something else to consider when taking into account, size of filter. (this is something I should really do as I’ve had to clean up a few significant spills after filter maintenance and not getting the top secured in place properly
)3) Tie – Maintenance/Noise Level: These two factors are equally important to me. If the filter is a pain to maintain, I’m going to put it off, and that’s bad. It affects the performance. But equally important to me is how noisy it is. I tend to be sensitive to annoying little sounds regardless of where I am; at home, in the car, at work, you name it. If the aquarium is in a part of the house I spend a lot of time in, well then, it’s even more important.
I don’t know if Oase was first to do it, but the idea of the prefilter was, I think, a game changer for many. I imagine it was derived from people installing foam filters on the intake pipes. Having an easily removable section with foam filters that catch a lot of large particles before entering the primary filter chamber is a great idea, resulting in expanded intervals between main filter head removals for cleaning.
Another aspect of maintenance is ease of priming. This could also be an aspect of performance but I don’t think it is quite as important. I’m not sure there is a canister filter that is truly or consistently easy to prime. Some may start out that way, but over time, become less and less so. This is an area I’d really like to see product designers put more serious thought. My experience so far is with Oase and the Fluval 07 series. Hated the Fuval priming and I’m just so-so with the Oase. Let me know your experience with priming other brands.
As for noise, I don’t mind the slight hum of an impeller as long as it’s steady and consistent, much the same way some people, including myself when I was younger, like the smooth steady sound of a fan at night to help them sleep. It’s when the sound becomes inconsistent, I’m bothered. I also don’t care for the sound of splashing/trickling water while I’m focused on other things. Only when I’m camping near the banks of a creek or other body of water is this OK
. This is one of the main reasons I’m not a fan of HOB filters. I’m also tweaking my CO2 reactor designs to minimize the bubble sounds of CO2 entering the reactor.4) Cost: Let’s be clear, the cost doesn’t stop when you pay the retail price for the filter. There’s the cost of media and spare parts plus the cost of electricity. What’s the rated wattage of the filter. I see the Aquael filters claim to consume lower power and are therefore cheaper to run. What about special filter cartridges or foam. Is it easy to cut foam filters from inexpensive bulk material? How often are gasket replacements necessary, or are there common issues with parts failing over time. Of two Fluval 07 filters I’ve used, both needed replacement impeller shafts. Oase Biomaster filters seem to have an issue with the input/output head often needing replaced.
I admit cost isn’t a critical factor for me, but I know it is for many others, so this is another instance where finding the right balance is key, in this case, the balance between price and performance.
Share your thoughts. Do these factors seem to align with yours or do you think I’m way off base. Tell us what types and brands of filters you prefer and why.
81 replies
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3776 views
Hi guys. I wanted people’s thoughts and experiences with Aquael’s Hypermax 4500 or any of their other large canisters. Currently I have a custom 100 gallon heavy stocked planted aquarium running on a sump that I need to downsize. I’ll be getting a 90 gallon and was thinking about getting the Aquael Hypermax 4500 for it. Thanks for the help.
1 replies
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14 views
Hello Welcome, CodyG
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @CodyG!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
1 replies
·
12 views
Journal 55G Eternal Newbie Planted Tank
Hi to all, here is the journal of my single tank that I set up 2 years ago or so. Last February I changed the substrate but I neglected the tank for a month. Fortunately the new substrate and medium-low light prevented the disaster, but I got a lot of BBA on slow growers like Eriocaulon, Anubias and Cryptocoryne.
This is a second hand tank, it was cheap and had a stand included, but it is what it is.
Why "Eternal Newbie"? Because I have been in the hobby for ten years, but I have never reached what I wanted the most: a steadily healthy planted tank with a nice scape. At the beginning my failures were due to bad suggestions, but then because of me: mainly due to my impatience for results and always looking for perfection. Basically, I had short spells of healthy growth interrupted by long periods of chaos in the tank. Because I changed too many things too fast, I never had the chance to understand what was actually effective.
17th April
Tank size: 120x40x52h cm, 47x15,7x20,5h inches
26th April
Citizens:
22x Black neons (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi)
7x Otocinclus (I'd like to bring them to 12-15)
1x female Pearl Gourami (Trichoporus leeri)
2x Amano shrimps
I feed the black neons and the pearl gourami well, small doses 2-3 times a day.
5th May
Plants:
7th May
Substrate: Tropica Aquarium soil, 3 months old. I added a lot of MasterLine root caps under it to boost it. Then three weeks ago I tried to add them again, but it's a PITA, so I think I will use only liquid fertilizers.
Light
Week Aqua P1200 Pro V3, 11" above water surface
47% R/ 50% G/ 47% B/ 15% UV
8h + 0,5 h ramp up and 0,5 h ramp down
Filter: Tetra ex 1500 plus
CO2: solenoid valve with timer. The filter uses hoses with strange ID/OD, 22/27 mm or so. I am simply injecting CO2 in the filter because I couldn't find a solution for these hoses... Now I have found a CO2 reactor and a hose that hopefully fit both without restricting the flow too much. Let's see in a couple of weeks.
Mantainance: weekly 75% WC. tap water only until two weeks ago (KH lowered to roughly 2 with a solution of HCl+H2SO4), then 5/8 Tap (with KH still lowered to 2) + 3/8 RO.
My tap water contains (ppm): Ca 50, Mg 18, HCO3- 200, Cl- <2, SO4(2-) 24, K<0,5, Na 1, NO3- 4.
By mixing 5/8 tap with 3/8 RO I should get roughly 32 ppm Ca, 11 pm Mg, KH 1.
I am trying to clean the substrate at every water change, since the black neons poop a lots.
Fertilization with KNO3, K2SO4 (dry dosed), KH2PO4 (dry dosed), MasterLine I, Iron gluconate (dry dosed), MasterLine Carbo
NO3-: 24 ppm (I used to dose 15 ppm until 3 weeks ago); 18 ppm after WC then 6 ppm.
K: 28 ppm, a bit more considering what I say about P.
PO4(3-): I have bought a JBL test and I tested them last week: when I dose 4 ppm I get less than 1 ppm after 48h. The soil is still absorbing a lot of PO4(3-), so I am goin to dose 4 ppm after WC, then 2 ppm everyday.
Fe/Micro: 7,5 ml of MasterLine 1 daily (0,07 ppm Fe) + 0,03 ppm iron gluconate daily (dry dosed)
MasterLine Carbo 7,5 ml daily and after WC. I think to stop it once I run out of it, but it will take me 4-5 months.
11th May (today)
Algae:
Objectives/To do list:
This is a second hand tank, it was cheap and had a stand included, but it is what it is.
Why "Eternal Newbie"? Because I have been in the hobby for ten years, but I have never reached what I wanted the most: a steadily healthy planted tank with a nice scape. At the beginning my failures were due to bad suggestions, but then because of me: mainly due to my impatience for results and always looking for perfection. Basically, I had short spells of healthy growth interrupted by long periods of chaos in the tank. Because I changed too many things too fast, I never had the chance to understand what was actually effective.
17th April
Tank size: 120x40x52h cm, 47x15,7x20,5h inches
26th April
Citizens:
22x Black neons (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi)
7x Otocinclus (I'd like to bring them to 12-15)
1x female Pearl Gourami (Trichoporus leeri)
2x Amano shrimps
I feed the black neons and the pearl gourami well, small doses 2-3 times a day.
5th May
Plants:
- Heteranthera zosterifolia
- Lysimachia parvifolia
- Ludwigia palustris 'Green' (added two weeks ago, arrived in bad conditions)
- Staurogyne repens (added two weeks ago, emersed form adapting)
- Ludwigia sp. "Mini Super Red"
- Eriocaulon sp. "Vietnam" (BBA on old leaves, bad conditions)
- Pogostemon deccanensis (it has never grown well but I don't surrender)
- Lysimachia nummularia
- Lysimachia nummularia "Aurea"
- Hygrophila polysperma "Rosanervig"
- Bacopa salzmannii "Purple" (added two weeks ago, emersed form)
- Bacopa monnieri "Compact"
- Bacopa monnieri "Compact White (added two week ago, in vitro, getting GDA or diatoms)
- Cryptocoryne wendtii "Flamingo" (never grown well, last chance.)
- Nymphoides sp. "Taiwan" (added two weeks ago, in vitro)
- Anubias barteri var. nana "Pinto"
- A big Anubias congensis (probably wrong name by the producer), it was given to me for free but I don't think I have the space for it.
- Floaters: Limnobium laevigatum, Spirodela polyrhiza, Hydrocotyle leucocephala
- Hanging pots (still working on them): Gymnocoronis spilanthoides, an unknown plant I took from a lake round here
7th May
Substrate: Tropica Aquarium soil, 3 months old. I added a lot of MasterLine root caps under it to boost it. Then three weeks ago I tried to add them again, but it's a PITA, so I think I will use only liquid fertilizers.
Light
Week Aqua P1200 Pro V3, 11" above water surface
47% R/ 50% G/ 47% B/ 15% UV
8h + 0,5 h ramp up and 0,5 h ramp down
Filter: Tetra ex 1500 plus
CO2: solenoid valve with timer. The filter uses hoses with strange ID/OD, 22/27 mm or so. I am simply injecting CO2 in the filter because I couldn't find a solution for these hoses... Now I have found a CO2 reactor and a hose that hopefully fit both without restricting the flow too much. Let's see in a couple of weeks.
Mantainance: weekly 75% WC. tap water only until two weeks ago (KH lowered to roughly 2 with a solution of HCl+H2SO4), then 5/8 Tap (with KH still lowered to 2) + 3/8 RO.
My tap water contains (ppm): Ca 50, Mg 18, HCO3- 200, Cl- <2, SO4(2-) 24, K<0,5, Na 1, NO3- 4.
By mixing 5/8 tap with 3/8 RO I should get roughly 32 ppm Ca, 11 pm Mg, KH 1.
I am trying to clean the substrate at every water change, since the black neons poop a lots.
Fertilization with KNO3, K2SO4 (dry dosed), KH2PO4 (dry dosed), MasterLine I, Iron gluconate (dry dosed), MasterLine Carbo
NO3-: 24 ppm (I used to dose 15 ppm until 3 weeks ago); 18 ppm after WC then 6 ppm.
K: 28 ppm, a bit more considering what I say about P.
PO4(3-): I have bought a JBL test and I tested them last week: when I dose 4 ppm I get less than 1 ppm after 48h. The soil is still absorbing a lot of PO4(3-), so I am goin to dose 4 ppm after WC, then 2 ppm everyday.
Fe/Micro: 7,5 ml of MasterLine 1 daily (0,07 ppm Fe) + 0,03 ppm iron gluconate daily (dry dosed)
MasterLine Carbo 7,5 ml daily and after WC. I think to stop it once I run out of it, but it will take me 4-5 months.
11th May (today)
Algae:
- GSA on glass and old leaves of Lysimachia parvifolia
- diatoms (I think) on floaters' roots and Bacopa monnieri 'White'
- BBA on old leaves of slow growers and recently on glass
Objectives/To do list:
- be patient
- be positive and do not focus only on what is not doing well
- clean the rear and side glass
- install the CO2 reactor (need to wait)
- install the Oase skimmer and tidy up the hanging pots and floating plants
- keep the journal updated!
17 replies
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384 views
Just spent a little while browsing through this thread list. Was hoping to figure out a solution for fertilizing all of my tanks without spending so much money. I currently have 8 tanks at varying levels of complexity and am also brainstorming a bowl and at least 4 other tanks. So- lots of fertilizer. But man!! I feel like apt3 will not last me long. Especially if I’m front dosing (I think that’s what Rocco called it) like was recommended in my journal post.
After reading through some of these posts I wonder if I have the comprehension skills to be able to do some of these things I see resources for! I’m so glad to have found this site. Def wish the app worked for me though.
After reading through some of these posts I wonder if I have the comprehension skills to be able to do some of these things I see resources for! I’m so glad to have found this site. Def wish the app worked for me though.
6 replies
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93 views
Question of the Day Hobby Hacks - your best tips, tricks and time-savers!
If you've been in the aquarium hobby for a while, I'm sure you've created or picked up so valuable hacks that fall into the tips, tricks and time-savers categories. So, in an effort to compile and share them, let's post them here.
This site is about sharing knowledge and experiences so don't be shy, no hack is too small or silly.
Please post yours.
This site is about sharing knowledge and experiences so don't be shy, no hack is too small or silly.
Please post yours.
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I came into some Hygrophila polysperma "white" by Tropica recently. Grew it out and it seems to be able to be shaped into good midground bushes so I decided to create a layout to showcase it. Contemplated whether to use it as the only white plant in the tank, but decided to use some Anubias white petite as well so that the white polysperma doesn't stand out awkwardly.
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Hello Welcome, framon.chem
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @framon.chem!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
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