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Not new to the hobby, and in the past, did "play" with Walstad-inspired tanks and bowls quite successfully. Several months ago, started watching Father Fish' videos, and five days ago (3/28/24), I put together my very first Father Fish-inspired 10 gallon tank. As I later learned, I made a huge mistake by going with Father Fish' older video, in which his recommendation about the content of the dirt is COMPLETELY OFF from his "updated" list today
As I later learned--too late for me, sadly--his "new, updated" list calls for zero compost, zero "snail food" and MUCH less baking soda (in this video above, he uses 1 cup of baking soda per 55 gallon while his current recommendation calls for 1 tablespoon per 100 gallon). So, going by his 4y.o. video--which he clearly was too busy to delete or correct... something I find to be very irresponsible and can't help being very angry about--it would have been 8.7 teaspoons per 10 gallon tank (since there are 16 tablespoons / 48 teaspoons in 1 cup). So, when I put in 5 teaspoons, it felt like "being conservative", "being on the safe side". Instead, going by his "updated list", I am leaps and bounds ABOVE the recommended amount (my tap water here in Arizona is hard as it is). Plus, at least 25% of my dirt is compost, some fish flakes (instead of snail food that he was using in his video), bone meal, also some spirulina powder... so LOTS of organics
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Today is day 5. I have a LOT of "pocket spaces" building in the sand layer of the substrate, creating large "cracks". When I pock through the sand with planting tweezers, huge bubbles of gas with a strong odor of rotten eggs (sulfur) come up to the surface. How normal or abnormal is this? My understanding is this being produced by “sulfur bacteria” as the result of decomposition of organics. From what I am reading, “sulfur bacteria” can produce "slime" that feeds other types of bacteria. It does seem like a problematic scenario that can easily lead to bacterial bloom. This sounds like a recipe for disaster. Is this aquarium doomed or there is still hope? Getting it redone is really out of question at this time. Obviously, I will not be putting any fish into this sulfur-burping mess of a tank until and if I am able to stabilize it.
What can I do--if anything--to help this tank be viable long term? Thanks so much in advance!
As I later learned--too late for me, sadly--his "new, updated" list calls for zero compost, zero "snail food" and MUCH less baking soda (in this video above, he uses 1 cup of baking soda per 55 gallon while his current recommendation calls for 1 tablespoon per 100 gallon). So, going by his 4y.o. video--which he clearly was too busy to delete or correct... something I find to be very irresponsible and can't help being very angry about--it would have been 8.7 teaspoons per 10 gallon tank (since there are 16 tablespoons / 48 teaspoons in 1 cup). So, when I put in 5 teaspoons, it felt like "being conservative", "being on the safe side". Instead, going by his "updated list", I am leaps and bounds ABOVE the recommended amount (my tap water here in Arizona is hard as it is). Plus, at least 25% of my dirt is compost, some fish flakes (instead of snail food that he was using in his video), bone meal, also some spirulina powder... so LOTS of organics
.Today is day 5. I have a LOT of "pocket spaces" building in the sand layer of the substrate, creating large "cracks". When I pock through the sand with planting tweezers, huge bubbles of gas with a strong odor of rotten eggs (sulfur) come up to the surface. How normal or abnormal is this? My understanding is this being produced by “sulfur bacteria” as the result of decomposition of organics. From what I am reading, “sulfur bacteria” can produce "slime" that feeds other types of bacteria. It does seem like a problematic scenario that can easily lead to bacterial bloom. This sounds like a recipe for disaster. Is this aquarium doomed or there is still hope? Getting it redone is really out of question at this time. Obviously, I will not be putting any fish into this sulfur-burping mess of a tank until and if I am able to stabilize it.
What can I do--if anything--to help this tank be viable long term? Thanks so much in advance!
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I've really been digging pearlweed in my low tech tank, and thinking of growing a shaped pearlweed bush in my high tech experiment tank.
But I came across this listing for a white/platinum variety of pearlweed. Can't find any info on it anywhere. So I ordered 5 stems, the most expensive pearlweed stems on earth!
Think it'll actually survive/be platinum or light colored?
We really need some lighter colored plants in this hobby. Myrio 'Golden' is one I've successfully used, but it grows too crazy and the trimmings drove me nuts so I ditched it. What other white/platinum plants are there?
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I wasn’t sure if this or the equipment forum was the best place to post this.i have an120U coming from my LFS and will be building the stand for it along with some built in cabinets for my living room.
I was hoping someone with a UNS 120U could post some photos of the interior of the stand? Or a 150U would also work.
I just want to get an idea for the support and bracing on the inside of the cabinet. I’ve built a stand before but nothing holding that much water lol
I was hoping someone with a UNS 120U could post some photos of the interior of the stand? Or a 150U would also work.
I just want to get an idea for the support and bracing on the inside of the cabinet. I’ve built a stand before but nothing holding that much water lol
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Does anyone have any experience at all with the skylight hyperspot light? I’m in the United States and I got one second hand and lightly used but I cannot figure out how to get it connected to the app at all. I don’t see its WiFi in my wifi or anything. It did come with the control attached to the cord but I haven’t figured out how to set that for auto on and off yet. Help.
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Hello Welcome, BIckeroo
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @BIckeroo!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
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Legacy View
Journal 120cm rimless garden
This tank is really hitting its stride. I drained it for almost a year as life got busy, but things are more routine now, and I started this up right after the new year.
- This is a 120cm x 60cm x 50cm rimless aquarium.
- The substrate is inert Black Diamond Blasting Sand (BDBS).
- I live in an area where our water is liquid rock, so I use Reverse Osmosis water reconstituted with APT Sky.
- I use the Estimative Index (EI) for my fertilizer routine using dry salts, with macros added on water change day, and a little extra mid week. Micros (CSMB) are added every other day.
- The tank gets weekly 90% water changes and carefully vacuum up and debris from the surface of the sand. At this time I do basic plant trimming and management. Large water changes keep a lot of the excess organics low, which helps to keep this tank balanced and free of algae. It takes about an hour a week.
‐ Every few months, every single stem gets removed, the BDBS substrate is stirred lightly, along with a 90% water change and then replanted with 2 or 3 stems of each plant I want to keep.
- I use a canister filter that is connected to a CO2 reactor that I inject pressurized CO2 into through a regulator. This helps the CO2 to dissolve in the water completely and be evenly distributed around the tank.
- Lighting is provided by 2 x Chihiros LED pendant lights. They have an app that is nice to use, and I have it set for 10,000K color rendition (gives a nice balanced white look to the light) at 75% power. I sometimes wish I thought through lighting options better. Im convinced modern LED lights from companies like this are way too much for almost all of us out there.
- This is a 120cm x 60cm x 50cm rimless aquarium.
- The substrate is inert Black Diamond Blasting Sand (BDBS).
- I live in an area where our water is liquid rock, so I use Reverse Osmosis water reconstituted with APT Sky.
- I use the Estimative Index (EI) for my fertilizer routine using dry salts, with macros added on water change day, and a little extra mid week. Micros (CSMB) are added every other day.
- The tank gets weekly 90% water changes and carefully vacuum up and debris from the surface of the sand. At this time I do basic plant trimming and management. Large water changes keep a lot of the excess organics low, which helps to keep this tank balanced and free of algae. It takes about an hour a week.
‐ Every few months, every single stem gets removed, the BDBS substrate is stirred lightly, along with a 90% water change and then replanted with 2 or 3 stems of each plant I want to keep.
- I use a canister filter that is connected to a CO2 reactor that I inject pressurized CO2 into through a regulator. This helps the CO2 to dissolve in the water completely and be evenly distributed around the tank.
- Lighting is provided by 2 x Chihiros LED pendant lights. They have an app that is nice to use, and I have it set for 10,000K color rendition (gives a nice balanced white look to the light) at 75% power. I sometimes wish I thought through lighting options better. Im convinced modern LED lights from companies like this are way too much for almost all of us out there.
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It is really weird when a Dutch tank has this particular problem. My friend faced this problem for some weird reason.
Here is tank info
- Water changes in Sunday, 30% with RO
Except Elatine Triandra, ALL of his plant is developing really well meanwhile ET develops serious sign of nitrate deficiency despite everything else, so i am very confused.
Here is tank info
- 40*35*35
- 1.4 W/L ( using mostly red/blue light) 8 hours lighting continously,
- CO2 "green" ( it is not possible to measure CO2 level but the indicator is lime green, m
- pH is 6.5, kH is 3.4
- Temp in avg is 27
- Nitrate level unknow (Probably low). Ammonia 0
- Water changes in Sunday, 30% with RO
Except Elatine Triandra, ALL of his plant is developing really well meanwhile ET develops serious sign of nitrate deficiency despite everything else, so i am very confused.
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I haven't done this since February. It was well received, but I forget to keep it up. We're all busy. Anyway....
Ever wanted to ask a question or just make a random comment about something but not start a whole thread for it? Do it here with me. Let's chat. I'll start.
Honestly you should feel free to start a new topic if you want, but if you're like me sometimes, you feel silly for starting one for something basic.
1. Some of us chatted before about a shrimp guard for the Eheim 350 Skimmer. Has anyone ever tried THIS one? I tried THIS one but it didn't float so great.
2. Anyone with a HOB have trouble with the shrimp getting into it? How do you get them out?
3. Do you think a UV filter is useful for algae. I know it's not going to cure it, but as part of a multi-pronged strategy in addition to trimming, topping, replanting, etc.
Ever wanted to ask a question or just make a random comment about something but not start a whole thread for it? Do it here with me. Let's chat. I'll start.
Honestly you should feel free to start a new topic if you want, but if you're like me sometimes, you feel silly for starting one for something basic.
1. Some of us chatted before about a shrimp guard for the Eheim 350 Skimmer. Has anyone ever tried THIS one? I tried THIS one but it didn't float so great.
2. Anyone with a HOB have trouble with the shrimp getting into it? How do you get them out?
3. Do you think a UV filter is useful for algae. I know it's not going to cure it, but as part of a multi-pronged strategy in addition to trimming, topping, replanting, etc.
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Is anyone selling one?
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Journal Ben's Plant Pharm 2.0
I am working on my mistakes…. The next one will be huge.
Instead of continuing the old build thread, I wanted to make a new one. This build might go just as terrible, but I want to put the old one behind me. I really wish I had given myself a month or two break because I feel like I have algae PTSD. I’m pretty burned out, and I sort of dread trying again. Oh well, too late now.
I wanted to try 2Hr Aquarist stuff, but already had the Controlsoil. I bought it a year prior (see previous journal) and decided to go ahead and use it. Hopefully I’ll make a successful transition to nutrient depleted aquasoil, and then restart with the 2Hr stuff later.
I didn't plan on starting a new journal until about a month in, but since my aquasoil is already starting to give out of ammonia, I need to get it going to get help making the transition to full NPK dosing.
With that said…..
Ben’s Plant Pharm 2.0
(BTW, in case you were wondering, I’m a pharmacist. Hence the pharm)
Setup Date
8-11-25 (Day 0)
Goals
Enjoying some farming.
Successfully navigate the different stages of aqusoil nutrient release and subsequent depletion.
Tank
ADA 60p
Light
Chihiros WRGB Pro II
Starting out at 40% of the Fish setting
Red 53, Blue 34, Green 55, White 23
PAR 105 under the light (estimated)
Substrate
UNS Extra Fine Black 1 x 10L bag
Plants
From Previous Build
Xiris Red from S21 Aquatics
Eriocaulon quinguangulare from Cherries Nature Aquarium
TC plants from Buce Plant
Cryptocoryne parva, Pogostemon helferi, Rotala Sunset
Came in in questionable shape despite paying extra for insulated box. Were very jumbled.
TC from The Fish Room
Alternanthera reineckii ‘Mini’, Rotala macrandra, Gratiola viscidula, Rotala wallichi, Lobelia Cardinalis ‘Mini’
From S21 Aquatics
Synogonthas Vichada, Centrolepis drummondiana (Blood Vomit)
From Aquatic Plants Factory
Pogostemon stellatus Dassen and Rotala Florida? (TBD)
Fertilizer
Micros: Burr Aquatic Trace (BurrFertz)
Macros: DIY- dosages to be determined
PO, K, Mg at the beginning. Been adding about 2-3ppm PO4 daily
Transition to the addition of NO3 as aquasoil depletes
Filter
Oase HOB BioStyle
CO2
Injected via GLA regulator
Bar type diffuser placed inside the HOB filter
Livestock
None
Notes
Day 0
Day 1
Week 1
Week 2
Week 3
Here you can see the older Rotala Sunset on the left. On the right is supposed to be Rotala Florida, but it is looking a lot like the Sunset did at the same stage. Argh!
Pogostemon stellatas Dassen changing from emersed to submersed form
Syn Vichada is doing pretty good. It is growing slow. The new growth is all green and the old growth is dying off. I want to cut old leaves and clean it up a little, but right now, I don't really want to disturb it. I watch it every minute. I loving having it.
Instead of continuing the old build thread, I wanted to make a new one. This build might go just as terrible, but I want to put the old one behind me. I really wish I had given myself a month or two break because I feel like I have algae PTSD. I’m pretty burned out, and I sort of dread trying again. Oh well, too late now.
I wanted to try 2Hr Aquarist stuff, but already had the Controlsoil. I bought it a year prior (see previous journal) and decided to go ahead and use it. Hopefully I’ll make a successful transition to nutrient depleted aquasoil, and then restart with the 2Hr stuff later.
I didn't plan on starting a new journal until about a month in, but since my aquasoil is already starting to give out of ammonia, I need to get it going to get help making the transition to full NPK dosing.
With that said…..
Ben’s Plant Pharm 2.0
(BTW, in case you were wondering, I’m a pharmacist. Hence the pharm)
Setup Date
8-11-25 (Day 0)
Goals
Enjoying some farming.
Successfully navigate the different stages of aqusoil nutrient release and subsequent depletion.
Tank
ADA 60p
Light
Chihiros WRGB Pro II
Starting out at 40% of the Fish setting
Red 53, Blue 34, Green 55, White 23
PAR 105 under the light (estimated)
Substrate
UNS Extra Fine Black 1 x 10L bag
Plants
From Previous Build
Xiris Red from S21 Aquatics
Eriocaulon quinguangulare from Cherries Nature Aquarium
TC plants from Buce Plant
Cryptocoryne parva, Pogostemon helferi, Rotala Sunset
Came in in questionable shape despite paying extra for insulated box. Were very jumbled.
TC from The Fish Room
Alternanthera reineckii ‘Mini’, Rotala macrandra, Gratiola viscidula, Rotala wallichi, Lobelia Cardinalis ‘Mini’
From S21 Aquatics
Synogonthas Vichada, Centrolepis drummondiana (Blood Vomit)
From Aquatic Plants Factory
Pogostemon stellatus Dassen and Rotala Florida? (TBD)
Fertilizer
Micros: Burr Aquatic Trace (BurrFertz)
Macros: DIY- dosages to be determined
PO, K, Mg at the beginning. Been adding about 2-3ppm PO4 daily
Transition to the addition of NO3 as aquasoil depletes
Filter
Oase HOB BioStyle
CO2
Injected via GLA regulator
Bar type diffuser placed inside the HOB filter
Livestock
None
Notes
- The Alternanthera reineckii ‘Mini’ was in bad shape when I opened the container. Might have been bad when I got it and then it was a week before I used it.
- 8-15-25: Added Synogonthas Vichada and Blood Vomit. Checked NO3 for the first time. It was 40. Started making twice weekly water changes.
- 8-18-25: Increased light to 45% of the full “Fish” setting. PAR should be just about 114
- 8-23-25: Pogostemon stellatus Dassen and Rotala Florida added
- 8-29-25: Discovered my NO3 was 0. Aquasoil is giving out way earlier than I expected
- Had a short diatom period, but it seems to be resolving
- I had planned to increase my light to 50% of full "Fish" setting which would be a (tested) PAR of 126, but right now, things are going so good, I don't want to mess it up. We'll hold off for now.
- 8-31-25: Starting to dose my own mixture of NPK and Mg. I really need to determine my actual water volume. What I am trying to dose, and what it tests as after I dose it are a good bit off.
Day 0
Day 1
Week 1
Week 2
Week 3
Here you can see the older Rotala Sunset on the left. On the right is supposed to be Rotala Florida, but it is looking a lot like the Sunset did at the same stage. Argh!
Pogostemon stellatas Dassen changing from emersed to submersed form
Syn Vichada is doing pretty good. It is growing slow. The new growth is all green and the old growth is dying off. I want to cut old leaves and clean it up a little, but right now, I don't really want to disturb it. I watch it every minute. I loving having it.
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