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Yugang CO2 Reactor - A Guide
- Thread starter Yugang
- Start date
Thank you for this contribution @Yugang , We all absolutely appreciate it.
Kwyet 445
After every new tank—“This is my last one!”
In Addendum B it says “it is important to set up the reactor in the tank”. It should say “below the tank” shouldn’t it?
Noahspapa
Active Member
Is bypass used to “calibrate” the flow through the reactor?
It can be used (when set up properly) to dial in the flow through the reactor, yes!
JayP 426
Valuable Member
"Regulate" might be the better term. It just helps tame the flow through the reactor so its not rushing through too fast.
Noahspapa
Active Member
I’ve been studying various threads and articles you all have put on the forum. Thank you for that!
In my next setup (36” x 20” x 20”) I intend to carbonate using a variation of the modular setup Rocco described. I just ordered the MDP-3500 pump, I have a netlea pre filter, and I could either build a DIY reactor with bypass or pull a small acrylic ARC reactor off a tank where it is currently overkill.
Do you think one approach is better than the other?
In my next setup (36” x 20” x 20”) I intend to carbonate using a variation of the modular setup Rocco described. I just ordered the MDP-3500 pump, I have a netlea pre filter, and I could either build a DIY reactor with bypass or pull a small acrylic ARC reactor off a tank where it is currently overkill.
Do you think one approach is better than the other?
Noahspapa
Active Member
I realize the pump has controllable flow rate and that could help, but with bypass I could use the pump to control the overall flow and the bypass to control the flow through the reactor.
JayP 426
Valuable Member
A couple things:
1. I'm using the MDP-3500 to run my Biomaster 850 on a 120cm tank right now that's cycling. That pump is way more than enough flow for that tank and I'll probably be running it at less than 50% once planted. I'm sure I could have gone with the MDP-2500, so for your smaller tank, you might consider that.
2. The ARC small reactor at full output capability on that same 120cm tank can provide more than a 1.5 ph drop (so even a much bigger potential drop with your tank). Since I don't want to have to bother with adjusting it, I'm leaving it set to that full potential, but running it in "regulator" mode rather than "overflow" mode. I feel comfortable doing this since I'm also using a DIY regulator with precision metering valve. If using an off-the-shelf regulator, it's important to keep close tabs on CO2 levels just as you would with an inline diffuser or other co2 diffusion method, since you don't have that overflow safety feature.
In my main journals (Experiment/Many Lessons/Inert Sand Trials, see signature) I have never used a bypass with my reactors except in Inert Sand Trials. I plan to on this next build, but it's not required by any means! If you're limited on size/space, you can see if the fully-inline reactor build works, and if the flow is really rapid through the reactor, you could always add a bypass later.
See this post for different horizontal reactor orientation options
If you do decide on a bypass, note that not all of the reactor exits have to meet again with the main water flow! You can have it split, which also allows you to have two exits for water into your tank which can be really beneficial for flow pattern.
Noahspapa
Active Member
Thank you. Yes - I saw the images you shared - I think with TRyan on this and will go through the above. Thanks again!
Noahspapa
Active Member
Thank you. Ordered the 2500, will return the 3500.
Just adding this spreadsheet that helps calculate min/max power level for a given reactor length, diameter, port size/offset. Designed for my tank with the help of Claude, but could be useful for others. Double check results, as I haven't vetted all combinations, but it specced out well for my case. It made it easy to play with different scenarios.
Let me know if anything needs fixing, but just a little payback for all the knowledge learned from the valuable members here.
Let me know if anything needs fixing, but just a little payback for all the knowledge learned from the valuable members here.
Reference for 90° stainless elbow fittings that match the ARC stainless Yugang reactor
Well that simple elbow made all the difference in cleaning up this install.
Reference for short direct fitting to replace stock long angled fitting on ARC acrylic Yugang reactor
The existing connectors are seriously long, like 5-6" of added length, and at an angle that is either good or horrible for your setup.
If you want to just convert the reactor's connectors to standard 5/8" (aka 16/22mm aquarium tubing), all you need are these:
3/4" PVC Union Fittings, with a 3/4" female NPT thread.
Much better, WAY smaller! Easier to fit in my cabinet.
If you want to just convert the reactor's connectors to standard 5/8" (aka 16/22mm aquarium tubing), all you need are these:
3/4" PVC Union Fittings, with a 3/4" female NPT thread.
Much better, WAY smaller! Easier to fit in my cabinet.
I've finally turned my attention to making (or at least trying to make lol) my first Yugang reactor.
Its for a 4ft tank.
It has an overflow and a dual outlet. It will be fitted in line with the DIY filter system which consists of a jebao MDP-6500 DC pump pulling through 2 x netlea G2 pre-filters. For a while I'll have it on my spare/farm 4ft tank which is where the filter is at the moment.
I would have preferred clear tubing for the reactor but I already had this (2" pvc) and clear tubing for this size/length was not super easy to find and would cost a pretty penny, so here we are.
Will most likely paint it black to make it look a little more uniform.
No connections are secured or glue applied etc yet but I think it will work ok.
All I haven't connected yet is the CO2 tubing. I have plenty of pneumatic quick connect fittings which I'll just connect directly near the start of the PVC like a lot of you have done.
Filter connects from the bottom, so the flow will naturally move into the 1" overflow pipe where the flow is controlled. Probably the idea without knowing yet is that ~60-70% of the flow will go through the overflow.
Does anyone see any issues with this setup?
Anyone tried the dual outflow yet?
Its for a 4ft tank.
It has an overflow and a dual outlet. It will be fitted in line with the DIY filter system which consists of a jebao MDP-6500 DC pump pulling through 2 x netlea G2 pre-filters. For a while I'll have it on my spare/farm 4ft tank which is where the filter is at the moment.
I would have preferred clear tubing for the reactor but I already had this (2" pvc) and clear tubing for this size/length was not super easy to find and would cost a pretty penny, so here we are.
Will most likely paint it black to make it look a little more uniform.
No connections are secured or glue applied etc yet but I think it will work ok.
All I haven't connected yet is the CO2 tubing. I have plenty of pneumatic quick connect fittings which I'll just connect directly near the start of the PVC like a lot of you have done.
Filter connects from the bottom, so the flow will naturally move into the 1" overflow pipe where the flow is controlled. Probably the idea without knowing yet is that ~60-70% of the flow will go through the overflow.
Does anyone see any issues with this setup?
Anyone tried the dual outflow yet?
I see nothing wrong with the design of the flow. If the CO2 injection port is well implemented and it is appropriately sized for the tank it should work fine.
In my experience with a similar orientation, with the ball valve completely open, it's about 90% of flow goes through the upper "main" section. But that's the beauty of this orientation you have -- you will be able to allow 90%, or 0%. Fully adjustable!
Just about how you're going to inject CO2 into the reactor without causing concern for leaks. But if you do that, all will be good for sure!
Also, if you're using brass parts, know that the copper content in brass can potentially dissolve and cause issues with your more sensitive inhabitants. I've never actually seen it happen myself, and many people online use brass/copper fittings without problems, but it is a mild concern to be aware of. I always try to use stainless steel, if I have to use metal, in my filter lines.
Yes! The dual outflow is so amazing. Super slow, gentle flow through my reactor enabling 100% dissolution of CO2. Also, when it purges throughout the day, the low flow means the purged bubbles aren't whisked around the aquarium; I think the dual outflow setup is the ideal horizontal reactor setup for sure.
Excellent, great to know. the idea is to enable that flexibility and to have the ability to tweak over time if needed.
I was considering using one of these pneumatic push fit connectors to connect the co2 to the pvc (only as I have a number of spares on hand), but may not the best solution. if this is not ideal, i might also consider the connectors used for air pumps which I've seen others use.
The only brass parts on the reactor itself are the barb connectors for the tubing. No brass or metal elsewhere.
Excellent. I think we will see more systems in future setup with the dual flow.
Do you just have a set of lily pipes at each end of the tank? Have you found a flow pattern (As in position/angle of the outflow) that seems to work well?
Thanks hamfist. As mentioned above, that pic above is what one of my options are for injecting co2 but I wont make forge ahead until I've confirmed which is the right option
I agree. Yes, I have the "main" inflow on the right pointed mostly across the back of the tank (flow from back right corner to back left corner), flowing across the surface. The "secondary" inflow (from the reactor) is on the back right of the tank, pointed mostly towards the front (flow from back left to front left/center).
This creates spiral flow through the tank and few dead spots. The main inflow uses a lily pipe that keeps flow very horizontal across the surface, while the secondary pipe is pointed more downwards towards the front substrate.
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