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Nutrient problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter TianChen
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It is really weird when a Dutch tank has this particular problem. My friend faced this problem for some weird reason.

Here is tank info
  • 40*35*35
  • 1.4 W/L ( using mostly red/blue light) 8 hours lighting continously,
  • CO2 "green" ( it is not possible to measure CO2 level but the indicator is lime green, m
  • pH is 6.5, kH is 3.4
  • Temp in avg is 27
  • Nitrate level unknow (Probably low). Ammonia 0
Doses EI at 1/3 rec doses daily ( the bottle recommend weekly dose of 2,)
- Water changes in Sunday, 30% with RO

Except Elatine Triandra, ALL of his plant is developing really well meanwhile ET develops serious sign of nitrate deficiency despite everything else, so i am very confused.
 

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Have they tried upping their fertiliser dosing for a month to see if that helps?
It would be my first step if everything else is growing well. Some plants are just hogs with certain nutrients, or require higher amounts in the water to get their fill. I don’t have enough experience to know if ET is one however.
 
Hollanda yapımı bir tankın bu özel sorunu yaşaması gerçekten tuhaf. Arkadaşım da garip bir nedenden dolayı bu sorunla karşılaştı.

İşte tank bilgileri.
  • 40*35*35
  • 1,4 W/L (çoğunlukla kırmızı/mavi ışık kullanarak) 8 saat kesintisiz aydınlatma,
  • CO2 "yeşil" (CO2 seviyesini ölçmek mümkün değil ancak gösterge açık yeşil renktedir, m)
  • pH 6,5, kH 3,4'tür.
  • Ortalama sıcaklık 27 derecedir.
  • Nitrat seviyesi bilinmiyor (Muhtemelen düşük). Amonyak 0
EI dozu, önerilen günlük dozun 1/3'ü kadardır (şişenin üzerinde haftalık 2 doz önerilmektedir).
- Su değişimi Pazar günleri yapılıyor, %30'u ters ozmoz (RO) suyu ile sağlanıyor.

Elatine Triandra hariç, bitkisinin tamamı çok iyi gelişirken, ET her şeye rağmen ciddi nitrat eksikliği belirtileri gösteriyor, bu yüzden çok şaşkınım.
 
Hollanda yapımı bir tankın bu özel sorunu yaşaması gerçekten tuhaf. Arkadaşım da garip bir nedenden dolayı bu sorunla karşılaştı.

İşte tank bilgileri.
  • 40*35*35
  • 1,4 W/L (çoğunlukla kırmızı/mavi ışık kullanarak) 8 saat kesintisiz aydınlatma,
  • CO2 "yeşil" (CO2 seviyesini ölçmek mümkün değil ancak gösterge açık yeşil renktedir, m)
  • pH 6,5, kH 3,4'tür.
  • Ortalama sıcaklık 27 derecedir.
  • Nitrat seviyesi bilinmiyor (Muhtemelen düşük). Amonyak 0
EI dozu, önerilen günlük dozun 1/3'ü kadardır (şişenin üzerinde haftalık 2 doz önerilmektedir).
- Su değişimi Pazar günleri yapılıyor, %30'u ters ozmoz (RO) suyu ile sağlanıyor.

Elatine Triandra hariç, bitkisinin tamamı çok iyi gelişirken, ET her şeye rağmen ciddi nitrat eksikliği belirtileri gösteriyor, bu yüzden çok şaşkınım.
 
E. triandra is a plant with high nutrient requirements; high light, rich macro-fertilizers, intensive iron supplementation, and CO2 are essential. If any of these are not provided, the plant will wither and die. Even with a rich and nutritious substrate, additional fertilizer needs to be added to the water.Iron deficiency is observed in this case.Regards.
 
how do i solve this, increasing EI dosing to 1/2 daily is very risky as it could top up to 3x more doses and drastically increase the chance of algae? What about KNO3 exclusively?
I would think the healthier plants that will result from supplying adequate nutrients will prevent any algae.
Although you may get a small amount on older leaves as they adapt to the change, I think long term, healthier plants will result in less algae.

Only other option is to take out the ET and replace it with something less nutrient hungry.
 
Yes, first find out what the nitrate level actually is. Compare after doing a water change and adding ferts (an hour or so later), midweek, and at the end of the week before doing another water change. That will give you a better idea of what is going on and you can adjust. If you keep your plants happy, you’ll be much less likely to have algae than the reverse. Or, as @JacksonL says, just replace the problem plant. If your nitrates are really at 0 though, it may be only a matter of time before you see problems with the other plants.
 
There are problems with root tabs too though. They end up in the water column anyway, but you can’t control how fast they leach. If you uproot plants near them, you’ll release a lot of nutrients at once. All in all, you have more control by dosing known quantities into the water column. If you want to try root tabs, I would only put 1 or 2 in the area, and away from anything you might uproot later.
 
Update: Alright i figured out why other plants are healthy but only ET is wilted.

It turns out my friend has concentrated substrate under the aquasoil and the roots of other plants are quickly to access that layer , all of them except elatine triandra because they are the only carpet plant. So yes, water is severely nitrate-void and in the end he had to swap out for samolus valerandii instead.
 

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