tsmith_old_guard
Community Member
My office aquarium was planted 2 weeks ago. I did a dark start fishless cycle for 6 weeks. In the span of two weeks, my GH has doubled from 9 now reading 20 and my KH doubled from 5 to 10. (LFS tested my water and also confirmed the results) Does anyone have insight on the source of the increase in water hardness? The goal is to have a fully planted neocaridina shrimp tank. This fluctuation in water hardness will be a major problem for them. That being said, all the plants are doing great, growing well, transitioning to submersed forms, no algae problems at all. Additionally, the 13 Amano shrimp I put in the tank when it was planted have been thriving and growing (successful molts).
Aquarium Specs:
UNS 90u –74 gallon/ 282 liters
Displaced Water volume –53-55 gallons
Substrate:
Bottom layer/ back 50% of aquarium has Brightwell FlorinBase Laterin Substrat F, in media bags, with root tabs underneath (aquarium co-op root tabs).
Cap layer over FlorinBase and front layer: UNS Contrasand – TAHOE (pebble gravel).
Hardscape: Dragonstone and Driftwood –Driftwood is presumed to be native hardwood, it is not Malaysian driftwood or spiderwood. Sourced from Fish Gallery in Houston. Driftwood was submerged for 60 days before planting to waterlog and leach out tannins.
Fertilization:
Root tabs were placed in gravel where the substrate was planted. It was a 50/50 blend of Aquarium Co-op root tabs and Seachem Flourish Tabs
Liquid Fertilizer: 2HR Aquarist APT3, 5ml about every other day. I dose every other day instead of the instructed daily dosing of 5ml because 75% of my plants are epiphytes or slower growing crypt parva. Stem plant behind the large hardscape placements.
CO2: Pressurized with a reactor, drop checker reaches green.
Water Source: Home RO system with in-line remineralization filter.
Water Specs day after planting (06-15-2006):
PH: 7.4 -7.6
GH: 9
KH:5
NH3: 0
NO2: 0
NO3: 15 ppm (from post cycling water and APT3 dosing)
TDS : not recorded
Water Specs 2 week later (7-2-2026)
PH: 7.4 -7.6 (note green drop checker with CO2 injection)
GH: 20
KH:10
NH3: 0
NO2: 0
NO3: 20 ppm
TDS: 350
Any thoughts or suggestions? I was wondering if maybe I went too heavy on the root tabs and that was leaching into the water column? I was gernerous on the root tabs because I am using gravel instead of aquasoil. I don’t think the APT3 would be the problem. Dragonstone is supposed to be inert, and the UNS Contrasand TAHOE is actually pebble gravel and is supposed to be inert and not affect water chemistry, same with Brightwells FlorinBase Laterin Substrat F. All substrate was thoroughly washed and rinsed of dust. I think half the FlorinBase was dust, lol. Dragon stone was also soaked and thoroughly rinsed. IF all the hardscape and substrate are inert, then the source of the Magnesium and Calcium to double the GH must be coming from the root tabs or the fertilizer, right? Any, I appreciate the braintrust that is on Scapecrunch. Thanks for the input.
I do have access to pure RODI water from my LFS. I am going to do a 40% water change tomorrow with my home RO-re-mineralized water to not shock my Amano shrimp too much and/or my Bucephalandra and Crypts.
Thanks!
Aquarium Specs:
UNS 90u –74 gallon/ 282 liters
Displaced Water volume –53-55 gallons
Substrate:
Bottom layer/ back 50% of aquarium has Brightwell FlorinBase Laterin Substrat F, in media bags, with root tabs underneath (aquarium co-op root tabs).
Cap layer over FlorinBase and front layer: UNS Contrasand – TAHOE (pebble gravel).
Hardscape: Dragonstone and Driftwood –Driftwood is presumed to be native hardwood, it is not Malaysian driftwood or spiderwood. Sourced from Fish Gallery in Houston. Driftwood was submerged for 60 days before planting to waterlog and leach out tannins.
Fertilization:
Root tabs were placed in gravel where the substrate was planted. It was a 50/50 blend of Aquarium Co-op root tabs and Seachem Flourish Tabs
Liquid Fertilizer: 2HR Aquarist APT3, 5ml about every other day. I dose every other day instead of the instructed daily dosing of 5ml because 75% of my plants are epiphytes or slower growing crypt parva. Stem plant behind the large hardscape placements.
CO2: Pressurized with a reactor, drop checker reaches green.
Water Source: Home RO system with in-line remineralization filter.
Water Specs day after planting (06-15-2006):
PH: 7.4 -7.6
GH: 9
KH:5
NH3: 0
NO2: 0
NO3: 15 ppm (from post cycling water and APT3 dosing)
TDS : not recorded
Water Specs 2 week later (7-2-2026)
PH: 7.4 -7.6 (note green drop checker with CO2 injection)
GH: 20
KH:10
NH3: 0
NO2: 0
NO3: 20 ppm
TDS: 350
Any thoughts or suggestions? I was wondering if maybe I went too heavy on the root tabs and that was leaching into the water column? I was gernerous on the root tabs because I am using gravel instead of aquasoil. I don’t think the APT3 would be the problem. Dragonstone is supposed to be inert, and the UNS Contrasand TAHOE is actually pebble gravel and is supposed to be inert and not affect water chemistry, same with Brightwells FlorinBase Laterin Substrat F. All substrate was thoroughly washed and rinsed of dust. I think half the FlorinBase was dust, lol. Dragon stone was also soaked and thoroughly rinsed. IF all the hardscape and substrate are inert, then the source of the Magnesium and Calcium to double the GH must be coming from the root tabs or the fertilizer, right? Any, I appreciate the braintrust that is on Scapecrunch. Thanks for the input.
I do have access to pure RODI water from my LFS. I am going to do a 40% water change tomorrow with my home RO-re-mineralized water to not shock my Amano shrimp too much and/or my Bucephalandra and Crypts.
Thanks!

