Journal Frank's Dutch Attempt

[FrankZ]

How are you putting CO2 in?

1/4” high pressure poly tubing. Inline check valve into a pneumatic tubing connector just before the reactor.

So it’s regulator bubble counter/check, Dwyer flow meter, inline check valve, reactor.

My CO2 tank is low, main pressure is still high but it’s light so I’m just about out of liquid co2 in the tank.

By the way, the reactor is working great. Achieving a 1.2 pH in about 40 minutes give or take

 

[Unexpected]

1/4” high pressure poly tubing. Inline check valve into a pneumatic tubing connector just before the reactor.

So it’s regulator bubble counter/check, Dwyer flow meter, inline check valve, reactor.

My CO2 tank is low, main pressure is still high but it’s light so I’m just about out of liquid co2 in the tank.

By the way, the reactor is working great. Achieving a 1.2 pH in about 40 minutes give or take

Okay, I can’t remember who was using a JBL inline diffuser, but it had a built in check valve causing problems. It may be the check valve. Alen Le advised me 15 working PSI for reqctors and so I use that amount. Here’s the check valve I’m using Yagote CO2 Glass Aquarium Supply Accessories, CO2 Diffuser CO2 Drop Checker CO2 Bubble Counter Check Valve for Aquarium Planted Tank (Check Valve) Amazon.com

If you have another type laying around, I’d try it and see if the problem resolves.

 

[FrankZ]

Okay, I can’t remember who was using a JBL inline diffuser, but it had a built in check valve causing problems. It may be the check valve. Alen Le advised me 15 working PSI for reqctors and so I use that amount. Here’s the check valve I’m using Yagote CO2 Glass Aquarium Supply Accessories, CO2 Diffuser CO2 Drop Checker CO2 Bubble Counter Check Valve for Aquarium Planted Tank (Check Valve) Amazon.com

If you have another type laying around, I’d try it and see if the problem resolves.

Sadly I don’t. I need to get one. The inline check I’m using is just and air line backflow preventer type. No spring just duck lip reed on the inside. I probably don’t need the second one I just didn’t want water back flowing all the way back to the regulator until I get a proper one.

Replacing it is going to be a bear. I didn’t think to put a valve between the co2 and reactor so I have to drain the whole thing out. Also all the tubing connection on barbs I heated and used a size slightly to big barb so I could get a perfectly tight seal when it cooled down.

I need to get me one of these Alan Le regulators I keep reading so much about. Sounds like the bees knees.

 

[Unexpected]

I learned a lesson on my first Yugang build, I should share this more often, but put it together without glueing any thing and run it in the tub. It might leak, but it can expose some potential problems before being installed. It’s a bit more work but it can be worth it.

I suspect the multiple check valves might be the issue. I would start by removing the bubble couter/check and see if that’s causing something weird.

 

[FrankZ]

Bubble counter check is now cleaned and assembled. But it Didnt fix the flow. I’m going to replace the reed style check when I can get a proper one. So far the CO2 amount I need to get the target pH drop is significantly lower. I’ve been able to rescue the co2 rate down to 25 from 35/37. I’m very happy with the performance aside from erratic flow.

 

[Unexpected]

Bubble counter check is now cleaned and assembled. But it Didnt fix the flow. I’m going to replace the reed style check when I can get a proper one. So far the CO2 amount I need to get the target pH drop is significantly lower. I’ve been able to rescue the co2 rate down to 25 from 35/37. I’m very happy with the performance aside from erratic flow.

Awesome, hopefully it’s the other check and a simple fix.

 

[GreggZ]

Does your flow meter have a metering valve?

If so try using the flow meter to control CO2 not the needle valve. I keep my needle valve turned up slightly higher than the flow meter requires then use the flow meter itself to adjust the flow.

 

[FrankZ]

Does your flow meter have a metering valve?

If so try using the flow meter to control CO2 not the needle valve. I keep my needle valve turned up slightly higher than the flow meter requires then use the flow meter itself to adjust the flow.

Nah it’s the base model Dwyer. Threaded connections in and out. Kind of kicking myself for not getting the one with the built in needle valve. At the time I thought a needle valve was a needle valve, oh how wrong was that view point.

 

[FrankZ]

Well I just changed the Reed style check valve to a spring loaded pneumatic one. No change in the bouncing flow. Now I’m back to the regulator and needle valve. I guess now is as good a time as any to invest into a good quality regulator.

 

[Unexpected]

Well I just changed the Reed style check valve to a spring loaded pneumatic one. No change in the bouncing flow. Now I’m back to the regulator and needle valve. I guess now is as good a time as any to invest into a good quality regulator.

Shucks, it’s never an easy fix with this hobby.

 

[FrankZ]

Shucks, it’s never an easy fix with this hobby.

No never. I wonder if it’s the set working pressure causing the float ball in my flow meter to bounce around. It is fixed at 40 psi best I can tell from the gauge on it. It might need some back pressure to keep the pressure drop from being so severe. No clue really at this point.

My pH is super stable now so I’m just going to roll with it until I dig up some cash and figure out where to get an Allen Le regulator.

 

[FrankZ]

Broke out my UV sterilizer to see if it can speed up the death of the GDA. The pump works but the style is such that I can’t see the bulb to tell if it still works.

 

[Mr.Shenanagins]

View attachment 4015Broke out my UV sterilizer to see if it can speed up the death of the GDA. The pump works but the style is such that I can’t see the bulb to tell if it still works.

Is that the green machine? I had one way back when lol

 

[FrankZ]

Is that the green machine? I had one way back when lol

Yep green machine. Haven’t used it in years. Was just reading the manual online. It says if the LED is on then everything is working as it should. Fingers crossed. I want to see in my tank

 

[Burr740]

Nah it’s the base model Dwyer. Threaded connections in and out. Kind of kicking myself for not getting the one with the built in needle valve. At the time I thought a needle valve was a needle valve, oh how wrong was that view point.

When I used that same Dwyer I just kept the needle valve on the reg wide open. If you have them adjusted close that might be the problem

 

[FrankZ]

When I used that same Dwyer I just kept the needle valve on the reg wide open. If you have them adjusted close that might be the problem

The Dywer does not have a flow control valve on it. I only have the needle valve on the regulator.

Weird thing this morning. Found the flow meter and co2 line full of water down almost to the bubble counter. The new check valve got stuck open somehow. So I cleared out the water and reinstalled everything. No flow at all now. GRRR. Thankfully I bought two new check valves because I follow the saying “if you have one you have none”. I replaced the check valve and flow was restored at a steady flow too. The bouncing flow meter ball has gone away, it’s just the slight normal wiggle now. No idea what was going on there with erratic flow but I think it’s fixed.

 

[HardeeParty]

Weird thing this morning. Found the flow meter and co2 line full of water down almost to the bubble counter. The new check valve got stuck open somehow. So I cleared out the water and reinstalled everything. No flow at all now. GRRR. Thankfully I bought two new check valves because I follow the saying “if you have one you have none”. I replaced the check valve and flow was restored at a steady flow too. The bouncing flow meter ball has gone away, it’s just the slight normal wiggle now. No idea what was going on there with erratic flow but I think it’s fixed.

What type of check valve did you replace the metal one with?

I’m going through this right now getting co2 lined up for the new tank. The Tunze regulators needle valve has a smaller outlet thread and the common G1/8 or M10x1 bubble counters designed to screw directly to the post body won’t fit. I just purchased an in-line version of the same type, but between the inline diffuser, the inline solenoid, and now this bubble counter I feel like I’m setting myself up for leaks.



I also noticed erratic flow rates (no meter, bubble count as proxy) for the last month or so and have been attributing it to co2 tank pressure fluctuation from temperature swings. We’ve had some “cold” fronts (laughs in Floridian) roll through the last few weeks so the ambient house temperature has not been as steady as usual. My sodastream canister has been low and finally ran out last night so I swapped the tank and reset the working pressure and needle valve, so I’m wondering if it will stay more consistent when full.

Do you have a spare full tank to directly swap when you run out or do you need to remove and drop off to refill?

 

[FrankZ]

What type of check valve did you replace the metal one with?

I’m going through this right now getting co2 lined up for the new tank. The Tunze regulators needle valve has a smaller outlet thread and the common G1/8 or M10x1 bubble counters designed to screw directly to the post body won’t fit. I just purchased an in-line version of the same type, but between the inline diffuser, the inline solenoid, and now this bubble counter I feel like I’m setting myself up for leaks.

View attachment 4016

I also noticed erratic flow rates (no meter, bubble count as proxy) for the last month or so and have been attributing it to co2 tank pressure fluctuation from temperature swings. We’ve had some “cold” fronts (laughs in Floridian) roll through the last few weeks so the ambient house temperature has not been as steady as usual. My sodastream canister has been low and finally ran out last night so I swapped the tank and reset the working pressure and needle valve, so I’m wondering if it will stay more consistent when full.

Do you have a spare full tank to directly swap when you run out or do you need to remove and drop off to refill?

I initially replaced the reed style (duck bill) air line check with the metal pneumatic spring check. It was a two pack off Amazon same style I’ve used in other higher pressure air applications (albeit a knock of brand).

The second replacement was a like for like swap. Push to connect tubing connections for the thick walled high pressure poly tubing I use for chemical injections.

The flow has been perfectly steady since this morning when I did the change. Well I wasn’t home most of the injection period but it’s still at 25 ml/min where i left and the ball isn’t jumping all over so i think its fixed.

I do have a full 5 pounder i use in between 20 pound swaps. No place around here refills so I have to swap the empty for a full. Some times it’s takes a few days so I keep the 5 pounder for the in between period. It won’t be long and I will be hooking it so I’ll see what the flow does then.

 

[FrankZ]

What type of check valve did you replace the metal one with?

I’m going through this right now getting co2 lined up for the new tank. The Tunze regulators needle valve has a smaller outlet thread and the common G1/8 or M10x1 bubble counters designed to screw directly to the post body won’t fit. I just purchased an in-line version of the same type, but between the inline diffuser, the inline solenoid, and now this bubble counter I feel like I’m setting myself up for leaks.

View attachment 4016

I also noticed erratic flow rates (no meter, bubble count as proxy) for the last month or so and have been attributing it to co2 tank pressure fluctuation from temperature swings. We’ve had some “cold” fronts (laughs in Floridian) roll through the last few weeks so the ambient house temperature has not been as steady as usual. My sodastream canister has been low and finally ran out last night so I swapped the tank and reset the working pressure and needle valve, so I’m wondering if it will stay more consistent when full.

Do you have a spare full tank to directly swap when you run out or do you need to remove and drop off to refill?

The red plastic check valve below is the reed/duck bill style I was using. Just in case there was any confusion with my terrible description. The metal pneumatic check is the other photo, shiny and silver LOL

 

[HardeeParty]

The red plastic check valve below is the reed/duck bill style I was using. Just in case there was any confusion with my terrible description. The metal pneumatic check is the other photo, shiny and silver LOL

I legitimately appreciate the idiot-proofing