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Journal Fishstery's Garden/Nature style hybrid

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I meant to get this journal started sooner, but there wasn't much to report on while doing a dark start, and then I had a small mishap with some of my plants getting partially frozen while getting driven around timbucktoo in a FedEx truck. Now that I got my plant replacements in and some of my fish in the tank, I figured now is a great time to start since I have some nice photos.

20260207_211243.webp

Here's the sparks notes as to what I got going on so far:

Equipment:
Landen 100p (52 gal with a shallow footprint, roughly 47 gallons factoring in water displacement)
Two Week Aqua T90 Pros
UNS Controsoil Supplemented with APT 1 Dosed Daily
Oase Biomaster Thermo 600
5 LB co2 tank with inline diffuser

Flora:
Eleocharis acicularis 'Mini'
Staurogyne Repens
Alternanthera Reineckii 'Mini'
Ranunculus Inundatus (to be added to midground pending delivery)
Rotala Ramosior 'Florida'
Bacopa Salzmannii 'Purple'
Rotala 'Blood Red' SG
Bacopa Colorata
Limnophila 'Belem'
Persicaria 'Sao Paulo'
Nymphoides Taiwan
Cabomba Furcata

Fauna:
20x Cenepa Red Pencilfish
2x Wild Type Honey Gourami
A Few pink Ramshorn snails I plucked from my low techs
To be added once tank stabilizes:
20-30 Hastatus Corydora (I have a group of 20 in their own 20g long breeding project, my wallet broke with the Pencils and Hastatus aren't cheap either) 25 Blood Orange Neocaridina

What's happened so far:
The tank was filled and dark started on 1/17 using some Fritz Turbostart and seeded ceramic from one of my established tanks. I got impatient and planted on 1/30, after the ammonia dropped. The tank cycled on 2/4, so 18 days from fill.

Last night I moved the Pencilfish and Gourami out of QT since I don't work on the weekends and am able to monitor them with the co2. I had my co2 dialed in quite well, at 45ppm. Today was day 1 with the fish in and about halfway through the photo period my plants started lightly pearling for the first time, but unfortunately I could tell the fish were not feeling well. I backed off the co2 a bit, but one Pencilfish in particular started acting drunk. They were $30 a piece so any loss would be a huge disappointment, so I cut the co2 early and slammed some extra oxygen into the tank and all was well. The Gourami were totally unfazed as expected. I turned the flow up on my WaveMaker, turned the co2 down some more, so tomorrow will be ground 0 again with dialing in the co2. Other than that, things are going very well with the plants. It's only been 8 days but the hairgrass is spreading very quickly, the cabomba and bacopa colorata are throwing some very nice colors at the tops despite being low to the substrate, since I've been aggressively propagating everything to fill in what I can. The slower ones to transition and grow are the Ramisior (expected), Limnophila, and Persicaria.

I'm currently running the T90 Pros at 50% on the "Red" preset, which averages about 120 PAR at the substrate. I took about a hundred data points with my rented PAR meter of all of my preferred color settings, including increments of intensity so that I have the data on hand should I need to adjust later. These lights are very impressive. The spread is in line with what I'd expect with a pendant style, but I favor the Kessil-like shimmer effect which is why I chose Pendants. On my 17.71" high tank, they could easily put out 300+ PAR at the substrate and 500+ at the surface.

What's next?
I'm waiting on my Ranunculus Inundatus to arrive and will be planting that scattered throughout the tank like the AR mini to give a nice transition from the hairgrass carpet to the stem plants, I also have two pieces of cut glass coming to make a two piece lid to help prevent evaporation and preserve my boyfriends deer mount. I'm going to start doing larger water changes on the cory QT tank with water a few degrees colder than the tank to stimulate breeding, I'm hoping they will breed themselves into a larger colony, as my main vision for the tank is a massive school of these little cuties. It's my first time keeping them but I find their appearance far more attractive than regular Pygmy Cories, and their mid-level tight schooling behavior will be quite the spectacle if I'm successful. I feel the tank is stable enough to add my shrimp, so I'll be getting those shipped in at the end of the week. I'm hoping once I gain some more plant mass to output more oxygen, I can turn the co2 back up past 35ppm. I can't get any more surface agitation and flow than I already have, without turning the tank into a Kitchenaid mixer. The Pencilfish have been very forgiving with my harder, more alkaline tap water when in the QT tank, so I was hoping they'd be more tolerant of high co2, but apparently not. Long term plans are to add some Jazz caps in a few weeks to feed the stems, but I anticipate sticking with APT 1 since my tap contains both nitrate and phosphate, and I'll have a moderate bioload. I also have had a 5 stage BRS RODI system for a few years that I never bothered to hook up, so I'll be making plans to get the tank switched over to RO water once my soils buffering capacity is about kicked.

Anyways, that's it for now. I'll update back tomorrow with how day 2 went with the Cenepas' tolerance for co2. I've been practicing my cellphone photography skills so enjoy my photo dump below, the Cenepa are absolutely spectacular to watch, and between my toddler, Kaiseri Newts, and these guys, I'm going to have to invest in some external storage for my camera roll. Also, honorable mention for those who replied to my "Center or not" thread regarding my driftwood. It's placed slightly off to the right and it should look very nice once I'm done propagating and can let my stems get some real height. The fish love all of the holes, tunnels, and caves that this piece of wood has.
 
Wow those par numbers are interesting. If you have time, do you think you could show pictures of the different color options these lights provide? I’m back and forth on what I wana do light wise for my new tank, and as I’m more “island” focused, pendants would be preferable. I’m just not thrilled on what I see color rendition wise compared to “bar” style lights.

Thanks in advance if you can!
 
Wow those par numbers are interesting. If you have time, do you think you could show pictures of the different color options these lights provide? I’m back and forth on what I wana do light wise for my new tank, and as I’m more “island” focused, pendants would be preferable. I’m just not thrilled on what I see color rendition wise compared to “bar” style lights.

Thanks in advance if you can!
Yeah I can do that later today! I would have to agree with the majority I've seen online of these, that Week Aqua lights lean red. I have a 1st Gen Chihiros Vivid and found their diodes make the greens pop more. In person it's not that bad, but I've found that the lights make the tank not photograph well during the day, and in order to not have my tank pictures look pink I need to play with the settings in "Pro" mode on my phones camera at night.
 
In person it's not that bad, but I've found that the lights make the tank not photograph well during the day, and in order to not have my tank pictures look pink I need to play with the settings in "Pro" mode on my phones camera at night.
You are referring to the T90’s here or the Chihiros? And thanks much appreciated!
 
Yeah I can do that later today! I would have to agree with the majority I've seen online of these, that Week Aqua lights lean red. I have a 1st Gen Chihiros Vivid and found their diodes make the greens pop more. In person it's not that bad, but I've found that the lights make the tank not photograph well during the day, and in order to not have my tank pictures look pink I need to play with the settings in "Pro" mode on my phones camera at night.
I've found the same to be true for the Week Aqua L series. I have to set the green channel much higher on these than on my Chihiros lights, or the photos look quite pink/violet.
 
I've found the same to be true for the Week Aqua L series. I have to set the green channel much higher on these than on my Chihiros lights, or the photos look quite pink/violet.
That’s my other option. My biggest frustration with Week Aqua is their website is very bland with info, and the internet is still very bare with information and pictures of the different models. I’m still unsure of which models are best for a high energy tank. It seems the L/P/and M are the best options for high energy but what truly sets them apart is my question. Some say L over P and vice versa.
 
That’s my other option. My biggest frustration with Week Aqua is their website is very bland with info, and the internet is still very bare with information and pictures of the different models. I’m still unsure of which models are best for a high energy tank. It seems the L/P/and M are the best options for high energy but what truly sets them apart is my question. Some say L over P and vice versa.
Honestly I don't think it matters as much between models as it does choosing the proper size and number of diodes for your tank dimensions. I do know a big difference between some models are their ability to connect to app via Bluetooth, thats something to pay attention to because not all of them have that feature.

Other than that, all of the ones that have the app feature have the same presets. Unless you have a very deep tank, they are all overpowered for what most people need, unless you are Dennis level expert and can manage 300+ PAR at the substrate. If your tank is very deep, you can always get one of their rectangular models and hang them on wire and L bracket. If my tank was any wider and I didn't have that huge piece of wood breaking up the tank, I would have went this route. Using a hanger can help gain more PAR if you are maxed out on Intensity and still not where you need to be, since you can lower the lights down closer.

I honestly can't see any of these lights underperforming. I have mine hung as high up as they can be and at 80% on the red Preset, it was averaging ~220 umols at the substrate. If I bumped that to 100% and lowered them down, I'd imagine I'd be getting readings in the 500-800 umol area.
 
2x Wild Type Honey Gourami

Where did you find these?!

Those Cenepa Reds should breed beautifully for you if you decide to go RO, and once you have some stem plant thickets for the eggs to hide out in 👍

Persicaria 'Sao Paulo'

Love love this plant 💯💯

Keep us updated! 😁
 
Today's Update:
I had the co2 set to turn on 3 hours before lights on, but the drop checker had the slightest blue hue to it, so I bumped it up to 3.5 hours before lights on. I also moved my lily pipe up so that it breaches the water surface, which makes it pull air in and pushes some air bubbles out with the co2. The noise is slightly annoying (when the room isn't filled with toddler screeches), but the drop checker is a bit darker than the lime green I had yesterday, and the Cenepas are more active, compared to yesterday, some of the males have been sparring so I will take that as a sign they are feeling energetic.

My biggest issue now is one of my Honey Gouramis. I went with wild types because I lucked out with a beautiful wild type that was in a group I bought from my LFS years ago, and he was such a cheeky little bastard. He would spit water at me when I took the lid off and I found him to have more personality than the domestic morph. I got what I asked for again because this little a-hole keeps ripping up clumps of my hairgrass. All day he yanks and pulls at them and I have to keep sticking my arms in the tank to replant them. It's funny, but annoying since I'm trying to grow a carpet and he wants to do his own interior decorating.
 
Where did you find these?!

Those Cenepa Reds should breed beautifully for you if you decide to go RO, and once you have some stem plant thickets for the eggs to hide out in 👍



Love love this plant 💯💯

Keep us updated! 😁
I have a LFS that is owned by the coolest Viet dude and if I ask, he can find it. I waited a long time for him to source these, but man did he deliver. They came in very large and clearly well fed and cared for. I didn't ask for a lot of info, but apparently the person be sourced these from had them in very hard, alkaline water and they still laid eggs. I don't think they are as specific to blackwater as what information is available states, however whether or not that will shorten their lifespan would probably need to be experimented with. They have been surprisingly hardy and adaptable for me and I had zero losses or issues with them other than the co2 sensitivity.
 
I don't think they are as specific to blackwater as what information is available states

Yes I've been very impressed with how flexible pencilfish can be. They just bred like bunnies without any input from me when I had them in Seattle water, softest water you will find outside of RO 👍
 
Did you say you’re getting shimmer with these? I bought these hoping for shimmer, but I don’t have that at all. Would I have to take the lids off of the aquarium to get it?
With any pendant light you need surface agitation to get a shimmer, the more turbulent the flow is, the more it will shimmer. Some pendants give off more than others, the Kessil being a prime example due to how narrow and condensed the spread of light is. Mine have a nice, soft shimmer despite having higher surface agitation. I suspect it's due to the spread of the pendants and how high I have them mounted.
 
With any pendant light you need surface agitation to get a shimmer, the more turbulent the flow is, the more it will shimmer. Some pendants give off more than others, the Kessil being a prime example due to how narrow and condensed the spread of light is. Mine have a nice, soft shimmer despite having higher surface agitation. I suspect it's due to the spread of the pendants and how high I have them mounted.
I think this is why the Skylight Hyperspots have such good shimmer, multiple narrow focused beams of light. Of course, I only know from what I've read, @Naturescapes_Rocco is the only one that knows for sure. 😁
 

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