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DDio
Last reply · posted in Journals

Journal  DDio's 120U

Greetings everyone!

Rather than going into my background in this thread, I'll take you through my build history from acquiring the tank, building the stand, all the way through today, with all of the ups, downs, and sideways issues. I posted an introduction of who I am in the introduce yourself area.

Initially when I moved last year, I decided I wasn't going to set up the reef tank that I had going for almost a decade. It was actually the only tank that remained out of 3 reef tanks I had going at one time. I experimented with a planted nano (30C) and it went well so I decided to tackle the one type of aquarium I've always wanted - a big planted tank.

I began searching and knew what I wanted....a 5 foot long tank, 24" wide and 18-24" high. Initially I wanted a 125 gallon until seeing one in person at the local Petsmart. The extra foot would have still fit in the spot I had picked out, but the lack of width was something I couldn't get over. It would present a big challenge as far as aquascaping, so I crossed that off my list. I started looking at SC Aquariums and they had a tank that met exactly what I was looking for in a 5 foot tank. The only issue is that it had an overflow. The reason this was an issue for me is that one day I'd wind up with too much time on my hands and turn it into another reef tank. I really didn't want that to be a potential issue down the road so I continued searching.

I stopped by my LFS and began telling him what I was looking for and he checked his distributer's inventory online and said that they had one UNS 120U in stock and that it would probably sell pretty quickly. I handed him my CC and that moment is how I've ended up here lol.

The tank arrived and thankfully someone mentioned buying glass moving suction cups for actually moving the tank because without them, it wouldn't have been possible to get the tank into my basement.

I was going to post pics of the stand build and other stuff but it seems that the forum won't allow images larger than 3mb so rather than resizing a bunch, I'll just stick to resizing full tank shots and include dates.

I did the typical overbuilding the stand thing since that was pretty much what everyone did in the reef world. The top was butcher block from HD that was sized perfectly for the tank.

My initial plan was to acquire everything slowly over time so that I wasn't dropping too much cash at once, and for the most part I followed this, but probably purchased everything I needed about twice as fast as I imagined.

Now would probably be a great time to list my equipment:

Tank: UNS 120U
Stand: DIY
Lighting: Twinstar 1200 SP on UNS light brackets
Filtration: Green Leaf Aquariums 15L stainless steel canister and an Oase 850 BM Thermo with two sets of lily pipes, one with a surface skimmer attached to the Oase in order to leverage the pre filter. Both filters are packed with 3/8" pumice
Heating: Oase heater included with 850, connected to an Inkbird controller
CO2: GLA Dual Stage Regulator with two 10lbs CO2 tanks (one running and one on standby) driven through a NilocG Griggs reactor 24". The reactor is fed from the outflow of the GLA canister filter. The solenoid is controlled by a Milwaukee controller.
Substrate: Pool filter sand
Hardscape: about 80 or so pounds of dragonstone and two very large spider wood pieces.
Ferts: DIY using NilocG ferts: KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4, and CSM+B
Water changes: roughly 80% weekly using tap. Will be switching to 50/50 tap and RODI soon.

When Memorial Day weekend hit, I decided to set the tank up since the stand was finished. Well, that wasn't the exact plan, but after getting a hand from a cousin moving the stand in place, shimming it, and then setting the tank onto the stand, I started getting the uncontrollable urge to set it up.

Here was about a week's worth of playing around with the scape until I was happy with it:

5-30-22 - FTS First Day.webp

This pic is from May 30th and I literally filled it with water and managed to get all the equipment hooked up.

My plan at this point was to cycle the tank without fish or plants in it.

After the first day, the tank became cloudy. Then each day following that first cloudy water day, the tank became more and more cloudy. It was actually a little concerning.

I continued dosing ammonia to feed the Fritz Zyme Turbo Start that was recommended to me by my LFS.

A few weeks in and the tank still wasn't cycling as quickly as it should have been so it was at that point that I was convinced to go ahead and order plants and get the tank planted.

The tank finally cycled so I added two dozen Harlequin Rasbora and ten Otocinclus. A couple weeks later I added another 10 Otocinclus. A few weeks after that I added 4 reticulated siamese algae eaters. I didn't add any other creatures to the tank until about 2-3 weeks ago when I added 3 mystery snails and 3 zebra nerites.

The tank was running as expected for a new setup, going through the ugly stage, the GSA stage, and everything in-between. The only thing I didn't have was BBA which was somewhat surprising.

When the GSA problem popped up, I upped my dosing of PO4. It took a couple weeks but eventually the GSA stopped. You can still see it on some of my bucephelandra and other slower growers, but it's not spreading any longer.

After that the tank was just sort of cruising along. I was dosing, doing my weekly WC's and was pleased with the tank.

Roughly around the beginning of September I came down with Covid so I couldn't do my weekly water change. What I noticed was that during that second week, all the plants started looking angry. Rotala were showing signs of stunting. The Pogostemon Helferi Downoi that was growing extremely healthily began looking terrible where the leaves were basically turning into thin needles. The only plants that didn't seem to care were the Bucephalandra.

I did my water change, almost 90% and nothing seemed to help. The helferi weren't recovering.

So I went down a few different rabbit holes trying to figure out what the issue was.

I also had an issue with very long filamentous algae growing almost exclusively in my moss. I still have this problem and will be removing the moss completely from the tank.

But before taking you down the rabbit holes, let me post a pic of the tank upon first planting:

7/6/22

7-3-22-FTS-6.webp

Now the last FTS prior to getting Covid and the issues beginning to appear.

9/7/22:

FTS 9-7-2022 - 1 - small.webp

You can see how great the helferi looked at this point.

And here is what it looked like after it went downhill.

10/24/22

FTS-1 - small.webp

Here is the most recent FTS from last night:

12-9-22 - FTS - small.webp
66 Replies · 12890 views
riioKen
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
Hi guys,
I'm planning to do a switch, but I would like to know if it makes sense before buying anything.

My actual tank is a 110x50x60h, this is my first bigger tank and it's the tank where I started to truly love this hobby.
This tanks gave me joy, anxiety and satisfaction.

I bought it for relatively cheap (around 130€), but know I was thinking to buy a standard 120p.

I plan to reuse my old tropica aquasoil (I'll remove the First 1-2cm and topping It with apt feast).

What do you think? It's a waste of time/money or you'll think that is a change that make sense?

I always felt strange about this tanks proportion.

I plan to do it with 3 buckets (fish, plants and soil). The water is fully ro.

Any suggestions for doing it? Is worth it? Or it's just late and I'm overthinking?
3 Replies · 77 views
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BenB
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Specific Plant Discussions
I mention this plant on occasion, but no one ever comments. So I thought I'd make a post for others and me for future reference.
It is my favorite Erio. It is a darker green, doesn't get too big, and for me it has never sent up any seed stalks.

I find it easy to grow. I have high light but nothing crazy at 124PAR and high CO2, 50+ppm. It gets about max 3-4" and makes side daughter plants when large. I'm not sure my dosing scheme is. Sort of an EI daily dosing kind of thing.

What gets me is every autumn, it starts to melt. I'm not sure how it knows it's autumn with consistent light and a heater, but it must get a little cooler in the tank or something. The plant starts to turn brown and sends up (I'm not sure of the correct term) vegetative stalks with little plantlets on the ends. I've found you can plant these stalks into the substrate with the plantlet on top, and it will grow into a new plant. They've been easy to grow. This is the third year this has happened to me.
Pic of plantlets below. I'll try to get a better one sometime. All I had time for tonight was a crappy phone pic.

This year I divided one of the mother plants in hopes that it wouldn't fully melt and would regrow. That is still in progress.

Anyone else's experiences are welcome.

DSC09694a.webp

This plant is the same plant as the one on the right above.
20261006_182513a.webp
13 Replies · 683 views
artandsoul
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
Sounds like a joke question but for reasons unknown I cant get moss to grow period, Got a huge baseball of moss for free from shrimp breeder. I put some in 5g shrimp tank, low light no heater around 74 its dead. 3 other tanks 76 degree low to medium light its all dead or looks dead its grey color I'd say it's dead. water parms are pretty spot on no big shifts or other plants would have issues imo.

what do I need to do to grow java moss 😂? grew it for years no issues would take over now im lost! I can grow anything but moss?
7 Replies · 570 views
HardeeParty
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Lounge
I’m often out and about working in the field and stumble upon breathtaking examples of often overlooked and under appreciated slices of nature that Florida has to offer.

My neck of the woods is filled with marsh/wetlands ripe with both native and invasive wildlife of all flavors; I want to start a thread where I can document and share.

I’ll update this thread whenever I capture something noteworthy. Much of what catches my eye is aquatic flora, but I try and document anything captivating. I hope you find this as beautiful and fascinating as I do.

IMG_1895.webp

IMG_1916.webp

IMG_1941.webp

IMG_1896.webp

IMG_1942.webp
141 Replies · 11652 views
JayP
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
I hadn't seen it mentioned by others that attended Aquashella, but if you hadn't already heard about it or seen it in Aquashella videos, ADA has come out with Amazonia Pro. It's not a replacement for Version 2, but an addition. It is essentially Version 2 on steroids with higher nutrients and of course the negative side effect of potentially higher initial ammonia leaching and, if your not prepared and skilled, more chance of algae. That's even from the mouth of Homma-san himself. The scaping competitors were using it in the competition and AFA was selling 9l bags at the show. They said it would be available on the website within the next couple weeks.
46 Replies · 2125 views
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CincyScaper
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
With all the talk on Amazonia pro, I wanted to get some basic understanding of rich aquasoil.

- everyone seems to agree that the richer the aquasoil is, the more the amount of water changes you would have to do initially. Basically meaning that aquasoil leaches its contents into the water and you replace the water. Now….. doesn’t that just mean that you are throwing away what you paid for ? Even if one does a dark start, and minimize the number of water changes one still has to do a water change after the dark start and still end up wasting the nitrate/phosphate?

—— trying to ask then does that mean the only person who benefits from a super rich aquasoil is someone like an insta or YouTube person who wants a quick burst of growth with the initial leaching of nutrition. For everyone else wanting a stable long term system, a not so rich aquasoil which might help the plants a little bit in the beginning but being used more for long term stability and buffering capacity?

- do the plants actually get the boost initially from the root zone or is it more from the leaching that happens and ultimately from the WC? The later makes sense since their roots have not yet developed.

- if one has the whole substrate inside a container with water, wouldn’t water touch all aspects of the substrate regardless of it being capped or not ? How does capping a aquasoil actually help? Green aqua stated that ada recommends capping the Amazonia pro with Amazonia 2.

Curious on people’s thoughts on this.
18 Replies · 310 views
renesis
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
Hey guys, needing some expert insight on my 90P build regarding the Yugang reactor. I’d like a sanity check on sizing.

System
  • Display: 90 × 45 cm outside, 10 mm glass, so ~88 × 43 cm inside (~3,780 cm²), rimless, lidless.
  • Sump: 20-gallon long (76 × 30 cm, ~2,280 cm²), 3 chambers, loose lid.
  • About 220 L total water.
  • Return enters below the surface; no deliberate surface agitation.
  • BeanAnimal overflow, with the main draining underwater (no cascade).
  • Currently cycling on tap water: KH 13, GH 12. The plan is RO remineralised to KH 3–4.
Reactor
  • Horizontal Yugang, 3" Sch40 PVC (ID 77.9 mm), 46 cm long.
  • Outlet rotated to near the limit of what my plumbing allows, so the pocket is much smaller than half-full.
  • CO₂ flow meter at about 9 mL/min. That’s slightly over what it dissolves, so it gives small occasional burps.

What I measured
  • Plateau: pH 6.80 at KH 13 ~ 60 ppm (pH/KH estimate). Degassed baseline pH at 8.2.
  • Overnight decay after CO₂ off: k ≈ 0.12/h (half-life ~5.7 h). That implies a CO₂ exchange rate of ~4–7 cm/h, i.e. a calm surface.
  • Working the 1/17.7 rule backwards from my reactor area (~180–358 cm² depending on rotation), my effective loss area is ~1,100–2,200 cm², against ~6,060 cm² of real water surface (display + sump).
Am I just way off on my surface agitation? I have mild ripples, but nothing overly agitating, but even without taking the sump into account, I should be seeing way more loss right? I'm planning on keeping neocaridina, so aiming for a 30-40ppm max, but even on my min setting I see ~55-60 ppm.

y1.webp

View attachment y2.mp4
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Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
· posted in Meet & Greet Forum
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @Bruce Lau!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
0 Replies · 25 views
Naturescapes_Rocco
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar Article Contributor
Last reply · posted in Specific Plant Discussions
1778510318386.webp

I've really been digging pearlweed in my low tech tank, and thinking of growing a shaped pearlweed bush in my high tech experiment tank.

But I came across this listing for a white/platinum variety of pearlweed. Can't find any info on it anywhere. So I ordered 5 stems, the most expensive pearlweed stems on earth!

Think it'll actually survive/be platinum or light colored?

We really need some lighter colored plants in this hobby. Myrio 'Golden' is one I've successfully used, but it grows too crazy and the trimmings drove me nuts so I ditched it. What other white/platinum plants are there?
15 Replies · 939 views
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Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
Last reply · posted in Forum News/Feedback
This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!
2055 Replies · 77481 views
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