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Journal Dutch Garden UNS 45
Hello everyone 
I started small aquarium, here are the details
Aquarium : UNS 45U 9 45/28/28
Concept: Pure Dutch ( no hardscape )
Equipement / Technical Specs
Soil: 2HR Aquariust APT Feast+APT Start
Filtration: Eheim Classic 250 ( Main ) / Ehem Skim350 ( Surface )
Light: Chihiros WRRGB 2 30cm
Water: RO ( pure )
Co2: Co2Art Dual stage regulator
Plants
Front: Pogostemon helferi, Rotala Indica, Staurogyne repens
Midground: Ludwigia repens x arcuata, Rotala Macranda mini type 4, Alternanthera Reineckii mini
Background: Rotala rotundifolia Green, Rotala Wallichi, Rotala Orange Juice
This project was started on 01/01/2026 and the main idea was small Dutch tank just to be able to play around with something until I wait the hardscape for mine bigger tank to be delivered...
Even i know that Dutch in small space like this will get tricky I decided to give it a go.
The soil is 4cm at the front with 9cm at the back.
Eheim Classic 250 filled with Eheim Mech ( 1L ) , blue coarse sponge, Seachem matrix , extra blue sponge and Eheim fine pads at the top ( in that order ).
This time I was smart enough to use double taps in order not to cry when I clean the canister.
On day one i did mistake, I used the APT Start even tho on the instruction manual it says DO NOT PLANT IN THE NEXT 2 WEEKS...yeah who read instructional manuals...never mind wasted but ok. I guess I learned
Co2 starts at 14:00 and turns off at 21:00, light starts at 16:00 and turns off at 22:00.
Co2 is set up for 2.5-2.7 bubbles per sec if that is some info
Chihiros WRGB 2 is set up on reds 80%, green 35% and blue on 55%
Light period is 6 hours at the moment.
Water is pure RO at the moment just to wash out the extra of everything.
On the last measurements KH was 0 and GH was 4
This is something I need to do in the next few days cos I'm not 100% did i measured it right.
In the first week I do water change 50% everyday, second week once on two days, third week , once on three days, forth week and on i plan to change 50% once per week.
The current TDS before water change is 140-50 and after water change is 70-80
Once this gets lower I will do remineralization with Salty Shrimp kh/gh+ or I might do just gh+ with Masterline.
Water temperature is 24C
I don't plan to add any livestock at the given moment, most likely I'll wait 2-3 months.
I started small aquarium, here are the details
Aquarium : UNS 45U 9 45/28/28
Concept: Pure Dutch ( no hardscape )
Equipement / Technical Specs
Soil: 2HR Aquariust APT Feast+APT Start
Filtration: Eheim Classic 250 ( Main ) / Ehem Skim350 ( Surface )
Light: Chihiros WRRGB 2 30cm
Water: RO ( pure )
Co2: Co2Art Dual stage regulator
Plants
Front: Pogostemon helferi, Rotala Indica, Staurogyne repens
Midground: Ludwigia repens x arcuata, Rotala Macranda mini type 4, Alternanthera Reineckii mini
Background: Rotala rotundifolia Green, Rotala Wallichi, Rotala Orange Juice
This project was started on 01/01/2026 and the main idea was small Dutch tank just to be able to play around with something until I wait the hardscape for mine bigger tank to be delivered...
Even i know that Dutch in small space like this will get tricky I decided to give it a go.
The soil is 4cm at the front with 9cm at the back.
Eheim Classic 250 filled with Eheim Mech ( 1L ) , blue coarse sponge, Seachem matrix , extra blue sponge and Eheim fine pads at the top ( in that order ).
This time I was smart enough to use double taps in order not to cry when I clean the canister.
On day one i did mistake, I used the APT Start even tho on the instruction manual it says DO NOT PLANT IN THE NEXT 2 WEEKS...yeah who read instructional manuals...never mind wasted but ok. I guess I learned
Co2 starts at 14:00 and turns off at 21:00, light starts at 16:00 and turns off at 22:00.
Co2 is set up for 2.5-2.7 bubbles per sec if that is some info
Chihiros WRGB 2 is set up on reds 80%, green 35% and blue on 55%
Light period is 6 hours at the moment.
Water is pure RO at the moment just to wash out the extra of everything.
On the last measurements KH was 0 and GH was 4
This is something I need to do in the next few days cos I'm not 100% did i measured it right.
In the first week I do water change 50% everyday, second week once on two days, third week , once on three days, forth week and on i plan to change 50% once per week.
The current TDS before water change is 140-50 and after water change is 70-80
Once this gets lower I will do remineralization with Salty Shrimp kh/gh+ or I might do just gh+ with Masterline.
Water temperature is 24C
I don't plan to add any livestock at the given moment, most likely I'll wait 2-3 months.
18 Replies
·
1992 views
Staff member
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
4 Replies
·
77 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
There are several threads discussing the new Aquael Hypermax 4500BT. I'm sure many would like some reports on it's performance over time. We have a thread discussing nano canister filters. We're all waiting for one of @Naturescapes_Rocco in depth write-ups discussing his filtration set-up. @Pepere and @*Ci* have unique set-ups as well, @Kwyet has used a matten filter, and we have several other members running sumps. That doesn't even include all those running sponge and HOB filters.
The idea is that we can consolidate a lot of filter information in one place making it easier to find rather than searching through so many threads. Maybe this won't work but I thought it was worth giving it a try. Perhaps it may be better listed as an article at some point.
I'm going to get things started by discussing factors I feel are most important to me when choosing a filter.
1) Filtration Performance: This goes without saying. The filter’s primary job is to keep our water clean and free of anything that harms the inhabitants. Of course, there are multiple factors that play into this. Some say flow is most critical, while others claim media volume is most important. Are there other factors? I still have limited experience, but my view, having done considerable reading, is that flow tends to be a bit overblown. You’ll see recommendations of anywhere from 4 to 10 times turnover rate with most leaning toward the higher end of that. I don’t think turnover rate is really the detail to be concerned about, at least with heavily planted tanks like are the norm here. I think the focus should be simply on ensuring flow achieves the goal of effectively moving water through the system to remove toxins/waste, delivering nutrients, and aiding gas (oxygen/CO2) transfer. If a turnover rate of 3 or 4 does that without dead spots in the tank, you should be good. After all, most of us here are plant focused and therefore, the fish we generally have are smaller community species that typically don’t care for high flow (there are, of course, exceptions).
I think there’s a simpler answer regarding media volume; more is better. Obviously, there must be a balance between internal volume and overall size of the filter. Real estate in and around our aquarium stands is precious. Filters like the Fluval FX6 and the newest Aquael Hypermax are huge. If you’re going for one of those, you’re likely putting it on a large tank with plenty of space underneath but again, it’s a matter of finding the right balance that provides the performance you need in a manageable size.
2) Reliability/Durability: This is where solid reviews come in handy and why getting feedback from users here is invaluable. Filtration performance becomes moot if the filter isn’t running, or worse yet, just flooded your house. Being able to easily source spare parts is also valuable, which is why sticking to the top well-known brands is often a safe route. It’s also why many aquarists place canister filters in protective containers, something else to consider when taking into account, size of filter. (this is something I should really do as I’ve had to clean up a few significant spills after filter maintenance and not getting the top secured in place properly
)
3) Tie – Maintenance/Noise Level: These two factors are equally important to me. If the filter is a pain to maintain, I’m going to put it off, and that’s bad. It affects the performance. But equally important to me is how noisy it is. I tend to be sensitive to annoying little sounds regardless of where I am; at home, in the car, at work, you name it. If the aquarium is in a part of the house I spend a lot of time in, well then, it’s even more important.
I don’t know if Oase was first to do it, but the idea of the prefilter was, I think, a game changer for many. I imagine it was derived from people installing foam filters on the intake pipes. Having an easily removable section with foam filters that catch a lot of large particles before entering the primary filter chamber is a great idea, resulting in expanded intervals between main filter head removals for cleaning.
Another aspect of maintenance is ease of priming. This could also be an aspect of performance but I don’t think it is quite as important. I’m not sure there is a canister filter that is truly or consistently easy to prime. Some may start out that way, but over time, become less and less so. This is an area I’d really like to see product designers put more serious thought. My experience so far is with Oase and the Fluval 07 series. Hated the Fuval priming and I’m just so-so with the Oase. Let me know your experience with priming other brands.
As for noise, I don’t mind the slight hum of an impeller as long as it’s steady and consistent, much the same way some people, including myself when I was younger, like the smooth steady sound of a fan at night to help them sleep. It’s when the sound becomes inconsistent, I’m bothered. I also don’t care for the sound of splashing/trickling water while I’m focused on other things. Only when I’m camping near the banks of a creek or other body of water is this OK
. This is one of the main reasons I’m not a fan of HOB filters. I’m also tweaking my CO2 reactor designs to minimize the bubble sounds of CO2 entering the reactor.
4) Cost: Let’s be clear, the cost doesn’t stop when you pay the retail price for the filter. There’s the cost of media and spare parts plus the cost of electricity. What’s the rated wattage of the filter. I see the Aquael filters claim to consume lower power and are therefore cheaper to run. What about special filter cartridges or foam. Is it easy to cut foam filters from inexpensive bulk material? How often are gasket replacements necessary, or are there common issues with parts failing over time. Of two Fluval 07 filters I’ve used, both needed replacement impeller shafts. Oase Biomaster filters seem to have an issue with the input/output head often needing replaced.
I admit cost isn’t a critical factor for me, but I know it is for many others, so this is another instance where finding the right balance is key, in this case, the balance between price and performance.
Share your thoughts. Do these factors seem to align with yours or do you think I’m way off base. Tell us what types and brands of filters you prefer and why.
The idea is that we can consolidate a lot of filter information in one place making it easier to find rather than searching through so many threads. Maybe this won't work but I thought it was worth giving it a try. Perhaps it may be better listed as an article at some point.
I'm going to get things started by discussing factors I feel are most important to me when choosing a filter.
1) Filtration Performance: This goes without saying. The filter’s primary job is to keep our water clean and free of anything that harms the inhabitants. Of course, there are multiple factors that play into this. Some say flow is most critical, while others claim media volume is most important. Are there other factors? I still have limited experience, but my view, having done considerable reading, is that flow tends to be a bit overblown. You’ll see recommendations of anywhere from 4 to 10 times turnover rate with most leaning toward the higher end of that. I don’t think turnover rate is really the detail to be concerned about, at least with heavily planted tanks like are the norm here. I think the focus should be simply on ensuring flow achieves the goal of effectively moving water through the system to remove toxins/waste, delivering nutrients, and aiding gas (oxygen/CO2) transfer. If a turnover rate of 3 or 4 does that without dead spots in the tank, you should be good. After all, most of us here are plant focused and therefore, the fish we generally have are smaller community species that typically don’t care for high flow (there are, of course, exceptions).
I think there’s a simpler answer regarding media volume; more is better. Obviously, there must be a balance between internal volume and overall size of the filter. Real estate in and around our aquarium stands is precious. Filters like the Fluval FX6 and the newest Aquael Hypermax are huge. If you’re going for one of those, you’re likely putting it on a large tank with plenty of space underneath but again, it’s a matter of finding the right balance that provides the performance you need in a manageable size.
2) Reliability/Durability: This is where solid reviews come in handy and why getting feedback from users here is invaluable. Filtration performance becomes moot if the filter isn’t running, or worse yet, just flooded your house. Being able to easily source spare parts is also valuable, which is why sticking to the top well-known brands is often a safe route. It’s also why many aquarists place canister filters in protective containers, something else to consider when taking into account, size of filter. (this is something I should really do as I’ve had to clean up a few significant spills after filter maintenance and not getting the top secured in place properly
)3) Tie – Maintenance/Noise Level: These two factors are equally important to me. If the filter is a pain to maintain, I’m going to put it off, and that’s bad. It affects the performance. But equally important to me is how noisy it is. I tend to be sensitive to annoying little sounds regardless of where I am; at home, in the car, at work, you name it. If the aquarium is in a part of the house I spend a lot of time in, well then, it’s even more important.
I don’t know if Oase was first to do it, but the idea of the prefilter was, I think, a game changer for many. I imagine it was derived from people installing foam filters on the intake pipes. Having an easily removable section with foam filters that catch a lot of large particles before entering the primary filter chamber is a great idea, resulting in expanded intervals between main filter head removals for cleaning.
Another aspect of maintenance is ease of priming. This could also be an aspect of performance but I don’t think it is quite as important. I’m not sure there is a canister filter that is truly or consistently easy to prime. Some may start out that way, but over time, become less and less so. This is an area I’d really like to see product designers put more serious thought. My experience so far is with Oase and the Fluval 07 series. Hated the Fuval priming and I’m just so-so with the Oase. Let me know your experience with priming other brands.
As for noise, I don’t mind the slight hum of an impeller as long as it’s steady and consistent, much the same way some people, including myself when I was younger, like the smooth steady sound of a fan at night to help them sleep. It’s when the sound becomes inconsistent, I’m bothered. I also don’t care for the sound of splashing/trickling water while I’m focused on other things. Only when I’m camping near the banks of a creek or other body of water is this OK
. This is one of the main reasons I’m not a fan of HOB filters. I’m also tweaking my CO2 reactor designs to minimize the bubble sounds of CO2 entering the reactor.4) Cost: Let’s be clear, the cost doesn’t stop when you pay the retail price for the filter. There’s the cost of media and spare parts plus the cost of electricity. What’s the rated wattage of the filter. I see the Aquael filters claim to consume lower power and are therefore cheaper to run. What about special filter cartridges or foam. Is it easy to cut foam filters from inexpensive bulk material? How often are gasket replacements necessary, or are there common issues with parts failing over time. Of two Fluval 07 filters I’ve used, both needed replacement impeller shafts. Oase Biomaster filters seem to have an issue with the input/output head often needing replaced.
I admit cost isn’t a critical factor for me, but I know it is for many others, so this is another instance where finding the right balance is key, in this case, the balance between price and performance.
Share your thoughts. Do these factors seem to align with yours or do you think I’m way off base. Tell us what types and brands of filters you prefer and why.
154 Replies
·
14895 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
I'm always interested in trying new stuff to see if I like it better than the stuff I already have.
The latest item for test is a Hygger skimmer. I first saw these on Amazon about a month ago . I've really wanted a skimmer that works well but is smaller than the Oase Crystal Skim 350s I have now. The Hyyger is very similar in size but the cost and magnetic mount design intrigued me. It sat for awhile, but I finally began running it on my 90X50 aquarium several weeks ago. So far, I'm giving it a thumbs up. I haven't had shrimp getting stuck in it yet, but I imagine it could benefit from a different guard at some point. It has a few bad reviews on Amazon but I wonder if those individuals have experience with powered skimmers. I also have a stainless steel Fzone skimmer that I'll be trying soon and I'll report back on that.
Hygger Aquarium Surface Skimmer
Fzone Aquarium Surface Skimmer
The latest item for test is a Hygger skimmer. I first saw these on Amazon about a month ago . I've really wanted a skimmer that works well but is smaller than the Oase Crystal Skim 350s I have now. The Hyyger is very similar in size but the cost and magnetic mount design intrigued me. It sat for awhile, but I finally began running it on my 90X50 aquarium several weeks ago. So far, I'm giving it a thumbs up. I haven't had shrimp getting stuck in it yet, but I imagine it could benefit from a different guard at some point. It has a few bad reviews on Amazon but I wonder if those individuals have experience with powered skimmers. I also have a stainless steel Fzone skimmer that I'll be trying soon and I'll report back on that.
Hygger Aquarium Surface Skimmer
Fzone Aquarium Surface Skimmer
0 Replies
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33 views
Journal ADA 60p
Boring title, but oh well . I’ve been thinking about a second tank for a bit and wanted something smaller than my 120p. The thought being I’ll rescape more often due to the smaller size and hopefully become a better scaper and get to enjoy a new scape more often. So I went with an ADA 60p. It’s on a Garden Stand and will be filtered by a SuperJet ES600. I’m still mulling over the light and leaning toward a Hyperspot. Way more light than I need and way more than I would prefer to spend, but I like the shimmer, shadows and such that come from point source lights.
I’m planning on an “old school” nature style layout, at least as well as I can put one together. I’ve been playing around with a layout while waiting on a delivery of Hakkai stone from ARC that should arrive tomorrow. Here’s a pic of what I’ve zip tied together so far.
. I’ve been thinking about a second tank for a bit and wanted something smaller than my 120p. The thought being I’ll rescape more often due to the smaller size and hopefully become a better scaper and get to enjoy a new scape more often. So I went with an ADA 60p. It’s on a Garden Stand and will be filtered by a SuperJet ES600. I’m still mulling over the light and leaning toward a Hyperspot. Way more light than I need and way more than I would prefer to spend, but I like the shimmer, shadows and such that come from point source lights. I’m planning on an “old school” nature style layout, at least as well as I can put one together. I’ve been playing around with a layout while waiting on a delivery of Hakkai stone from ARC that should arrive tomorrow. Here’s a pic of what I’ve zip tied together so far.
1 Replies
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55 views
Got on the tree build kick in past 2 weeks to make somthing I like for 36g freebie build to replace the huge tree turd #2 in there. I got 6 stumps ready today to get built for smaller tanks, 3 done today 3 waiting. Built the larger 17 tall 16 wide tree pics added other day to journal but gonna a build 2-3 more larger trees and the 6 smaller. Sell the ones off on eBay and etsy I don't want.
The larger stump 2nd post pic s 16" tall 15 wide plan to use in future scapes smaller. I've been using Amazon branch packs 15.00 for 25-35 pieces and amazon spiderwood 6-8" 5 for 12.00 for small trees. The large tree I made was a 10.99 piece I tore apart and used the 3 larger branches and built onto them to get the large tree in added pics cost me in end around 22.00 .... I have 10 pieces coming in mail Friday 5 large and 5 medium all spiderwood to make larger trees with this weekend.
Bought a ton of Amazon wood on Amazon lol 2 for 17.00 10-14" so I glued some of them together for larger usable pieces. some came out cool and well worth the 17.00 for the pieces glued together.The 1 has natural plant pots on top. The v shape last 2 pics 12" deep and 16" wide
After literally glueing a finger to a rock today Imao I quit! I ended up used all the accelerator I had anyway so Friday or sat before I can finish my smaller trees. will update as it goes, It will be a forest of trees when its done.
The larger stump 2nd post pic s 16" tall 15 wide plan to use in future scapes smaller. I've been using Amazon branch packs 15.00 for 25-35 pieces and amazon spiderwood 6-8" 5 for 12.00 for small trees. The large tree I made was a 10.99 piece I tore apart and used the 3 larger branches and built onto them to get the large tree in added pics cost me in end around 22.00 .... I have 10 pieces coming in mail Friday 5 large and 5 medium all spiderwood to make larger trees with this weekend.
Bought a ton of Amazon wood on Amazon lol 2 for 17.00 10-14" so I glued some of them together for larger usable pieces. some came out cool and well worth the 17.00 for the pieces glued together.The 1 has natural plant pots on top. The v shape last 2 pics 12" deep and 16" wide
After literally glueing a finger to a rock today Imao I quit! I ended up used all the accelerator I had anyway so Friday or sat before I can finish my smaller trees. will update as it goes, It will be a forest of trees when its done.
21 Replies
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1251 views
Rockstar
Inspired by @gnatster 's Black Friday thread HERE. I'm curious what's on everyone's list this year. I need to come up with a list for the significant other aquarium or not. Not sure of much I want. I do want a small rectangle little tank to do a succulent garden and light like HERE, but I'm not sure which one to get. What are you asking for?
24 Replies
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684 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
Journal Attempting a True Dutch
This tank was a Dutch-ish tank before we moved 2 months ago. This was one of its last pictures, very overgrown I know.
This time I want to make it a true Dutch, so anyone can chime in and help me.
After we moved, it ran low-tech with just a few tissue cultures until this week when I finally had time and materials to finish setting it up. This is what it looks like now:
I know there’s some bubbles showing in the vinyl cling. I’m having trouble reaching back there to smooth it out. I’ll have to think about how to fix that, although when the plants grow in it may not be visible anyway. I did read that you can have 1 rock in a Dutch scape, so I kept one. I may put Monte Carlo on it again, I haven’t decided.
So, details…
Tank: UNS 90U, 68 gallons
Light: Week Aqua P900 Pro, current settings R 40%, G 51%, B 20%, UV 0, Fan 100, Power 51%.
8 hours of light with 30 min ramp up/down
Par—no idea
Filtration: Fluval Fx4, currently running at 75%. Any higher blows the fish around. I expect to be able to increase it when the plants are grown in.
CO2: Yugang stainless steel reactor, 370 mm long, working really well. I had to turn down the CO2 a bit today because the drop was more than I expected (from degassed 7.4 to 5.9). I’ve already changed the end cap to the medium setting, but I think I’m just going to make further adjustments with the regulator. Call it laziness, but since there aren’t any double taps available for the Fx4 tubing that’s going to be easier for me. Anyway, I really like it. It’s completely silent and does its job well.
Substrate: Aqua Natural Galaxy sand, with a few Aquarium Coop root tabs.
Other: Oase CrystalSkim 350 skimmer, Kactoily 6-in-1 water quality monitor
Fertilizer: Until today I’ve just been using Easy Green. Today I installed the Chihiro’s dosing system with PPS-Pro, 6 ml macros and 3 ml micros daily. On water change day, I’ll add another 2 ml macros. I’m currently changing 20% of the water once a week. I’ll increase if necessary.
Parameters: Ammonia and Nitrite 0, Nitrate 10 ppm, gH 6, kH 2, TDS 222, 70-74 F
Plants (mostly from @Burr740 thanks!):
Leopard Val
Echinodorus Aflame
Hydrocotyle Tripartita (coming)
Penthorum Sedioides
Crypt Wendtii Sindoor
Lobelia cardinalis mini
Bacopa colorata
Rotala (? back left corner)
Limnophila wilsonii
Nymphae Peru Puerto Maldonade
Rotala macrandra Kochi
Nymphoides Taiwan
I’m not sure I like the Leopard Val in there. Should I put it in my 125 gallon instead, and move the Limnophila wilsonii to that spot?
Fish:
1 Honey Flame Gourami
4 Ember tetras
8 Otos
2 Pygmy sunfish
4 Red neon blue-eyed rainbowfish
9 Pygmy Cory catfish
9 male Lime Green Endlers
1 Leopard Danio (last of a group)
A few random Amano and Neocaridina shrimp and snails
The fish list will change as I get more tanks set up. I would like to end up with just the gourami, Otos, Rainbowfish (but more of them), and Pygmy Cories.
Well, that’s a start. Thanks for reading!
This time I want to make it a true Dutch, so anyone can chime in and help me.
After we moved, it ran low-tech with just a few tissue cultures until this week when I finally had time and materials to finish setting it up. This is what it looks like now:
I know there’s some bubbles showing in the vinyl cling. I’m having trouble reaching back there to smooth it out. I’ll have to think about how to fix that, although when the plants grow in it may not be visible anyway. I did read that you can have 1 rock in a Dutch scape, so I kept one. I may put Monte Carlo on it again, I haven’t decided.
So, details…
Tank: UNS 90U, 68 gallons
Light: Week Aqua P900 Pro, current settings R 40%, G 51%, B 20%, UV 0, Fan 100, Power 51%.
8 hours of light with 30 min ramp up/down
Par—no idea
Filtration: Fluval Fx4, currently running at 75%. Any higher blows the fish around. I expect to be able to increase it when the plants are grown in.
CO2: Yugang stainless steel reactor, 370 mm long, working really well. I had to turn down the CO2 a bit today because the drop was more than I expected (from degassed 7.4 to 5.9). I’ve already changed the end cap to the medium setting, but I think I’m just going to make further adjustments with the regulator. Call it laziness, but since there aren’t any double taps available for the Fx4 tubing that’s going to be easier for me. Anyway, I really like it. It’s completely silent and does its job well.
Substrate: Aqua Natural Galaxy sand, with a few Aquarium Coop root tabs.
Other: Oase CrystalSkim 350 skimmer, Kactoily 6-in-1 water quality monitor
Fertilizer: Until today I’ve just been using Easy Green. Today I installed the Chihiro’s dosing system with PPS-Pro, 6 ml macros and 3 ml micros daily. On water change day, I’ll add another 2 ml macros. I’m currently changing 20% of the water once a week. I’ll increase if necessary.
Parameters: Ammonia and Nitrite 0, Nitrate 10 ppm, gH 6, kH 2, TDS 222, 70-74 F
Plants (mostly from @Burr740 thanks!):
Leopard Val
Echinodorus Aflame
Hydrocotyle Tripartita (coming)
Penthorum Sedioides
Crypt Wendtii Sindoor
Lobelia cardinalis mini
Bacopa colorata
Rotala (? back left corner)
Limnophila wilsonii
Nymphae Peru Puerto Maldonade
Rotala macrandra Kochi
Nymphoides Taiwan
I’m not sure I like the Leopard Val in there. Should I put it in my 125 gallon instead, and move the Limnophila wilsonii to that spot?
Fish:
1 Honey Flame Gourami
4 Ember tetras
8 Otos
2 Pygmy sunfish
4 Red neon blue-eyed rainbowfish
9 Pygmy Cory catfish
9 male Lime Green Endlers
1 Leopard Danio (last of a group)
A few random Amano and Neocaridina shrimp and snails
The fish list will change as I get more tanks set up. I would like to end up with just the gourami, Otos, Rainbowfish (but more of them), and Pygmy Cories.
Well, that’s a start. Thanks for reading!
310 Replies
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35086 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Have my eye on a UNS 45SA, a shallow all-in-one, to house Mexican Orange Crayfish. I've been flipping between pictures of rocks, trying to imagine what would work well. My idea is a cascading wall of dark rock, with caves and epiphytes stuffed between the cracks. Leading to a foreground strewn with pebbles of the same rock over a base of a lighter colored sand, along with leaf litter and pods. The orange coloration of the crayfish ought to pop against the darker rock.
I've been trying to picture the layout with one of these:
Blue Rhino Stone
Manten Stone
North Black Stone
If I had my druthers, the stone is available from Buce Plant, where I'm sitting on a sizable credit.
Comments, suggestions, etc, all welcome.
I've been trying to picture the layout with one of these:
Blue Rhino Stone
Manten Stone
North Black Stone
If I had my druthers, the stone is available from Buce Plant, where I'm sitting on a sizable credit.
Comments, suggestions, etc, all welcome.
11 Replies
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909 views
I Donated 2026
up until now I’ve been fastening my reactors to the aquarium stand using the screw holes provided but I believe I’ve noticed mention of folks using a hanger for support rather than screwing the reactor directly. Does anyone have a recommendation for a hanger?
10 Replies
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167 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Since these are starting, here's a thread.
Starbond, the makers of Cyanocrylate Adhesives, has a few items on sale. Black Friday Starts Early 2026 | Starbond. I'm a fan of their Clog Prevention Stoppers. There are some sanding discs on sale for the woodworkers in the crowd too.
Starbond, the makers of Cyanocrylate Adhesives, has a few items on sale. Black Friday Starts Early 2026 | Starbond. I'm a fan of their Clog Prevention Stoppers. There are some sanding discs on sale for the woodworkers in the crowd too.
16 Replies
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1091 views