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RickyV
Last reply · posted in Shrimp and Other Invertebrates
Recently I've gotten into a side hobby of culturing blackworms. I think blackworms have a lot of potential for a great and easy live food to culture but there isn't a lot of good information online on how to best take care of them. So I have been doing little experiments to try to learn more about their care.

I have found the blackworms do care a lot about water quality, sure they can tolerate slightly worse water than most fish but they won't thrive in it. In fact I've had a lot of die off when the water got too dirty. I keep high water quality in my cultures by connecting them to my other tanks. This can be done in many ways but what I do is use any plastic tub, a uniseal and PVC for an overflow. I connect it to my tanks flow using these fitting used for irrigation tubing, of course you could also use airlifts, or a small seperate pump.Screenshot_20241223_195706_Amazon Shopping.webp



Here is an example of one of the tubs on top of a 20G long tank
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Here are my other culture containers.
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As you can see I also glue some mesh around the overflow to reduce blackworms leaving the culture. I've found blackworms can still make their way through this mesh but it keeps down how many leave the culture. Even without the mesh the blackworms leaving the culture hasn't been too significant. But worms leaving the culture may be ideal for some as this could be automatic feeding.

I currently use a sand substrate as it is what I had on hand. I added some filter sponges to some of the cultures and the worms all go in the sponges completely ignoring the sand. In the cultures without the sponges and just sand only a few worms burrow, they mostly stay in clumps on top of the sand. Still learning about how useful it may be to use the sponges. For the most part they are only a hindrance, but the worms do really like them so I wonder if that may help the production of the culture. One thing they are nice for is keeping the worms concentrated where you want them, this can make feeding easier.

Since water quality isn't a huge concern in these I have been trying to push the limits on how much I can feed them. Here is about what I have been feeding this culture every day. Unfortunately I don't have a good idea on the mass of the worms in this culture, but on this day they were fed 10g of kens veggie flakes.
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24 hours later.
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As you can see they completely devoured all of those flakes. That amount of food would have crashed most culture setups I have seen which is why I think it is very important to overfilter with blackworms. Many guides I have seen suggest feeding small amounts two or three times a week. But they can clearly eat very significant amounts of food. However it may not be nessecary to feed that much depending on how much worm mass you are trying to yield. This is what I hope to find out.

Here you can see the green flake food inside the worms.
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So far flakes have been their favorite food, which makes sense as they are very thin and easy to break down. I originally fed algae wafers which they also like but they are not able to go through them as fast as flakes and I want to maximize how much they can eat. I think ideally you would feed small amounts of flake throughout the day rather than the single big feed I am doing, but I haven't figured out an easy way to automate this. The problem is that it is best to place the food right around all the worm clumps which would be hard to to with an auto feeder, and flakes float. For now this is good enough though.

I have tried cutting up the worms with scissors before but I belive I found too much mortality for it to be worthwhile. There is also likely a lag period where the worms are healing and cannot eat as much which means less worm mass produced that day. So I am moving away from manual fragmentation for now and just seeing how much they will grow on their own.
Here is day one after manual fragmentation.
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Day 3 I am starting to see more die off.
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Day 7 I see significant die off. I think here I may have lost at least 50% of the worms.
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Day 10 they seem to have stabilized. And decided to end this experiment after seeing this much die off. Perhaps the conditions were just not optimal for good healing, maybe too dirty, overcrowded, fed too early etc. I am not sure. I may try again in the future. I am open to suggestions.
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My newest experiment just finding out exactly how much the blackworms can eat and how fast they can grow. I started with 15.15 g of worms. I will weigh them again in a week.
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Unfortunately this experiment isn't perfect because the worms can leave through the overflow but I a hoping their reproduction is fast enough this won't be a significant factor. I started off with 500 mg of the kens veggie flakes. I forgot to take a picture of how much this looks like. But here is 24 hrs after feeding. As you can see only green waste is left.
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Today I am trying 1g of veggie flakes I will soon update on their response to this much food.20241223_155654.webp
5 Replies · 1464 views
mrmoss
Last reply · posted in Journals
Ive reorganized the order of my tanks so I can better keep track of them ie. Tank 2 moss tank is now tank 3. This helps in any confusion I had when tracking tanks they are in a sort of order now. Rather than taking time editing my old journal id rather create a new thread. Pics will be current (for the most part) as they are posted. I am not aquascaping. I am just farming.
62 Replies · 3550 views
R
Last reply · posted in Journals
Hi guys!

I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.

The starting point:

I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.

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I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.

Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.

I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
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I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.

These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
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That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
64 Replies · 3905 views
S
Last reply · posted in Fertilizing and Aquarium Chemistry
So I've somehow used up my gallon of metricide for excel, now I think you need a business license to purchase it on amazon.

I want to go back and try hydrogen peroxide again since its so easy and cheap to buy.

What ratios are you guys using to get rid of algae on plants such as BBA that are still somewhat safe for more delicate mosses?
Or should the mosses just be avoided for this?

1/2 peroxide + 1/2 water into a spray bottle for treating outside the tank?
8 Replies · 97 views
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Simba3000
Last reply · posted in Equipment Discussions
This is my first time using a reactor. I have a Landen 100p (40x18x18 inches) and just received my Aqua Rocks Colorado Stainless Yugang Reactor. I had a spare Eheim 4+ 350 so it's now hooked to that with just foam filtration. My other filter is an Oase Biomaster Thermo 600 with an 850 head. I'm a little confused on the initial setup. I have my Co2 turning on at 9:30am, lights on 12-8pm. I have the offsets at 50% of the reactor, and the surface area is 4 inches larger than the calculations said I needed.

I know that contact time is the factor so my Eheim is about 50% flow. Do I initially increase the Co2 rate to purge the air out of the reactor, then dial it back so i'm seeing off-gassing every minute once I'm reaching my ppm? I'm using a Co2 Art Elite Pro regulator. My psi sits between 35-40 on a 20lb tank. Co2 is easy for me to get and cheap so I'm not concerned with excess. There's not a lot of information I can find on these so anything helps. Thanks for reading!
7 Replies · 491 views
Phish Tank
Supporting
Last reply · posted in Journals

Journal  Low and Slow

Finally a journal.

I’ll soon be setting up two new tanks, a UNS 90p and a 50c. (Not so!) Patiently awaiting tanks and stands delivery.

They will both be middle energy tanks. I have lengthy periods of busy time and travel that mean the tanks need to survive without human intervention here and there. So plenty of automation is needed, and slow and steady wins over high energy. Or in BBQ smoking terms: low and slow.

Plans:
  • Injected CO2, but less than 30ppm
  • Inert gravel
  • Tidal HOB filter and partial UGF plate.
  • Less than EI ferts, but more than PPS pro.
  • Tap water (my tap is 50 TDS and only 10ppm Ca) remineralized to 30ppm Ca and 3-4 dKH.
  • Lower light levels: Week aqua L on 90p and Chihiros wrgb 2 slim on 50c.
  • Easy slow growing plants, and a few fish. Thinking the 50c will be a shrimp tank.
  • Some hardscape but nothing crazy

My last tank has had a rough year. Hurricane Helene meant two weeks with no electricity, and much longer without decent water changes.

Then last summer the tank developed a slow leak while I was out of town (ugh!). Had to fly home for a week to triage. Fish and plants have been in temporary tanks. Plants are struggling. Photo is when they had already been in temporary bin for over 6 weeks, I was surprised it didn’t look like an algae infested swamp.

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Sooo ready for my new tanks! These are my first really nice tanks, I’ve only owned petco specials before.

For the new tanks I'm planning on over ordering plants since my surviving plants are clearly pretty weak at this point.
65 Replies · 5193 views
Capraquaria
Supporting I Donated 2026 AquaGirls
Last reply · posted in Lounge
It will be tough to get away, but I have managed to finagle enough coverage for the weekend, so I did it! I have my ticket! I figure why not? It’s actually not that far from me. Daichi Araki from ADA is teaching an aquascaping masterclass on Saturday morning. Also interested in the ADA Shizuku workshop.



Juris Jutjajevs previously announced he will be attending the Jersey show.

I have never been to an Aquashella, so don’t entirely know what to expect, but I presume it is much like any large convention exhibit hall experience. Any ‘Crunchers thinking of attending the Jersey show?
39 Replies · 1096 views
Unexpected
Supporting Tank of the Month I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
I'm doing it again! I will be trying AR mini and another type of AR and I always stunt them. I was doing some light reading as I already know AR hates the soup I serve.

So, is there any truth in K dosing exceeding total Ca causes boron lock out in AR types?
4 Replies · 124 views
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