Welcome to ScapeCrunch
We are ScapeCrunch, the place where planted aquarium hobbyists come to build relationships and support each other. When you're tired of doom scrolling, you've found your home here.
Social Feed
Recently I have finally decided to build and test my first horizontal Yugang CO2 reactor (see this thread by Mr. Yugang for those not yet familiar with it).
For the reactor dimensions, I have simply followed @Yugang's recommendations to calculate the dimensions suitable for my tank.
I also wanted to bring my own twist to it: An idea I've had for being able to do fine adjustments to CO2 levels by simply rotating the reactor.
The illustrations below will best explain how this works as well as my test results with my own tank and filter flow rate:
Notice how in all settings, the CO2 inlet is never submerged in water.
A couple of parameters to note:
The reactor can be attached to the cabinet using a couple of any regular PVC pipe clamps that fit your reactor's diameter size. These can be loosened a bit to rotate the reactor when initially fine-tuning CO2.
Obviously, in my case, if I were to adjust the reactor's length and bring the in/out fittings more to the outside, it could allow me to adjust CO2 drop between, say, 1 and 1.5-1.6, which would be very neat. But I'm happy with how it turned out because I could easily set it to my preferred 1.4 pH drop.
My impressions after using this for a month now:
Wow!
I now consider this to be the best method to inject CO2 in my tank due to these advantages:
Conclusion:
If you think about it, there hasn't been many true innovations when it comes to the fundamentals of the hobby for many years now (after we discount some "snake oily" product out there of course). All of the light, CO2, filtration, soil and fertilizer products have been operating on the same principles that have been around and known for many years now. Just with different colors, brands and experiences of how to use them.
If we take CO2 for instance, all of the injection methods relied on making CO2 bubbles inside the water. The idea that we do not need bubbles (which can be either unsightly or noisy) in the first place to reach CO2 saturation and superior stability so easily in high tech tanks is brilliant and makes me think "why haven't I thought of THAT before?". I think it is the future of CO2 reactors/injection and warrants more testing and adopting by more aquarists and new ideas for how to best standardize it in the future.
Thank you to @Yugang for this.
Let me know what you guys think about my idea.
For the reactor dimensions, I have simply followed @Yugang's recommendations to calculate the dimensions suitable for my tank.
I also wanted to bring my own twist to it: An idea I've had for being able to do fine adjustments to CO2 levels by simply rotating the reactor.
The illustrations below will best explain how this works as well as my test results with my own tank and filter flow rate:
Notice how in all settings, the CO2 inlet is never submerged in water.
A couple of parameters to note:
- My surface agitation is moderately high + a skimmer. Water temperature has been 27°C (80°F).
- I am using the reactor in overflow mode (see the aforementioned thread for more on what that means). I have the CO2 injection rate set (using my needle valve evidently) to where the reactor burps out of the outlet a couple of small bubbles of CO2 every 2-3 minutes.
The reactor can be attached to the cabinet using a couple of any regular PVC pipe clamps that fit your reactor's diameter size. These can be loosened a bit to rotate the reactor when initially fine-tuning CO2.
Obviously, in my case, if I were to adjust the reactor's length and bring the in/out fittings more to the outside, it could allow me to adjust CO2 drop between, say, 1 and 1.5-1.6, which would be very neat. But I'm happy with how it turned out because I could easily set it to my preferred 1.4 pH drop.
My impressions after using this for a month now:
Wow!
I now consider this to be the best method to inject CO2 in my tank due to these advantages:- The CO2 level stability has been great. No need for a very high-end needle valve (I use a mid-range one) since it tolerates some tiny needle valve drifting thanks to the overflow feature: the water-CO2 contact surface area is always the same.
- Totally silent! (The small burps that I have it set to let out are barely audible.) I will never go back to Cerges or Rex Riggs reactors just for the silence factor.
- The couple of small bubbles that I have it set to push out every few minutes serve a couple of nice purposes: It lets me know that the reactor is fully operational as intended. If I don't see them, then I know something is wrong with the CO2 system (like the gas tank has ran out, I no longer need to keep a drop checker just for this, or to keep checking the CO2 gauges inside the cabinet).
- Safety in case of accidental high injection rate (such as an End of Tank dump event with single stage regulators, or broken needle valve). I have put this feature to the test by opening the needle valve and letting the CO2 gas rush into the reactor and bubble out of the reactor into the tank intensely. After a few hours, all the fish were gasping at the surface, but no fatalities. Okay, maybe it's not 100% safe for everyone (depending on things like surface agitation) and I was watching things closely when I did that test. But I'm pretty sure it adds a safety buffer at least, because if I were to do that with, say, an in-tank or inline diffuser or a big enough vertical reactor, the fish wouldn't be near the surface for hours but rather dead. So I'd say it improves the safety and definitely gives you more time to save the fish in case of such an event compared to the other injection methods.
- Zero maintenance (compared to diffusers or non-empty reactors that is).
Conclusion:
If you think about it, there hasn't been many true innovations when it comes to the fundamentals of the hobby for many years now (after we discount some "snake oily" product out there of course). All of the light, CO2, filtration, soil and fertilizer products have been operating on the same principles that have been around and known for many years now. Just with different colors, brands and experiences of how to use them.
If we take CO2 for instance, all of the injection methods relied on making CO2 bubbles inside the water. The idea that we do not need bubbles (which can be either unsightly or noisy) in the first place to reach CO2 saturation and superior stability so easily in high tech tanks is brilliant and makes me think "why haven't I thought of THAT before?". I think it is the future of CO2 reactors/injection and warrants more testing and adopting by more aquarists and new ideas for how to best standardize it in the future.
Thank you to @Yugang for this.
Let me know what you guys think about my idea.
16 Replies
·
3385 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
Hi everyone!
I thought we would have more activity in this forum. I know back in the day, everyone was using shrimp to control algae especially the Yamatos.
Is that not a thing anymore?
Any shrimp-heads still out there? If so, what you got?
I thought we would have more activity in this forum. I know back in the day, everyone was using shrimp to control algae especially the Yamatos.
Is that not a thing anymore?
Any shrimp-heads still out there? If so, what you got?
26 Replies
·
4697 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
There are several threads discussing the new Aquael Hypermax 4500BT. I'm sure many would like some reports on it's performance over time. We have a thread discussing nano canister filters. We're all waiting for one of @Naturescapes_Rocco in depth write-ups discussing his filtration set-up. @Pepere and @*Ci* have unique set-ups as well, @Kwyet has used a matten filter, and we have several other members running sumps. That doesn't even include all those running sponge and HOB filters.
The idea is that we can consolidate a lot of filter information in one place making it easier to find rather than searching through so many threads. Maybe this won't work but I thought it was worth giving it a try. Perhaps it may be better listed as an article at some point.
I'm going to get things started by discussing factors I feel are most important to me when choosing a filter.
1) Filtration Performance: This goes without saying. The filter’s primary job is to keep our water clean and free of anything that harms the inhabitants. Of course, there are multiple factors that play into this. Some say flow is most critical, while others claim media volume is most important. Are there other factors? I still have limited experience, but my view, having done considerable reading, is that flow tends to be a bit overblown. You’ll see recommendations of anywhere from 4 to 10 times turnover rate with most leaning toward the higher end of that. I don’t think turnover rate is really the detail to be concerned about, at least with heavily planted tanks like are the norm here. I think the focus should be simply on ensuring flow achieves the goal of effectively moving water through the system to remove toxins/waste, delivering nutrients, and aiding gas (oxygen/CO2) transfer. If a turnover rate of 3 or 4 does that without dead spots in the tank, you should be good. After all, most of us here are plant focused and therefore, the fish we generally have are smaller community species that typically don’t care for high flow (there are, of course, exceptions).
I think there’s a simpler answer regarding media volume; more is better. Obviously, there must be a balance between internal volume and overall size of the filter. Real estate in and around our aquarium stands is precious. Filters like the Fluval FX6 and the newest Aquael Hypermax are huge. If you’re going for one of those, you’re likely putting it on a large tank with plenty of space underneath but again, it’s a matter of finding the right balance that provides the performance you need in a manageable size.
2) Reliability/Durability: This is where solid reviews come in handy and why getting feedback from users here is invaluable. Filtration performance becomes moot if the filter isn’t running, or worse yet, just flooded your house. Being able to easily source spare parts is also valuable, which is why sticking to the top well-known brands is often a safe route. It’s also why many aquarists place canister filters in protective containers, something else to consider when taking into account, size of filter. (this is something I should really do as I’ve had to clean up a few significant spills after filter maintenance and not getting the top secured in place properly
)
3) Tie – Maintenance/Noise Level: These two factors are equally important to me. If the filter is a pain to maintain, I’m going to put it off, and that’s bad. It affects the performance. But equally important to me is how noisy it is. I tend to be sensitive to annoying little sounds regardless of where I am; at home, in the car, at work, you name it. If the aquarium is in a part of the house I spend a lot of time in, well then, it’s even more important.
I don’t know if Oase was first to do it, but the idea of the prefilter was, I think, a game changer for many. I imagine it was derived from people installing foam filters on the intake pipes. Having an easily removable section with foam filters that catch a lot of large particles before entering the primary filter chamber is a great idea, resulting in expanded intervals between main filter head removals for cleaning.
Another aspect of maintenance is ease of priming. This could also be an aspect of performance but I don’t think it is quite as important. I’m not sure there is a canister filter that is truly or consistently easy to prime. Some may start out that way, but over time, become less and less so. This is an area I’d really like to see product designers put more serious thought. My experience so far is with Oase and the Fluval 07 series. Hated the Fuval priming and I’m just so-so with the Oase. Let me know your experience with priming other brands.
As for noise, I don’t mind the slight hum of an impeller as long as it’s steady and consistent, much the same way some people, including myself when I was younger, like the smooth steady sound of a fan at night to help them sleep. It’s when the sound becomes inconsistent, I’m bothered. I also don’t care for the sound of splashing/trickling water while I’m focused on other things. Only when I’m camping near the banks of a creek or other body of water is this OK
. This is one of the main reasons I’m not a fan of HOB filters. I’m also tweaking my CO2 reactor designs to minimize the bubble sounds of CO2 entering the reactor.
4) Cost: Let’s be clear, the cost doesn’t stop when you pay the retail price for the filter. There’s the cost of media and spare parts plus the cost of electricity. What’s the rated wattage of the filter. I see the Aquael filters claim to consume lower power and are therefore cheaper to run. What about special filter cartridges or foam. Is it easy to cut foam filters from inexpensive bulk material? How often are gasket replacements necessary, or are there common issues with parts failing over time. Of two Fluval 07 filters I’ve used, both needed replacement impeller shafts. Oase Biomaster filters seem to have an issue with the input/output head often needing replaced.
I admit cost isn’t a critical factor for me, but I know it is for many others, so this is another instance where finding the right balance is key, in this case, the balance between price and performance.
Share your thoughts. Do these factors seem to align with yours or do you think I’m way off base. Tell us what types and brands of filters you prefer and why.
The idea is that we can consolidate a lot of filter information in one place making it easier to find rather than searching through so many threads. Maybe this won't work but I thought it was worth giving it a try. Perhaps it may be better listed as an article at some point.
I'm going to get things started by discussing factors I feel are most important to me when choosing a filter.
1) Filtration Performance: This goes without saying. The filter’s primary job is to keep our water clean and free of anything that harms the inhabitants. Of course, there are multiple factors that play into this. Some say flow is most critical, while others claim media volume is most important. Are there other factors? I still have limited experience, but my view, having done considerable reading, is that flow tends to be a bit overblown. You’ll see recommendations of anywhere from 4 to 10 times turnover rate with most leaning toward the higher end of that. I don’t think turnover rate is really the detail to be concerned about, at least with heavily planted tanks like are the norm here. I think the focus should be simply on ensuring flow achieves the goal of effectively moving water through the system to remove toxins/waste, delivering nutrients, and aiding gas (oxygen/CO2) transfer. If a turnover rate of 3 or 4 does that without dead spots in the tank, you should be good. After all, most of us here are plant focused and therefore, the fish we generally have are smaller community species that typically don’t care for high flow (there are, of course, exceptions).
I think there’s a simpler answer regarding media volume; more is better. Obviously, there must be a balance between internal volume and overall size of the filter. Real estate in and around our aquarium stands is precious. Filters like the Fluval FX6 and the newest Aquael Hypermax are huge. If you’re going for one of those, you’re likely putting it on a large tank with plenty of space underneath but again, it’s a matter of finding the right balance that provides the performance you need in a manageable size.
2) Reliability/Durability: This is where solid reviews come in handy and why getting feedback from users here is invaluable. Filtration performance becomes moot if the filter isn’t running, or worse yet, just flooded your house. Being able to easily source spare parts is also valuable, which is why sticking to the top well-known brands is often a safe route. It’s also why many aquarists place canister filters in protective containers, something else to consider when taking into account, size of filter. (this is something I should really do as I’ve had to clean up a few significant spills after filter maintenance and not getting the top secured in place properly
)3) Tie – Maintenance/Noise Level: These two factors are equally important to me. If the filter is a pain to maintain, I’m going to put it off, and that’s bad. It affects the performance. But equally important to me is how noisy it is. I tend to be sensitive to annoying little sounds regardless of where I am; at home, in the car, at work, you name it. If the aquarium is in a part of the house I spend a lot of time in, well then, it’s even more important.
I don’t know if Oase was first to do it, but the idea of the prefilter was, I think, a game changer for many. I imagine it was derived from people installing foam filters on the intake pipes. Having an easily removable section with foam filters that catch a lot of large particles before entering the primary filter chamber is a great idea, resulting in expanded intervals between main filter head removals for cleaning.
Another aspect of maintenance is ease of priming. This could also be an aspect of performance but I don’t think it is quite as important. I’m not sure there is a canister filter that is truly or consistently easy to prime. Some may start out that way, but over time, become less and less so. This is an area I’d really like to see product designers put more serious thought. My experience so far is with Oase and the Fluval 07 series. Hated the Fuval priming and I’m just so-so with the Oase. Let me know your experience with priming other brands.
As for noise, I don’t mind the slight hum of an impeller as long as it’s steady and consistent, much the same way some people, including myself when I was younger, like the smooth steady sound of a fan at night to help them sleep. It’s when the sound becomes inconsistent, I’m bothered. I also don’t care for the sound of splashing/trickling water while I’m focused on other things. Only when I’m camping near the banks of a creek or other body of water is this OK
. This is one of the main reasons I’m not a fan of HOB filters. I’m also tweaking my CO2 reactor designs to minimize the bubble sounds of CO2 entering the reactor.4) Cost: Let’s be clear, the cost doesn’t stop when you pay the retail price for the filter. There’s the cost of media and spare parts plus the cost of electricity. What’s the rated wattage of the filter. I see the Aquael filters claim to consume lower power and are therefore cheaper to run. What about special filter cartridges or foam. Is it easy to cut foam filters from inexpensive bulk material? How often are gasket replacements necessary, or are there common issues with parts failing over time. Of two Fluval 07 filters I’ve used, both needed replacement impeller shafts. Oase Biomaster filters seem to have an issue with the input/output head often needing replaced.
I admit cost isn’t a critical factor for me, but I know it is for many others, so this is another instance where finding the right balance is key, in this case, the balance between price and performance.
Share your thoughts. Do these factors seem to align with yours or do you think I’m way off base. Tell us what types and brands of filters you prefer and why.
89 Replies
·
5215 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!
1988 Replies
·
49160 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
Amazon prime day is less than 2 weeks away so I thought I'd start a thread in advance to discuss any bargains we might see.
The reason this came to mind now was that I just happen to be browsing for other things when I noticed this small curved edge low iron tank pop up. I would probably buy one of these if it drops even lower for prime day.
10 Gallon Ultra Clear Glass Rimless Curved Edge Aquarium
The reason this came to mind now was that I just happen to be browsing for other things when I noticed this small curved edge low iron tank pop up. I would probably buy one of these if it drops even lower for prime day.
10 Gallon Ultra Clear Glass Rimless Curved Edge Aquarium
45 Replies
·
925 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
The January Photo of the Month contest is now live. Please submit your photo as a post to this thread.
The first theme is: Best Red Plant Solo photo.An example:
Winner: One winner will get POTM Winner user banner under their name and, of course, bragging rights with lifelong admiration.
Rules:
- Make a post in this thread and attach your contest submission photo!
- Only 1 entry per member please - bring your best photo!
- Submission period will be for three weeks and then close to new entries. It will close and voting begins on January 23rd.
- Winner will be chosen last day of the month based on vote count total
- Each member has one vote for each entry based on a 10 point scale. Every photo gets a vote from 1 -10 with 10 being the best.
- The photo should be no larger than 800px x 800px and image editing should be kept to a minimum (i.e., no super saturations, etc.)
- Staff Members reserve the right to disqualify highly doctored images
- The photo should be in jpg or png format and no larger than 1 megabyte
- *** Minimum 5 members must participate for the prize to count ***
Looking forward to seeing your best red plant photos! Good luck!
Best,
Art
24 Replies
·
4672 views
I have a 125 Gallon tank that I am Co2 injecting for the first time. I do not like the Co2 reactor I have now so I am going to build a Yugang Rector but do not want to mess up my calculations when building. How does my tops effect the Yugang calculations, plus how safe is it to have tops on the tank as far as gas exchange and oxygenation is concerned. I have a photo showing the top of the tank.
Thanks
Thanks
5 Replies
·
57 views
T
Supporting
I Donated 2026
I just planted this aquarium 2 weeks ago. I have a dozen Amano shrimp for algae control, no other fish or shrimp. This will be a neocaridina shrimp tank once its seasons. I got into the office early today, before the aquarium lights went on and I saw 3 of these guys swimming in the water column. Once the lights came on, they disappeared quickly. I was concerned that this flatworm of whatever type might be predatory toward shrimp the way leaches and planaria can be. I figure I need to medicate the tank. My LFS recommended Flatworm eXit by salifert. I have some. I wanted to see if anyone might help me identify it. Honestly, once my plants had filled in and I was done planting, I was going to nuke the tank with fenbendazole to make sure there were no hydra, planaria, snails, etc. before I introduced neocaridina shrimp. Thoughts, suggestions, treatments, etc.?
1 Replies
·
34 views
This thread is for the general discussion of the classified ad Anubias Barteri Nana - Aquarium Plant - Big Sale - $35 shipped. Please add to the discussion here.
4 Replies
·
55 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
Hello Welcome, WhoIsRoscoe
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @WhoIsRoscoe!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
0 Replies
·
13 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
It's been a couple months and I could use a @Jeff Miotke fix. Any new videos in the works Jeff?
1 Replies
·
126 views