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Yugang
Last reply · posted in Equipment Discussions
Inspired by the thread on CO2 controllers, and @Art experiment with modified pH probe / drop checker, I came up with what is to the best of my knowledge a new approach for our hobby.

I am not strong on the chemistry of CO2 in water, so it would be great if others chime in and comment if this approach makes sense.

Use the principle of Henry's law and fill the space under a closed aquarium lid with the correct concentration of CO2, using an affordable 65 USD sensor or similar with solenoid to release CO2 above the water. Control CO2 partial pressure so that the tank water will reach equilibrium with this gas pocket at about 30 ppm in the water. This would allow for very stable CO2 in the tank, and a big saver in CO2 as we don't rely on the outgassing via surface agitation to achieve stability. Besides that, it will be only weakly dependent on water chemistry (this may need to be tested and/or confirmed/quantified by chemists, as the chemistry and temperature do have some influence on CO2 solubility?).


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Notes:
  • My first thoughts/estimations are that one can reach 30 ppm in the tank water very fast, and have probably more than 90% savings on CO2 consumption. As we now measure CO2 in the gas pocket, independent of water chemistry, it would (hopefully) also be the first time that we can forget water chemistry as a major factor, complications with pH probes and using pH as a proxy, and indeed know the real water CO2 ppm more accurately and with less risks of misinterpretations of measurements.
  • We don't need a precision expensive CO2 regulator anymore, no diffuser or reactor, no pH probe or drop checker. Just a sensor with electronics that switches a solenoid on and off. It would probably be good to have a simple air pump added, so that O2 and other gasses can exchange, but this would give very low CO2 losses.
From a physics and chemical perspective the approach is very similar (in reverse) to what professional dissolved CO2 probes do (see attached: measure CO2 concentration in a gas pocket that is in equilibrium with water), so that gives me some confidence that the above will work. However I am not confident that my understanding of chemistry of CO2 in water is good enough, and I may miss important aspects. Hope others chime in, and help to quantify if the chemistry is a minor or perhaps a major complication.

Attached file: Datasheet explaining the principle and use of a dedicated dissolved CO2 meter (for most in the hobby too expensive, but similar scientific principles applied as in above ideas).
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29 replies · 4782 views
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Reactions: Art
R
Last reply · posted in Equipment Discussions
Hello everyone,

Excuse my multiple posts - I'm new here and trying to determine the best way to ask all of my questions!

As I have stated in a few other posts, I am starting a high-tech, 235g planted tank. Tank dimensions are 72" L x 30" W x 25" H.

I'm still working out many of the details, but for now I plan to make this a South American themed tank centered around a few Electric Blue Acara. And yes, I know they'll dig :) I don't plan to have a ton of red plants, if any, in the tank, but I do want a light that has potential in that I can use it in any situation should I choose to redo/rescape the tank a few years down the road.

My requirements:

1. Must be able to be mounted via hanging kit/pendant mount
2. Dimmable
3. Usable App for initial setup with customizable channels - I typically loathe preset specs.
4. Reliable
5. Budget - nothing set in stone - but I would assume somewhere around $1,000.00 USD would be sufficient.

I'm an old school T5HO fan, but I thought I would change it up a bit for this tank and see what I am missing out on.

My current top choice is the Week Aqua (version 3) P900 Pro x 2.

I welcome any input on these specific lights (is 2 enough?) as well as any other lights that would be comparable and fit the criteria noted above.
40 replies · 897 views
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Dennis Wong
Last reply · posted in Journals
I came into some Hygrophila polysperma "white" by Tropica recently. Grew it out and it seems to be able to be shaped into good midground bushes so I decided to create a layout to showcase it. Contemplated whether to use it as the only white plant in the tank, but decided to use some Anubias white petite as well so that the white polysperma doesn't stand out awkwardly.

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17 replies · 653 views
Art
Art
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion

THE official "what did you do to your tank(s) today" thread!​

Happy Will Ferrell GIF


Let's keep it real by sharing our daily routine. Post daily if you want. It's nice to check in with fellow aquatic gardeners.
322 replies · 17701 views
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Reactions: Countrykingdom09
Dennis Wong
Last reply · posted in Journals
Started a new tank with the idea of show casing Lagenandra meeboldii which I have not showcased before. Wanted to feature Hygrophila lower Hlaingbwe, but I removed it later as I think it would be too large for this tank.

New substrate, new filter, squeezed filter mulm from the other matured tank, then ran the tank one week day before planting. 100% water change after planting, then 100% water change every other day since then. Dosing 1ml APT3 after water change day, and remineralizing to 5dGH using APT Sky. Trying out the low water column dosing approach for the initial period.

Filter: Oase 250
Lights: Week aqua a430 80%
Substrate: APT Feast

Was going to Journal about startup issues, however, it seems like the tank has already stabilized, skipping diatoms and green dust phase.

Freshly planted for a couple of days:
13/2/2026
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Replanted the tops for Myriophyllum roraima, Cut and replanted Rotala blood red to begin building up the bush form. Trimmed old leaves
Foreground seems a bit blocky for now, so I think I'lll move stuff round again. Probably when the BV grows out some more.
Pic on 23/2/2026

Readings at this stage:
Potassium: 2.3ppm
Ammonia: 0.1ppm

reduce water changes to 2 times a week.

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60 replies · 4088 views
Phish Tank
Last reply · posted in Journals

Journal  Low and Slow

Finally a journal.

I’ll soon be setting up two new tanks, a UNS 90p and a 50c. (Not so!) Patiently awaiting tanks and stands delivery.

They will both be middle energy tanks. I have lengthy periods of busy time and travel that mean the tanks need to survive without human intervention here and there. So plenty of automation is needed, and slow and steady wins over high energy. Or in BBQ smoking terms: low and slow.

Plans:
  • Injected CO2, but less than 30ppm
  • Inert gravel
  • Tidal HOB filter and partial UGF plate.
  • Less than EI ferts, but more than PPS pro.
  • Tap water (my tap is 50 TDS and only 10ppm Ca) remineralized to 30ppm Ca and 3-4 dKH.
  • Lower light levels: Week aqua L on 90p and Chihiros wrgb 2 slim on 50c.
  • Easy slow growing plants, and a few fish. Thinking the 50c will be a shrimp tank.
  • Some hardscape but nothing crazy

My last tank has had a rough year. Hurricane Helene meant two weeks with no electricity, and much longer without decent water changes.

Then last summer the tank developed a slow leak while I was out of town (ugh!). Had to fly home for a week to triage. Fish and plants have been in temporary tanks. Plants are struggling. Photo is when they had already been in temporary bin for over 6 weeks, I was surprised it didn’t look like an algae infested swamp.

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Sooo ready for my new tanks! These are my first really nice tanks, I’ve only owned petco specials before.

For the new tanks I'm planning on over ordering plants since my surviving plants are clearly pretty weak at this point.
47 replies · 3353 views
N
Last reply · posted in New to Planted Aquariums? Post Here
Looking for a nice-looking 16/22 in/out set for a planted tank.
Preferably durable and with a functional integrated skimmer.

I really like the Aquario Neo Flow V2, but I’ve read that the skimmer can suck in/kill small fish or shrimp. Any good alternatives?

Thanks!
17 replies · 184 views
HardeeParty
Last reply · posted in Lounge
I’m often out and about working in the field and stumble upon breathtaking examples of often overlooked and under appreciated slices of nature that Florida has to offer.

My neck of the woods is filled with marsh/wetlands ripe with both native and invasive wildlife of all flavors; I want to start a thread where I can document and share.

I’ll update this thread whenever I capture something noteworthy. Much of what catches my eye is aquatic flora, but I try and document anything captivating. I hope you find this as beautiful and fascinating as I do.

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104 replies · 6485 views
HardeeParty
Last reply · posted in Journals
Time to start a new thread.

I’ll fill in some details later, but I’m working on the hardscape now. Any and all criticism is appreciated. The vision is nothing more, and nothing less, than something appealing to the eye.

90cm x 30cm x 30cm Lifegard Aquatics ultra clear bookshelf tank. Buce and anubias on the hardscape, stems towards the back and center, mid to front carpet with some changes in shade and texture down to a flat grade on the right side of the tank.

Lily pipe inlet and skimmer will be in the back left corner with the outflow in the front left to hopefully achieve circular flow. I’ll be running an in-line diffuser. Light will be the P600 Pro that I regrettably did not upside to 900. Oh well. I’ll mount it high and hopefully it’ll have enough spread.

I have some dragon stone and red lava rock rubble I’ll use at the base to blend into the substrate, as well as some stratum I may or may not cap with.

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217 replies · 23333 views
HardeeParty
Last reply · posted in Lounge
Some of the other terrestrial projects I’m working on. Slowly building towards the halo project, an ebb and flow Florida wetland biotope utilizing a bell siphon for tidal management. These are almost all in my office. The bog biotopes are experiments for emersed growing species that are sensitive to shipping in fully submersed form (Sclerolepis unifloria, for example).

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13 replies · 454 views
C
Last reply · posted in Fertilizing and Aquarium Chemistry
Hi everyone, I'm curious. My pH is 0 and my GH is 7. My pH is 5.5/5.6 all day. I use CO2 24/7. My pH drop is 1.6/1.7. I degas the water with an air pump for two hours, then I check every hour until the pH becomes stable. Why does the drop control always stay green? Isn't the pH drop high for a 0KH? Should it be yellow? Or am I wrong? Thank you very much.
10 replies · 135 views
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