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The mystery of KH and running with zero KH

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The flow meter sounds like it solves the exact same issue that the handles did for me, but maybe in an even more efficient way. How easy or difficult are they to incorporate into a reg you already have, are they just screwed in with their own built-in needle valve, etc? It's something I'd like to look into adding to my setup
If you have a good quality needle valve that doesn't drift then you are good. But many times folks have cheap needle valves that don't keep a stable flow.

A flow meter is a nice alternative and very easy to set up. I would get one with a valve. I keep my needle valve pretty wide open and use the flow meter valve to adjust.

The nice thing to me is the visual confirmation of the flow, and it's also very easy to make changes in small increments.

Here's a video showing me adjusting mine.

 
If you have a good quality needle valve that doesn't drift then you are good. But many times folks have cheap needle valves that don't keep a stable flow.

A flow meter is a nice alternative and very easy to set up. I would get one with a valve. I keep my needle valve pretty wide open and use the flow meter valve to adjust.

The nice thing to me is the visual confirmation of the flow, and it's also very easy to make changes in small increments.

Here's a video showing me adjusting mine.


Definitely like this alot
 
I would absolutely recommend it with the only concession being to Gregg's point. Do they want to get their hands wet and go down the rabbit hole? Then absolutely. My first tank was low-to-no kh, and I knew nothing about plants or tanks--never so much as kept a bowl with rainbow gravel in it even. I never ran into any problems with 0dkh, probably because of a couple other points brought up here (regular basic maintenance and a bit of reading and research)

@plantbrain also appreciate you commenting here Tom, I honestly didn't know the ppm of injected co2 would be the same regardless of KH. That was super interesting to read, I have to sharpen up my rudimentary water chemistry knowledge somewhere along the line.

@GreggZ we have similar thoughts about CO2 setups I think, I've never ran a monitor because my ph dips too low on injection to be of any practical use. I finally upgraded my setup with a nicely built reg and the biggest thing I sprang on were two very good needle valves and some metered handles for them, think everyone knows what I'm talking about without adding a pic...now I have a point of reference on the valve handle itself so I have an arbitrary number that says *this* is where you were getting your 1.4 drop with equipment arranged the way it was, etc...instead of having to guess or rely on a bubble counter.

The flow meter sounds like it solves the exact same issue that the handles did for me, but maybe in an even more efficient way. How easy or difficult are they to incorporate into a reg you already have, are they just screwed in with their own built-in needle valve, etc? It's something I'd like to look into adding to my setup
If you look at my post above, there is a pic or 2 of my Flow Meter. Generally speaking they are incorporated in-line somewhere separate from the actual regulator.
 
Definitely like this alot
The tricky part is getting the right scale for your tank.

We are measuring cc/min which is a VERY small amount of flow in the scheme of things.

The two most common ones people use are the Dwyer RMA-151-SSV (5-10 cc/min) or RMA-150-SSV (10-100 cc/min).

The RMA-151-SSV is good up to about 120G. Anything larger the RMA-151-SSV is better.

I use the 151 model on my 120G, and I am right up at about 45 cc/min. In retrospect I probably could have got the 151 model. But when I bought mine I had no frame of reference as no one was using them.

The way this got started was when I first got into the hobby I just couldn't believe people were trying to count bubbles in a larger tank. I mean it's just a constant stream. And then when I was trying to adjust things in small increments it just didn't work well.

If I were starting all over today I would likely buy a cheap regulator and a good flow meter. To me it's just a more elegant solution.
 
Lot of in depth info in the above post
 
Well said as usual my friend. Like many of our discussions, my conclusions are largely anecdotal, while you actually have science to back things up!
This makes so much sense, my tank at 2dkh I had a ph of 6.5 then slowly I stopped adding buffers and it’s now at 0dkh, ph is at 4.2 with co2 on, I have a less than 1 ph drop but was at a 1.4 ph drop I am assuming I am still at a 1.4 drop because I can’t go any more
 

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