- Thread starter
- #21
Spent the weekend transferring everything over from the 40 Breeder in to their new home. Took 2 days and 600w of heater to get the water from 60 to 84 degrees, but I made it work.
Plants are all broad leaved - swords / crypts etc. I will be adding more as I find them. This will be a "planted fish tank" (not to be confused with a "planted tank with fish")
I went ahead and checked the water parameters of my well water, and the water is a bit harder than I initially expected, however all the discus I will be purchasing are / will be bread in "local" tapwater and honestly the ones I have now are doing very well in my well water. "Local" tapwater is most often fairly hard.
From the tap:
205ppm TDS
11 dkh
10 dgh
0 NO3
0 PO4
pH - Didn't check, as I find this redundant if I'm not injecting CO2 (for now
) and I don't trust my liquid kit or my dried up probe.
Safe to assume most of the kh is Calcium Carbonate???
I'm going to ditch the idea of trying for root tabs only, too much inconsistencies, some plants were thriving, others were dying off. I'll likely still supplement some nutrients via tabs, but I won't be using O+ anymore. I'm going to focus on leaving these root zones untouched, and letting the rhizosphere develop and mature, and only use low salt index, slow release granular fertilizer in my supplemental root tabs.
So, instead I have front loaded (and will continue to front load):
15ppm NO3 (unless I notice NO3 creeping up from feeding live + pellet foods quite often)
25ppm K
5ppm PO4
5ppm Mg
Additionally, I will be using Burr's recommended micro mix from the Custom Micro Thread as a starting point - starting at 2x weekly vs 3x weekly doing levels.
Additional info:
CO2 - None for now, this will likely change within 6-12 months as CO2 just makes planted tanks so much better.
Substrate - Pool filter sand, not too thick because I ran into anaerobic pockets with this in the past.
Filtration / Water Circulation - Marineland C220 with sponges / biomedia (from the 40 Breeder) and a Hydor circulation pump for mass flow. Plants have a gentle wave back-and-forth and fish are freely swimming throughout the tank. Sump is still planned for the future.
Lighting - 2 x 32w JC&P Full Spectrum RGB LED's with reds + blues on 100% and whites at 60% - 6 hour photo period for now. DIY 2 x 80w T5-HO is in the works.
Temperature - 84 degrees, 2 x Fluval E300 heaters.
Livestock - 3 Discus, 1 small super red bushy nose pleco - I have another discus in quarantine right now to total 4. Will likely plan for 8-12 depending on size and aggression.
Plants are focused in the center, like a tropical island style scape, allowing for plenty of swimming room around the outside.
Feeding brine shrimp, pellets and sticks (not sure what to call them) 2-3 x per day.
First time I've ever had the chance to use an adapter on a normal water faucet.
Plants are all broad leaved - swords / crypts etc. I will be adding more as I find them. This will be a "planted fish tank" (not to be confused with a "planted tank with fish")
I went ahead and checked the water parameters of my well water, and the water is a bit harder than I initially expected, however all the discus I will be purchasing are / will be bread in "local" tapwater and honestly the ones I have now are doing very well in my well water. "Local" tapwater is most often fairly hard.
From the tap:
205ppm TDS
11 dkh
10 dgh
0 NO3
0 PO4
pH - Didn't check, as I find this redundant if I'm not injecting CO2 (for now
Safe to assume most of the kh is Calcium Carbonate???
I'm going to ditch the idea of trying for root tabs only, too much inconsistencies, some plants were thriving, others were dying off. I'll likely still supplement some nutrients via tabs, but I won't be using O+ anymore. I'm going to focus on leaving these root zones untouched, and letting the rhizosphere develop and mature, and only use low salt index, slow release granular fertilizer in my supplemental root tabs.
So, instead I have front loaded (and will continue to front load):
15ppm NO3 (unless I notice NO3 creeping up from feeding live + pellet foods quite often)
25ppm K
5ppm PO4
5ppm Mg
Additionally, I will be using Burr's recommended micro mix from the Custom Micro Thread as a starting point - starting at 2x weekly vs 3x weekly doing levels.
Additional info:
CO2 - None for now, this will likely change within 6-12 months as CO2 just makes planted tanks so much better.
Substrate - Pool filter sand, not too thick because I ran into anaerobic pockets with this in the past.
Filtration / Water Circulation - Marineland C220 with sponges / biomedia (from the 40 Breeder) and a Hydor circulation pump for mass flow. Plants have a gentle wave back-and-forth and fish are freely swimming throughout the tank. Sump is still planned for the future.
Lighting - 2 x 32w JC&P Full Spectrum RGB LED's with reds + blues on 100% and whites at 60% - 6 hour photo period for now. DIY 2 x 80w T5-HO is in the works.
Temperature - 84 degrees, 2 x Fluval E300 heaters.
Livestock - 3 Discus, 1 small super red bushy nose pleco - I have another discus in quarantine right now to total 4. Will likely plan for 8-12 depending on size and aggression.
Plants are focused in the center, like a tropical island style scape, allowing for plenty of swimming room around the outside.
Feeding brine shrimp, pellets and sticks (not sure what to call them) 2-3 x per day.
First time I've ever had the chance to use an adapter on a normal water faucet.