Journal First time aquascaping. My 90cm nature style from the start.

[SkyeScapes]

I’m starting this build with no experience in aquascaping other than keeping a large low tech community, fish focussed tank many years ago. I’m pleased with my hard scape but I think that will be the easy part. I’ll document all my ups and downs here and hopefully end up with my dream scape

Aquasys 230L 90x55x53cm
Week Aqua L series lighting
Oase bio master 2 thermo 350
CO2 still to add
Stainless steel Lily pipes
Local basalt pebbles
Spider wood
Tropica Aqua Soil
Sand Foreground

I’m planning a dark start which gives me time to plan the planing and fish. I have some ideas but welcome suggestions!

 

[Koan]

I like all the movement!

Beautiful stand, did you make that?

This can also help with the light cord

 

[SkyeScapes]

I like all the movement!

Beautiful stand, did you make that?

This can also help with the light cord

Brilliant suggestion thanks!
The stand came with the tank. It's from Aqua One in Nebraska Oak colour - just a laminate but very convincing wood effect. I'm really pleased with it. I bought it online without seeing it so it was a bit of a gamble.

 

[SkyeScapes]

I thought I would add my starting water parameters at this stage. I have a pretty basic (no pun......) understanding of water chemistry so maybe someone can give me more insight into what my tank parameters might be when I add CO2 etc. I'll test regularly in any case.

So I have a private, natural spring which supplies my house.

From the tap: pH6.6, KH6, GH6, TDS 130
On rapid stirring for 5min: pH 7.4 KH6, GH6, TDS 130
On standing for 48hrs: Ph8.2 KH6. GH6, TDS 130

So as I understand it I have high dissolved CO2 from the spring which degasses over 48hrs.

I will be running C02 so my tank pH will sit lower than 8.2 and hopefully will be relatively stable? The aquasoil will change things up too.

I am concerned about doing large water changes with water straight from the tap but I'll just have to see how it goes.

 

[CincyScaper]

I would actually find the hardscape part one of the hardest, it looks great. I love the stone and wood.
- Do you plan to add a background ?

Your spring water parameters looks good, do you know if this is stable ? assuming it is.
You could always add a RO system at some point in the future, especially if you want to grow very soft water plants.
Your aquasoil buffering capacity will change with time as well, so would need to check your pH long term for stability.
A lot of variables but you could test these out during your dark start. I would recommend adding Co2 during your dark start and use that time to dial it in.

 

[SkyeScapes]

I would actually find the hardscape part one of the hardest, it looks great. I love the stone and wood.
- Do you plan to add a background ?

Your spring water parameters looks good, do you know if this is stable ? assuming it is.
You could always add a RO system at some point in the future, especially if you want to grow very soft water plants.
Your aquasoil buffering capacity will change with time as well, so would need to check your pH long term for stability.
A lot of variables but you could test these out during your dark start. I would recommend adding Co2 during your dark start and use that time to dial it in.

Thanks for the kind comments. I loved the hardscape stage and almost wonder if the plants and fish might spoil it . I'll have to hope it doesn't all collapse / float.

I think my spring water might vary a bit with rainfall (in Scotland - so much rain!) over the seasons but day to day it shouldn't drift.

I'll probably avoid soft water specific plants / RO for now, I feel that more tech at this stage might be too much!

 

[Koan]

I loved the hardscape stage and almost wonder if the plants and fish might spoil it

I assume the wood elements are glued down?

One comment I would make is several of the wood ends look to be quite close to the glass.

For your sanity for cleaning purposes, you really want to be able to get your whole hand easily around between all hardscape and your glass

 

[SkyeScapes]

I assume the wood elements are glued down?

One comment I would make is several of the wood ends look to be quite close to the glass.

For your sanity for cleaning purposes, you really want to be able to get your whole hand easily around between all hardscape and your glass

Yes, all glued down with cotton pads and superglue although it feels quite brittle. I might add more joins just in case! I saw someone make sandbags to weigh wood down temporarily so I’ll do that too.

I hadn’t considered the cleaning issue . It’s only the bottom front left corner that might be an issue. There’s just a couple of mm gap. Too late now I suppose.

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

Agreed with @Koan, hitting wood hardscape while cleaning the glass is incredibly annoying! Made that mistake two or three times before, finally started cutting the wood if necessary to keep it from touching the glass lol.

 

[SkyeScapes]

Agreed with @Koan, hitting wood hardscape while cleaning the glass is incredibly annoying! Made that mistake two or three times before, finally started cutting the wood if necessary to keep it from touching the glass lol.

Might have to saw a bit off in that case. My lines will be all wrong though!

 

[Koan]

My lines will be all wrong though!

Nah just nip some ends off with a Dremel or other rotary tool

 

[SkyeScapes]

Nah just nip some ends off with a Dremel or other rotary tool

View attachment 19530

Good plan!

 

[SkyeScapes]

Looking at other people’s journals and builds I notice that most seem to have gone for much more powerful filtration than me. I have the Oase Biomaster 2 Thermo 350 which says suitable for up to 350L. My net volume will be something like 200L. Have I made a mistake?

Also (as a newbie here) is this journal the right place to ask questions or is it better to start a new post?

 

[Kwyet]

You generally have to assume any filter is only half as effective as it claims to be, so it may be a little underpowered for you.

I find that most of the time, questions will be answered right in the journal, but if you don’t get answers it can help to post a specific question in the appropriate area.

 

[Capraquaria]

Personally, I probably would go with at least a Biomaster2 650 on a 90 cm. But you can try the 350 and see how it goes during your dark start. The advantage with the Biomasters is they have the same footprint, so even if you upgrade at a later date you can just transfer the media trays and filter sponges over to the next larger size. That said, it depends a lot on how you intend to plant your tank, as to what level of filtration will work the best for your scape. Epiphytes at the base along the rocks, with moss on the branches, conserves the upper level flow in the tank. However, tall background plants, and dense thickets of stems that fill in downstream of your filter outflow will decrease the gyre around the tank as the plants mature. I just went through this with my own tank when a massive Nymphaea exploded in growth and created a dead zone at the opposite end of the tank in just a week between water changes! Flow was fine until too many of those lily pads rushed for the surface, and now I feel like Edward Scissorhands, lopping off several huge leaves a week just to keep the water moving, as my 850 outflow is a little weak for back side of my tank.

What you put in your filter can also affect flow. Some use the stock sponges that come with the filter, others may pack it with biomedia, which is fine, but then if you start adding bags packed with other media, like purigen or carbon to some of the trays, or packing it with filter floss that traps fine particles, those can also decrease flow. I think whenever possible, as I have made this mistake myself, go for more filtration than you think you will need.

 

[JayP]

I have the biomaster 600 on my very heavily planted 90cm and I find it barely adequate,, especially as the filter sponges get dirtier.

 

[Koan]

My net volume will be something like 200L. Have I made a mistake?

Remember your plants and substrate are going to do most of the heavy lifting for biofiltration. The issue can be if your filter does not push enough water to get you adequate flow.

Flow is important to get all of your plants fed well.

Don't worry yet, you have options to add in something like a surface skimmer or a wavemaker, if you find you're not happy with the amount of flow moving nutrients and CO2 around your tank.

I personally use small wavemakers to adjust flow in my tanks, rather than depending on the filter output alone.

 

[SkyeScapes]

Thanks for the responses. I’ll have to have a think. I’ve not used the 350 yet so I might be able to return it.

 

[SkyeScapes]

I’ve been using chat GPT to help with my start up schedule. (I know…..wasting water but then so does keeping aquariums ). Does this all sound ok as a guide? I feel better about starting with a structured plan. I know it’s not the same as asking really hobbyists but I’ve only just found this forum! From what I’ve read, a fishless cycle / dark start will suit me best.

Day 0
Finish and secure the hardscape. Check glue joints and make sure the aquasoil/sand barriers are secure.


Day 1 - Fill
Fill carefully. Start the BioMaster 350 and run it 24/7. Add bottled bacteria. Lights OFF. CO2 OFF. No fertiliser.


Day 4-5
Test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Record the results. Do not change water simply because it is test day.


Day 7
Test again. If ammonia is measurable but not extreme, leave it alone so the bacteria can process it. If ammonia is extremely high or off the test scale, change roughly 30-50% and retest.


Day 10-11
Test ammonia and nitrite. Look for evidence that ammonia is being converted. No routine water change.


Day 14
Test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Only change water if ammonia/nitrite are excessively high.
Otherwise allow the cycle to continue undisturbed.


Days 15-20
Keep the filter running and tank dark. Test every 3-4 days. Look for ammonia rising then falling, nitrite appearing then falling, and nitrate accumulating.


Day 21
Run a full test. If ammonia and nitrite are approaching zero, move toward the final phase. If still substantial, continue the dark start. Do not finish simply because a certain number of days has passed.


~Days 22-28
Begin CO2 commissioning once cycling is well advanced. Keep the tank dark and fishless. Set the CO2 timer to the schedule you intend to use after planting.


CO2 Days 1-3
Start conservatively. Measure degassed/reference pH and the pH fall after CO2 starts. Gradually adjust toward approximately a 1.0 pH-unit drop. Record bubble rate as a repeatable setting, not as
the target itself.


CO2 Days 4-7
Once the desired pH curve is reached, stop adjusting. Run the same setting for several days and confirm that the pH response is repeatable.


Cycle complete
When ammonia = 0 and nitrite = 0 and the tank is consistently processing the soil's ammonia, the biological dark-start phase is essentially complete.


Day before planting
Do a large 70-80% water change to remove accumulated nitrate and organics. Run the
established CO2 schedule afterwards and check that the pH response has not materially changed.


Planting day
Drain the tank down for easier planting. Plant tissue cultures plus mature Anubias, Buce and moss as planned. Refill. Run the established CO2 programme. Lights ON for the first time.