Because you have aquasoil do not tie your co2 to a PH controller. Read THIS THREAD for an in depth explanation why
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Help 90g, Dutch style, first try
- Thread starter riioKen
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- Thread starter
- #242
Thanks @Burr740, but I've already read that post. It's true, I have an aquasoil, I'm using 100% RO water at KH 0 since the end of November (50% WC x 2 week), I've monitored my pH very closely and I can clearly see a pattern. My pH, right now, peak at 7.1 before CO2 on and at 5.8/5.9, degassed is 7.2/7.3.
Do you think that the KH can still swing? Honestly i don't know how if the water is at KH 0?
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- #243
In addition to what I've said above, the Jbl proflora has the option to set a manual pH, and then start from there without taking in consideration the KH (it has both option)
- Thread starter
- #245
Yep, it's 2 month since my first WC with 100% RO water at 0kh.
At the beginning, my tank was with tap water at KH 8. It took almost 2 months for my tank water to read completely 0 KH.
My sera test first drop is still clear (instead turning blue) while the second is yellow. I read it as 0 or < 1kh
- Thread starter
- #246
Hey guys as I said few posts above, I've bought "Jbl proflora CO2 control"
It didn't come with a probes but instead of buying jbl's probe I've bought bluelab's pH probe as I think it's a more reliable brand for ph measurement (considering that it's a brand made around pH control lol).
Before setting the CO2, I let the tank run with both Lily pipes at water surface for around 16h (I tried to reach the equilibrium as fast as I can). At the morning (before starting CO2) the tank pH was 7.45.
I'm using it as reference for CO2 injection.
The Jbl proflora works with ~0,10ph "error" for switching the valve on or off
I've set the "desired" pH level at 6,10 (1.3 drop from 7,45) but the valve will turn off at 6,00 and on at 6,20.
for now I don't have any timer, so the CO2 will be completely managed by the CO2 controller (I've alarm set when the pH varies for more that 0,2, so <6,00 and > 6,20).
do you think that this fluctuations are detrimental? I can push a ph 0,10 lower but if something happens, the pH will be on the risky side.
It didn't come with a probes but instead of buying jbl's probe I've bought bluelab's pH probe as I think it's a more reliable brand for ph measurement (considering that it's a brand made around pH control lol).
Before setting the CO2, I let the tank run with both Lily pipes at water surface for around 16h (I tried to reach the equilibrium as fast as I can). At the morning (before starting CO2) the tank pH was 7.45.
I'm using it as reference for CO2 injection.
The Jbl proflora works with ~0,10ph "error" for switching the valve on or off
I've set the "desired" pH level at 6,10 (1.3 drop from 7,45) but the valve will turn off at 6,00 and on at 6,20.
for now I don't have any timer, so the CO2 will be completely managed by the CO2 controller (I've alarm set when the pH varies for more that 0,2, so <6,00 and > 6,20).
do you think that this fluctuations are detrimental? I can push a ph 0,10 lower but if something happens, the pH will be on the risky side.
Two things.
First that is the way all CO2 controllers work. They keep the pH drop in a range. If they didn't the valve would be constantly turning on and off.
Second it is highly unlikely your degassed pH is 7.45. If so that would equate to about 4 dKH at equilibrium with the atmosphere.
Leave a sample out for two days then start testing it. And when you test it leave the probe in until the reading stabilizes. Then start testing it about every six or eight hours until the reading stablilizes.
For reference my fully degassed pH reading is 6.25, and that is very similar for lots of people I know who use straight RO.
First that is the way all CO2 controllers work. They keep the pH drop in a range. If they didn't the valve would be constantly turning on and off.
Second it is highly unlikely your degassed pH is 7.45. If so that would equate to about 4 dKH at equilibrium with the atmosphere.
Leave a sample out for two days then start testing it. And when you test it leave the probe in until the reading stabilizes. Then start testing it about every six or eight hours until the reading stablilizes.
For reference my fully degassed pH reading is 6.25, and that is very similar for lots of people I know who use straight RO.
Someone is all in 
- Thread starter
- #250
Already did, I calibrated it (with pH 7 and pH 4 from apera instruments) before using and double checked with a pH meter(from bluelab too).
You could be right, but in the last few weeks I already did few times.
The result were always the same (7.3 - 7.5 pH)
The only thing that I can do (if the pH reading is actually 7.4, I'll do a new test and report here in 3 days) is to buy a new KH test kit to double check.
Yep it hurts but at the same time its exciting trying new "toys" lolSomeone is all in
FrankZ
Well-known Member
This is probably a dumb question but do you happen to have a remineralizing cartridge on your RO? Some drinking water systems have them (two stages one for alkalinity and one for minerals) so the water is safe to drink and doesn’t taste terrible.
If it's just ro that's simply reverse osmosis. It's rodi that strips the water down.
What all filters do you have @riioKen ?
What all filters do you have @riioKen ?
- Thread starter
- #253
@FrankZ It's RO water without DI. It's the Arka Myaqua 1900, no DI resin. The water is around 15ppm
@Count Krunk
1 fine filter, 2 carbon filter, 1 ro membrane
The water enter in "Fine filter" first, then C1, RO membrane and then C2
FrankZ
Well-known Member
It sounds like it’s not a remineralizing cartridge causing your elevated pH then.
If you have an alkalinity test that goes is accurate enough down below 10 ppm you might find you have some left over in the water. Which would explain your higher than normal pH. OR do the math to figure out how large a sample you need to use to get the resolution down to less than 10 ppm. I can look up your kit and assets later tonight if needed.
- Thread starter
- #255
The sera KH test that I use is 1 drop = 1°dkh in a 5ml water(I'm not a chemist but should be 17ppm CaCO3?).
If I double the amount of water (10ml) it should measure 0.5dkh for a single drop, right?
When I test with that test kit, after the first drop (with my tap water become blue immediately) remains clear, then, the second drop is yellow, with tank water I never see a blue, directly transparent (drop 1) -> yellow (drop 2).
FrankZ
Well-known Member
Try 10 mls. That should get you 8.5 ppm per drop. You might need to go lower (larger sample) to get a better result. It does not take much alkalinity to raise the pH of RO water. There is no buffer there to prevent it.
Either way, a pH of 7.4 seems pretty high even for plain RO water.
- Thread starter
- #257
I'll test this method tomorrow, yesterday at 8pm took some water out. I'll wait 2 days then measure both kh and ph of that sample.
In the next few weeks a reactor should arrive, lastly i need a wavemaker or "circulation pump" that i will place behind the pipe that inject co2 (with the reactor, the flow will certainly be slower). I was looking into "Jebao" ones on Aliexpress, but i don't know if they are good enough, because are slim and support bluetooth/wifi.
Idk which one is better but i think that a nice wavemaker will spread nutrients and fish waste way better (i plan to use it at 2000 or 3000lph), and we all know it, flow is king right?
FrankZ
Well-known Member
I just noticed this. Typically you calibrate with 4 and 10 and use 7 as a check that way your calibration is linear across your measurement/control range. If you did 4 and 7, the reading as it closer to 7 and above can be off significantly. I am not familiar with your controller to know if you can calibrate with 4 and 10.
Just something to think about with your controller. Instrumentation is only as good as the calibration and maintenance allows it to be. I often tell my clients, automation does not decrease work load, it shifts the work to a different area. It’s the same with a pH controller for CO2, you don’t have to watch flow rate or mess with your needle valve as much, but now you have to clean and calibrate the probe properly to ensure it operates the way you want.
Ed Wiser
Active Member
Jeabo pumps are cheap. There is no support if you have a problem. So if you just want to try it out for now it’s ok
For long term use a Tunze pump is best. Some of mine are 30 years old. An still running like new.
For long term use a Tunze pump is best. Some of mine are 30 years old. An still running like new.
Jebao pumps are cheap and work amazingly well. They might have had some issues when they first launched, years ago, but they've figured that out. I've been running exclusively jebao since 2018 and i love them.
Tunze are great as well. You could just get 2-3 jebao for one tunze is my only problem with them. But yeah as said, they have been documented to last forever.
Tunze are great as well. You could just get 2-3 jebao for one tunze is my only problem with them. But yeah as said, they have been documented to last forever.
