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While I encourage members to support the planted aquarium companies that support our hobby and this site, I do want to share that Bulk Reef Supply has a freshwater section now. It's called BRS Fresh. If you don't know them, BRS disrupted the reef retail business. I wonder if they will be as successful in the freshwater side.
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928 views
I've been consuming tons of information from this amazing forum and decided its time to start my own journal.
One, to get constructive criticism/suggestions on how to improve which would be most welcome and two, just to show other approaches to starting a new tank as everyone thinks a bit differently and to see other peoples perspective.
I only started using pressurised CO2 about 18 months ago so haven't been in the hobby that long.
The first pic below was of said attempt starting with CO2. The other reason for showing that tank is I'm using the same physical tank and also starting off the new setup with plants from that tank.
Speaking of the tank, as you will see in the first pic of the new build it is an old second hand rimmed tank with less than stellar glass. In my list of planned upgrades one of them will be to order a low iron rimless tank so I can actually appreciate what's inside it. I can never get a photo to show a clear shot of the tank. Its not a great tank but it is definitely clearer than what the photos show. I think the camera really highlights how crappy the glass is lol.
No direct inspiration here apart from including a reasonable amount of hardscape and probably having a more nature style tank, so not so formal.
I've had a large piece of driftwood hanging around that I've wanted to use in a scape. I've used it previously in a larger tank but was a fish only tank. I do know after a year submerged (tied down) it still went straight to the top when released/untied so is basically unsinkable. Not sure of the type of wood though.
I also cut it in half depth wise as it was too large for a 4 foot tank.
After trying to glue it to rocks around it etc I filled the tank...and of course all went to hell. The driftwood wanted to get to the surface so bad it broke away from the glue LOL. So I had to start the scape with a large rock sitting on it and the driftwood in a different position from where it started. Temporary at first but now I plan to cover the rock with epiphytes etc so it should be ok eventually, just not so much right now. One of those it is what it is. I'm only playing around here anyways.
I'll also say, as per the heading of this journal, I'm treating this as an experimental tank, not even close to a show tank. I'll purchase a nice tank when I think I'm at a level where I deserve to bring it justice so not yet. Hopefully this tank will bring me a long way towards that point.
I've only previously used organic soil capped with sand (so the classic dirted tank). That provides good growth for around 6 months or so but if a lot of the organics start rising up and leaching into the water column, its not such a great setup for high tech tanks. Ask how I know!
I've never used aqua soil. I would like to try one day but for now decided to skip that and go straight to inert. Encouraged purely by some of you on here that have been using BDBS. That is what I would like to have used but not readily available in Aus so I'm using pool filter sand for this rendition.
Apologies for the rambling, onto the details.
Started around 5th January, did the full changeover from the old setup
Tank size:
Filter
Wave maker / power head
- Aqua One 8000 reef sim (apart from obviously to help circulation - was mainly put in here to help with the CO2 distribution - so is now situated at the opposite end of the tank to the filter outlet/inlet) Flow from 528 G/H to 2113 G/H. Have it on the lowest setting and probably still too strong
CO2
Water
- Tap (GH 7 KH 6), PH is around 7.6-7.8 out of the tank - at the moment
Substrate
- Pool filter sand only
Lighting
Initial plant list (as mentioned just selecting some from previous iteration of this tank)
I've deliberately not used what i call starter plants to kick it off as I find they can take over easily in a high tech tank, then you have to gradually rip them all out. I know a higher risk of more algae without them but lets go!
Ferts
Water change
- Currently around 55% weekly (I will be refining this a bit more too. I have a TDS meter now so will be working out exact water change volume using Rocco's TDS method which will also help with refining the fert dosing)
Current fish list
I plan to gradually increase the rainbow collection a bit too over time. Love the Boseman's
Other miscellaneous stuff
Upgrades planned
Ferts uptake and adjusting over time:
My initial aim is to try and avoid the infamous diatom stage by using a slightly reduced light schedule and ferts to start the tank.
First impressions for me is the driftwood is too large for this tank but it is a different piece so will persevere whilst in this tank.
Anyways the pic of the tank before I pulled it down;
Start of the new scape.
You can really see the crappy condition of the tank here with the scratches, water stains etc. I'm not too bothered though. It will make me more look forward when I eventually get a nice tank.
Just after filling up and initial planting. You can see the big heavy rock on the right. Without it, the driftwood shoots all over the place.
Noting that entire lot of MC melted soon after this, it wasn't in the best condition when it started though. Hoping it will eventually start up again. I'm patient, uhmm kind of!
One, to get constructive criticism/suggestions on how to improve which would be most welcome and two, just to show other approaches to starting a new tank as everyone thinks a bit differently and to see other peoples perspective.
I only started using pressurised CO2 about 18 months ago so haven't been in the hobby that long.
The first pic below was of said attempt starting with CO2. The other reason for showing that tank is I'm using the same physical tank and also starting off the new setup with plants from that tank.
Speaking of the tank, as you will see in the first pic of the new build it is an old second hand rimmed tank with less than stellar glass. In my list of planned upgrades one of them will be to order a low iron rimless tank so I can actually appreciate what's inside it. I can never get a photo to show a clear shot of the tank. Its not a great tank but it is definitely clearer than what the photos show. I think the camera really highlights how crappy the glass is lol.
No direct inspiration here apart from including a reasonable amount of hardscape and probably having a more nature style tank, so not so formal.
I've had a large piece of driftwood hanging around that I've wanted to use in a scape. I've used it previously in a larger tank but was a fish only tank. I do know after a year submerged (tied down) it still went straight to the top when released/untied so is basically unsinkable. Not sure of the type of wood though.
I also cut it in half depth wise as it was too large for a 4 foot tank.
After trying to glue it to rocks around it etc I filled the tank...and of course all went to hell. The driftwood wanted to get to the surface so bad it broke away from the glue LOL. So I had to start the scape with a large rock sitting on it and the driftwood in a different position from where it started. Temporary at first but now I plan to cover the rock with epiphytes etc so it should be ok eventually, just not so much right now. One of those it is what it is. I'm only playing around here anyways.
I'll also say, as per the heading of this journal, I'm treating this as an experimental tank, not even close to a show tank. I'll purchase a nice tank when I think I'm at a level where I deserve to bring it justice so not yet. Hopefully this tank will bring me a long way towards that point.
I've only previously used organic soil capped with sand (so the classic dirted tank). That provides good growth for around 6 months or so but if a lot of the organics start rising up and leaching into the water column, its not such a great setup for high tech tanks. Ask how I know!
I've never used aqua soil. I would like to try one day but for now decided to skip that and go straight to inert. Encouraged purely by some of you on here that have been using BDBS. That is what I would like to have used but not readily available in Aus so I'm using pool filter sand for this rendition.
Apologies for the rambling, onto the details.
Started around 5th January, did the full changeover from the old setup
Tank size:
- 122 cm x 47 cm deep x 45 cm high (uhmm so in imperial 48" x 18.5" x 17.5")
- Litres/gallons - 258 litres / 68 Gallons
Filter
- Just what I have on hand and had been using in the tank (Aqua One Nautilus 1100) so around 290 G/H so of course in reality a lot less than that. Only filled mainly with sponges though, limited the bio media.
- I have a perfectly working FX5 sitting in the shed gathering dust but I think too powerful for this size tank. That connected to a Yugang reactor though and one inch lily pipes could be a good combo. Will have to think about that for the future.
Wave maker / power head
- Aqua One 8000 reef sim (apart from obviously to help circulation - was mainly put in here to help with the CO2 distribution - so is now situated at the opposite end of the tank to the filter outlet/inlet) Flow from 528 G/H to 2113 G/H. Have it on the lowest setting and probably still too strong
CO2
- Aqualabs Pro dual stage regulator (recently added this, replacing a cheap chinese one from ebay - about 6 times the cost!)
- Aqualabs inline diffuser
- Gets to around 45 ppm but I need to do some more refined testing ( I only have the JBL CO2 kit but seems to be working ok)
- CO2 starts 3.5 hours before lights start and 4 hours before lights build up to their set level.
Water
- Tap (GH 7 KH 6), PH is around 7.6-7.8 out of the tank - at the moment
Substrate
- Pool filter sand only
Lighting
- Week Aqua L1200 (using Red preset at R - 64%, G - 71% B - 44% and UV - 90%) TBH not sure the UV light does much but it is what it is.
- So the lights aren't on that high, I started off the tank even lower but crept it up to what it is now.
Initial plant list (as mentioned just selecting some from previous iteration of this tank)
- MC as the front carpet
- Hygrophila corymbosa (restricted this quite a bit as it grows too fast with direct CO2 access) so hidden in the opposite corner to CO2 lol
- One amazon sword - I wanted to keep one in here to prove you don't need rich substrate
- Crypt wendtii brown - similar to above
- Ludwigia repens
- Helanthium bolivianum 'Quadricostatus (I think thats what it is or similar. produces runners like nothing on earth but a nice looking plant. Thats the one in the back right corner in the first photo of the new setup)
- AR Mini
- Hydrocotyle tripartite mini
- Limnophila Aromatica
I've deliberately not used what i call starter plants to kick it off as I find they can take over easily in a high tech tank, then you have to gradually rip them all out. I know a higher risk of more algae without them but lets go!
Ferts
- DIY Macros and micro mix - Rexolin APN (dosed for water tank volume)
- Started 9/2/20 now 10/2.5/20 (yes I know quite low for an inert substrate compared to most and will gradually increase this in time)
- Front load around 50% Macros, then the rest dosed throughout the week - only just started this method to try and limit the swings during the week
- Micros dose evenly throughout the week adding up to 0.45 fe / week
Water change
- Currently around 55% weekly (I will be refining this a bit more too. I have a TDS meter now so will be working out exact water change volume using Rocco's TDS method which will also help with refining the fert dosing)
Current fish list
- Around maybe 15 Rummy nose
- 4 SAE's
- Couple of oto's
- 4 Corys
- 6 Crimson spotted Rainbows ( i received these in a swap, plants for rainbows )
I plan to gradually increase the rainbow collection a bit too over time. Love the Boseman's
Other miscellaneous stuff
- Fluval SK400 surface skimmer (seemed like a little toy when I first set it up but does an ok job actually)
- Aqualabs pro skim lily pipes, and added quick release to the filter hosing to get to these easily. They are glass.
- Inkbird wifi heater control
Upgrades planned
- RO/DI - Just received but need a few more bits and pieces then I'll introduce the RO water over a 4 week period (25/50/75/100). I plan to remineralise to around 5dGH (4:1 for CA:MG), wont be adding any dKH, again following you guys lead here. I think this will be a huge upgrade as my tap water is sourced from a creek and is inconsistent. PH varies between 7 and 8 and KH has risen from 4 to 6 over the last few months.
- CO2 reactor - Looking at the Yugang of course. This will also I think make a big difference compared to inline diffusers. When setting up the tank I put in some work to try and determine the best flow to maximise CO2 distribution but still think I haven't got it right.
- New tank - as mentioned above
- Possible auto fert doser for the next tank
Ferts uptake and adjusting over time:
- The NO3 seems to provide a consistent 10 ppm before each water change which is the same amount I'm dosing now. Coincidence or is it only using what's readily available in the system. I know with slower growing plants and not a huge plant mass the uptake is obviously less.
- PO4 - similar story, test (which I'm not sure how accurate it is) seems to provide a consistent result of 2 ppm, again similar to what I have been dosing.
- I'll gradually increase both and see where I can find the sweet spot but may wait mainly till after the RO/DI is running.
My initial aim is to try and avoid the infamous diatom stage by using a slightly reduced light schedule and ferts to start the tank.
First impressions for me is the driftwood is too large for this tank but it is a different piece so will persevere whilst in this tank.
Anyways the pic of the tank before I pulled it down;
Start of the new scape.
You can really see the crappy condition of the tank here with the scratches, water stains etc. I'm not too bothered though. It will make me more look forward when I eventually get a nice tank.
Just after filling up and initial planting. You can see the big heavy rock on the right. Without it, the driftwood shoots all over the place.
Noting that entire lot of MC melted soon after this, it wasn't in the best condition when it started though. Hoping it will eventually start up again. I'm patient, uhmm kind of!
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1882 views
This is a quick guide for anyone wants to DIY a set of double stage co2 system.
The main components for this co2 system:
Rebranded ASA(victor SGT500) stainless steel double stage regulator, 40 psi max output
Peter Paul E52 series stainless steel solenoid, 4 watts
Swagelok M series metering valve, angle pattern with vernier handle.
DIY parts list:
1. CGA320 nipple and nut set(with washer), 1.5 inch nipple/stem, stainless steel.
2. Victor SGT500 stainless steel bar stock double stage regulator, 1/4 female npt ports.
3. 1/4 male npt to 1/8 male npt adapter, short form hex, stainless steel.
4. 1/8 female npt to 1/8 male npt, 45 degree elbow, stainless steel. Parker 2-2-SVE-SS, Brennan 5503-02-02-SS
5. Peter Paul E52 solenoid, wired conduit casing, stainless steel, 1/8 female npt inlet/outlet.
6. 1/8 male npt to 1/4 compression tube port elbow, Swagelok part number SS-400-2-2
7. Swagelok 1/4 OD port connector, part number SS-401-PC
8. Swagelok M series metering valve, part number SS-4MA-MH
9. Swagelok 1/4 OD tube stub to 1/8 male npt adapter, part number SS-4-TA-1-2
10. bubble counter.
--The grey teflon tape in video is high density type for stainless steel to stainless steel fitting/thread connections.
Questions, answers and discussion on how to build are all welcome.
happy aquascaping.
The main components for this co2 system:
Rebranded ASA(victor SGT500) stainless steel double stage regulator, 40 psi max output
Peter Paul E52 series stainless steel solenoid, 4 watts
Swagelok M series metering valve, angle pattern with vernier handle.
DIY parts list:
1. CGA320 nipple and nut set(with washer), 1.5 inch nipple/stem, stainless steel.
2. Victor SGT500 stainless steel bar stock double stage regulator, 1/4 female npt ports.
3. 1/4 male npt to 1/8 male npt adapter, short form hex, stainless steel.
4. 1/8 female npt to 1/8 male npt, 45 degree elbow, stainless steel. Parker 2-2-SVE-SS, Brennan 5503-02-02-SS
5. Peter Paul E52 solenoid, wired conduit casing, stainless steel, 1/8 female npt inlet/outlet.
6. 1/8 male npt to 1/4 compression tube port elbow, Swagelok part number SS-400-2-2
7. Swagelok 1/4 OD port connector, part number SS-401-PC
8. Swagelok M series metering valve, part number SS-4MA-MH
9. Swagelok 1/4 OD tube stub to 1/8 male npt adapter, part number SS-4-TA-1-2
10. bubble counter.
--The grey teflon tape in video is high density type for stainless steel to stainless steel fitting/thread connections.
Questions, answers and discussion on how to build are all welcome.
happy aquascaping.
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956 views
Added 4 red fire cherry shrimps recently and I saw them for few days but now haven’t seen them for more than a week. Should I assume they are dead? Have checked the skimmer and don’t see them.
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This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!
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45407 views
Journal 62G AIO Dirty Soil Lagoon
Well I’m done talking about it, it’s time to get this journal started.
I have been really out of it the last year or so in terms of maintaining my own tank, mainly out of frustration with time constraints and inconsistency with dosing etc. However, I have now acquired a dream tank, rimless and with low iron glass like I’ve always wanted. While I loved having a sump and prided myself on putting it together, I’m past that desire. The AIO allows the same benefits with hiding equipment, and overall easier maintenance without climbing in and out of cabinets. Now onto the details of this build.
Tank: Planet Aquariums Tideline 62 Gallon AIO Lagoon
Filtration: (2) 250gph pumps on either side of the tank with center overflow into socks (I’m going to punch holes in the socks for now and stuff with polyfill, reviews state the socks clog way too quickly and there is no replacement sock as the insert is not the common round style). The baffles will be stuffed with the poret foam I have already from my sump for extra mechanical/biological.
Substrate: The bottom layer will comprise of bagged pond soil/peat/earthworm castings/ STS. This will be a thin layer and will mainly act as filler to raise up the cap of APT Feast. This is similar to a substrate setup I did when I first started back up in 2020, And that tank did very well. While capping with sand and relying on the dirt to feed the stems worked well, it did require a little more effort on my end with dosing. I don’t trust myself to be as diligent as some members on here are with their inert subs, so I’m taking the mulligan and using aquasoil as a cap, hence, “dirty soil.” This will be another island style layout, and the surrounding substrate will be comprised of Caribsea Carolina Creek Sand.
Hardscape: River rock (local hardscape center sourced) and malaysian driftwood. I have recently acquired another large piece of wood and I’m sourcing new stone this week, as what I have just isn’t meshing with my current vision for the tank.
Plants: …. I have not solidified my vision of what this scape will look like just yet as I haven’t been able to setup the hardscape to outline the island. The plan is to use a good amount of colorful stems, epiphytes, and potentially moss.
Lighting: I will be ordering the Week Aqua Z400 this week and am excited to test it out.
That’s all for now, more pictures and details to come. I should hopefully have the hardscape setup by the end of this coming week after acquiring more stone and wood.
CO2: Almost forgot, for Co2 injection I have made a DIY Yugang with a locking food storage container. It will be stored in the cabinet and the hook will feed into the return pump chamber on the right. I initially was bummed that I had to sacrifice storage to fit a 5lb CO2 tank under the stand, which also meant getting rid of of the 20lb tank I’ve only been having to fill twice a year. @GreggZ Will appreciate this, my awesome father in law suggested that I hide the co2 tank in the pantry closet which is directly behind that wall and just drill a hole for the co2 line. Since my father in laws word is pure gold in my wife’s eyes, that suggestion was approved! He’s just as much my dad too so I appreciated him supporting the project
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1704 views
I’m looking for some help troubleshooting hair algae that’s absolutely destroying my Wallichii.
The Wallichii was planted as tissue cultures when I first rescaped the tank. The hair algae is heavily attached to the stems and manual removal hasn’t been very successful—it doesn’t want to let go of the plants.
My biggest concern right now is honestly the algae. I know my CO₂ isn’t where I want it to be, but the algae is getting bad enough that I’m worried it’s going to kill a huge portion of the Wallichii before I get everything dialed in.
Current setup:
UNS 20
Skylight Hyperspot at 100 percent
Photoperiod: 7:30 AM–3:15 PM
Apt 3 1 pump per gallon during weekly water change
CO₂ via inline atomizer
Parameters (5/30):
I’ve tried manually removing the algae, but it’s so attached to the Wallichii that I can’t really get it off without damaging the plants.
At this point I’m trying to figure out:
The Wallichii was planted as tissue cultures when I first rescaped the tank. The hair algae is heavily attached to the stems and manual removal hasn’t been very successful—it doesn’t want to let go of the plants.
My biggest concern right now is honestly the algae. I know my CO₂ isn’t where I want it to be, but the algae is getting bad enough that I’m worried it’s going to kill a huge portion of the Wallichii before I get everything dialed in.
Current setup:
UNS 20
Skylight Hyperspot at 100 percent
Photoperiod: 7:30 AM–3:15 PM
Apt 3 1 pump per gallon during weekly water change
CO₂ via inline atomizer
Parameters (5/30):
- pH: 6.6
- NH₃/NH₄: 0
- NO₂: 0
- NO₃: 20–30 ppm
- GH: 14
- KH: 4
- TDS: 323
- CO2: 65ppm midway through photo period
I’ve tried manually removing the algae, but it’s so attached to the Wallichii that I can’t really get it off without damaging the plants.
At this point I’m trying to figure out:
- Is this primarily a CO₂ stability issue?
- Is the Hyperspot too much light for this tank?
- Should I be aggressively trimming/removing affected stems?
- What would you do to stop the algae before it wipes out the Wallichii?
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Hello Welcome, Gino
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @Gino!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
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35 views
Hello Welcome, astrobooger
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @astrobooger!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
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33 views
Hey everyone, so today I luckily happened to glance at the silicone on my tank, which I bought used. Just to give you some context, this tank has been running in my house for about 3 years now and it’s definitely not in pristine condition, but I'm wondering if those dark spots are a serious cause for concern (maybe it's water getting in, or something else?). Since we're talking about a 55-gallon rimless tank, I'd really like to know how much of a risk I'm looking at here...
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Legacy View
Journal Low and Slow
Finally a journal.
I’ll soon be setting up two new tanks, a UNS 90p and a 50c. (Not so!) Patiently awaiting tanks and stands delivery.
They will both be middle energy tanks. I have lengthy periods of busy time and travel that mean the tanks need to survive without human intervention here and there. So plenty of automation is needed, and slow and steady wins over high energy. Or in BBQ smoking terms: low and slow.
Plans:
My last tank has had a rough year. Hurricane Helene meant two weeks with no electricity, and much longer without decent water changes.
Then last summer the tank developed a slow leak while I was out of town (ugh!). Had to fly home for a week to triage. Fish and plants have been in temporary tanks. Plants are struggling. Photo is when they had already been in temporary bin for over 6 weeks, I was surprised it didn’t look like an algae infested swamp.
Sooo ready for my new tanks! These are my first really nice tanks, I’ve only owned petco specials before.
For the new tanks I'm planning on over ordering plants since my surviving plants are clearly pretty weak at this point.
I’ll soon be setting up two new tanks, a UNS 90p and a 50c. (Not so!) Patiently awaiting tanks and stands delivery.
They will both be middle energy tanks. I have lengthy periods of busy time and travel that mean the tanks need to survive without human intervention here and there. So plenty of automation is needed, and slow and steady wins over high energy. Or in BBQ smoking terms: low and slow.
Plans:
- Injected CO2, but less than 30ppm
- Inert gravel
- Tidal HOB filter and partial UGF plate.
- Less than EI ferts, but more than PPS pro.
- Tap water (my tap is 50 TDS and only 10ppm Ca) remineralized to 30ppm Ca and 3-4 dKH.
- Lower light levels: Week aqua L on 90p and Chihiros wrgb 2 slim on 50c.
- Easy slow growing plants, and a few fish. Thinking the 50c will be a shrimp tank.
- Some hardscape but nothing crazy
My last tank has had a rough year. Hurricane Helene meant two weeks with no electricity, and much longer without decent water changes.
Then last summer the tank developed a slow leak while I was out of town (ugh!). Had to fly home for a week to triage. Fish and plants have been in temporary tanks. Plants are struggling. Photo is when they had already been in temporary bin for over 6 weeks, I was surprised it didn’t look like an algae infested swamp.
Sooo ready for my new tanks! These are my first really nice tanks, I’ve only owned petco specials before.
For the new tanks I'm planning on over ordering plants since my surviving plants are clearly pretty weak at this point.
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3400 views