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Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
Last reply · posted in Tank of the Month Forum
3172 Final Edit.webp

Introduction​

Hi my name is Hiep Hong (@Ultum_Hiep), I’ve been aquascaping for about 11 years and have been keeping aquariums for as long as I can remember. I am most known for my accolades within the competitive aquascaping scene from around 2016 until now. My most notable achievement would be my 2018 entry into the IAPLC which got me rank #4 which made me the first American aquascaper to ever break into the top 10. This year I have had the great opportunity to join UNS (Ultum Nature Systems) full-time as their Brand Representative and Content Marketing Associate. This Aquarium is a relic of my hoard of old tanks and is a discontinued Aquavas 65cm which I entered into the IAPLC for 2022.

Hiep's IAPLC 2018 #4
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System Profile​

1. Display tank: Aquavas 65cm
2. Glass or acrylic: Glass
3. Stand: Aquavas
4. Sump? None
5. Filter: Aquavas Stainless Steel Canister filter
6. CO2: Yes (UNS pro mini regulator and Paintball canister)
7. Water circulation: no idea
8. Lighting: UNS Titan 1
9. Dosing: ADA step 2 once weekly
10. Auto top off: none
11. Heating/cooling: Hydor inline heater
12. System contro: none

Water circulation and flow summary and objectives​

Nothing really, it is pretty straightforward as this design has plenty of open space for circulation, dead spots at the base of the stems are manually cleared out via hand waving during maintenance.

Water parameters​

1. Temp: 76-78F
2. PH: 6.8 ish
3. NO3 - Don’t test for it
4. PO4 - Don’t test for it
5. Fe - seachem iron every once in a blue moon for giggles, but I’m not super on top of it
6. Tap or RO/RODI - Tap water (come out around pH 7.2 TDS 160-180)
7. Do you remineralize? No

What do you dose your tank and how? Fertilizer objectives​

I dose lean and let the plants talk to me. It might sound pretty loose and that’s because it is. I’ve never been one to chase numbers or parameters, I have had my most success through careful observation and intuition, after so many years I just kind of know what it needs.

Substrate​

UNS Controsoil Extra fine Black

Aquascaping style objective?​

It started off as just an iwagumi with hairgrass but I had the opportunity to get some stem plants I liked so I added them to the tank just to keep them alive, eventually they remained permanent in the scape.

Lighting summary and objectives​

I used the UNS Titan1 because of its amazing color saturation abilities. It really makes the reds and greens pop with vibrance.

Filtration objectives​

Mostly biological (Seachem matrix) and filter floss for mechanical filtration to keep the water crystal clear. I also have a bag of chemipure green in the filter for chemical filtration as well.

Maintenance routine and export strategy​

1. Daily - feeding fish, manually waving detritus out of flow dead zones.
2. Weekly - water change if I am able to
3. Monthly - sometimes water changes only happen once a month
4. Quarterly - nothing outside of the above.

Tank inhabitants - fish​

Hyphessobrycon negodagua, hyphessobrycon sp. 'red cherry', moenkhausia dichroura, Brachychalcinus orbicularis

Tank inhabitants - inverts​

Amano Shrimp

Tank inhabitants - plants​

Eleocharis acicularis mini, eleocharis parvula, ludwigia inclinata, rotala blood red, rotala indica, callicostella prabaktiana, glossostigma elatinoides

How did you decide what to keep in your tank?​

Purely by being a regular at several LFS’s and buying up anything that fancies me

Any stocking regrets?​

None at all! I love all the fish in there, they are all quite rare and expensive, just the kind of fish I love haha.

What do you love most about this hobby?​

Two big ones, first and foremost is the peace it brings into my life. It is form of escapism and just sitting in front of the tank is my daily meditation and reflection time. The second thing I love about this hobby is the community and the people that it’s brought into my life. There is a certain camaraderie that comes with sharing this unique thing that’s enriched out lives.

Who was responsible for getting you into the hobby?​

My father, every since I was a toddler we always had some sort of fish in the household, I got into keeping monsterfish in high school and then shrimps and aquascaping in my later years.

Who or what in the hobby most influences/inspires you?​

I think ADG and the Senske brothers have influenced me the most. I spent my early days of aquascaping visiting their shop multiple times a week and through being around them, I picked up a lot of their personality and style in my work.

What’s your dream tank?​

UNS 150U. Not too big, not too small.

What was your biggest challenge with this tank and how did you get past it?​

APATHY. I let this tank go neglected countless times. My mental health was not too great when I first started this tank, it’s really true that your mental state is reflected in how your tank(s) look. Sometimes you need to just find that spark and get back into it, remember why it makes you happy. Progress and results are the greatest motivation, and you gotta remember to keep the momentum once you get the ball rolling. If things get bad and you let that deter you from fixing it, the tank becomes a downward spiral that’s typically hard to escape.

What is the most valuable piece of equipment for this tank?​

I would say the Hakkai stones are my most prized item in this layout. My set of Hakkai stones have been carefully collected and curated over several years, a few stones at a time.

Any future plans for this tank?​

I’m going to be tearing it down to make room for my UNS setups (several layouts coming soon).

Any special tips for success or advice you’d like to share with other hobbyists?​

Don’t be too reactive chasing numbers and parameters. Set the stage and then let nature do her thing. Be patient, don’t overthink, and let the plants tell you what they need.

Any closing thoughts or comments?​

Although this tank ranked horribly in the IAPLC 2022 ( I think I got somewhere around rank #1200), the scape itself meant a lot to me. I spent a couple years in a hiatus from the hobby because my work life was draining the passion out of me. When I quit my Pharmacy office job, I started aquascaping again and for some reason I was gravitated towards iwagumis for my first 5 or so scapes after I rejoined the hobby. I didn’t make that choice on purpose but upon some deep reflection I concluded that I subconsciously chose to do iwagumis during my comeback because of their simplicity and elegance. I realized that simplicity is what I needed in my life to counterbalance the chaos and complexity that was suffocating me in the outside world. This tank was never meant to be a contest tank, but I entered it for the sake of being present in the competition in the hopes of it reviving an ember that was going to burn out. It most certainly did.


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2 Replies · 3233 views
artandsoul
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
Sounds like a joke question but for reasons unknown I cant get moss to grow period, Got a huge baseball of moss for free from shrimp breeder. I put some in 5g shrimp tank, low light no heater around 74 its dead. 3 other tanks 76 degree low to medium light its all dead or looks dead its grey color I'd say it's dead. water parms are pretty spot on no big shifts or other plants would have issues imo.

what do I need to do to grow java moss 😂? grew it for years no issues would take over now im lost! I can grow anything but moss?
3 Replies · 83 views
Mr. Silly Goose
I Donated 2026
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion

Emergency  Drywall in aquarium

Had a tree fall on the house last night and there's a chunk of drywall that ended up in the tank. Currently triage has electrical service restoration above addressing the tank. I can't easily get it out because there's debris on the lid (and the whole kitchen). What are the thoughts? I can likely get it siphoned out in a couple hours (been about 5 hours since the tree fell). Unsure I'll be able to do a full water change as the water won't be heated. Generator and battery backups will be started after tree cleanup. The tank itself is on a 2kwh battery, so full run time is 12ish hours.

Trying not to freak out and hope the fish will be okay.

Thanks!
6 Replies · 76 views
S
Last reply · posted in Journals
Both tanks contain a lot of bucephalandra stems I have recently melted by feeding my caridina tanks with mulberry leaves. I have no idea what the heck happened but all buces melted in those tanks heavily over 3 days with every other plant + shrimp being fine. Don't wanna risk the plants dying so I'm throwing them back into high tech for a few months to recover.

Set Up:
Both tanks uses heavy co2 misting
Horticulture LED lights (dimmed, so probably 25-30 watts?)
Will steadily increase light weekly if I see no issues, max is 40 watts.
Dual sponge filters. (Air bubbles help prevent co2 gassing, also seems to really help stabilize tank, so less algae)
1 Internal filter with an atomizer for misting.

Regime:
All tanks get a 30-50% water change, twice per week.
Micros dosed daily (unless I forget, which happens fairly often.)
Macros Front Loaded and only in new incoming water.

6 Gallon bucket water change:
~350tds (Using seachem equilibrium remineralizer)
~22ppm KNO3, using KNO3 + KH2PO4
~40-50 ppm Potassium due to remineralizer
~4-5GH

Buce Lottery Colors
Lots of buces, various names, collected over the years. A lot of them were ultra rare and I cannot buy them anymore. Most of the ultra rare I probably accidentally killed from trying to grow them in a "no filter, no co2" style tank. Either way, not much color in low tech, will see what lottery colors we pull once they get going with better colors in higher lights + co2.

Both tanks are planted tightly front to back with bucephalandra. Kinda hard to see it all with moss blocking the way, but my view will be your view.

Random Mosses
Some mosses I've collected as well, honestly I grow a lot of them free floating so they kinda look the same. We will find out how they look after I attach them to something.

15 Gallon, very aged sand + pebble tank.
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20 Gallon long, aged aquasoil I pulled from an existing caridina tank.
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Wanted to take some macro shots, but does anyone know how to take an angle show on the glass without distortion? I have a DSLR long tube lens that works under water but color rendition is really bad.

Why so much moss?
Mostly to help stabilize the tank and to reduce light bleed. Less surface for algae to grow.
20 Replies · 1482 views
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NC AL
Last reply · posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
I have been inspired by everyone’s awesome planted fish bowls. I have been researching and toying around with the idea of setting one up. I was working on building a nano frag tank set up for my saltwater side and got the itch to try something. So I started building the pedestal for a fish bowl. Now down the rabbit hole, I am bending a piece of trim to wrap my 12” platform.

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1 Replies · 107 views
Gwad
· posted in Lounge
I completed my first AGA contest photos for the Dutch category today!

What a PITA!!! 😜 It took me a lot longer than I thought it would. Removing the tank equipment, cleaning the resulting mess, figuring out how to use a bunch of random cardboard to keep the light bleed off the camera...it was like a 4.5 hour affair for me in my cramped, sweaty office.

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The other challenge was keeping the water clear with the filters off. Every time I thought I was ready to shoot I'd find one more leaf or stray piece of root hanging out somewhere on the surface or stuck in the moss or something. It's a lot more noticeable when the water is stagnant.

I'm glad to be done. I'm about 75% happy with how my tank turned out. Had a couple issues with plant selections but I think I made it work OK for my first entry. I'm really excited to see everyone else's tanks (and to finally start seeing them discussed on the forums). Good luck everyone!
0 Replies · 23 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
Last reply · posted in Media of the Month Forum
The theme for this month's contest is: Algae Patina
patina.webp

This one is going to be tough but I hope some of you take up the challenge. There is a fine line between algae on an object that makes it look natural and old (patina) and algae on an object that simply makes it look unkept and dirty.

Who can strike that balance best??

Please take a picture of algae patina in your aquarium. Be as artistic and creative as you like.

The rules:
  • Submissions are allowed between September 11 and September 23.
  • Voting will start on September 23 at 12:01 am Eastern time.
  • Voting will end on September 30 at 11:30 pm Eastern time.
The prize:

A $25 store credit from BurrAqua thanks to @Burr740!

Good luck!
3 Replies · 236 views
JayP
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Journals
So I've had this UNS 30C going for just over a month now and I understand why they say bigger tanks are easier. This has been a bit of a struggle. It was just my 2nd aquarium and was intended to be something simple and easy to care for. Thought I'd finally create a journal for it and chronical it's journey from the little nano that tried to hopefully, a shrimp paradise.
UNS 30C DIY Cabinet.webp

Tank: UNS 30C with a DIY stand.
Light: ONF Flat Nano
Original Filter: Oase Filtosmart 100 Thermo
Current Filter: Oase Biocompact 25
CO2: Fzone regulator on a Paintball CO2 tank. In-tank diffuser.
Substrate: UNS Controsoil (Fine) and ADA La Plata sand
Hardscape: Lava rock and unknown driftwood (probably spiderwood)
Testing out a cheap stainless steel skimmer I purchased off AliExpress

Plants
Multiple types of Anubias and Bucephalandra
Mini Bolbitis
AR mini (just added)
Staurogyne Repens (just added)
Pogostemon Helferi "Downoi" (just added)

Fauna
Sunkist Orange Shrimp
Planned on Chili Rasbora but that didn't go so well, so this will be a dedicated shrimp tank.

The Nano Struggle.webp

The first mistake I made with this was to plant immediately, rather than do a dark start as I did with my first scape. As you can still see in the current photo, I had a lot of Buce melt as a result of the high initial ammonia. I was hoping I would see more of a rebound by now but it's been a struggle. I also had different stem plants in the background and they struggled as well, even though they were already submersed grown plants. The current background plants were just placed in the last week and I've loaded the substrate up with more root tabs. They should be more durable but I may want to add something that gets a little taller. I also plan to fill in the melted Buce and some other bare areas with some additional Buce and Anubias. I'm dealing with some algae on the wood and the Anubias Nana Pinto, but nothing too serious.

I hoped that this would be home to Sunkist Orange shrimp and Chili Rasboras. Even though it's only 7 gallons, from previous experience with the Rasboras, I thought of school of 8 to 10 would be fine. I started with 8, but within 2 days, 5 decided to leave the tank (even with a lid covering 3/4 of the top). General water parameters were good, but I admit, CO2 may have been a little high. I moved the remaining Chilis to my larger tank were they are now happy and content. Hopefully the shrimp will begin breeding soon and I'll have plenty of tiny creatures to watch.

UNS 30C Equipment Reset.webp

I generally don't like seeing equipment in the tank, so I started with a canister filter. Even adjusting valves to reduce flow, it was still too much and may even have been a contributing factor in the Chilis jumping out. Just this past weekend when replanting the background, I switched over to this tiny Oase Biocompact filter. It's only got a little course sponge wrapping a carbon sponge so the jury is still out on if it will provide enough filtration, but I imagine it will be fine with only plants and shrimp. I also added the in-tank heater (house can be a little cool in the winter) and switched from the inline CO2 diffuser to an in-tank diffuser. The skimmer is an experiment. I bought it on AliExpress to see how well it worked. My impression so far: Positive = I like the look and size, it seems to do a good job skimming, at least on this small tank. Negative = High pitched whine while running. I wouldn't run it all the time due to the sound, but if controlled to only run occasionally, it may work out well as long as it holds up.

I'll post updates as I add more plants and things mature.
23 Replies · 2592 views
HardeeParty
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
Since the tanks have been in such a state of disarray, I’ve been focusing on moving everything to emersed until life sorts itself out.

How I transition from submersed to emersed depends on the growth form of the plant.

Plants that are primarily basal form (not stems) go in square nursery pots with one of two substrates. First choice is long fiber sphagnum (dried and then rehydrated) topped with aquasoil, straight aquasoil, or a mix of peat moss/perlite/coco coir/aquasoil. The sphagnum wicks better than aquasoil. Alternatively, I use straight aquasoil, I line the bottom of the pots with a coffee filter to keep the substrate from falling through. Both work equally well. The bin needs to be filled with a little more water than if dried sphagnum is used which is why the first method is preferable.

The nursery pots are kept in a clear plastic container. Sterilite are the typical go-to, but I actually prefer the tall clear shoe boxes from Walmart. They have built in ventilation holes which is handy because I need to drill holes in the sides of any other container near the lid rim. Ventilation is key.

The shoe boxes are cheap too. I fill the bins as much as possible but a little leftover space is okay.

After filling the bins with pots, I fill all the voids with live sphagnum and fill with enough distilled water to saturate the sphagnum. The sphagnum has antimicrobial properties (so I’ve read, and it seems to check out in practice). This keeps the water from developing algae almost entirely. I dress the tops with live sphagnum too if something needs a little help rooting. Depending on the space, I throw rhizome plants right into the sphagnum as well. They develop excellent root systems and are very easily removed and cleaned when needed compared to conventional soil.

I fertilize everything with a foliar spray of Maxsea 16-16-16 diluted to 1 teaspoon per gallon. It’s a kelp based fertilizer with micronutrients. I highly recommend it.

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I’ll follow up with emersed stem plant propogation and other methods for the full greenhouse.
11 Replies · 736 views
Yugang
Supporting Expert in Residence Rockstar Article Contributor
Last reply · posted in Algae Discussions
Bladderwort is notoriously difficult to eradicate because even a tiny fragment can regenerate. It has the same requirements as plants, which makes it harder to selectively attack than algae.

A planted tank can be taken down, cleaned and restarted, but success seems not guaranteed due to the near impossibility of completely removing even the smallest bladderwort fragments.

Is this the final word, or are there any remedies with a reasonable success rate? Anyone could share experience?
15 Replies · 292 views
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Kwyet
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Plantopedia
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CO2 injected 1.4 pH drop (50 ppm per Hanna test)
Light 50-60 par at substrate
PPS-pro ferts for high tech tanks
50% water change weekly
8 dgH
0-1 dkH
7 Replies · 778 views
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