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JayP
Last reply · posted in Equipment Discussions
I often point out my love for double tap quick release valves. Chihiros currently has theirs on sale and since I was buying some other stuff I added a few to the cart. I thought they appeared to be smaller than the other brands I've used (UNS and Oase) based on the website images, and sure enough, they are. If you're in need, might be a good time to grab some. They also have the model that converts from 16/22 to 12/16. I made a big purchase so I had free shipping. Not sure if the price would still be great with shipping included.
Chihiros Double Tap Quick Connector

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1 replies · 23 views
R
Last reply · posted in Journals
Hi guys!

I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.

The starting point:

I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.

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I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.

Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.

I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
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I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.

These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
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That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
5 replies · 73 views
Art
Art
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion

THE official "what did you do to your tank(s) today" thread!​

Happy Will Ferrell GIF


Let's keep it real by sharing our daily routine. Post daily if you want. It's nice to check in with fellow aquatic gardeners.
325 replies · 17914 views
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Art
Art
Last reply · posted in Meet & Greet Forum
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @astrobooger!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
5 replies · 66 views
NC AL
Last reply · posted in Journals
NC AL’s Waterbox 20g AIO Planted Tank

Current view as of 5/26/26

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Tank: Waterbox 20 AIO
Return pump: AI Axis 40
Lighting: (2) AI Blade Fresh 12”
Dosing pump: Ecotech Marine
CO2 injected

The purpose of this tank is to maintain a healthy planted tank for at least 1 year. There is a stipulation that I must be able to do this using my tap water for water changes.
23 replies · 290 views
HardeeParty
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
Since the tanks have been in such a state of disarray, I’ve been focusing on moving everything to emersed until life sorts itself out.

How I transition from submersed to emersed depends on the growth form of the plant.

Plants that are primarily basal form (not stems) go in square nursery pots with one of two substrates. First choice is long fiber sphagnum (dried and then rehydrated) topped with aquasoil, straight aquasoil, or a mix of peat moss/perlite/coco coir/aquasoil. The sphagnum wicks better than aquasoil. Alternatively, I use straight aquasoil, I line the bottom of the pots with a coffee filter to keep the substrate from falling through. Both work equally well. The bin needs to be filled with a little more water than if dried sphagnum is used which is why the first method is preferable.

The nursery pots are kept in a clear plastic container. Sterilite are the typical go-to, but I actually prefer the tall clear shoe boxes from Walmart. They have built in ventilation holes which is handy because I need to drill holes in the sides of any other container near the lid rim. Ventilation is key.

The shoe boxes are cheap too. I fill the bins as much as possible but a little leftover space is okay.

After filling the bins with pots, I fill all the voids with live sphagnum and fill with enough distilled water to saturate the sphagnum. The sphagnum has antimicrobial properties (so I’ve read, and it seems to check out in practice). This keeps the water from developing algae almost entirely. I dress the tops with live sphagnum too if something needs a little help rooting. Depending on the space, I throw rhizome plants right into the sphagnum as well. They develop excellent root systems and are very easily removed and cleaned when needed compared to conventional soil.

I fertilize everything with a foliar spray of Maxsea 16-16-16 diluted to 1 teaspoon per gallon. It’s a kelp based fertilizer with micronutrients. I highly recommend it.

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I’ll follow up with emersed stem plant propogation and other methods for the full greenhouse.
7 replies · 106 views
Phish Tank
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
For US folks: I went to fill my 10 pound CO2 tank today, and my supplier told me there is a shortage, and he isn't getting his expected delivery of CO2. He said the other place in town that does fills is also running out. I had to call 3 places to find someone that could do a 10# exchange.

Not sure how widespread the shortage is, but if you are planning on getting a fill or exchange, I'd recommend calling first.

The news isn't all bad though. I paid a whopping 41$ for my last fill, and today's exchange was only 33$, so I guess thats a win.
3 replies · 56 views
Jarno
Last reply · posted in Journals
Hello everybody im new here and wanted to introduce my tank,

The tank is a 350 liter Juwel rio (120x50x60)
Pretty high tank but wanted to have 50 cm wide

Lights: 3 daytime onex (1x plant 2x colour)
Good for 180 par at the bottom, 1.5 hour build up/5 hours full and 1.5 hour build off

Co2 by Inline with a co2art series pro dual stage regulator dropping 1.4 in ph

Filtration: 2 external filters (1x crystal profi 900, 1x tetra ex 1500 on a spraybar) and a eheim skim 350

Substrate: mastersoil black powder with masterline root tabs

Fertilizer: apt e

Fish: cherry barbels, siamese algae eaters, kuhli, ottociclus and some bloody mary shrimps

Plants: rotala macandra, anubias tinto, reineckii mini, reineckki rosenarvig, rotala blood red, ludwigia repens super red, bacopa carolinia, lobelia cardinalis, crypto flamingo, crypto rosen maiden, staurogene repens, spiralus tiger, ludwigia inclinata meta, samolus parvifloris red.
Might have forgotten something

Currently battling algae and unhappy plants due to nutrient inbalances and a no3 tester that was not correct.

Under a pic of the current state and the state it was a little better in balance (not as it should tho)
51 replies · 3163 views
N
Last reply · posted in New to Planted Aquariums? Post Here
Is there a magic number of fert to give after a what change? Is it 3x the amount that I give during any day of the week?
Example: I give 1ml every day then after a 50% water change should I give 3x (so 3ml?)
15 replies · 332 views
Art
Art
Last reply · posted in Forum News/Feedback
This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!
1966 replies · 45798 views
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CincyScaper
Last reply · posted in Shrimp and Other Invertebrates
Added 4 red fire cherry shrimps recently and I saw them for few days but now haven’t seen them for more than a week. Should I assume they are dead? Have checked the skimmer and don’t see them.

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7 replies · 120 views
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